misnad
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Everything posted by misnad
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No worries buddy! It looks like there are different implementations of maintenance minder: some give a %, another set in km and others seem to have days remaining. The internal logic should be the same though so I’d get the service done just as it gets closer to the 0 days mark. In mine, it simply gave a km remaining and either said “Service due soon” (which was when I made an appointment) and finally went on to “Service due now”.
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You’re right. Actually, I got it repaired at the agent’s body shop for 700/-. All it took was to remove the left corner of the bumper and fit it back. No realignment, etc. was done though. Here’s hoping the radar still functions properly! The issue was that the lip kept scraping on every single bump I rode over so it had to be fixed back. Had it been insurance, I’m sure they’d have asked to replace the whole part and I’d have lost my entire no claim bonus unnecessarily.
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Stick with fully synthetic as it is mentioned in the user manual. Well, if it makes you feel better, I got the service reminder within the 5000km interval even when using Castrol Fully Synthetic A5, which cost quite a bit. That’s purely because of the number of engine stop/start cycles in heavy traffic. So depending on that, your service intervals could vary.
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Shall check what the manual says however I recall seeing a mention of non-silicate coolant. Anyways, I dunno if I’m just so “lucky” with the agent as I found out today that they hadn’t refitted the glove compartment properly after the service. Went back there to make sure I informed them of their substandard post service checks. It was a small thing, but seriously these are the stuff that differentiates carelessness and attentiveness. For an agent, I’d expect the latter. Also got my bumper lower lip fixed at the body shop for like 700/- while I waited. The service center said they checked it and it would cost a lot so they recommended I claimed insurance for it. The reason for the high cost: broken clips!?! I know those things cost peanuts and the body shop guys got it done in under 30min. Sigh!
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Here’s what they use. Good thing is that it is a 50% Ethylene Glycol mixture, which is what the manufacturer’s coolant uses. However, I can’t find this Bear Brand (Seiken) coolant’s Safety Data Sheet online to ascertain its constituents. The Honda Type 2 Data Sheet states the following: 1) Ethylene Glycol 47-53% 2) Diethylene Glycol <3% 3) Potassium Hydroxide <3% 4) Hydrated inorganic acid, organic acid salts <5% 5) Bittering agent >30mg/kg (Added so you don't eat it)
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It was just something that had an actual bear (animal) picture and labeled “Bear brand”.
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Well, we aren’t clear about the chemical composition of the fluids being used. I’ve personally had a previous car’s radiator choke with rust after one of the mechanics used a totally different type of coolant than was recommended. So while we can’t really control the quality of fuel or dust, at least there’s an option of maintaining the right coolant being used or even motor oil.
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Yup I heard Maradana seems to be better. I think I’ll take it there next time instead of Raththanapitiya.
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It wasn’t bouncy.. but could feel every nook and cranny on the road. 32psi keeps it nice and smooth
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So I thought I’d give my 13k km service update here. Despite my whining, I still went back to the agent at Raththanapitiya. Stuck with the trusty Castrol A5 5W-30. This time though, the service advisor was like, “using 10W-50 is good enough for the new Civic”. I’m lost for words on this one. Even my old Axio 2007 ran on Toyota 10W-30. By the way, there’s hardly a difference in service intervals between the older 5W-30 semi-synthetic and Castrol A5 and that’s most likely due to the heavy running conditions in Colombo traffic. Engine stop/start cycles seem to be a major contributor. Further, I asked them to re-fit the bumper lower lip and add new clips if required since one side was a little displaced (yes, I managed to scrape the bottom on a kerb), but got the response that if they do that, the radar will probably have to be realigned, etc. Then again, they replaced the entire air spoiler under the lower lip once before without any issues, so he said he’ll get it done. That wasn’t even touched. I’ll take it to the body shop to get it refit next. Now for the best part. I was told by them to only use the Honda Blue coolant (Type 2) for top-up, which is exactly what’s specified in the owner’s manual as well. However when I purchased a 500ml top-up bottle, I just found out what they provided. It was some Japanese Bear Brand Blue coolant being sold instead. Here’s hoping I don’t run into any issues with the radiator now. Oh and these guys don’t know what the recommended tyre pressure is. They’ve gone with 29 for all the tires when it’s supposed to be 32psi. Noticed the roughness as soon as I started driving back and got that filled up. Totally love the car, but really despise the agents now. I think I’ll buy a good scan tool myself and take the car to a different service station going forward. Sigh!
