Jump to content


Top Contributors
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Community Answers

  1. Davy's post in Buying a civic fd1 that has clocked 200k km! was marked as the answer   
    200k km is nothing for a petrol engine. 
    Just make sure the mileage is genuine (it it weren't, I doubt it would be listed as 200k km, so it likely is genuine). Check emissions test certificates to be sure. 
    If the car has a verified maintenance history and is in good condition, then there's nothing to worry about. 
    Just do your usual checks before buying. 
    Good luck! 
  2. Davy's post in P0420 Hyundai Sonata H-matic was marked as the answer   
    Half a litre of oil being burnt per month is not normal. What's the mileage of the car? 
    My advise would be to fix the oil burning problem because in your case, I believe it is contributing to the P0420. From what you have described, it could be oil clogging up your catalytic converter (explains the exhaust smell) , or a gasket leak. 
    Even after the engine is fixed, you might continue to get the error code depending on the condition of the catalytic converter and downstream Oxygen sensor. 
  3. Davy's post in Range is not updated after fuel refill - Toyota Aqua 2015 was marked as the answer   
    I'm pretty sure the Prius manual says that adding a small quantity of fuel will not update the range. Not sure what "small quantity" means here, but I assume you need to add at least quarter of a tank for the system to update. 
    So try putting in a full tank of fuel and that should update the range. 
    As for shutting off the engine while refuelling, this is the right practice. 
  4. Davy's post in [Q] Toyota/Starlet radiator fan motor disassembly was marked as the answer   
    I've attempted to repair a couple of radiator fan motors when several garages said they need to be replaced. In all but one case, I was able to repair the motors successfully because they had failed due to worn out or stuck brushes.The failed attempt was because the coil was burnt, but even that I could have got it wound, but didn't bother because I found a recon motor for cheap. One of the motors actually belonged to @trinity.
    They're pretty straight forward motors, so with the right tools and with a bit of perseverance,  you should be able to do a good DIY reconditioning job on them. If you can take off the racers, you could use them as samples and get compatible ones from a spare parts shop and use them.
  5. Davy's post in Lancer EX vs Civic FD4 was marked as the answer   
    Already discussed. Search the forum!
    Also the BRATT thread if you want info about the EX
    Civic FD threads:
  6. Davy's post in [Q] Driver's side window not working after resetting the Power Window/Central Lock breaker was marked as the answer   
    Does this mean that other windows work normally when operated from the main (driver's door) switches? If yes, then pop out the master switch panel, flip it over, grab a multimeter and test the pins to see if it sends out a signal when the switch is operated. You might have to go through each pin if you don't have a circuit diagram around. If there's a signal, then open up the door, test voltage between the motor leads to make sure you get a signal.
    Have you tried calling the car something other than Shitbox to see if she responds?
  7. Davy's post in Suzuki Swift(2007/2008) vs Mazda Demio(2008/2009) and steering rack issues was marked as the answer   
    From the perspective of a Demio owner:
    1. If you did a search, you would have found the fuel economy of the Demio. It depends on your driving style so I'd say 10 km/l in the city average. The CVT version is slightly more economical. 
    2. The stuff that needs to be replaced on a car isn't really related to the year of manufacture. It depends on how the car was used (personal or commercial), how many kilometres on the ODO and importantly, the maintenance history. I'm not exactly sure how prices of spares of the two makes compare, but like the Swift, the Demio is a reliable car from personal experience. It has been nearly 3 years since the Demio in my family was purchased and we've done all the services on time + replaced a set of tyres and attended to a suspension repair once. The car has been doing about 40km a day for the past year or so. 
    3. I think all these rack issues depends on where and how the car was driven. Frequent drives on rough roads would cause the steering linkages to fail. I don't think the rack would need replacement if you attend to the suspension issues and get the steering links replaced before it gets worse and the rack is eventually affected. Our Demio was recently subject to a suspension repair and they could repair the rack without replacing it because it wasn't too far gone. I'm not surprised that a genuine rack costs that much, and if you call AM\/\/ and ask about the price of a Swift rack, I doubt the price will be drastically lower. If such a situation arises, you can even buy a reconditioned one for much less. Plus, you shouldn't be worried about replacing the rack of a car you haven't even purchased yet!
    The Demio thread in case you missed it. 
  8. Davy's post in What Are The Warning Lights Which Lights Before Ignition was marked as the answer   
    First of all, it's not an oil LEVEL indicator, but an oil PRESSURE indicator and is standard in pretty much any vehicle with an internal combustion engine.
    In your case, the indicator doesn't light up due to three main possible causes:
    1. Burnt indicator bulb
    2. Defective oil pressure switch
    3. Connection/electrical issue between oil pressure switch and indicator bulb or blown fuse
    It's most likely 1 or 2 IMO. Check fuses, bulb first.
  9. Davy's post in Engine Oil Change was marked as the answer   
    The W specification (Winter) is not applicable for tropical countries like Sri Lanka. So it shouldn't be a problem.
  10. Davy's post in Replacing Radiator And Handbrake Assembly Of Lancer Wagon was marked as the answer   
    Been seeing a lot of new topics by you about your A72 recently. Appreciate if you can start a restoration thread and share your project details and ask all your questions in that. Also, both questions you have asked have been discussed before. The radiator issue is a general problem while the handbrake self-adjusting mechanism is a known issue.
    I'll leave you to search (here's how) about the radiator problem, but you should go for a newly fabricated copper radiator from a place like Radiator House. That will last a lifetime. The radiator I had on my A27 was a newly fabricated one and I got it done from Radiator House as well. Got it done in 2003 or so, not a single leak until 2013 when I had to part with the car.
    As for the handbrake self-adjusting mechanism, this is a known issue for which there is no straightforward solution. I doubt you will find a used kit in good condition with all the bits and pieces in working order, because I did a clean sweep of Panchikawatte and even a bit of Kurunegala and Wadduwa etc. (back in 2010 or so), but I couldn't find one.
    In the end, this is what I tried:
    - Fill and cut (machine) the grooves in the handbrake mechanism so that the teeth would not slip (worked for a while, but not successful since it snapped and settled in the fully retracted position which made the rear brakes weaker)
    - Permanently weld the two halves together with a small welding tack in the middle position (worked for a quite a number of years. the only issue was that the handbrake lever needed to be pulled higher and higher as the liners wore out)
    - Replace the entire rear brakes with one from a Lancer Box (ultimate solution. Existing brake cylinders were used because The Box had smaller cylinders due to having disk brakes in the front.)
    My recommendation would be for you to go for a Lancer Box brake mechanism (dial and everything). If you can't find one, you can try the first option of filling the grooves and cutting them. The guy who did mine messed it up, otherwise I think it would have worked for a long time.
    Oh and no, brake shoes are sold on their own and doesn't come with the adjustment mechanism.
    Read more in the following posts:

    - http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15985-my-a72-build/page-3#entry262900
    - http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15272-disk-brake-conversion/#entry243056
    - http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13719-1979-lancer-a72-restoration/page-4#entry213864
  11. Davy's post in Power Window Issue. Auto Mode Not Working - Premio 240 2002 was marked as the answer   
    Was your car battery replaced recently? The power window system bulbs flash when the system has been disconnected. If I remember correctly, It needs to be reset by pulling each power window switch up and holding it for 5 seconds while the ignition is on.
    Maybe someone on the forum who has done this can let you know the exact procedure.
  12. Davy's post in Sat Nav (Gps) Help was marked as the answer   
    A popular brand in Australia is GARMIN. It's now in Sri Lanka and you can check them out here:
    I have personally used one for about 6 months on my cousin's car and I never missed a turn. Easy to use and they do provide map updates frequently (can simply plug into the PC and update). However, I'm not exactly sure about the quality of maps for Sri Lanka, but I believe they wouldn't be selling the product if the maps were not good. Hope someone using one of these can comment on how good they are in Sri Lanka.
    What I use currently is my trusty old Anroid phone with Google Maps.
  13. Davy's post in Need Your Advice Please - Allion 240 was marked as the answer   
    The agent probably quoted that figure because the unit is sold as the entire shift lever mechanism or as a kit that includes the indicator panel. This is usually the case.
    The part maybe shared with many other Toyota vehicles (Premio, Corolla, Camry etc.), so it might easier to locate it locally than you think. If you are ordering from eBay, make sure you check that the indicator plate is for the right hand driven model (because this part maybe used on other left hand driven cars as well). Amayama is not a problem since you can select the region (Japan).
    Yes, Amayama ships to Sri Lanka. The exact part number is: 35921-20470 according to this.
  14. Davy's post in Front Wheel Heating Problem was marked as the answer   
    A brake bind occurs when air trapped inside the brake system expand as the brake system heats up. As a result of the expanding air, the brake pads/shoes are pushed towards the rotor/drum thus producing friction among the two surfaces. This produces heat. It's like driving while keeping your foot on the brake pedal the whole time.
    The front brakes heat up quite a bit, especially on a front wheel driven vehicle and even more on a front wheel driven automatic. To determine if your brakes are actually binding, you can do the following test.
    - Drive the car about until you feel like the brakes are starting to bind
    - Jack up one of the front wheels
    - Making sure that the handbrake is in place, put the car into neutral
    - Try spinning the front wheel by hand
    - Repeat with other front wheel
    If you could spin the wheel normally, then your brakes are probably okay. If the wheel refuses to spin and seems to be locked in place, your brakes are binding. There are other reasons for the wheels to lock up besides a brake bind caused by air bubbles in the brake lines. A stuck brake caliper also might be an issue.
  • Create New...