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Everything posted by isam
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The biggest problem with 11G is finding the 11G oil cooled turbo cartridge. They are out of stock at most vendors. Some UK vendors are selling them, but the price is too high. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and going for a 12T cartridge and compressor housing. Without the turbine housing it costs about USD 370 (exc. local tax and freight). Hopefully the 10% or so increase in air flow would do me good.
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Need A/c Dash Vents (All 4) For Mitsubishi Lancer Asp Model (1991)
isam replied to Iroshw's topic in MITSUBISHI
Maybe you could checkout on ebay. There are some vendors who break cars for parts. Since the items are not heavy you could get them via mail. -
What were they doing...? Playing Demolition derby with supercars???
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Thanks again MiniAce. I got some info on the 12T turbo. According to the vendor, the 12T turbo is similar to the 11G. Only the compressor side of the turbo has the difference. They assure, the 11G turbine housing could be coupled with the 12T compressor. The core (they call it CHRA) needs to be replaced along with the compressor side housing. The 12T has an improved compressor fan which provides slightly better compression.
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Don't Fix New Modified Valve Covers(Cap) To The Tyres
isam replied to hatharasinghe's question in Mechanical problems
Happened to me too. The way I saw it, it was some kind of oxidation which had cemented the caps to the valve sleeve. I guess the alloy used to manufacture these caps are not suitable for the job, or they maybe not suitable for SL weather. -
Many thanks Mini Ace for your valuable insights. I'd remember your instructions on what to do if the turbo gives way. Your instructions on the potential problem and what to do if the disaster strikes would save my life! Thanks again. I never knew a bad turbo could rev the engine like that. Regarding the replacement against rebuilding, I agree with you. Could you please let me know the Garrett turbo number of the Nissan VX? I found a Garrett 480000-2136 FF9001J Turbocharger on Ebay, but I'm afraid it has a 4 bolt attachment setup.
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Thanks Mini Ace. I'm afraid I don't have the DIY privilege (even though I'd love to). And most of the garage mechanics seems to have no idea when it comes to Turbos. I could get the turbo removed from the vehicle, but then again I'm worried to let the normal garage bass to dismantle it. Do you know any good place to get the check done? If so, please PM me. Thanks again.
- 19 replies
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oh oh... then I'm in trouble... I'm glad I asked, and Thanks a lot Don. I contacted a vendor called Kin*g*wa Turbo and he gave me two options: I could buy a chra (a kind of cartridge which includes the compressor wheels and shaft, etc.) and put it in the existing turbo housing or I could buy a complete turbo 9including the housing for tad more... The problem with this solution is that they only offer the TD04-12T turbo and the one in the engine is a TD04-11G. According to the vendor no changes are needed and the turbos could be swapped one to one. The vendor also says that the 12T turbo would increase the air-flow to the engine, too. When I searched on the TD04-12T I learned its the turbo which comes with the 2.8L 4M40. , so I'm having a little bit of doubt on this... If the 12T turbo provides better air flow I would like to have it. But it seems the bigger the turbo the bigger the turbo lag. (I'm assuming the 12T turbo is larger than the 11G... or is it?) Stock turbo spools fine around 2000rpm and I'm quite happy with it. Even if the turbos could be interchanged one to one, I'm reluctant to have more turbo lag... AL experts I need your help please.
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I run a vehicle with an old engine (non ecu) and when I was parked with the engine and the AC on under the scorching heat in Colombo, I noticed that the temperature meter has gone a tad up (more than the ideal as per the manufacturers mark), but it stayed just below the halfway mark. When the vehicle started to move, the temperature gauge gradually came down to the ideal level. So, I guess the cooling systems do get some support from flowing air when the vehicle is on the move. And the increased ambient heat is making the cooling system work a little harder than usual. At least for the non-ecu engines...
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Thanks for reading my post. This is regarding a Mitsubishi 4D56T (2.5L) engine. During the service I removed the Air intake horse from the turbo and saw oil has leaked into the compressor wheel. The engine was replaced a few years back and I'm not sure on the actual mileage of the turbo. Is this normal? or is the turbo dying?
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If the phone switched off and you had to press the power button to switch it back on, that means the OS on the phone had crashed.
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Good idea Don. Will try this.
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Hi DevakaC, how can I determine whether the lock has gone bad? I see no marks left by the lock on the lock hold fixed to the body. (Sorry but I don't know the technical terms for these.)
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Many thanks for your valuable suggestions and ideas. Yes it is the rear door with the spare wheel hanging. I checked the door pins - OK I checked for loose spare wheel - OK The Jerry Can always makes rattling noise which I'm used to but its not the case this time. I checked the rear door sprinkler tank (by giving it a nudge through the re-filler opening and it seems to be properly fixed. The toolbox also has no play. However I noticed two things: 1. The door beading seems to have rubbed against the door. I think it should not be rubbing the door but in good contact with the door. Which means the door is shaking when the vehicle goes over a hump. 2. There is a rubber door guide (sorry, but I don't know the correct term) below the lock which I see has again rubbed against the cradle like thing that holds it. This rubber door guide seems to be a little deformed from beaten around each time the door is closed and it has some scars on it. (Will post a photo soon) Could this be the culprit?
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Thanks for reading my post. I have a Pajero Mark 2 (Popularly known as the Intercooler Model in SL). For the past couple of days I have been noticing that its rear door gives a loud sound (like 'thud') each time it goes over a hump or a large pothole. Judging by the sound it seems like the door is loose and is thrown up ad down. I checked the hinges and they are fine. The closed door seem to fit in and has no play when I tried to shake it myself. Do any of you have similar experience? I took it to the garage and they also could not find anything wrong. I'm leaving it home coz I'm worried I might damage something if I keep on driving it.
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Could be. In that case I think those panels come in silverish colour?
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No we are not short of them, but it seams that there are a very few reliable ones who know what they are doing...
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4M40/4M41 are good engines. Superb power. And the 4D56/4D56T are time tested engines. Though they do not offer the same pulling power as 4M40s they are more economical. And you can punish them with all sorts of duties while they thank you for it. I have about 2 and a half years experience with one and I'm just loving it.
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They should remove the brake dust to do a proper paint job. If you use the All Wheel Cleaner fluid be careful not to spray it on the body and the plastic lug nut covers of the wheels. The solution is too strong for them.
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I've heard about a version of Gypsy version called 'Gypsy King'. Mini, is there any difference between them? I've no idea about Gypsy. Is there any online resources that you can point me to?
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Why don't you talk to your banker and ask for the necessary document list that you need to submit for the loan?
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Be careful bro, all I know is if the biker hits your car the biker definitely will get hurt. And most of the time us car drivers will be blamed (even before the investigations). I think the bikers and pedestrians should always be mindful about their actions on the road especially during the rainy days. Night driving during the rainy days are very difficult because of the low visibility, potholes covered in water, and the bikes and pedestrians trying to make it home quick. All the good conditions for fatal accidents.
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Big D U R joking right? The most scariest of all on the road for me are the pedestrians and bikes. A small nudge would have disastrous results.
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Request to the bikers: Please horn and let the other vehicles know that you are overtaking from the left (if you really need to do that). We are more concerned about your safety than you yourself.
