misnad

Great! Actually if the local Ferentino tyre factory made the right sized tyre, I'd have bought that instead (assuming they don't quote exorbitant prices). Sadly, I have no idea where they are Didn't realize Bridgestone was that pricey. Looks like it's Continental or Pirelli for me too then. By the way, if you have Alloygator rim protection just like I do, you'll need to ensure the place changing out your tyres doesn't mix them around wheels and the connector clip is aligned above the valve. They need to remove it when slotting in the new tyre. Got this info from the supplier.

I’ll be due for new tires in a little while as mine have shredded thanks to a horrible culvert at the top of my lane. I’ll most likely go with either Bridgestone, Continental or Pirelli (Toy#ta L#nka has a good discount) depending on what I can find these days matching the tire size. Staying away from Michelin as it’s super expensive and no way in hell am I going with the cheaper Eco tires. Thought of Dunlop, but I had a bad experience with those in my older car - poor traction and noisy! The first problem you’ll face is a scarcity of your preferred brand unfortunately.

I had just 2 days of sudden struggled cranking in the morning. No indicators at all apart from that. On the day I changed it, the car wouldn’t start at all and I had to switch off every light (Cabin, headlights, side markers) to get it working. That said, I had weird proximity sensor alerts and repeated Auto high beam check system messages coming up for a few days leading to this. They’re all gone now after the switch. Shall check that out, thanks!

So I had some trouble starting the car over the past 2 days where it would crank quite hard before switching on. It just wouldn’t start today with the headlights on auto (upon opening the door) so I had to get the battery swapped out. For some reason, the battery test still showed a decent charge of about 60%. Nothing was left on overnight either. Got it changed anyway since I didn’t want to risk a flat battery. Went to Keerthi’s at Battaramulla and switched up to an Amaron EFB. It’s interesting to note that the original Varta that came with the car was rated at a mere 450CCA whereas the one from Amaron is 600CCA.

More on the EFB batteries. They’re priced at 24,190/- and these guys give a discount + rebate on the old battery of 5690/-. That’s a total of 18,500/- for the new one. Pretty decent compared to the alternative non-EFB batteries from a few other brands.

It just states to refer to the owner’s manual. The manual says to use ACEA A5 0w30 or 5w30 if 0w20 isn’t available. And if using 0w20, to use Honda Genuine Oil Type 2.0. I opted for the Mobil1 0w20 oil as the Castrol Edge Pro 5w30 A5 was quite pricey and was just being wasted with hardly any burn every 5k km when the maintenance minder alert popped. Also, wanted to test this lower viscosity oil over a good 2 service intervals to see if there’s much burn at all given my standard commute and also how much of a realistic fuel economy it would provide.

So I took the plunge and switched to 0w-20 Mobil1 API SN oil at the 20k service mark. The older Castrol 5w-30 A5 oil was flushed out as part of the lubrication service. Shall let everyone know how this goes, but I’m sure it’ll do just fine given my standard 30km a day runs. I did this service at the agent and saved around 5k from the usual service with this swap, plus got a free wheel alignment done. Regarding service levels, I must say they’ve improved and have a supervisor now to speak a little more technical jargon with customers (this guy made sense compared to the other service advisors). The work was done well and I didn’t have any complaints upon collection, unlike all my previous attempts. I had a slight whine upon acceleration prior to the lube service that has now disappeared entirely. No idea what on earth it was. By the way, they did have Motul 0w-20 as well and that was like 8.5k for a 4L can. Due to the Covid-19 situ, they don’t clean the vehicle interior though and that’s a good thing. In other news, the low charge alert on idle-stop is back (came up a few days before the service) and it’s back to what it used to be. The battery load test says it holds a good recharge rate so I’ll run with it until I run into more battery related issues. I found a seller (K**rthi & Sons) of Amaron EFB batteries on FB and they’ve apparently replaced them for a few Civics already.

