leyland

It cost 2000 bucks for my dad's IST (1.5l) registered last week, but charges may vary depending on engine capacity and/or weight.

No, it shouldn't take that long. For new regs, I got mine the next working day after registration (This was in April this year). However, had a load of trouble last year (November) trying to get the plates for my Viva and finally after a month waiting and not receiving any favorable response from Un*mo, I decided to personally go to the RMV to find out what excatly happened. As it turned out, the RMV had made the number plate the day following registration, but it was missing and Un*mo claimed they did not receive it. So spoke to the guy in charge of the number plate section, and he assured me that he would investigate the issue and asked me to call him in 2 days. (his mobile number is displayed at the counter and anyone can call him if there are disputes). So called him 2 days later and he confirmed that they had located my plates and guess what the guy from A*W had taken my plates thinking it was one of their plates. I told the RMV guy to had over my plates to the Un*mo guy once they receive it from A*W and I got my plates the next day. While I was at the RMV sorting this mess out, saw a lot of people with broken/damaged plates coming there to replace them and thats how I got a bit familiar with the process and from what I saw, if you have the right connections, you could get it replaced the same day or worse case you should get it the next day.

The number plate charges for a new registration is Rs 1250/-, so I guess replacements will not cost much more than that. You can go to the RMV @ Narahenpita and get a new set of plates after paying the fee and returning the old faded ones.

Actually this is what I was referring to: http://www.thebottomline.lk/2011/06/26/motorist7.html So, I guess we can expect Un*mo to start bringing the Myvi as well??

I saw on a sunday newspaper that Un*mo has launched the Myvi and that the first 5 cars were handed over at a ceremony. Can anyone confirm?

All this contaminated petrol issues reminds me of that Tintin classic - Land of Black Gold!! At least we don't have exploding engines as in the comic to contend with...

Have to agree with Sifaan here. After reading through this thread and since my tank was also almost empty, I decided to stop at Laughs Koswatte (this is Thalangama Koswatte btw) and contrary to a previous post all their pumps were working and while they confirmed that some sheds had got the contaminated stuff, they assured that petrol in their storage tanks are ok (both 90 and 95). Also there were quite a big queue at the shed (around 7.00pm) and to be on the safe side, decided to pump 95 Oct and pumped 3k worth of 95 oct petrol and got home without incident (about 5kms from the shed). Fingers crossed for the run to office tomorrow morning Hoping and praying for the best

Is Bernie aware of a country called Sri Lanka?

Well, I'm about to sell my Viva not because of any issues with it, but because I got the opportunity to upgrade to a bigger car.(Mods: Not trying to advertise on the forum, already found a buyer ) Used it for about 7 months without any issues. Had a Kelisa before this also bought from Un*mo and used it for 4 years and the only maintenance I had to do was the regular service and a tuneup after about 3 years, so getting 5 years out of the Viva should not be an issue. Just remembered that the front-left shutter stopped working within the first year on the Kelisa, took it to Un*mo and they confirmed it as an issue with the main power shutter control unit on the driver side door on that batch of Kelisa's, since the car was under warranty, they replaced it FOC.

It probably should be similar if not same since Genuine Honda CVT oil is manufactured by Nippon oil as mentioned in the bottle.

Have to agree....had the same issue in my Viva as well...

The Viva Elite has 3 variations Standard Manual Standard Auto Premium Auto The last time I checked (abt 3 weeks ago) the price of the Standard Manual was 14.95 and Standard Auto was 15.95. Not sure about Premium auto price, but generally its about 200k more than the Standard Auto. The only additional stuff in the premium are ABS, Airbags, Rear spoiler and winker mirrors. While the premium is the better option from a safety standpoint whether the extra 200k it costs is worth it, is up to you.

Have to agree with zerocool on my SLT 1M line as well, although online gaming isn't my thing. It was really crappy about a year and a half ago, but for the last several months or closer to a year, it has been delivering as advertised.