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Oil dilution is to be expected if you're running short distances and a lot of quick stop-starts. Just that it has been worse in the 1.5T's of the CR-V and Civic 10th gen. It hasn't been reported as an issue with the 1.0T yet though. As for turbo trouble, there's an art to drive a turbocharged engine. Just because one exists, doesn't mean stomping the accelerator without considering the operating rpm is a good idea. Never ever attempt to "launch" a car like this especially given its tiny 3-cyl engine as it isn't built for that purpose. Remember, on the 1.0L, the turbo is there to just give you sufficient bursts of power when needed (despite there being a little turbo lag), which would otherwise cause your car to struggle given its weight. It isn't surprising that the turbo may have blown if used too aggressively. To add to it, that's why you need to follow the maintenance minder to the dot, use proper fully synthetic oil that is recommended for your engine (as per the owner's manual) and keep your vehicle serviced regularly. Any one of those go out of balance and you could end up with trouble at some point in time. That said, at times I do get a weird gasoline smell when I switch off a car after a drive. It isn't consistent though and I only get the smell outside the cabin. No idea what that's all about, but I'll check my oil level tomorrow morning.
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Should be around 2500/- per liter bottle
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Yup, they must've found Mobil Super 2000 works best for them in terms of profit margins and might definitely have a large stock of it. That's the standard oil they use for all the vehicles that come in for servicing apart from Havoline. Quite annoyed with Stafford especially since they don't even provide a detailed bill with the exact product used or even the constituents of what is termed as "lubricant service". Coming from my previous car being maintained at Toyota Lanka, this is substandard for an agent of a major vehicle brand. Toyota Lanka was super-detailed in what they used and did to the vehicle. Any places you recommend for a proper service on the Civic other than Stafford?
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Yup, same here however it’s hardly noticeable for me compared to my previous Axio 141’s CVT. That thing had a major stutter compared to this.
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Umm so Honda just announced its planned closure of the Swindon, UK plant that manufactures all Civic hatchbacks.
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So I just completed my second oil change at the agent (Boralesgamuwa) and got them to use Castrol Edge Pro A5 5W-30 instead of their regular semi synthetic 5W-30. Cost me approximately 15k for the oil alone. The owner’s manual should dictate what type of oil you should use. In mine, it indicates either 5W-30 or 0W-30 ACEA A5 or A3 oil. For 0W-20, it states that only Honda Engine Oil Type 2.0 should be used so I didn’t adventure down that path since the agent didn’t have it anyways. For everyone else tuned in and following my lovely experiences with the agents, I had a good 10min conversation with the service advisor about the type of oil they use in the newer Civics. He went on to state that: 1) Honda UK don’t know about SL climates and service intervals, so you have to change your oil every 5k km here or before if the maintenance minder indicates it regardless of the type of oil 2) In their history, they’ve always used semi-synthetic oil and it has never caused any problems - he claimed 3) It’s only when customers ask for fully synthetic that they have problems especially sludge build-up, however that is the customer’s wish I found points 2 and 3 a bit naive especially since you need better quality oil and not Dino oil for higher performance engines where oil pressures are significantly higher than before. Semi-synthetic may have worked with the older cars that weren’t turbo-boosted. These newer ones have a tiny 3-cylinder engine with a turbo and temperatures are definitely way hotter than the previous generations. Secondly, with regards to sludge, that will happen when you switch to synthetic in a car with a few 10’s of thousands of km’s running on conventional or semi-synthetic. That’s because fully synthetic oil cleans up better and is a detergent oil so all that sludge that was collected in between piston rings, cylinder heads, etc. will start to come loose and result in sludge. Got this info off Scotty Kilmer and he is in line with debunking the myth a lot of mechanics spread: “fully synthetic oil causes sludge”. By the way, I also asked them about a particular part on my car that I’d need replacing and they admitted that they don’t bring down many parts for the UK model Civic to SL regularly so they’d have to back-order. That’s contrary to what their sales rep said prior to purchasing the car though. All in all, I’m just going to follow the maintenance minder for services as it has proven itself smart enough for now. And of course, will continue with fully synthetic 5w-30.
