porkster

I am in complete agreement with Nexgen, good going and good advice, the metal top on the smaller K&N is a heat shield. Also it seems to me he has made every attempt to direct the plumbing to as close to the fender as possible and inline with where the stock box was removed. Cold air kits can easily be fabricated at most local muffler shops just make sure the piping is designed correctly to take full advantage of the venturi effect. Only wish there was more larger diameter aluminum piping to be found locally and a mandrel bender then you can get really good custom intake and intercooler jobs done taking advantage of the lighter aluminum and better heat dissipation capabilities especially from the T6061 grade. Otherwise best bet is to get it done in SS and then have the puppy heat tape wrapped. I did this wrapping on my exhaust maniflod and I can touch it even after the engine has been run hard Cheers, Porky

Hi, You can get quite a few Nissan parts at Pioneer or at GS for decent prices, they are located close to each other at Panchikawatte just ask, the agents are incompetent rogues don't take your car there unless they put a seasoned mechanic on it. Usually they have the tech school trainees making a mess of things. As the other members have suggested you probably need a tune up and I suggest you get you air cleaner filter changed, the air in Colombo is filthy and it tends to clogged quite fast. For your tune up you can try D*MO they are relatively competent. Shouldn't cost more than 10-12K max. That is with the new fuel filter, plugs, throttle decarb cleaning, A/F adjustment and idle adjustment. They have wideband O2 sensors to do a proper tuning. Shocks if you don't want to buy new ones u can always pick up some decent used ones from Delkanda or you can go for the OEM direct replacement ones from KYB, they are damn good, cost less than the Nissan brand and are suited for our roads. G'luck buddy Cheers, Porky

Sorry for the late reply, sent you a mail

Well if done right you can expect 0-5 more horses at the flywheel, also your N16 doesn't suck it just come highly detuned, if given the proper care and right mods it can be made to haul ass. As for your Verossa it has a cover which can be removed to get to the goodies underneath, afterwards you can replace the cover and no one will be wiser to the mods laying beneath. Don't be intimiated by high heat resistant PTFEs (ie plastic) Hi Mudith, Sent you a mail, give me a holla back. Cheers, porky

Hi, Nope go for it, it is one of the easiest and safest things you can do to get a bit more zip in your car. Just make sure you keep the stock stuff so that in case you want to sell it you have the option of switching it back to stock. Make sure that the piping is done right so go and meet Anura at Tokimo's next to Japan Lanka in Delkanda he'll do it for you. The K&N with heatshield has a 3" inlet. So the initial piping that connects to it has to be 3" diameter, then it needs to reduce down to two inches where it connects to the MAF (Airflow sensor), you need to only redirect it upto the MAF as the balance piping is fine which leads to the throttle body. to connect the MAF to the fabricated piping get a silicon connector with stainless steel T-clamps. Also make sure that there are allowances, as in hole drilled for the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor and whatever other sensors or vacuum hoses are attached after the MAF, the IAT needs to attach to the pipe just after the Cone filter. Get the cone filter directed as close to you fender wall as possible, the colder the air the better. G'luck Cheers, porky

Hi, I had an Alfa 164 3.0 V6 24Valve sometime back as a car it is a very powerful car but it has its quirks and it would get problems regularly and unlike Jap cars which take a beating and keep ticking the Alfa tends to just shut down and not run at all. The dealer is very dodgy in Sri Lanka and only a few others know how to work on one. Parts are also hard to find and cost on average 35-60% more than equivalent Jap car parts. So though they are fantastic cars they have to have a good service agent or professional when things go wrong or you're in a tonne of trouble. The newer 156s and 166s are better than the old ones though the 155 twin spark with the timing chain is also quite OK. Stay away from the 164. The plasticky interior is also a detractor in the older cars. Resale values are low for exactly the reasons mentioned above. Cheers, Porky

They're right you won't get much gains unless you take it from the header. If you have the funds I can safely recommend a Borla system.