There is a special revenue license for these garage numbers, its called "වෙළඳ බලපත්‍රය". I got copy of it when I bought my car a few months ago from a car sale. I think these plates and licenses are issued to an organization/imports/agent etc and not to individual vehicles per se since most of the cars at this sale including the one I bought had the same C11-XXXX number. This guy photocopies the red plates and uses it on all his vehicles, so when it was time to take my vehicle home, he gave me 2 copies of the plates, a certified copy of the revenue license, a certified copy of an insurance certificate under the C11 number and another form certified by him that should be filled everytime the vehicle is taken out of the garage. The form has info on Origin, Destination, departure time, estimated arival time etc. He told me that I could drive around as long as I filled this form prior to leaving and if I'm stopped by cops to show them these docs and to call him if the cops make an issue out of it!! Anyway, I only had to use it for 2 days over a weekend until I got my regular number and plates, and I wasn't stopped by cops in the meantime. As for the number that starts with C11, i think C stands for 'Commercial' and 11 refers to the year (2011). Last years numbers were C10 I beleive.

This engine has VVTi

According to Honda, and the same exact testing process(10.15), my car should do 24.5 kmpl although its a bigger more powerful engine. (1300cc, 73kW) http://www.honda.co.jp/Fit/webcatalog/ecology/ But for the past few months I've had it, it has been doing exactly 10.7 kmpl (as displayed in dash) on my office runs!! So, I guess we can reasonably assume that if I had a Belta with a 1KR, it would do even less on my office runs. So much for the fuel efficiency of 1ltr engines I rest my case.

Basically its one centralized system developed by eChanneling, and even Mobit*l offers this as a service IIRC. So it does not matter which medium you use to access it (eChannling.com, use your mobile if your operator offers it as a service or go to the hospital and get an appointment) you would getting the next available number. If you use your mobile, the operator (Dial*g, Mobit*l etc.) would charge a premium rate for the call in addition to the other charges (Docs fee, Hospital Fee, Channeling Fee). If you are a prepaid user, you need to make sure you have enough credit to cover these charges.

Sifaan, You could also try translating those 2 docs using this site for free. You need to have JRE installed and manually select the source language as French since auto detection may take a long time. Also, depending on the size of the pdf, the translation may take about 5 - 10 mins, so be patient It will save a translated pdf in the same folder as the source file with a .en suffix added to the original filename. I managed to successfully translate the jap manual of my Honda Fit using this site although its not 100% perfect, its better than trying to figure out japanese or french in your case. http://www.onlinedoctranslator.com/translator.html

Its generally referred to as Fast Idle. This is normal until the engine warms up.

Do you get synthetic and non-synthetic (mineral) versions of the same standard spec (i.e. Dexron III etc.) when it comes to ATF?? I'm asking because I have not come across such an option when it comes to ATF. Thanks.

I've had experiences with Toyota 3L(Hiace), 2C(Townace) and Isuzu 4JB1(Trooper) engines where we've had to drain the water. All of them were in the engine bay integrated to filter housing. So I guess its more to do with make/model rather than yom.

Generally, its in the same housing as the filter isn't it? At least on pre-2000 diesels with a manual hand pump on top? Anyway thanks for the heads up

Since it is a auto, have you changed the AT Fluid as well? If not you should try that first!

They indicator that you have tagged as "1" is the indicator that warns you of excess water collected in the diesel filter. Normally if this indicator stays on when the engine is running, you need to drain the excess water from the diesel filter and its a simple job AFAIK and a DIY if you know what you are doing. As for the electronics part of you question, I'm not an expert so hopefully someone else can help you out. However, generally the ABS light will come on when you switch on the ignition and go off after a few seconds or after the engine is started if it is operating normally.

Since you are looking for some places close to Kandy, try a drive down Gampola road....IIRC there were some some places that dealt with used engines/trannys and body parts close to Geli-Oya. My dad once bought a autobox for his trooper from somewhere around that area although this was a good 3-4 years ago... Edit: Didn't realize this thread was a couple of months old....but anyway, if it helps....