The idle-stop ceased engaging way before the lockdown, but a battery load test revealed it to retain good charge and discharge rates and the voltage was spot-on too. This was at Br*wn’s and they polished up the terminals as there was a slight white corrosion build-up. Had the same issue again right after and it only went away properly after replacing the brake pads yesterday. The car was run and moved around every 3 days during the lockdown too so that kept the battery going. As for the brakes, I noticed the rust build-up on rotors during the lockdown despite moving the car and engaging the brakes (I didn’t have much space to move the car though as there was a full-on police checkpoint right outside my gate). The familiar brake-music started about a week after lockdown ceased when I started driving more frequently, but was only on brake application. The weird grinding during coasting started up a few days back suddenly and it may have been a bad brake bind (rear brakes only though). Kept getting worse until it nearly gave me a headache! I thought of the Brembo, but wasn’t sure if it was genuine. The last thing I’d want is something to eat into my rotors due to its suitability for more aggressive braking requirements or perhaps uneven wear depending on authenticity. 78k was steep however I do recall paying roughly 22k for the rear pair of genuine brake liners on my old 2007 Axio before and that wasn’t at the company (was at Mr. Potato Estate‘s). In any case, tyres and brakes are two things I wouldn’t cheap out on especially after spending circa 7mn on a car. I dread the day I need to change the tyres though! I used to get the car serviced at the agent so I’ve no idea if they ever dusted the brakes. Although I do wash the car weekly and that area gets a good wash-through. The last time I washed it after the squealing noise, I got a whole load of brake dust draining out. I guess the rust accelerated its demise. Now that I think of it, I did use the Meguiar’s Ultimate All Wheel Cleaner that is supposed to dissolve brake dust and iron contaminants (the one that turns purple-red after spraying) intermittently (Every 2 to 3 weeks) with washes. I accidentally used to get some on the rotors and could notice rust build up pretty quick after that so I’m not sure if it had anything to do with the wastage. Mileage is at 22k km so far up to the brake change. On another note, the car seems to want to suck me dry this month. Just got the “service due” indicator flash up and also a warning to change the key-fob battery. For the service, if the air filter is due for replacement I’ll probably go with a K&N from M*t*rcade. I’ll most likely service the car at H*br*d H*b this time and get a full wash up done at Kl**nP*rk especially for the undercarriage (there’s a load of red sand that’s stuck everywhere after my road-trip to Jaffna in January despite frequent washes afterwards). By the way, anyone thought of wrapping their Civic with vinyl? Had this little itch to get a matte psychedelic color wrap ?. Any idea about pricing for full body wraps, it’s effect on paint, etc.?

I’m not sure about both refrigerants co-existing together however you can completely replace the r1234yf with r134a by the looks of it (assuming the manufacturer gives the green light). The issue is that both fluids operate at different pressures so having a mixture of the two in the same unit might be troublesome. The issue is whether the service stations here actually will empty out the previous refrigerant using their extractor machines or do a shoddy job at it and leave some of the old stuff in. On another note, I’ve discovered something weird with the Civic. So I had to replace all 4 brake pads at the company (didn’t want to risk cheaper or knock-off aftermarket calipers) at a spine-tingling 78k. There was a horrible grinding sound from the wheels even when coasting so got that done before my rotors wasted out. Now remember when I said I needed to replace my car battery as the indicator showed the idle stop system couldn’t activate due to low charge? Well, for some weird reason it seems to have disappeared now and keeps activating like it did before without fail! Now I’m not sure this might be because there is less braking force required to come to a complete stop now (with the new pads and all), but this is just mind-boggling to me right now. Anyway, it’s going to be fun switching off the darned idle stop each time I start up the car now. On the plus side, I don’t need a new battery! New normal, I guess ?

