Ripper

try maligawatta area shops. i faintly recall seeing similar style helmets there. with the whole ww aviator style goggles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7x9E3RbAGs Just saw this and remembered this old thread. Should be a cool project if one can find a kaput v8 or v12 as the v design seems to work best for this.

1+ and there can be mechanical issues for poor starting tappet clearances, carb issues, timing issues etc... As for Rust, as DON says... sometimes it's just surface level even if it's not..some can be fixed without too much of trouble But yeah...few pics of affected areas would help

The XR 250 isn't that bad to kick start unless there are issues with it. Also there is the sweet spot to kick over too. If it's been hacked...better to check the top and see like tappet cleanrance etc are all in order. Brakes too are pretty simple mechanisms...easy fixes. You can get a golden boy brand or smiliar branded tyre without breaking the bank. I've used that brand myself on my XR and it has held up well. Even on very long rides at high speeds and harsh terrain. IMHO spending a bit of money and sorting your XR is a better bet unless of course it's beyond economical repair. which doesn't happen to XR's often as they are almost bulletproof bikes. And yes. if you noticed...i'm heavily biased for the XR range

the elder two are more responsible i guess. dont seem to make obvious public blunders like this and punching refs etc. anyway life goes on....

DM article is quite funny i'd say driving a car without plates... jeez as if it's the first time. and the GTR too had fake plates. Only in SL you get to drive around minus plates with military backup defenders.

i think we all know who the owner of this it's the same chap who had his GTR knocked into a toyota not so long ago.

Great Job Davy! I've been dragging my feet to do my door cards to drop in bigger speakers. This has given me the confidence to take it on. super stuff!

it worked really well. served 9 people and nobody really had to wait much. grilled everything from sausages, corn, pork leg chops, garlic bread, tandoori chicken, beef and bell peppers I do need to attend to some minor issues. Need to put a heat resistant rubber cover for the stand legs where it touches the barrel body. paint gets scraped cos right now it's metal to metal. Need to repaint the stand with hammer finish paint as regular paint can't take the abuse and starts peeling off Need to put a felt gasket tape along the edge of the lid so it's sealed tighter when the lid is closed. Need to put side covers for the coal tray since when you pour hot coal out of the chimney starter, ash does get out of the tray into the barrel body Need to make two steel hooks to lift the hot coal tray in and out All are minor fixes except the felt tape has to be shipped down off ebay. will take a break and sort these out later As for the cost, materials alone would be touching 20-25 If you add time, power etc...it's a lot more. I bought the wood router just for this... I knew it would never make "financial sense" you can get a factory made used grill for cheaper. In my case, i had specific requirements that warranted a custom build

Nuwara Eliya. Mount crest bungalow lawn.

fundamentally, fibreglass is strands of glass fibre held together by a type of "glue" this "glue" come in two parts...the resin and hardener. there are different types of resins...like clear resin, opaque resin etc. fibre comes in different types as well. you get the glass cloth which is like a sheet with woven fibers in it. these are usually biaxial woven rovings there are plenty youtube vids on how to fibreglass... i believe that would be your best bet to get a good understanding on thinds

marketing doesn't come up with advertising concepts. they come up with brand plans and strategies. agencies come up with communication strategies and "concepts" SPAACS to my understanding is for people who want to get into advertising. im not 100% sure though. Marketing plays a totally different role. I feel you need to study the topic a bit more and really figure out the scene

i googled that school and found out it's spaacs which i know of

depends on which side of the fence you'd want to be in i guess. I'm in advertising... agency side. creative. you can be a marketer...build brands and work with agencies Or...you can be in the agency side... either in creative department or in agency brand management/account planning department have never heard of the institute you've mentioned though.

Thanks buddy and it was a pleasure. I've seen a few builds on other forums and tried to add more details so should somebody else wanna follow...it's easier to see the process Thanks Davy. will definitely take finished shots off a dslr and post here. would be nice to see this out of my messy garage and doing it's thing as it's designed to which is why i didn't want to take finished pics at home.