Hi Pericles, Yup the Nissan's make hardier engines any day, simply look at their Silvia (spec r), Skylines and 350zs and then compare to Honda's ....best...what the NSX? It maxes out stock at 160mph. Machang I am at Horton Place, Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Hey dudes, Ok a bit more on the non FB13...as according to WCC heheheh just joking bro He just got in a Fidanza lightened flywheel as he apparently didn't want to go with our susual lightening at the kade job and also a Alcohol injection system to allow for higher boost on stock internals. Cosmetically he's got the Recaros, an Eclipse 8445 CD head unit, JBL and Phoenix gold amps and 10 speakers from Dynaudio....oh yeah and last but not least a stillen short shifter, Rohith is doing something alo to his interior panels I got some pics check it: http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/8420/p10100084hq.jpg http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/1191/mike1hy.jpg Cheers, Porky The car's in Rohith's garage in Katana, if you go on a Sunday it take 45 mins from Colombo, suggest you call and go in case the bugger's not there. Cheers, Porky

Yes thanks, sorry to hear your VAFC messed up, I have noted some resetting errors on the Apexi units once installed, but the similar HKS one is more stable, also it depends on how the installation was done. The initial self learn processing is important. I had an issue once with a Nissan where once we had set it up the car was running very rough, kind of like it was choking, then I ran the diagnostic on it with the Dynotune and found the bloody thing was over 45% lean. This was due to the self learn mode not being completed so the loop was open. I took it off the power supply and reinstalled it and let it run again and the car runs awesome now. After letting it go like that for about two months we hooked it up to the Dynotune sensor again and did a rolling test, mainly due to lack of a dyno to test on here and slowly tweaked the parameters until the car was perfect. Now I am going to boost it with a custom turbo setup, and hope I can run low psi at least say 8-10 and use the same AFR to run stoich rich. Once stage 1 is done then I will proceed to stage 2 with a better cooling systems and send the ECU for a reprogram. Finally stage 3 will be the performance cams and possible ITBs. And yes Honda's engine blow like the mofo, you're better of with a Nissan SR16VE or SR20VE, trust me I have worked on both!

Thats all very nice.. but like you said "We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains" Also your fixing the AFC behind an ODB2 econo ECU.. the AFC only sends a pulse to the ECU and in most cases the ECU will over ride it with it's own mapping before sending signals to the engine.. sometimes the AFC can mess up the ECU's own mapping and you will find more loss than gain.. Speaking from unfortunate experience.. I have a decent experience or two up the sleeve on HKS and Apexi electronics and so far, though I prefer the HKS units the Apexi stuff hasn't given me any problems, of course it helps to have the proper AFR gauges to check air fuel ratios when tuning with these CPU driven chips. So far I have had and expreinced only gains, if required I can install an AFC for you and show you how it works for your advantage. As for engine seals, the if they are already not in a bad condition due to irregular oil changes and overrevving on low thermal viscous handling oil, they will hold up, even under boosted conditions upto 12psi. The Nissan engine block though not as refined as the Honda's is quite hardy and takes better to mods that say the Honda DX engine and even the b16a series OBD1 vtecs to a certain extent especially under boosted conditions where the vtecs start to falter. Cheers, Porky What Nissan engine block are you talking about here Porky? An SR surely?? you cant be refering to a 1300 N16 engine block "taking better to mods" than a b16a or even a d16y?? where did you read that? You'll have to expain that one better macho... still cant figure out where the 25-35 hp gains are going to come from Since this thread is for assistance on a 1300 cc Nissan QG13DE engine I was referring to the same engine, once more I have a few experiences on Nissans and not from just reading and this is why I had posted some options for the person who wanted to get some more power out of his car. In general Nissan blows less engines than Hondas...this is my personal experience though I do like the B16B and B18B engines. Once again the proof is in the pudding so all I say is give me a 1300cc EFi anything and I will get out the horses from it to pleasantly suprise the owner/driver. It is relatively easy to take a larger engine like the SR20s and get them put out more power especially by boosting, for me the challenge is working on the so called 'wimpy' cars and turning them into decent street racers and I am thoroughly enjoying that challenge thank you Chers, Porky