So I surprisingly received a call from S******d Motors regarding an online complaint I filed against them a month or so back. It was entered into the system against my vehicle number and I received an acknowledgement so here's hoping they take this into consideration. If they do the vehicular equivalent of "spitting on the fries" by adding some sugar into my engine oil at the next service in response, I'll be sure to let you all know as well Here's the excerpt (company name redacted): Customer Complaint Dear Sir/Madam, Thank you for your complaint which is received by us and has been recorded for monitoring the corrective action. We always value your feedback to help us improve our service delivery. ID: CMP10197 Date: 2020-05-18 Process: A/M After Sales Customer: Misnad Haque Category: Quality related complaints Failure: Customer has several complaints about Rathanapitiya Automobile Workshop. 1.Adding wrong lubricants. 2.Low quality paint job. 3.A/C repairing issue. Presented below is the original:- " My vehicle (Civic 2018 FK hatchback) was personally imported from the UK in 2018 direct from the factory through an intermediate handler. At the very first service I performed at S******d Motors Rattanapitiya, my car was fed 5W-30 semi synthetic oil (Mobil Super 2000), which goes against the ACEA standards and fully synthetic recommendation in the manual. Upon challenging them, I was told that fully synthetic oils lead to sludge formation even on new engines, which if I'm not mistaken is incorrect. I had to force them to use 5W-30 Fully Synthetic ACEA A5 Castrol Edge oil from the next service onwards. Secondly, I had to get my antifreeze topped up and they had used an off-branded one (Seiken) claiming that it was as good as the one recommended (Honda Antifreeze Type 2) and mixing the two was harmless. The manual states otherwise. What is even stranger is that being a dealer for genuine parts and the Honda service line, you do not even carry the genuine lubricants. Regardless, I eventually had to take the car back for bodywork repairs after a minor accident on the rear left passenger door. The body-shop in Rattanapitiya managed to repair this and paint it, however there were awful paint drip marks as well as over-spray all over the car, which I had to clean up at a different detailing center. Another service was done and the Rattanapitiya service center hadn't fitted the glove-box dampener properly and I had to return to get that done. This happened to me thrice so far. I eventually had issues with a foul odor from the AC system and the service advisor at Rattanapitiya simply said that nothing could be done about it apart from me having to use some charcoal overnight in the cabin area or run the blower on high with the heater engaged. They were extremely reluctant to inspect even the cabin filter or drain tubing. After a while, my AC system sprung a leak and I had to ge t the condenser replaced. As I was out of warranty, I had to pay a hefty sum to do this. However, they claimed to be out-of-stock on the condenser so I had to get it replaced elsewhere. The foul smell from the AC was back and upon getting it inspected at a different service center (Hybrid Hub), they had identified traces of rodent entry just by looking at the cabin filter. I took the car back to S******d Motors Rattanapitiya since I preferred having a dealer to clean up the evaporator and vent system. I was then informed that they did not have R1234yf refrigerant at all nor did they have a recovery machine for it in case they needed to recharge it if the evaporator was removed. To my surprise, they claimed that the same refrigerant could be mixed with R134a via adapters and they had done it for numerous other vehicles. Agreeing to all this and leaving it to their better judgment, I asked them to also swap out the cabin filter and clean up the whole AC system. They replaced the activ ated charcoal filter that was originally in place with a standard paper filter and I can now smell fumes from outside air coming even though the AC is on recirculation mode. What's even worse is that they claimed to clean the unit, however only used a blast of compressed air in the vents. Further, on inspection myself they had also closed the exterior vent flap without my permission and hence it was only stuck on recirculation without the ability to ventilate. I had to return back later in the day to get this fixed. The foul odor returned a day later and I had to take matters in my own hands so I had to purchase and use a foaming evaporator coil cleaner, which I used. It did reduce the odor significantly, however I still need to get the evaporator cleaned. In summary, I am utterly disappointed with the service and knowledge level of your staff as it seems they are unable to handle newer vehicle models. This is the first and last time I will ever purchase a Honda in Sri Lanka and it is all because of your incompetence. Thank you. "

Cats hate citrus stuff, so probably boil several orange peels in water (thick concentration), add some lime juice (no sugar obviously) and a little detergent into a spray bottle. Spray around your vehicle often and you'll keep them at bay. I had a kalawadda and some stray cats sitting on the top of my car before, but they don't come by nowadays. Hope this helps you.

