GearHead

X5 M and X6 M take 4WD performance to a new level with the most powerful engine in BMW’s stable. Meet the world’s fastest four-wheel-drives. BMW’s renowned M division has finally succumbed to nine years of temptation by creating its first high-performance versions of the company’s luxury off-roaders. The new X5 M and X6 M have been revealed ahead of their public debuts at this month’s New York motor show, though the models haven’t been a well-kept secret. BMW Australia, though, says for now it will only import the X6 M – expected in November – declaring the coupe-style 4WD as a better fit for Australia. “These models are not about taking the kids to school,” says company spokesman Toni Andreevski. “And these kind of [enthusiast] customers lean towards the X6. “We’re not ruling out the X5 M for the future, but for now the sporting nature of the X6 is better suited to what Australians demand.” Both the X5 M and X6 M are propelled by the same twin-turbocharged 4.4-litre V8 with 408kW of power and 680Nm of torque – the most powerful BMW production engine currently available. That’s enough poke for the 4WDs to sprint from 0-100km/h in a claimed 4.7 seconds – a tenth quicker than the current segment benchmark for acceleration, the 404kW twin-turbo V8 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S. The X5 M and X6 M will also reach an identical top speed of 250km/h, stretching to 275km/h with the optional M Driver’s package. Fuel consumption of 13.9 litres per 100km is inevitably the highest in the respective X5 and X6 ranges, though is still respectable considering their performance niche and power. All 408kW – up 36 per cent and 56 per cent respectively for the current most powerful versions of the X5 and X6 – are sent to all four wheels on each car by an M Sports six-speed automatic transmission. The auto includes a launch control function, while a Power mode offers Sport or Efficiency settings for the engine and gearbox for either keen driving or keen [fuel] saving. X5 M and X6 M X5 M and X6 M Both models feature BMW’s xDrive four-wheel-drive system with Dynamic Performance Control – a rear differential that varies torque between the rear wheels for improved cornering stability. The clever diff was first introduced on the regular X6 that debuted last year. Drivers can also raise the threshold the stability control system by activating the M Dynamic Mode. This also gives both 4WDs more rear-drive bias. The X5 M and X6 M feature M-developed air suspension with self-levelling rear suspension maintaining a consistent ride height even with rear passengers or heavy cargo. Visually, the M versions of the X5 and X6 are differentiated by huge front air intakes, intake gills behind the front wheels, and the quad exhaust pipes that are a signature on BMW's range-topping performance models. Electronically adjustable dampers are also standard, as are 20-inch alloy wheels, bi-xenon headlights, electrically adjustable front seats, dual-zone air-conditioning, daytime running lights, new-generation iDrive, and (on X6 M only) an automatic electronic tailgate. Pricing will sit somewhere between the $167,500 Mercedes-Benz ML63 AMG and $277,800 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S. http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...ArticleID=62054

porsche factory built rally machine...dont think we would see this is SL rally racing though...

great video..thanks for sharing...

hehe thats true.I was reading another forum the other day and came across the following i "I used to work in a Ferrari dealership and saw many Ferrari vehicles dissasembled int his fashion. If the car requires anything more than an oil change then its just easier to remove the entire rear bodywork/subframe in one unit and work on it off the car. The dealership had this really cool dolly/workstation where the techs could work on the transmission and engine at ground level." http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthrea...1410&page=2

this would damage the gear box machan

no worries machan. I have no idea machan. Came across these pics in another forum. Read the whole thread, but couldnt find the answer to your question..

i wonder how many Gs the owner had to blow on this. But then again if you have money to buy a Ferrari F50, spending money on something like this wouldnt be a big issue...

yea thats cos of the higher viscosity of the normal gear oil. Yes, engine oil will solve the problem but using the recommended gearbox oil wont hurt. Seriously, you guys spend a fortune on body kits and other bling bling stuff, so why not spend a bit on buying the right oil for your car. Gear oil last for ages, so you dont have to worry about changing it that often.

