Ripper

1+ this is the reason i feel but maybe they should have some form of quality checking and then letting people license a vehicle as it is the case in some other countries. The uk i believe has an MOT test

I've been toying with the idea of building a lotus 7 kit car. long term project...something i can do with my son Need few more hardware but i'm on my way to collecting most of it. the chassis on those have to be fabricated new since its a space frame chassis. But other bits like front uprights, rear diff etc etc can come off a donor car. Engine too ideally something off a rear wheel drive car with a larger motor... As difficult as it..building the car shouldn't be a problem...provided one has the patience, time and money to sink to it. As for registering...best bet seem to be buying an older car and using it's registration on the kit car. Not exactly legal though... But sadly i doubt our guys would include a proper process to register self built cars

i made a subwoofer box and not really a console for storage. the build was detailed on a thread here but i used plywood and then used carpetting to cover the wood surfaces.

you sound like my wife but yeah...good point. i think i need professional help..... was downloading plans for a home made english wheel This is apart from the weed eater RC boat thing i already started.

Boys The sudda fellow who is doing these cobra replicas...is he getting his cars registered through RMV? Been bitten by this locost bug myself Trying to see all the options... It would be a waste to spend all that energy, money and time on a locost if you can't drive the bloody thing on normal roads.

Not sure of your exact model and how it fits etc but sometimes you can get one of these from another vehicle and tweak a bit to make it fit to yours. I was thinking of doing the same when i fitted my subwoofer in there, ended up making one myself since i couldn't find anything that fitted my need.

Thanks mate. And from what i could dig up on the web...this seems to be only for HID converts. Looks like some choka HID converted guy blinded some big wig! Maybe its for the best anyways... it was just a matter of time untill three wheeler guys figured out this HID thing. THose dual lighted 3wheelers already have prettty powerful heads. Imagine those running HID's?

Have been running with 9.5inch dia hella driving lights for well over an year without a problem. It's mounted on the bumper almost at the same level as the heads. Lenses are not covered. But i rarely use them cos the low beam 90w stock halogens get the job done for me 99% of the time. The driving lights come in handy only when a moron comes with his head beams on or when i'm out of town when extra lighting is needed and there are no other oncoming vehicles to blind. So far, i've never been pulled up for the lights.

anyone have more info on this? wonder if its only for HID's or whether auxiliary driving lights too come into play here. 99% of the time i drive on low beams. But have a pair of large driving lights for emergencies mounted on the bumper at the same height as the heads. Wonder if coppers will go after that too now

Thanks Sylvi. I live in Wattala. Hendala area to be exact. Thank you very much for the offer. I wouldn't want to be a burden and be a hassle for you. i wont be able to weld much until the auto dimming welding helmet arrives as i bought one off ebay. So by the time that comes in, should have the wiring issue sorted since now i know it's to do with the breaker switch. Thanks again. Will let you know if i fail to sort it out myself

Thanks TBT and Scooter, I didn't think of the breaker thing that seriously so bought one off a closeby hardware joint. the brand is orange. rated 15A and seems like class "C"...it says "C10" Just read up on it and looks like this is the cause for my tripping issue Will see if i can get a type D and see... Thanks again boys for the info

thanks for the info guys. took the welder to the nearby weld shop and got the guy to power it up and weld through all the ranges and it worked like a charm. no tripping. nothing. tried it at home a while back and for some reason, when you power it in 3rd power setting..no tripping. Go down first setting and it trips. I welded a bit on 3rd power setting but at the slightest hint of "sticking" the breaker trips. Mind you i didn't get any stickups, just that "almost stickup" point the breaker trips. I'm assuming the breaker i have hooked is hyper sensitive. possibly female although it's 15A, at the slightest bloody feel of a stick up it trips... is there a sensitivity setting other than just the amperage for breakers? Spoke to the lady at the hardware shop but she was utterly clueless

1+ also there is this place in rattanapitiya that has loads of stuff like surfboards, racks, boats etc etc... Not been there myself but once called them up to check on some machinery they had advertised on the papers. worth a shot going there an checking the place out.

i got a dedicated unit just for the garage power supply machang. that sucker can handle upto 15 and trips beyond that. The main homen breaker doesn't get involved in this cos the garage supply is direct to the mains ahead of the home system will try the earth thing over the weekend and see if that work...

