67Dodge

Hi All, does anyone know where to buy AN type fittings for fluid lines?. im looking into re-doing my lines the whole 9 yards with AN fittings/braided lines ect. i tried punchikawatte but the places i asked were clueless about it. anybody run into this same problem or have any info on it? i wouldnt mind any info on a decent guy to make custom hydraulic lines & fitting either

interesting topic... i wonder if anyone has gone this route.. some personal exp might be benificial if shared. for ex:- what proof does the RMV reqiure before issuing these permits? do you just produce the reg book/doc as physical proof? or do you have to show/produce evidence of the chassis &/or the state/condition of the body which is to be replaced.?? or is it just an over the counter type of dealio?

this is true for certain conditions only though as i recall. The application of faradays laws is limited to continuos DC only is it not?. Adding a PWM signal &/or a stepped ramp signal as an output is one exg of where LPM increases have been noted & the law isnt applicable, so no rules are broken.

you know more than you let on dude --> when you mentioned Ignition timing =P ... i didnt see anyone post up a Q on that in the thread... How did you tackle the ignition timing btw? how much ignition retard did your engine need? I cant figure out how they work on EFI engines though with the O2 sensors though. what would really be interesting is if you had reading from an EGT to compare along with a wideband O2 sensor btw, 800ltr/pm? are you sure? thats a huge #!! im assuming yours is a dry-cell? how many plates?

Catalyst was the wrong word. My bad.

see the thing is, ICE combustion inefficiencies are pretty much an accepted norm. we waste a good chunk of available power as the mixture continues burning in the exhaust system. The basic premise of HHO is that it has a significantly faster burn rate, this in turn can act as a catalyst to quickly burn the standard Fuel/Air mixture. actually, the same catalysing effect on the burn rate can be archieved by replacing HHO with H2. Google --> Hydrogen Enhanced Combustion

Hi Nana, interesting post. A couple of Questions, 1- A '99 prado is an EFI engine right? how did you get around the O2 sensor issue? (reading too much O2 in the emmissions as a by-product of HHO combustion & dumping more fuel in?) 2- Whats your HHO output like?(ltrs/min?)

i would like to answer that, but i myself am still reading up on coated TB's. other forums state they use "Rubbing Alcohol" (which is esssentially similar to local surgical spirit). read up a bit on the differences a bit more before you try it though.

Congratulations, you have fully crossed over to behaving like an Insolent Child strange, to anyone following this thread, this statement definitely sounds more logical when applied to you. by now it looks like you've lost your "Im a Respected AL MOD.. i can use my Get-Out-Of-Jail-Free" card. that must sting. Do yourself a favour.... 1-Dont post up on my threads unless you got something constructive to add. 2-Dont demean the rest of the AL MODS with your behaviour.

My my pericles, i do believe it was you who came out swinging with the "Snark" .... not me. dont tell me you can only dish it out and not man up & take some? or better yet, be gracious enough to accept that you were wrong?

I wouldnt begrudge a reply to a Mature Response, you've considered the possibility exists of a coincidence despite instances to the contrary, instead of the "Shoot 1st ect..." attitude shown by the prev mod. yes , i did answer my own question. Why? because i chose to give him a chance to prove he wasnt a complete tool in this instance.his own admission leaves little left to counter this unfortunately. Good stuff if the goal is the lowering of collective opinion of AL forums & All its mods. & as to your own querry, sylvi suggested the 3M in his post not me. If i was a 3M agent on a guerilla marketing campaign, would i leave this to chance that someone would hopefully throw 3M out there to build on it? or is it an assumption that me & Sylvi are in cahoots? also, a well reahearsed sales pitch would suggest more than simply 2 posts dont you think? Neither of these really matter to me, but FYI, i assume your on the classic car search SL FB page? a quick "3M" search coupled with the timelines involved with Pericles Nobel award wining "Observation" aught to give you enough to reach a definitive answer. ill throw this in just for kicks. http://www.jeepgarage.org/f183/2005-4-7-throttle-body-cleaning-tips-56449.html You know the really sad part? what i hoped would be an informative thread for a DIY'er has become......... this.

glad thats firmly established. any reason as to why you went the snide route? or is it simply your nature?

really? because it seemed like it had the makings of a snide remark.