April - F&F 4 May - Terminator Salvation June - Transformers 2

hehe..just a joke bro..yea even the member of the honda civic forum would advice you to use engine oil, but as pila has also mentioned, try your best to stick with the genuine stuff. Service stations would advice you to put the 80W oil that they normally stock, but dont ever fill it up with that shit. Whats the engine oil you are using? would you mind telling us about the mileage on your car?

well thats a big f**king body kit you have got there mate. Ill post a pic of a nicely done Vtec later on. Anyway, as soon as you get the car out of the garage make sure that you do the basic maintenance stuff. Mine did around 5-6kmp/l when i bought it, but after a full tuneup and basic stuff i managed to get around 10-11 kmp/l. However, keeping a dual carb in a good tune is a bit of a headache and it might cost you a bit money over time. Yea send me a PM when you are ready to get the mechanical stuff done ..

good job that you didnt go for a huge body kit. Better gear ratios gives you better acceleration..Does your engine bay look like this? If yes, then dont worry too much about after market air filters. Just leave it as it is and just make sure that you keep the air filter very clean.First of all get to know your car. Before spending your money on bolt on stuff like filters etc, consider spending a bit of money on a good tuneup and also make sure you check the ignition system as well. If the ignition coil is weak this could affect the performance as well the fuel economy. Also check the plug wires and spark plugs. The correct spark plug number for this model is BKR6E11.If everything turns out to be good, then go ahead with the mods. otherwise it would just be a waste of money. Good luck bro.. If you need help with any mechanical work..send me a PM

what sort of a body kit have you got on the car? if its a full heavy body kit with new front new bumper and rear bumpers, side skirts, spoilers,fog lights,air intakes on the bonnet, etc etc, then ditch all that and put the stock stuff back on. This will make a big difference.

http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/fast-and-f...tml?showVideo=1

follow the instruction on the lable. I have done this at home following the instructions given on the lable itself and it just worked great. 1. First drain the radiator and pour this liquid into the radiator and then fill it up with water. - before you do this, make sure that the engine is cold. 2. Start the engine with the radiator cap is open. As soon as you start the engine you might see the water level going down a lil bit. This is normal.Fill it up till it reaches the top level of the radiator. 3. Keep the engine running till it reaches its normal operating temp and at the same time make sure that you keep your heater running as well. The reason for this is to make sure that the water flows through the small radiator in the heater unit, so that the the radiator flush liquid could clean all the rush and other sh*t in it. 5. When the engine has reached its normal operating temp, let it run for another 10 -15 mins. I ran it for another 15mins. 6. Then turn the engine off and and wait till it cools down completely. 7. Drain the system again. 8. Fill it up and start the engine and wait till it reaches its normal temp. 9. Let it cool down and drain it again. 10. Fill it up with water and start the engine, but this time dont close the radiator cap. While the engine is running, remove the drain plug of the radiator and at the same time pour more water into the radiator from the top to compensate the amount that drains out from the bottom, so that the engine doesnt run out of a constant and a good supply of water.While you are doing this, you will see some sort of a white form forming around the top of the radiator. This is normal and it is the left overs of the ABRO liquid.. Continue this process untill almost all of that white form is gone. 11. Turn the egnine, let if cool down and then fill the radiator up with some proper coolant. Good luck..DIY rules... Oh BTW i used the same brand that you have mentioned in your post. It worked great.

http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...rrarigoeshybrid

I have used fully synthetics in SL with oil changes at every 10K to 12K kms, but didnt experience any negative impacts on the engine. Chemicals in petroleum based oils react with each other, which would eventually result in issues such as sludge, varnish, etc. This is one of the main reasons why petroleum based engine oils need more frequent oil changes. But if you switch to synthetics, you dont have to worry about any of this happening inside your engine. Just fill it up, use a good filter and then forget about oil changes for next 10k or 12k kms..