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If there's no oil burn, best to use the oil viscosity that you have already been using.

Hi Where are you from? If around Colombo, Nilwala Motors in Madiwela is a good place for tranny related issues. Also if you're going that way you can go to NSM Edirisinghe motors they have good selection of spares and a garage too for your other issues. Make sure to go early. For the AC vents check Delkanda or the FB groups, 121 parts are not a rarity in SL😄. For the door lock your locking module will have to be checked, a good electrician should be able to sort it out. Others will surely recommend / check older posts there were some good places. Admins let me know if putting names of places goes against rules will edit it😄

Hi @iRage Thanks for the input. Yeah thought about it and going to get the coils down from Japan, TL prices are absurd for some stuff.

Hi All, Need your expert advise on replacing ignition coils. My car is a Toyota SCP90 and three ignition coils have weakened. Need to replace them as it's causing rough idle and engine hesitation. The genuine Denso coil costs around Rs.35,000 at Toy#ta L#nka. Even getting it down from Japan will cost around Rs.25,000. There's the Flamma Ignition Coil (made by YEC) brought down by GS Auto. One coil costs around Rs. 9500. Does anyone have experience with this brand? My other option would be get reconditioned Denso coils which is about Rs.6500 per coil.

Hi @amsandun, I've had a similar situation sometime back in my SCP90 as well. The EPS locking under low power was a sign that my alternator was going bad. In addition to getting the drive belt replaced, check the alternator as well because in my case I got the alternator repaired which fixed the EPS as well.

Issue was with the master cylinder, removed and checked inside the bore, there was some noticeable rust (may be due to no timely replace of bf by the previous owner) therefore a seal kit wasn't enough and I had to replace the master cylinder pump. After replacing, bled the brakes completely and refilled with new brake fluid. No leaks inside the drums as well. Brakes are now working great, no loss of stopping power or pedal feeling spongy.

Hi @iRage Thanks for the input. It's a combination of both actually, the pedal goes in deeper and takes a longer distance to stop. The pedal is feeling of kind of mushy, or spongy. Sorry for the choice of words, but that's how it feels. And no noises or heating. No burning smell as well. I'll update after proper inspection

Hi Everyone, I need your help in diagnosing a brake issue in my car. Since last Thursday or so, the braking power in my car has been reduced and I need to press the pedal more than I used to to get the brakes work fully. I also saw similar threads posted by the members some time ago such as: My car is a Vitz (SCP90) and the recently following repairs were done to the braking system: - Bleed and replace brake fluid (Around 6 months ago). - Replaced both front pads and rear shoes (Akebono, around 4 months ago) and drums were also resurfaced. Observed the following as well: - No any warning lights on the dash. - Reduced brake power is consistent, however if the pedal is pumped twice, the brakes will grab as it used to earlier. - No reduction in brake fluid. All the repairs mentioned above were done at the same garage that I usually do my repairs and when I took the car to them yesterday they told that it could be an issue with the master cylinder. They said they'll have to inspect further before confirming the exact issue (will be taking in the car tomorrow). I want to know what to look out for, as if it is the master cylinder, can it be rebuilt using a washer kit or does it have to be replaced? Any other areas I need to check for any leaks or other signs. Really appreciate your thoughts on this.

Regarding the water leak, check if any AC lines are blocked as well (drain hose I think it's called). I know you have mentioned it's only during rain but better to check. Also did you do any windscreen related repairs recently? That's also a common problem for water leaks. In the meantime, check your boot for any collected water, that's another common issue, where hatchback tail light clusters leaking water and that water gets under the carpets (not related to your water droplets leaking but safe to check)

Hi Everyone, I want your opinion on replacing the headlight lens on my 2007 Vitz (SCP90 - Pre facelift). Sometime I ago, I bought this car as my first ride and all has been well, apart from the usual mechanical maintenance. Thing is when I bought the car, the lens of both the front light lens were yellowed out and with cracks. The previous owner had pasted one of those stickers which caused the hairline cracks to develop (Yes I know, should have looked out for a car with better looks, but at the time most of the cars I looked at had faded and disfigured front lights, so putting that factor apart I went for the most mechanically and structurally sound car so here I am) Since I have sorted out almost all of the mechanical issues on my car, I thought of improving the looks since these yellowed headlight lenses dull the look to a great extent. Since there are hairline cracks, polishing is out of the equation and I need to replace these lenses. Even though there are cracks, both lights are structurally sound (no water leaks or condensation). So I have several options and I'm listing them out one by one, let me know your thoughts on which I should go for. 1. There's a joint in Delkanda that will do both the lenses for 40K. They'll warrant the replacement for any leaks after the repair and will fix it for free if any leaks occur (6 months). The lens they use are brand new and seem to be better in quality to the ones available on Al*Exp****. 2. Another place said they'll do the repair for around 30k, (famous headlight cleaning joint in Pannipitiya) but they'll source the lenses from another used unit (that's hopefully in good condition) 3. There's lens available on Al*Exp**** for around 15-20k which I can bring down, but I cannot warrant on the quality of these, if it will fit perfectly and will have to find a place that will replace them. Even if I do, there's no guarantee on the work that will be done if anything goes wrong, these people will blame it on the lenses. 4. Replacing both headlight units cost 25k or more than the current amount mentioned above so it doesn't really make sense. Any suggestions are mostly welcome and here's some photos of the lenses. TIA

You can check the spare parts joints in Delkanda, or Gampaha areas. People post these in the Facebook pages as well, check the Vitz Facebook page and Rap** R** Ra**** Facebook pages.