Sadly, no... its in my bucket list though,

This "one Week" timeframe youve so graciously highlighted, is not acceptable to you is it?

Wow,... a thread about a simple Question, yet most of the responses are personal attacks. seems to be a trend here. To anybody actually interested in the Topic, i used 3M Throttle body cleaner. works fantastic. Its safe for coated throttle bodies too. cost is 1500Rs. If you've got a high mileage vehicle with a PCV or EGR inlet into the intake, give it a try. the accumilated gunk is scary,

Hi all, im looking for a good Throttlebody cleaning compound. any recommendations & where do you get them from? thanks!

ok this is gonna be a long reply, so apologies in advance. there is no minimum CC limit as stated here on the thread, since your looking at limits, you will have a lower limit for the SC to be compatible with your chosen engine. SC's are primarily classified by CC's of air moved per rev of the SC. lemme give you an exg of a situ i came up with recently, i got hold of an AMR500 SC from a nissan march pretty cheeep on an impulse buy which i wanted to couple to a C240 diesel in my jeep. but once i started out on the math, it quickly became apparent it was a bad idea. this SC revolves 500cc of air per rev. (Revs have a upper limit of ~ 16k rpm) @ 2 crank revs per 4 stroke cycle, one rev of the C240 requires 1200cc of air, meaning, my sc would need to be overdriven 2.2:1 just to fulfill the normal air requirment. so using this as a baseline, you can target your desired boost levels. again, this particular calc is not starighforward as it needs to include compressor efficiencies at target RPM ranges. this overdriven ratio also limits max engine revs possible. given this base data, i decided against it, Cuz if i had gone ahead with it, i would be pushing the SC's limits, only to produce a minimal (around 5Psi by my calc's) amount of boost, on top of the intensive labour needed fab-up everything. would have been a different case entirely if it was mated to a 4 stroke 750CC engine though, =P long story short, on a Supercharged Engine build, a bigger SC is better if you can get one, (obviously a perfectly matched engine- SC combo is the best, but im assuming that is not the case) btw, readup on this article: http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=110116 best of luck to ya!

anybody check out the 4x4's out front at the motorshow? the last 4 4x4's had a portal axle assembly. would love to get more info on where they dug up those axles.

well, it needs to be Static & Dynamically balenced, that will sort out any & all balencing concerns. as for warping, well thats a pretty good point actually, i ended up trueing up the weld-surfaces using wide jaw C-clamps clamping down on a piece of bar stock on bothsides to hold it together, worked pretty good actually. i will still have to check for runout once its finished though.

Sylvi, yes good points, i had thought about rigging a small rolling jig to do exactly that, but ultimately, it boiled down to a cost Vs time factor for me to consider. one additional thing to consider in my case is the metal thickness, @ 4mm, a continous weld will cause the metal to warp unless i had gusseted it. To be honest, it doesnt look too bad. my friend took his time & did a pretty good job on it. as for the airbubbles, well, i have to rely on my friends welding skill & the yet to do NDT.

The parts all laid out before welding up. her is a shot of the 1st rim after welding it back up. its now 10"x15", only the centers need to be attached, havent decided yet if im gonna weld it or have it bolted. need to clean it up & do a Dye-penetrant test, & i shoud be good to go.

nice list, what abt the VW golfs (still plenty) & Pug 205?

on this topic, what is the law regarding "Stretching" the WB of an old donor car? ive heard conflicting info on this. when i called the RMV to ask this once, the guy on the phone said its possible, but need to bring in the vehicle to go through the weighing Proc 1st.