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Did a few try outs on an old panel, it didn't go that well, considering the health risk associated with fumes and dust, as it is at home and not well ventilated However thereby I decided to pause the project. And the weather ruined my free time @Kavvz- I mentioned before that I have no intention to sell off the vehicle, thanks however I will attemp this project once I acquire a decent location and a better ventilation setup Thanks for the help guys, please do keep dropping in ideas, as it will help us in some point of time, cheers

If you are talking about the heater lines going from the radiator ( engine bay pic would help) which heats up the element for the hot air / heater blower setup, (common setup in most vehicles, however not sure if its the same in the March) Yes this is sometimes done, multiple reasons, Reduce coolant volume?, Improve the Cooling component efficiency, faulty internals in the hot side, damaged pipes, previous owner preferences However this is a sign your car has been tampered with, so get your car checked for other bass related muck ups, such as Thermostat, Catalytic Converter, dodgy wiring etc Similar bypass setup in my LR long time ago, piping still intact, the engine was imported from the middle-east, no wonder they gave up heating !

I'd go with the Montero Sport, the engine is 4D56 based, and the true the chassis is derived from the Triton / L200 but has the advantages as well. Better ground clearance, off road performance, less complicated, easy to maintain and cheaper bits. In terms of comfort, due to the Live axle setup it will rattle your teeth off given the conditions, But the coils rather than pickup leaf springs help.

Yes, but made in Thailand to UK spec, not South African, AFAIK there is no difference

I use the PLX Kiwi wifi device, bridging OBD to WIFI on apple devices, I purchased this setup long before the bluetooth kits came, The software I use is dashcommand which I also a paid app, The thing with this setup is its 100% troublefree, connect anytime, and very fast, codes are read and translated then and there and can be cleared too I've tried OBD2 Bluetooth and both OBD2 usb, but they are troublesome and not user friendly For now my purpose is only Diagnosis so, I prefer that setup

Well, here goes my MAF sensor clean Vehicle: Toyota Hilux - D4D (Commonrail VGT) Agent: CRC CO Contact Cleaner (Rs.1090) Purchased from (http://www.fctsl.com/) - Services Highly recommended ( Admins feel free) Took the MAF out - Matter of removing 2 Philips screws, Pulled the plug out, (May vary due to Make, Model etc Temperature Probe on the out side The MAF sensor elements inside ( Before Cleaning) The agent; Information on the Canister Took out the O Ring After Cleaning I sprayed upto 5 times as you can see the sensor is quite clean already While spraying, I let all the excess pour out, repeating roughly every 5 mins Let it dry for about 2 hours and put it back DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING EXCEPT FOR THE PLASTIC BITS, Wiped all the plastic bits clean, I had used the car earlier that day and left to cool for over 2 hours, Results: The results were not immediate The car started rough, engine check was ON ( I was petrified) Upon scanning the codes corresponded to High MAF values and Low Intake Temperature values However the Sensors were working perfectly, Idle - 8-12g/s MAF on Throttle 100-180s g/s MAF and Intake Temp 31-32c Took it for a normal spin, halfway to the trip, the ECU cleared the codes, The Check engine light turned off, Now the car Pulls much better, visually cleaner emissions, and most noticed, a much smoother idle, Used for almost 150km today and no issues Thanks a lot for your valuable advice Rumesh88, Vishkid Hope this is of use to someone!

Thanks a lot for the suggestions guys But this appalling weather is ruining my plans

Thanks for the reply guys, I went to the company and purchased the CRC contact cleaner, will be attempting the job today and update the details tomorrow

Well I called them today and apparently they don't import CRC MAF CLEANER, but they do hold CRC Contact cleaner, which the staff member highly recommended, would this suffice? As this sensor is very fragile

Why don't you run an OBD scan first? that way you can rule out / localize the area where the damage is, maybe a faulty sensor too, If the damage is just a few wires spliced though etc a normal electrician maybe able to sort it out or safely shunt it. If the damage is extensive, ie: Wiring loom / harness damaged at multiple points / cut through / or damage to drive battery hybrid hardware, better to take it to Toyota and let them attend Rather unfortunate scenario though , all the best

Maybe a bit off topic, but may benefit us all, of course I'm all hands in for the 1KZ, I've heard the 2L-T is a mess, but some talk highly of it as it runs on a 2L base, can you please drop in an idea of the issues in it JC?