Hey all. So it’s been a week since the DIY evaporator clean-up and touch wood, I didn’t get the foul odor resurfacing although faint remnants came through for about 2 days on start-up. Here’s hoping I’ve managed to get all the muck out and won’t see any more problems now that the blower vent is messed up. Might take the second can I bought and get it injected through the drain tube so it gets to the evaporator coil directly just to be doubly sure. I checked up on how Toyota Lanka services their vehicle AC systems and they use a proprietary foam cleaner using the same method I tried plus via the drain tube. Seems sensible as it actually worked. How’s everyone doing through the curfew period?

Thanks! Got it from a place called Lexus Lanka. You’ll have to go to their head office. Yes, it is an evaporator coil cleanup without opening up the dash. You could either go this route via the blower or even better would be via the drain tube under the car for foam injection. Didn’t have jack equipment so did it this way.

Smell was back as the compressed air flush of the vents wasn’t sufficient (thank you Sta**ord! ?). Got a can of BG Frigi Clean evaporator foam cleaner and did it myself by passing the tubing through the blower motor assembly. Total time taken: 30min. The AC is now draining perfectly as I can see a steady stream of water (initially some brown stuff) coming out of the drain tube under the car. Here’s a guide so anyone reading can do the same without spending big money at idiots’ garages. 1) Remove the glove-box by following instructions in the owner’s manual (carefully unhook the dampener) 2) Open the cabin filter cover making note of the airflow direction indicator (downwards). You need to press on the two side clamps to release it 3) Pull out the filter from the slot to expose the blower motor assembly below 4) Shake the can of FrigiClean and attach the tubing to its nozzle 5) Cut off the other end of the tubing if it has a screw adapter nozzle as it won’t fit through the blower motor 6) Pass the tubing through the blower motor (important to get the tubing past the fin otherwise you’ll damage the motor) 7) Spray the can until empty and foam will fill through the assembly all the way into the evaporator. If you see or feel foam backing up into the motor fins, stop immediately and withdraw the tubing 8 ) Replace the cabin filter cover only (without the filter) and start the engine 9) Switch AC blower on Full and temp Lo with standard ventilation (face). recirculate mode off. 10) Watch the stuff coming out out of the drain tube under the car and leave it running for 10min 11) Switch off the car and replace the cabin filter into position while closing the lid (cabin filter airflow direction has to be downwards). 12) Re-fit the glovebox but first get the dampener hook attached (it’s very hard to do this after you’ve got it into the hinges) 13) Leave the car unused and unoccupied for 30min and you’re good to go!

Managed to get the whole thing cleaned out with a blast of air through tubing into the evaporator core. Blower area was cleaned out today too and swapped the cabin filter. Did this at the dealer though since the other place wasn’t too sure about the dashboard elements that needed removing and they didn’t want to accept the job without a stock of r1234yf. Turns out the dashboard didn’t need to be removed as the evaporator didn’t contain any gunk so it may have been a visit, defecate and run expedition the rats were up to. Guess they needed to use the loo in a cold place. Cabin filter cost me 12k and they added more mesh around 2 other ventilation spots that the other place didn’t inspect. Total bill was 18k and I don’t get the stench for now plus I’m protected from the critters. Extremely lucky that they didn’t bite into anything apart from a bit of plastic under the hood. Oh by the way, the dealer told me today that they don’t use r1234yf even though they quote about 80k for a recharge since they don’t have it nor do they have a machine to exchange it. Was told that they just add r134a and that it was ok to mix the two as they have done it before. Good thing I did my condenser at the other AC place ?. On another note, I think I’m going to write a book titled, “The chronicles of a Civic: the dealer, the aircon and the rat”!

So it was the rodents causing the stinky smell. There was rat poop and pee on the cabin filter. Only way out now is to clean the evaporator and that means removing a part of the dashboard. They’re going to add a mesh to prevent future incursions for now. Unfortunately Hybrid Hub don’t have 1234yf gas right now to recharge afterwards so they’ll get back to me as to when it can be done. I hate rats.

