timmy

WHere can you get the shocks tested ?

Thanx, I read the directions to the Thalawathugoda guy in the search results. I should be able to find him as he is on my way to work. Though appreciate if I can get the phone number, cos I can call and check his availability.

Guys, I need the contacts off these guys who do the repairs. I tried searching on the forum, but none gave a valid number. So if you could PM me the contacts, would be much appreciated, as I look to gettin it fixed in the next coupla days. thanx, Timmy

Yea Im goona get them looked into. Will report back once done.

Mine's a Lancer CK2 (97). Actually now that you mentioned it, the A/C is giving problems. Its not cooling enough. I have long discovered that the system is outta gas, and Im running on the remaining bit since I dont have enough time to go get it fixed. And on top of it when I switch off the A/c and keep the engine running I can hear a funny slipping sorta noise. I am not good at identifying the noise but it sounds as though the pulley is trying to catch up with something and then falling back. Its not the squealing noise that is quite familiar when the belt slips, but some whirring sound that occurs for about 3 seconds, stops for about 2 seconds and then goes over again. It only happens when the A/C has been used and then switched off. But the funny thing is there are two belts in my car and the A/C is driven by the belt which has not been changed by me. The other belt which drives the alternator is the one I think makes the squealing noise and therefore goes quiet after a 'belt change'. So if you say the A/C compressor is causing the prob, how can that effect the other belt, which is on another alignment of pulleys ?

What are you gonna change yours with ? Is this the one recommended from the agents ? Tell me if it reduces your noise and for how long you can use it.

Mate, its more likely the belt, cos Ive noticed after each belt change the squeal disappears and only reoccurs after a few months of usage. Its like these after market (or whatever u call them) belts aren't supposed to last long although they advertise 25,000 kms of usage and being made in England. This is why Im looking to buy one from the agents and want to know if it can be used for a few years without developing problems. The price actually is 4-5 times more than the after market so it better be good.

My car has been making a lot of squeaking noise lately when started up cold. It used to hang around for a few minutes but now it is there for the length of the ride. I believe the reason for this to be a slipping fan belt. This is the second fan belt Ive replaced having used each for a period of one year (I bought brand new ones from reputed makes to match the number of the fanbelt used originally). Ive also used other methods such as having soap shavings pasted onto the grooves or the ribs of the fanbelt. Ive even used special fan belt treatment liquid, but to no avail. The squeaking sound will not go off completely. One person suggested I use the original fan belt issued from the agent. My question is does the original fan belt issued by agents actually stay quiet or do they develop the squeaking noise after some time of use ?

Thanx, Is he still the number one for shutter repairs ? I had it fixed there a few years back. But he didnt do a good job really. I couldnt wind down the shutter completely. Got stuck when it came down to the bottom. So had to stick to only letting down the shutter halfway. But quite recently a driver actually let the shutter down completely at which the cable broke or reeled in. Got a phone contact ? I want to know if he's operational these days.

The driver's side window shutter stopped working and Im trying to find a place to get it fixed. The problem is that I am unable to lift the shutter up even using force. I think the cable has gone off the motor and the glass just wouldnt hold up. Can you guys recommend a place to get it fixed ?

If it helps, I own a CK2 as well (its an MX Extra) with the same spec you mentioned. I dont get a fuel mileage of more than 7.8 kmpl city driving. But outstation it does about 11 - 12 kmpl. You cant expect much from a car like this. But the fuel mileage you reported is certainly due to a prob in your engine I would say. My car also had brake binding issues and I remember the mileage figures dropping to about 5-6 kmpl. Once I got it sorted out the mileage rose again to the standard 7.8. I got a tuneup done from UM when I bought this car. They changed plugs and did a cleanup. The MUT didnt read any errors and it was mostly in Japanese. But I still do get that unburnt smell from the exhaust but I want to leave it at that, cos knowing trying to figure out the problem I would have to spend more money than the savings I could get from it.

YEA .. more the better. HEll after all the tax cuts are meant for the dealers, aren't they ?

Yup tru, this is disappointing Govt gives a heavy tax concession, but we dont see that being passed on to the consumer. AND THAT IS BLOODY UNFAIR !! I dont care how much my current car sells for, but I do hope the car market crashes here in SL. It is a bloody manipulative market. Earlier it was the govt. Now here we have the middle man to eff us all the way. At least for once let the Sri Lankan commoner get a decent car and enjoy life.

a TINY leak was all that it took for me to replace my cooling matrix last time. But anyways Im not comfy with the idea of havin the car being stripped jus to check for leaks again and having to kill time for that. I thought the thin condenser could be too much for the harsh weather here. But if you're willing to bet with your crown jewels that a thin condenser could not be a problem then im gonna take it. As for my fan, I think it works ok, cos I dont feel it give up at all. It seems to work fine (with the same whirring sound) even on long distances. So I dont think it's dying and the loss of cooling capability is due to its weakening (if there is).

