jsw

The only place anyone should be recommending you do this is at the Nissan agent where presumably they have trained technicians who know how to replace airbags that have deployed (i.e. activated). I cannot stress this highly enough but do NOT attempt fitting one yourself unless you absolutely know what you're doing. If you're asking the question here (do I just plug it in?) you should not attempt it. Airbag modules need to be handled with extreme caution as they can be set off just by ESD (electrostatic disharge) at the pins and so must have the pins shorted out till the very last second it is plugged in to the wiring loom. You can be hurt *very* badly if you don't take extreme care to ensure no voltage (static or otherwise) is applied to the connector's pins & it blows in your face. Good luck! PS If you're curious to know exactly what's involved, download the workshop service manual for any recent car and have a read through the pages dealing with airbag replacement and disposal.

Good advice although a driver's reflexes usually has other ideas in the heat of the moment. Also, if your ABS is functioning correctly there'll be no screeching of tyres.

No bigger rims/tires means you're actually covering more ground per revolution of the axle i.e. going faster than indicated by the speedo (the speedo being driven by a sensor or cable attached to the output shaft of the gearbox).

Not exactly - it’s a common misconception that Mac OS X derives from Linux. They may look superficially similar but OS X is a descendant of the venerable BSD line of Unix and Mach (the OS kernel that formed part of Jobs’ NeXTSTEP OS).

Hi just curious to know how you measured the frequency of the tacho wire. Thanks!

Any idea what the deal is with taxes payable when importing your own car from overseas (as in your situation: RHD petrol 3.0L or higher that's under 5 yrs old and has been registered in your name overseas for over x years)? I seem to recall the SL govt had some tax concessions for professionals who wanted to return to SL bringing their car with them.

It is not unknown for surplus OEM stock to enter the market via various channels from time to time. An OEM products grey market does exist in some areas. You just have to be careful to tell them apart from the cheap knockoffs that flood the market.

While there's many an opinion on ways of curing yellowed headlamp lenses, if anyone's interested in actually preventing it from happening in the first place the following info may be of some use. A lot of modern cars (roughly 90s onwards) now come with some variation of polycarbonate lenses rather than glass. When replacing the original bulbs in these headlamps be sure to go for ones marked as being UV-cut or UV reduced as the ultraviolet content in ordinary halogen bulbs causes polycarbonate lenses to go yellow or cloudy. This is also the reason why one should never, and I mean absolutely never, use anything abrasive (brasso, sandpaper *shudder*) on polycarbonate lenses as that will only exacerbate the situation (headlamp manufacturers apply a UV-cut coating on the outside to protect the lens from the UV in sunlight). Just be sure to never fit non-standard (higher wattage) aftermarket bulbs, stick with the correct UV-cut bulb and you won't go wrong. Obviously none of the above applies to the older glass lensed headlamps.

All you boys and girls who laugh at the term 'winker mirror' (not saying I don't myself ), have a squiz here: http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com/catalog-detail.php?ID=7224 http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/parts/2882260/ Here I was like the rest of you marvelling at the kooky descriptive names we Lankans come up with when in fact 'winker mirror' turns out to be the correct 'JDM' term

Can you get a mini mole-wrench (aka locking pliers) in there? You'd have to be ever so gentle though or you'll end up even worse off than you are now.