AL998

I guess you are talking about a 1.8 manual 10 kmpl in Sl traffic is bit optimistic ,I'd say 7-8 to be on the safe side . if it is Auto then expect less than that . In general they are good 'value for money' cars , spare parts are cheep and reliability is better than French or Italian cars .But nothing close Japanese or German. Regarding quality and comfort its nothing compared to a VW,Audi or BMW but it will do your job . I used a 1997 diesel Mondeo for 3 years with no major problems .

Ford has very stiff steering comparing to other cars ,specially with Japanese .In my experience all European cars has stiff steering comparing to Japanese cars So it may not something wrong with the car

How much is the avg price for a EK2 and EK7 in these days? (we are talking about hatchbacks arnt we?)

I don't know the actual specifications of your car ,and I haven't worked with the model you said . but it sounds like a problem with the gear selector switch ,but again I can be wrong . best way is to use process of elimination to find the faulty part.

yes , If they want to make sure ask them to refer to the manual ,it has a explanation of all the warning lights You don't need a special tool to reset the service light ,normally you can do it with the trip meter buttons and the ignition. Correct procedure should be in the manual.

Perfect fitting for Citroen & Peugeot

If you do it all the time then it will do harm for the flywheel ring gear and starter motor ring gear . but few times wont hurt . It happens with me as well

I don't understand. If the ABS light is not on .then how can they say there is a fault on it ,'service light ' has nothing to do with ABS . Guess its one of their scams as harshan says. Ask them what is wrong with the ABS system ,if they say its one of the sensors then measure the resistance of the it and compare it with the good one . And if the car is late 2008 then it should be still under warranty isn't it?

If you buy a cheap one ,then you can test the accuracy of it by using on a vehicle which is running well.You shouldn't expect the same values from different cars but you can get a general idea. Plus You will be able to see any compression drop comparing to other cylinders even if the tool not highly accurate . If you are concern about the condition of your compression rings and worried that all 4 cylinders are leaking then you should do a "Cylinder leak down test " using a cylinder leakage tester .

I assume 'weda' was speaking about a diesel engine from what he said .Diesel engines needs an expensive tool to do a compression test comparing to a petrol engine .Plus it takes more time than a petrol engine to do as well .So If your engine is a petrol then you might be able to get it done for cheap. if garages are quoting more than 3000-4000 then why don't you buy a tool and do it your self. (assuming you have a petrol engine)

I have seen 3 RR's in Sri Lanka

If you are looking to buy VW auto then make sure to buy a car with JATCO box, which is a Japanese gearbox. There are cars with VW own auto box as well but them boxes are not reliable as jatco. in Passat VW own box comes with 4 FW comparing to JATCO is 5 FW, if I can remember correctly.

No need to degrease the engine bay , Aim should be to keep water away . High pressure water can bring harm to the electrical components . I think this must have been discussed this before So if someone really wants to clean the engine bay then best thing is to use a WD40 like 'Water displacement'. It will make sure to keep water away from electrical connectors . Hence no rust or oxidisation

What ever you do ,don't clean the engine bay with high pressure water ,If you really wan't to clean then use some WD-40 or equivalent and do it by hand .

Sounds like your fuel starvation to the engine as well ,either filter clogged up or the fuel cap valve is bad.

You are right here it will def burn more fuel . Regarding the power ,bigger is not always better .You have to find the right balance . If you increase the diameter of the muffler too much then it will allow air to flow slowly due to colder air and spoiling of exhaust pulses( when the car is running in low RPM ), hence more work for the engine .You will get bit of boost in the high RMP though. if you haven't done any mods with the engine ,then your stock exhaust will give the best economy.

I guess they are claiming those values from the motorway miles . Maybe you will get something nearer value when driving out station but certainly not in Colombo . I use to get 17-18KMPL from a Nissan march 1.3L outside SL ,while the same engine gave me 9-10 KMPL in SL. Even when I go out station it never went that high .Maybe something to do with fuel as well.

Hi all , I'm going to chip my civic and retuned by my self ,So I thought to start a journal here 1998 Civic 1.6 SOHC non Vtec D16B2 Estate with a Automatic tranny ,yeah it is an auto .That is one of the reasons I want to do this .Because not much people does that and I want to see how I end up . Uploaded with ImageShack.us Plan I will be carrying out all the work done in this project. Since this got a unchippable OBD2 ECU , I will be using a OBD2 P1K-E61 ECU.Which got OBD1 board inside. I don't have to use a conversion harness since both got EDM OBD1 type connectors . I had another ECU laying around which is a Vtec manual ,since it needs some modification I'm going to keep it in its original condition for later use. After I get the chipping done, I will be editing maps . Plus I will be using a toggle switch to switch between stock and new maps.Since I haven't done any modifications in the engine I can afford to do this. Not much of a help in this car but the concept is good with a Vtec manual tuned for extra power. Stock maps for daily use and bit of extra power when you need it . I am not after any more power since it is an auto anyway ,and it will not be possible get much increase in the fuel economy as well But why am I doing this ??? just for the sake of it ! Original ECU Uploaded with ImageShack.us New ECU Uploaded with ImageShack.us Since there is a Immobilizer board in the new ECU I will be replacing it with a dummy Immobilizer chip, which will bypass the immobilizer.I should be getting it in next week as well as other parts. all the de-soldering is done .That's it for now I will be updating with the soldering when I get my parts next week Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Yes you have a point !! As long as you drive safe and disciplined in the streets (without risking other peoples lives) , rest of us will not care how stupid you look with those lights. Most of the people who have those lights and ugly body kits drive like maniacs in the streets , Hope you will not do the same . Enjoy your life but drive safe .

There are several ways of above trick is done , Some people couple it with oil light or any other light which goes off after you keep the key ON position for several seconds. But this is easily catchable even without a scanner. Each and every warning light should go off off after very specific time . So if you check the time Air bag light is on after you turn on the ignition against the manufacturer specific info then you can easily catch this. The dirtiest Air Bag Trick [mods please remove this if this is inappropriate for this ] Unfortunately there is a another way of bypassing the air bag system,This will even fool a scanning machine . This is done by bridging the air bag wire with a resistor (if a certain bag is blown),I will not mention the certain Ohm values here in case someone wants to do this . This is even not catchable by a scanner . A scanner will check for the resistance of the circuit to determine the functionality of the air bag system .So by replacing an air bag with a resistor will keep the original resistance of the circuit . Unless you check it physically there is no way of detecting this

Thanks a lot for sharing the information. This is like gold dust for me .It is always difficult to find Manuals for Japanese cars ,Ela Ela keep it up

No machan , he was referring to the adjustment in the throttle body. If he hasn't checked the one on the pedal then its worth having a look before going to big conclusions .

Changing the ignition timing will not cure idle speed problem. If you haven't touched the distributor yet, then leave it alone. in some cars there is a adjusting screw in the accelerator itself ,this is one of the screws which holds the accelerator pedal.You will get these symptoms when that screw is loose.This is something lot of people do not think of ,but I have experienced this in the past .

It can do more harm to your engine than good, Unless your engine is badly effected by sludge ( sludge in oil lines etc) I would advise you against it. If you are worried about sludge, then remove the top cover and the sump clean it manually. Having said that I once had to use an engine flush because of badly effected sludge in oil lines , Which turned out to be a good result .

Fair enough