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This is gold! LMAO
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Didn’t service it yet as I’ve got like another 1000km to go despite the “Service due soon” reminder popping up, which will be covered in like 3 weeks. I’ll be going for it next weekend though. Shall keep you posted.
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So I tried to book a service appointment using my own oil and the service advisor asked me to first check with their reception and sales if they have the same oil as they normally don’t take parts or stuff brought by the customer. Sigh.
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Rattanapitiya body shop. On the lines of engine oil, I called them up to book a service appointment (10,000km interval) and checked on the oil they use. The advisor said that it’s up to the customer if they want 10k km services or 5k km services. If it is 5k, they use 5w-30 semi synthetic, however they use fully synthetic for 10k intervals. When I asked them which brand they use since they used Mobil last time (that was recommended), they’re now saying that they recommend Castrol 5W-30 as Mobil only comes in 0W-30 fully synthetic and that apparently burns up easily due to it being 0W. That’s a load of tosh as Mobil 5W-30 fully synthetic is available here and I also don’t think the 0W-30 oil would “burn off” faster than a 5W-30. Besides, these are high HTHS oils anyways given their A5/B5 and A1/B1 ratings. Looks like I’ll be taking my own engine oil going forward.
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Yup.. tried it and then rolled up, rolled down, pushed against it, but still no luck in identifying the source. I guess it’s some beading expanding under heat and the noise seems to be getting in due to a broken corner garnish lid (plastic triangular piece at the top edge of the shutter); compliments of the boys at St****rd for that.
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Has anyone here experienced a weird "ticking" or "tapping" sound from any of the shutters under normal operation specially when idling? It's like someone is tapping on the glass with fingernails and occurs with regular intervals like a clock. Disappears from time to time, but what I've noticed is that it keeps coming up in the daytime when driving under harsh sunlight. It goes away when the temp is cooler outside or at night. Mine is present at the driver-side window and still couldn't identify where exactly it comes from. Tried lowering the shutter and it's still there. Tried holding the glass tight and no joy. Beading seems ok. Just that there's a crack in the top corner window garnish cover (small plastic triangle) thanks to Stafford, but it doesn't seem to come from there. Drives me insane as it is quite constant.
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Guess so, but the Mobil Super 2000 oil in my motor doesn’t seem to be compliant with any ACEA standards, be it A or C series checks. Moreover, it’s a semi-synthetic. Found a Valvoline, Motul and Castrol MAGNATEC that complies with the A5/B5 or A3/B3 specs as per my owner’s manual. Mobil products here don’t seem to have the A5/B5 rating unfortunately though they do have A1/B1, which is quite close. There’s another guy who apparently has a C2 requirement so I guess he’ll need to settle for the C3 oil from Mobil Super 3000.
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Of course they don’t make their own oil and that’s obvious. The question at hand is the type of oil to be used here as my car has been filled up with Mobil 2000 5W-30 synthetic blend. The newer Civics built after 2018 have a requirement for ACEA C2 oil specified on the oil lid as they seem to come with a gasoline particulate filter whereas ones before that (2017) don’t require it.
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So I just checked up on the oil St****rd used for my Civic at my last service interval (5000km) and it was an older Mobil Super 2000 5W-30 synthetic blend. Since I've driven the car for a while now and am about 2500km away from my next scheduled service (as per maintenance minder), I can still feel that my car's economy is a bit off and hasn't improved much (previously 14L/100km to roughly 13L/100km daily Colombo driving). Further, I also feel something is off w.r.t the ease at which it accelerates to speed compared to before the oil change. Looked at the owner's manual and it says to use either Honda Engine Oil Type 2.0 (I'm sure St****rd doesn't have that unlike Toyota Lanka having their genuine oil) or 5W-30. Checked up on the Mobil1 UK site using the vehicle selector and it looks like the 1L model needs either Mobil1 Fuel Economy 0W-30 (Fully Synthetic) or Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-30 (Fully Synthetic). From what I know, the synthetic blend oils are more of a gimmick as they just comprise of between 10% to 30% synthetic elements mixed into conventional oil. Given that this is a turbocharged unit and that too, a little 3 cylinder engine, I'm sure it will run a little hotter than the usual 4 cylinder version. Shall talk to the service advisor next time prior to maintenance and see if it makes sense to switch to the recommended engine oils. Anyone else in here with an idea as to what would be preferred or am I just being pedantic?