yep...i too felt welding current is no indication of operating current cos it's a transformer thing in there. But wasn't really sure of it. 15A wont cut it for me for some reason machang cos the breaker keeps on tripping. even in low setting. However, i didn't have the machine grounded at the time of testing. The stupid power plug doesn't have a proper ground connector although the manual says you gotta ground the thing. So i'd have to hook up a ground wire to the casing and jerry rig something up. you reckon after grounding it properly it should work off 15A? I bought it in panchi and they tested in front of me without a ground wire. And it worked without tripping anything Will have a chat with my welding shop dude too.... that guy runs two units. one oil cooled and the smaller air cooled one just like what i got. Just another stupid Q. If one were to touch the positive line coming off the welder, will that give a thadi shock? prefer to work without gloves but that's risking touching the electrode at some point for sure...

ha ha ha thanks for the info machang! I didn't want to bust a lotta money on the first go. hence the cheaper stick unit. If i get it right...i will buy a MIG for sure. Like you say...it's the best for thinner material and supposedly far easier to master than the stick. And for the tripping thing...i can get the plant going fine on 1st power setting. the moment i go beyond that, before even getting a spark the trip kicks in. Also it seems to be difficult to keep the arc going in low setting. Mind you i'm a complete noob for welding thought it was cheap enough to start off with a stick welder so thought why not btw...dropped you a PM

MIG have to have a shielding gas machang cos the moment the metal weld rod becomes melted upon arcing, it needs to be shielded from atmospheric oxygen. Or else the super heated metal will react with O2 and screw up the strength of the weld. Also...MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas... "Inert" is where argon gas gets into the picture There are some machines that can use CO2 instead of argon though. This "shielding" issue is why even typical stick welding rods have a flux core around it. As this core burns, it emits gases to shield the weld pool from messing with atmospheric gases MIG welders are actually just like stick welders in terms of the current part of things but have a wire feed roll instead of welding rods. And the wire is uncoated. So maybe when you saw that particular mig plant, it would've appeared to be without a gas cylinder. But i doubt it can work without the gas. would like to take a look at that ebay link though I've read extensively online about welding bits maybe the info i got was outdated.

Got a AC stick welder machang. regular arc. Wanted a mig but the costs were little beyond me at the moment. 250A mig unit alone is north of 150,000. Then comes the cost for the argon cylinder etc so a mig would have to wait I just needed something to start off with so this should work for the moment. The Mig will come if i master the arc As for a spot welder. CRC in seeduwa (former formulaworld of SLIC) has a couple of spot welders, Migs, tigs etc. Also they are pretty good at repairs. They do understand crumple zones etc so welding things solid as some wayside buggers would do. At least that's how it was when it was under SLIC. Worth a shot checking with them to see if they can sort out at least that part should they prove to be cost prohibitive for the whole project.

Thanks Sylvi I dont plan on doing heavy or constant work with this. It's a small portable unit i bought for my DIY projects at home. I've had professional welder chaps coming home to do weld jobs before and they have used portable units without a hitch. They usually take power straight off the main line so none of the household breakers or fuses are involved. I was just wondering if those guys could run their machines, chances are...i too can run mine with the correct safety features without upgrading lines etc. There is a weld shop close to my home and that chap too operates out of his garage sorta thing. will have a chat with the bloke and see how he has done it.

thanks for the reply mate. sounds complicated. Maybe i'll drop in at the welding joint near my house and see how that guys has his wiring done. thanks again.

interesting stuff! must try when me battery dies on me...

Hi all Got myself a 250A stick welder but having problems with supplying power to it off my garage electrical setup. At present, i have routed power off the mains ahead of the home circuit to my garage and it's controlled via a 15amp breaker. 15amps is good enough to run the 2hp compressor and my powertools with ease but it trips when i hook up the welder and go beyond the first power setting. My home supply at the moment is only single phase although the welder can run both single and three phase. After going through the welder manual, it looks like it needs 40Amps to run at full power in single phase. So i was thinking of getting an auxiliary line off the mains straight up and run it through a 50amp slow burning fuse and a 40amp breaker. Just to be safe, thought of getting an independent ground connection to this circuit. Is this the best way to do it? Have heard of electrical interference from welders and one has to employ isolators but have no idea what those are and how they work etc. Appreciate if any electrical experts can chime in on this with some tips have attached a pic with my planned setup

generally 20~22 gauge sheet metal is good for body work. for heavy work 14 gauge is good. just started meddling with sheet metal myself I would follow MasterDon's resto thread. that should give you a good idea about rust fixes. He's a proud owner of many rustbuckets

Time to get a portable fire extinguisher...just in case

i'd go for the used jap one... did the same for my truck.