Thanx for the recommendation, I spoke to them over the phone. They said that the warranty is only valid for 1 year. I too believe they did a good job last time. Now I remember that when they were fitting back the condenser after checking for leaks, that the condenser is faulty showing several places where the grilles were about to die. However they never asked me to replace the condenser. Had they recommended I would have done that too. I think the condenser must have sprung up a leak now. After searching in this forum too I found that most JDM cars come with thin condensers. Mine is also JDM and has a less than 1 inch thick condenser. So this could also be the reason for lower cooling capability. The only thing for me from taking the car back to ATCO is having to see the car being stripped again and inspected. But I will give it a try sometime soon. Maybe ATCO will do it at a concessionary price.

Oh dang, this sounds like a major op. Last time the A*CO technicians did something similar, but dint check the tubes. THey just installed 1 or 2 new tubes though. But the condeser and the cooler matrix were filled with air and submerged in a water tub. I'd like to get this whole things sorted out even if it means having to spend, but the thought of having the car ripped again and the time wasted doing it, is really bothersome. I wished there was an easy way out, but seems like there isnt one to check the leaks and seal it off easily. I will report back once I get it fixed. Thanx a lot for your insight.

could you kindly explain how they check for leaks by filling the system with nitrogen. I want know this before I get it serviced so that I dont get ripped off. When they checked for leaks in the cooler matrix, they filled it up with "some gas" and put the matrix in a tub of water. I saw bubbles coming out of it quite slowly, so we assumed this was the leak. Now how do you do this for the tubes ? Cos the condenser can also go in the tub of water, but the tubing how do u check for leaks in that ? Do you have to rip them off one by one and put them in the tub ? or is there any easier way ? and why use nitrogen ? what is specific about nirtogn to finding leaks ? thanx all for your replies.

thanx harshan, does this mean the compressor is running full time (without cutting intermittently) in trying to reach the desired temperature ? Is this the reason why the car is not doing well on fuel as well ? Yes by radiator fan, I meant the BIG fan under the bonnet which cools both the engine rad and the AC condenser. I got this regassed and a new cooling coil (fitted under the dash) from A*CO in Nugegoda about 2 years back. Is that how long an AC service can hold on to ? How can I fix this for good, i mean if the leak is outside (under the bonnet) and not in the cooling coils found under the dash ?

I thought the radiator fan is meant to switch on as soon as the AC is operational so as to ease cooling the AC condenser out in the front. Isn't it so ? IF not why is it that when the engine is started and you revv it up thoroughly the fan wouldn't kick in immediately, but for a slight load increase (as you say) from the AC, the fan kicks in ? However I still think the fan running continously is a problem and linked to the AC not cooling efficently. I've noticed in other cars this fan works intermittently when their AC is on. It used to be like that in mine.

Hi All, I think there is a prob with my Lancer's air conditioning. The A/C is not cooling properly as it used to, even when temp and blower have been maxed out. I previously thought it maybe due to the unbearable heat until i heard that another Lancer of the same model has no such cooling issues in the same weather. When I turn on the A/C I can hear the radiator fan kicking in. But then it stays ON for the entire ride. Previously, this fan used to work intermittently. That is when i halted my car, I could hear the fan cutoff and switch back on after a few mintues of being stationery. And when this fan used to work like this (intermittently) the cooling was all fine, if not adequate. But now it seems that the fan is indicating that there is an error in the air conditioning system and hence the lower cooling efficiency. About 2 years back I had a similar ac problem. When I turned on the AC only hot air came thru it. I took it to an ac repairer and they serviced the entire system , regassed it and installed a new cooling coil since they aid they found a slow leak in it (which i also saw). But now, there is some cooling in the A/C but it is by no means enough. My question is, is this normal ? If the fan is continously runnig when AC is operational does it suggest that there is a prob with the AC system ? Pls respond with advice. thanx, Tim.

Both cars look bad in my opinion.

Yea that's the one I was talking bout. Engine Code is 4G15 same as a CK2. I dont think this really has 160bhp cos a CK2 output is rated at 97 bhp. Only difference is this has GDI. Even if u leave out the GDI problem, the car's spec looks good on paper (6 speed gear box, tiptronics, original sports version etc.). But I read more about the GDI problems here in this forum. And I feel I wont be able to sell it if I buy it, cos that is the market sentiment. So I decided not to risk my money with it. Thanx for all your help though.

Hi all, Im interested in buying a Lancer CEDIA (yes the Japanes domestic version of the Lancer CS2). The car looks good and is supposed to be having a rated output of 160 BHP. WHat Im skeptical bout is the GDI system used, cos I've heard the 95 octane that we have here in this LAND LIKE NO OTHER, does not do justice to the engine. I jus want to know what you guys think. Could this be a ripoff for me ? Im not worried about the price tag cos I dint get to that yet. thanx, timmy.

kool, How is the fuel consumption figures like for your CK2 ? and what is the transmission ? tim.

Guys, does anyone know the average figures for a Lancer CK2 both in and out station I have an MX Extra , auto transmission, 1.5l. Does 7-9 kmpl average in Town and 10-12 kmpl outta town. I've noticed the variation to be highly dependant on driving style. Jus want to know if these are the averages for a car like this.