Yea thats why I mentioned Emperor, they came with PX-XXXX numbers, aren't they good enough? except for the in-vain auto transmission? A friend thrashes one regularly off-road, edit; Just checked they run above 3mil, my bad

Why not go for a Hilux surf/ Emperor? Best of both worlds

Thanks a million for this, tried contacting them today, didn't pick up, will try again on monday

What any relay does is, use a small current to control a larger current bearing circuit, The deal is presume these horns drag 7-10A to sound up. This current is directly pulled through the horn circuit, via the horn switch or any modern switch where there are tiny dot contacts that conduct the current. As you use along, these contacts burn up and wear off early, rendering the switch faulty, most oem switches are fairly expensive too. What the relay does is, it uses 0.5-1A to power up a coil electromagnet, which in-turn throws poles in a much larger switch inside the relay with bigger contacts built told hold larger currents, and relays are cheaper to replace too. As for your setup, most cars come without relays, the horn switch can manage the draw of the standard horns around 5A, if you have the stock setup, u don't need a relay, But if you are running larger horns (ex. Supertones, etc) Wire in a relay In general, adding relays saves the switches improves the current feed to the horn, lights etc The Hilux did not have a clicking relay, but the wiring diagram does show a complex setup, maybe Triac, but after using the relay the horn was faster to respond and noticeably louder.

Bringing up this thread again, Is there any local brand besides contact cleaner, if contact cleaner, could anyone recommend a brand? has anyone attempted this? My car just touched 40000km, has had a fair bit of dusty off roading without a snorkel, with stock intake setup. Would compressed air suffice? Websites recommend CRC contact cleaner, is this brand locally available?

Haha good, better hold on to them then,

Machan I recommend you install a relay, as these horns draw more more than the stock ones, you'll end up burning the horn switch contacts inside the steering wheel Remove the horns, press the horn switch, if you don't hear a relay click, you need to wire one in and draw current straight from the battery via a (15A) fused line Did this few years ago in one of my cars blindly, now it needs a new steering or the horn switch bits. Recently installed a Hella unit in my Hilux, took precautions with a relay, bought a Bosch relay separately.

May I add, a well Maintained X-Trail, as for fun, find a X-trail GT (SR20VET), pulls damn well with of course poor economy

On this note on Hybrids, I see that the Vezel does not take much of a beating by critics, or is it just me? (bias?) and personally i've seen that in the correct hands it does pull very well, better than the Pruis, the Aqua is hopeless, no experience with the insight. Other than the Hybrid drivetrain, it would be a very good SUV in its full form with the US engine (4wd ver of course)

If you like a low profile , try altec lansing, a 2.1 designed for Pc , it has RCA ports. Pc models are feasible due to their prices but in terms of quality and lifetime they make their mark. These aren't regular towers mind you.

The brand also makes a big difference, try to get oem or closest, Mitsuboshi is good for the older ones, recently I saw a belt change done in a swift, It disintegrated within one week, powdered bits all over the engine bay perfect pulley (thoroughly checked) and no more than adequate tension (checked by many people), they seem to be importing sub standard belts and scamming buyers The correct Tension also matters as I've personally seen an order of 21 Water pumps and belt kits (genuine) for 21 LR Defenders (Tdi) by the forces due to one faulty mechanic going overboard with the tension.

May I ask what the vehicle is? Newer vehicles have leveling switches with motors and unless u mess around the factory alignment pretty much is enough, plenty of guided articles on the net. As Bugatti said is it really worth it, a tiny job machan

Planning to do this under a Shed, about 15ft in height walled off partially, So what you are saying is they sand paper over the existing paint a bit, or rub it down to bare metal? Of course a mask is yet to be purchased Yes, I'm totally new to the nozzle bit, got hold of a dented door, thereby will try on that, then the abused rear bumper along the way, Makes me consider to simply go with the original color, The mica is pretty though The hideous weather is messing up my schedule My next worry is getting the roof sorted

Hi there, So As the topic says, I ve got hold of a compressor, and all the necessary bits, and a decent car with a tired looking paint job, and Few weeks upcoming free time and along with a few long weekends, if weather permits Before I attempt this project, Could the pros please help me with these questions? 1. Is it possible to add a coat on top of the current paintjob? Same colour code ( After correcting the imperfections of course and priming those small areas; thereby prior to painting it will be a mixture of the original paint scuffed + corrected primed areas) There is no clear coat on the car 2 Is it possible to apply a slightly different colour as a new coat over the existing paint? ex: Pearl White Mica over Plain White 3. A paint booth is not available, is it a must? I do of course know that scraping to the bare metal and priming then base coat is the ideal way, but the body is 99% straight (1997 YOM) other than day to day scratches here n there and tiny bubbling only in 1 spot But I have however seen my questioned method used in some garages. Also; this is intended to be DIY bucket list sorta thing and not a cheapskate paint job and i'm not planning to sell the car after a make do paint job, thereby assessing feasibility first and I can afford mistakes All comments and advice will be greatly appreciated Hope you fellas go a bit light on this one