Ok guys, the darned stinky socks smell is back and I'm sure something's lodged in the vents. It just comes up as I start the AC and disappears within seconds. The cabin filters seem clean, however I'm going to get them changed after an inspection. As my usual AC service shop was clueless about this, I'm taking it to Hy**id H*b at Piliyandala (yes, they do AC servicing on non-hybrids too) on Tuesday and I called them in advance. Seemed to be more knowledgeable over the phone than the dealer. I've got no idea what is causing this stench given its recurrence. Hope it isn't a rat or some other critter lodged up there.. yuck! My car feels violated.

Yup, it was with 1234yf. Condenser alone cost me 45k. The rest was gas and service.

Ah just got it back and it’s really good to see the car back to normal. So no more smelly mold either. They’ve done a comprehensive job and serviced the entire AC system too. Got this done at a place called Sakura Auto A/C and they’re right down the end of Anderson Road. They have another branch on Hospital Road near the Budhdhagosha bus stand. Total bill was 68k. Here’s hoping this unit lasts longer than the previous one!

As if the mold wasn’t enough, my condenser gave way today in the midst of scorching heat! Took it to my usual A/C shop and they showed me the leaky condenser. So here’s to replacing it now with a new one. Estimated cost is 70k with the R1234yf gas. Sitting here waiting for the job to complete.

Same here.. first time I’ve encountered it. According to Scotty, you’ve got to be cautious when washing the wiper area with a high pressure water jet as it can enter the AC intake and drop into the evaporator filter. If you’ve got bird poop or some other organic muck inside (I noticed a glob right there), it can form the ideal home for mold. It’s quite common in the US under tropical weather however I’ve never had this issue here before. The second one is using a moist carpet close to the cabin filter (passenger side). This happened a few days after a car wash.. ample time for mold to form.

I guess I just wanted to annoy myself. Sigh! In the car now... moldy smell is nearly gone.. should try one more canister to blast off the residue.. die mold die!!!

UPDATE: I regret going to the agent today. The first thing they said before I could complete my sentence was that the condenser must be faulty and it is a known issue for this model plus they didn’t have the parts. After repeating myself slowwwwwlyyy (and with a relatively strained yet calm demeanor), they agreed to have a look to find the source of the smell. Inspection was a quick sniff at the vents and immediate suggestions since they believed it wasn’t worth to remove the dashboard, etc. to clear out the evaporator nor was it worthwhile to run an AC service... just for a foul smell: 1) Place some charcoal on a mat overnight inside the car to absorb the odor 2) Run the car for a while using the blower only before switching off at night so it can dry out When asked about disinfectant sprays at the vents and intake, they said those are useless as they’re merely perfumes ?. So... I visited a LiquiMoly seller at Delkanda to buy myself a disinfectant spray (Klima Fresh). Got it for about 1.5k. Just tried it out and its mode of action is a liquid spray that gets absorbed through the cabin filter intake into the evaporator unit while the blower runs. No disassembly required. And it certainly isn’t just a “perfume”. Going back to the car park in a while to check on how it performed. If it hasn’t eliminated the mold, the next approach is to use a foaming disinfectant at the AC inlets as well as a liquid spray pushed through tubing directly into the evaporator through vents. Failing that, I’ll take it to an AC repair outlet. What a smelly situation to be in ?

Ok so I've got a god-awful moldy smell emanating from my A/C system. It smells like old wet socks ?. I'm guessing it has to be some horrible mildew that's grown in the AC evaporator filter system. I recall a bit of weird sticky gunk that somewhat disappeared near the drain ways near the wipers when I washed the car. Taking it for an A/C cleanup tomorrow and god knows what I'll find. Probably ask the technician to take a few pics of the dirty filter too . Thought of buying a can of Liquimoly A/C spray cleaner and cleaning spray (the one you set off near the cabin filter with windows closed for 5min), but it may not work if there's that ugly gunk stuck inside. On a second note, anyone tried using K&N air filters instead of stock? Heard good things about them, but there are some reviews that say it's best to stick with stock due to poorer filtering capability of K&N's. Any clue?

Nope. It’s a combination of multiple factors as opposed to just distance / days gone by.