Side table top thingy. drew the pieces on the plank of mahogany and cut it with the circular and jig saws. Al cheapo chinese jog saw i got years ago is still working like a champ. I ran the router on some of the edges with a round-over bit so it looks more sleeker. then machine sanded with 100grit finishing off with hand sanding with 220 grit Pieces were wood glued and clamped into place but after drying i used 1.5" brass screws too stained with mahogany stain and matte clear varnished. the two triangular pieces are for the temp control discs so there's something to grab onto. I'll be using epoxy to fix this into place all other bits here are for the lid handle after staining i was wondering if i should've kept just the wood finish and clear varnishing on top alone. feel the color is too dark. anyways...if i really hate it i'll take it apart, re sand and do it again fully assembled table top. clear varnished and hung to dry the varnish i had got solidified a bit so i had to use a bit of thinner. think i over did it as despite my best efforts to no overspray, it was dripping down it was dry in the morning but it's got drip marks gotta figure something out for that. wet sanding with the pad sander using about 800 grit maybe The paint on the stand too isn't holding well Gotta get hammer finish paint and respray. I'm told this hammer finish paint holds up well to scuffs Now the build is done. I'm taking it with me to the hills over the weekend so will post some "action" shots with more details. Hope somebody found this build log useful in some form. Taking a break for a while in with building stuff. Next project would be a pair of car ramps.

chaos. the stand wasn't fitting after painting. the tolerances were way too fine. I had to cut the center leg part and re-weld it. Ran a good bead with an SS rod. And re painted the whole thing. vents in closed position. Full open. I painted the bolt too so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Used a thinner flat washer under the rotating disc so it's doesn't scrap the paint. Inside part of the disc was left unpainted so noting will leak into the cooking area Going to stick a circular wood block with epoxy to this so it's easier to turn. I can't seem to find the arbor for my wooden hole saw kit. Gonna cut a wooden disc on the bench drill without a drill tip but with just the circular saw. Then stick that disc onto this. Finally... All metal work done and finished. Starting on the wood bits. Made these saw horses sometime back and its serving as a temporary work bench. My main work table has too much of stuff on it as it is and saw dust just makes a thadi mess. marked and ready to go. measure twice, cut once. And let the tool to the work and dont push it I'm using Mahogany. This will be stained and matte varnished eventually. The first cuts are for the side table top. Got this used from a famous online classified site. drove all the way to pilimathalawa just to pick it First time using a router...i'm no wood worker so this can get ugly Idea is to cut a groove all the way through the wood in two pieces so it can slide into the side handle. two of these will secure the table top. you'll get an idea once it's done done. the shallow groove is for the lid handle. two wooden pieces like this will cover the ugly steel handle i made. Will join the two pieces with woodflour-epoxy putty and brass screws. pieces cut out and ready for a router run with a roundover bit. closing shop for the day. cleaning up this mess take another 2-3 hours Next up. Assemble the stand. finish the side table top and the handle. sand, stain and clear lacquer the wood bits install the heat gauge Make a small wooden jig sorta thing to carry the barrel in the truck securely so it wont roll around. Should be one more days work

made a template for the control vents on illustrator and got it printed. stuck this with spray adhesive to the barrel so i can accurately punch in the drilling points. Used a smaller drill bit as a pilot hole first as i wanted these to be accurate as possible Vents check! I did this to both sides so i'll have two vents on either side. i softened the edges with a rat tail file Top lid holding chain. In early part of the build i failed to get a retractable arm mechanism to work for this. had a spare steel chain dog collar at home. it was un-used so just cut the thing up...welded two bolts to each end and made two bracket to screw these into. The brackets are riveted into place on the lid and onto the main barrel body. Works like a charm. And when you close the lid full the chain sits a good 4 inches over the grill surface. So little chance of it touching any food. Cut. there goes the perfect safety record i had upto now. I was drilling through a piece of sheet metal on the bench drill when it spun around and drove in to me palm luckily it was a minor cut despite the blood. always always wear gloves. and keep things secured before using power tools. I gotta get bench clamps to fit onto the drill. the heat resistant paint from slave island. I tried heating this up with the welding torch and it seems to hold up well. But it doesn't seem to be very good at resisting scuffs. For added peace of mind i gave everything a second coat. Label reads not to use more than two coats so stopped at that