Hi, Firstly, very nice job on the Van, I have never to date seen one look like your and I must pas on my sincerest compliments. Rohith's work is tasteful and done exceptionally well On the topic of Rohith, I was at his garage last week to get an estimate for a bodykit and saw the Nissan mentioned above. Him and I had a long extended chat about it and I was thoroughly impressed with what the owner had done and was doing with it. I even took some notes to try and replicate the same with my car so I thought it would be nice to share with my fellow forum mates see below: As is now: JDM Nissan 200sx - spec R with GA15DE but higher displacement (1548cc) Custom Cold Air Intake with 3" K&N Cone filter with heatshield Walbro 255 lph fuel pump Stillen adjust FPR set at 50psi Pacesetter Performance header with heat wrap Larger 25" Nissan radiator with Nismo performance cap Custom 2" straight exhaust manifold with Borla Spitfire perfomance muffler HKS Super AFR Apexi power stabilizer unit with ground Stillen Truss bar ACT stage 3 clutch kit Progress Coilover lowered front and back 1.6" with modified camber and toe 16" Subaru wrx sti5 rims Roadstone Nexen 205/16 R50 ZR The owner is installing the following after Rohith get done: Nissan RB20DET twin ball bearing ceramic turbo with wg at 12 psi Custom SS T3 Turbo Manifold with heat wrap HKS Turbo dump pipe Custom 2.5" straight exhaust manifold Apexi TT Blitz ID3 boost controller SS Turbo oil and water lines Nismo 370 cc injectors Nissan Silvia Spec R MAF Reprogrammed ECU by JWT performance HDi Performance large Front Mount Intercooler (already installed) All aircraft grade T6061 aluminum IC piping HKS SSQV A/C Delco oil cooler - side mounted 3 Autometer single DIN mounted gauges Dyntotune Digital Air fuel meter with O2 sensor HID Zenon light kit Rear Stillen truss bar Can't ait to see it on the roads, man it is supposed to haul ass, currently has 150 whp and is expected to get around 270 bhp once boosted!! Cheers, porky

Hi, Thanks for the welcome much appreciated. As for the N16 mods, I don't think it will be an overweight issue as all those mods I have mentioned are very little in weight with the biggest weight contibutor being the muffler but that can be balanced by weighing the removed original and checking it against a comparable flow thru type. We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains, the AFC steps in where the ECU can't since an ECU will adjust only upto a certain point, unless it is sent for a reprogram. The standard pressure is somewhere between 35-38 psi by setting the adjustable VPC to 45 then having the AFC prior to the ECU this will bypass the ECU correction problem. The AFC will have upto 45psi on tap but will only release the required amount according to the MAF signal it receives, if it does not have the slightly higher fuel pressure available then it cannot richen as it needs more fuel for the larger CFM of air. The approximated gains mentioned above is on the assumption that all the specified mods for an N/A engine is correctly installed and tested. Once correctly programmed the AFC will adjust the injector pulse according to the increased airflow from the CAI thus giving the optimised ratios for increased performance. It also helps to do a running test with a good Dynotune AFR tester this will help in adjusting the AFC to optimal Stoich, this same principal can be applied to set it to Stoich-Rich if later going boost. As for engine seals, the if they are already not in a bad condition due to irregular oil changes and overrevving on low thermal viscous handling oil, they will hold up, even under boosted conditions upto 12psi. The Nissan engine block though not as refined as the Honda's is quite hardy and takes better to mods that say the Honda DX engine and even the b16a series OBD1 vtecs to a certain extent especially under boosted conditions where the vtecs start to falter. Cheers, Porky

Hi, Saw this thread and maybe I can offer a bit of help. Don't lighten the flywheel just yet instead see below: Replace stock intake with CAI and K&N heat shielded Filter Cost= Approx Rs. 5000 for CAI and Rs. 15,000 for filter Put 3 star petrol instead of normal crap Cost= Rs. 3500 for a full tank, will last u about 7-10 days Change the exhaust manifold to either a custom header or get one from JWT Tokimo guy in Delkanda will make a decent on from Stainless steel Cost= Rs. 15,000-35,000 (depending on local or imprt) Advance ignition timing (but only if are running higher octane fuel!!) to 12 degrees can be done at anyplace that has a timing light A*W doesn't (useless morons) D*MO's does Cost= Rs. 2000-5000 max Switch to NGK platinum spark plugs Cost= Rs. 5000 Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it at 45psi Cost= Rs. 5,000-10,000 dependning on brand Get a free flow muffler installed, u can get em for all prices from elcardo Cost= Rs. 6,000-10,000 Go in for a standalone air fuel controller like HKS Super AFR or Apexi SAFC2 but see if your ECU has the required pins for one, then set it on self leran...voila instant power Cost: Rs. 35,000-60,000 After all of these you can expect to up your total bhp by approximately 25-35 which should help you get across Marine drive a bit quicker....hehehehe Last but not least there is also the turbo option, for which I don't wish to get into unless you are really really serious. Hope this helps u dude cheers, porky