As far as I know the unit with the tachometer is plug and play you shouldn't have any issues. I saw a post on the Vitz facebook page where one had done the swap without any issues. The image of the unit you have posted seems to be one belonging to the pre-facelift, the facelift versions came with an orange backlight. You'll have to adjust the Odometer reading to your new unit, shouldn't have any issues regarding that since Sri Lankans are wizards when it comes to mileage 😜 Converting your A/C from manual to automatic won't be simple as replacing just the front panel. Our experts will comment on that. My suggestion is to keep it as it is and save that money to service the A/C or for a new compressor based on the mileage (Vitz compressors tend to pack up when racking up the miles).

I would recommend Auto Glance in Koswatta, I use them for all my detailing work, better check the reviews as well.

Hi, Both these cars have been extensively discussed in the forums, I think you can get a comprehensive idea of both from the already available articles. Adding on top of that, I'll add my opininon the 1300cc Vitz as I use one as my daily. Regarding the space, the car has ample space as a hatchback both in the front and rear. Since the gauge cluster is mounted in the middle you get multiple storage bins which I find useful. Rear seats and legroom are comfortable for a hatchback. This is based on my parents and friends opinions on long trips. The RPM meter is only included in the highest grade of the Vitz. The reliability factor depends on how well the car has been taken care of. Make sure you set aside 2-3 lakhs for preventive maintenance. Only issue I had with mine was an EVAP issue which gave me a bit of a headache☹️ @iRage helped me a lot with this issue. Otherwise the car has been really good for me so far. So make sure you get the vehicle inspected thoroughly because when I was searching I had to inspect close to 10+ vehicles which were all dressed up or abused before finally settling. Common issues would be the age related issues such the rubber seals cracking. In addition, steering rack issues and wheel hub problems are ones to look out for. Spare parts won't be an issue as it is one of the most common vehicles on our roads. Also keep in mind that the Vitz has low ground clearance 😁 One suggestion I would add would be the Mazda Demio, both the Swift and Demio also have 1500cc models as far as I know but no idea about the fuel consumption. Also Mazda Axela hatchbacks pop up for sale now and then if you can find one in good condition but would be a bit pricey. Our veteran members would be able to provide more insights. Happy hunting

Thank you for your insights, and yes I noticed the long hissing sound when the stalling occurred. Opening the fuel cap gives a considerable hissing/vacuum sound. I will get the EVAC system and the charcoal canister checked as well. I'm still getting good mileage therefore would you advise on replacing the Airflow sensor as Toy#ta L#nka suggested. (I plan to use the car for some time).

Haha 😂 @iRagethat's what I've been doing recently. I stop fueling once the handle tucks. The current problem is that there's reduced power even when I'm running half tank. But this issue only occured after the stalling problem started. Any leads where should I starting looking to diagnose Thanks

Hi Everyone, I'm having a Toyota Vitz 2007 SCP90 (2SZ-FE), as of recent when the tank on the car is full, the engine stalls at low RPM (at traffic lights, stop-go etc). But after stalling the car starts again without any issue. This happens often until some amount of petrol has been used from the full tank. Also the car does not accelerate as usual when this problem is occuring. I recently did a tune up where all 4 plugs were replaced with new Iridium plugs along with 2 injector coils but this did not fix the problem as well. The second time this issue occured, the petrol pump was replaced as the OBD scan codes showed that the issue was with the fuel, but the issue occured again. I went to Toy#ta L#nka to get a diagnosis and they concluded that the Airflow Sensor/Oxygen sensor 1 was failing. Kindly note that there are no check engine lights while running, only time check engine light comes on is when the car stalls with a full tank during low RPM, that also goes away when the car is turned on again. The OBD code reading now shows up as rough idle. I read an old AL thread which mentioned that replacing the MAF sensor fixed the issue for one of the members, but I'm not sure if it will help in my case as Toy#ta L#nka mentioned that the MAF sensor was good, only that the Oxygen sensor needed replacing. I would like to get your opinion on this issue, as different sources point to many possible causes including EGR valve issues, MAF sensor failing, Oxygen sensor failing etc. Since replacing the Oxygen sensor costs a significant amount of money, I would like to get a second opinion on what else needs to be checked to diagnose the problem before replacing the sensor. Any place around the Malabe / Colombo area that would be able to diagnose the issue will also be highly appreciated. Cheers!