Coal tray 90% done. Gotta rivet in a piece of sheet metal to the bottom so it works as an ash pan. Fallen ash is a mess to cleanup. Hopefully this tray will catch it all so i just need to take the whole thing out and clean that. Tray is a tad over 4 inches in height. I'm guessing it will take two bags of coal at least if not a bit more I also welded in a cup holder. Got this little SS cup from arpico and it will serve as a small water pan. this will keep moisture levels up up inside so grilling meat wont go dry. Especially when cooking with the lid closed. Welding the little handle to the cup got messy as i burnt through the cup material I bought the thickest cup they had at 600 odd bucks but it was just double walled material instead of true thicker material. bit of a bummer there as it looks a tad ugly although i did manage to slowly "fill" the burn through hole. Gotta somehow get a mig welder so i can weld thinner gauge stock First burn. Got half a pack of coal in a clay pot and chucked it in to burn off any residue and left over paint. with half a pack, the temps got to a steady 175 degrees. intake vents not installed yet to control heat. finishing off the stand. Used a bit of filler to clean up welds and grinding marks. used the wood working pad sander to make things fast. Hate sanding... And i didn't do a good job of it either. Mistakes showed up after applying the matte paint Rushing sanding process is never a good thing...lesson learnt. It's the stand so hopefully it wont look too bad once it's all done Most hated part of the build. prepping and painting. If i ever do this again...cleaning and stripping the barrel fully would be the first step. I made the mistake of starting work without getting rid of all the paint and residual stuff. I didn't want to strip paint as i live close to the sea and corrosion would effect things as i take time to finish the work. sprayed... will clean overspray on the inside with some paint thinner or stripper Finally it's here the 40mm hole saw... my office security chap handed me this as i walked in to work today No can make the side control vents next steps... 1. make control vents 2. finish painting 3. add the a chain to hold the lid open 3. assemble stand 4. make the wooden handles and the side table tops 5. Final fully fire of the pit

trail tech vapor.... it's not really aimed at roadies...meant for enduro riding. was thinking of one of these for my xr as the stock meter was having issues on an off. But then life happened and hardly get to do bike trips anymore... I'm assuming there are roadie trip meters too

After the rain my garage floor had got wet and only then i realized the stand legs sitting on the ground straight might not be the best. Did a quick shopping run at arpico and got these rubber inserts. 1.5 inch square blocks that loosely go into the 1.5inch square pipe. I drilled a small hole on the pipe to drive a screw later so it will hold the rubber in place. Will also use epoxy on top of the rubber when i'm installing it into the pipe these four pieces will get welded onto the bottom bit so it will stand on these rubber blocks These weld magnets are really becoming handy. Welding the brackets in place on the bottom of the stand Finally starting on the coal tray The bottom "L" frame will have a full sheet metal cover. This will serve as an ash pan. The four vertical "L" pieces will be covered from bottom and sides to hold coal. This should be pretty solid but the draw back is the weight. pointless making it out of thinner gauge material as the heat will eat through it fast. Looking more like a "tray" now. Once in the barrel, the top of this sits 1.2 inch below the grill surface. The coal can go upto 4 inches deep. 3 layers of briquettes i'm guessing... Since i chose the smaller barrel, interior space is limited... So i had to ditch the idea of trying to make a coal tray with adjustable height. Should be able to get some level of heat control within the grill by moving the briquettes to one side Overall temp can be managed by the two air intakes.

This turned out to be monumental waste of time. I wanted the top lid to stay securely held once lifted up and was trying to make two collapsible arms. made all four pieces with drilling, cutting and grinding but found out it wouldn't work. i was trying to copy the design that keep the tail gate in place on the truck...but didn't really think how things would be different for two curved pieces. On the truck it's between two flat panels. Little frustrations of DIY Gonna now replace it with a stainless steel chain. It wont look the best, but without major surgery i can't see a way out. The handle i welded last weekend was off alignment by 3-4mm. I cut the thing out, made a new one with perfect 90 degree angles and welded the thing in place. First time using a chemical paint stripper. Wanted the original paint out so i can put my heat proof paint on it This is really strong stuff. i was initially thinking of spraying it but luckily didn't got that route and used a brush. When you get it on your skin, it really burns. Long gloves, pants, shoes all needed to handle this It's worth it as it works beautifully Most of the paint out, needs a high pressure wash down

voltage does drop on thinner gauge wires and chances are as old they get, the resistance only increase. this is why high heavy gauge wires are used for audio amps and stuff on cars. not only for power handling but also to reduce voltage drop. If it's just the headlights, why not use the stock wiring only to power a relay and have fresh wires from the battery switched though the relay to power the lights? This way the stock wiring will only run the relay and they they very little power. A direct line off the battery properly fused should sort it out imho

Stabilizer or the voltage regulator? haven't seen stabis on cars myself...regulators yes Regulators just ensure the voltage doesn't go beyond safe limits when revving up to prevent damage to battery and other electricals bits. Since these are nowadays built into the alternator itself, dont see how there can be a drain since to my knowledge alternator circuit isn't powered without the ignition switch in "ON" position. However...bad electronics in the rectifier/regulator unit on the alternator can end up not charging your battery properly. On dual battery...assuming it's a 12v system stock and two batteries are wired for power and not voltage (wired parallel) still there's no issue of a power drain The only question is if the alternator power outing is enough to charge two batteries properly. Each alternator has a max wattage capacity