LancerL

Hi Rumesh88 Thanks a lot for the quick and detailed explanation, really appreciate it. Since the gasket was in good condition, I guess that has been properly sealed. I was so busy and couldn't have look on it. Let me update the status ASAP. Thanks

I visit the garage yesterday and check all mounts, all were OK. When I was complaining about the morning vibration they removed the EGR valve again and cleaned (I didn't mentioned that I did the same earlier) I asked the guy to check it is working properly and he connected the power connector keeping the EGR on his hand and asked me to put the ignition, but it didn't work, then he took 12V car battery and try to make it work giving supply to it's pins and that way either it didn't work. His final conclusion was that this works only for ECU pulse and not for 12V supply and only in cold start :speechless-smiley-019: and he fixed it back immediately with applying grease to the seal instead of any silicone or a gasket sealer. Then he removed intake pressure sensor and cleaned and fixed back with a ECU reset by battery terminal. Since the engine was hot I could not check the situation on yesterday, but will keep posted the status with today evening cold start. Also I have couple of questions on EGR. 1. EGR should function with the ignition switch when hot or will operate only when cold. 2. Why it didn't work for 12V supply, does that works with only ECU pulse? if not has it burned? 3. Can morning vibration could be due to this, if EGR is the culprit? 4. Applying Grease as a sealant ? Expecting your valuable advice. Thanks

There is a coolant line coming to under the dash for the heater purpose where you need hot air from A/C when your are at Nuwaraeliya or somewhere cold. That's the line you are referring, and it might be still leaking and that could be the reason to drop in coolant level. Why you don't see the leak is that it drops in to the floor board and goes under the carpet where you don't have any visibility. What I advice is before do anything else, visit an interior cleaning place or a carpeting place and raised your carpet under the dash up to front seats level and check for any remaining coolant underneath. If you don't see anything, run the vehicle for couple of days and check for coolant drops under the dash after each run (Coolant start leak when the car is hot and not in cold) and make sure you use a color coolant and not water unless you cannot differentiate it from A/C water drops. Good luck

Thanks a lot for the input Rumesh88. Yes, last night I did this when the engine was hot and I get a slight vibration in around 1200RPM. So that sound it is bad engine mount Is there any other way that I could verify the same? I mean jack-up the engine before start or something like that.

All 8 spark plugs has been replaced last week. Not check the fuel pressure. If low fuel pressure or one/more coil pack bad, then the same should happen when hot too?

EGR cleaned and refitted with ECU reset. But no luck still the vibration comes at engine warming up idle. Also I have observed one thing extra is that I kept my hand on top of the plastic cover of the engine and try to feel how it goes on engine, while the steering and dash vibrating from inside the car. How it sense me was that there are no brakings on it and it was a continuously beat, no shaking or other hesitations. If I recall my old car, that too had the similar beat and fell on top of the engine (But I never got such vibration on the dash or seats) If this happens all the time, I would agree that could be a bad mount or more, but why the hell I get this only in warmup process? :sport-smiley-027: :sport-smiley-027: Appreciate your feedback and support

Thanks, I'm planing to remove and clean the EGR valve today and a ECU reset. Will keep posted. Can this be cleaned by a normal throttle body cleaner?

Yah, it goes up about 2000 and comes down as normal. Only issue is that the vibration comes in at that time, specially if the A/C is on

Yes gear engage is normal, I get this in P and N too. That mean no gearbox interaction ryt?

I did a tuneup last weekend including below. 1. Replaced 8 Spark plugs with all new NGK BKR6E 2. Removed and cleaned 4 injectors in a injector cleaning machine and observed fine spray patterns. 3. Cleaned throttle body, Idle Air Control Valve and Mass Air Flow Sensor. Even after all when I start the car I got the same vibration on to steering wheel. So the mechanic checked and said that the gearbox mount is bad and been re bushed by someone and suggest to replace it. So I replaced the same which cost Rs. 3,900/- and felt that the issue is OK(By this time the engine was pretty hot and I didn't get any vibration as well) and the fuel consumption was amazing as I got about 16Kmpl in the dash meter. earlier it was like 10-12. But in next day morning when start I got same vibration again as usual and gone away when engine gets hot. I'm so disappointed with this now and can't think of what could be the reason. Even yesterday I had a drive and it was the same experience. Guys any idea on the matter.

Can you please PM me this place. How is the reliability of the work, mine is EPS rack will they undertake similar jobs?

Not really, once the engine worms up I wont get this! but I get the usual FIT Aria vibration in D with brake pressed. Yes I mean on cold startup if I put to D or R the vibration get worst. CVT change 200Kms back, Tuneup I'm not sure when the previous owner did.

Thanks for the quick response PerfMad, do you also experience similar vibration in cold start? If this is due to mounts can that be happen only in cold start. 10K for all the mounts or just one mount?

I get huge vibration on my FIT Aria at each cold start when the car is in P or N, if I put it do D or R vibration will go up (Could be as the load coming), this will stays about 3-4 mins and goes away slightly. This comes only in cold start and there is no vibration in hot start as the engine is very smooth and silent when hot. What could be the possible cause and from where I have to start Thanks

I went to a place in Dehiwala referred by a forum member and after a test drive he recommend to replace CVT oil and the problem will disappear. Brought 4 canes of 1Ltr CVT from agents cost me 8,100/- and replaced at his garage. Yes he was right now no more vibrations/Jerks in acceleration. Thanks for the input guys..

About 10,000Kms back and used only Honda CVT from all the time.

Hi Experts Writing this after having a in depth search on the forum regarding the above and ended up with no clue. I just brought a FIT Aria 2003 GD8 with 7 speed tiptronic and having a issue in slight vibration comes when accelerate from 0KMPH in D (Not a hard acceleration, just a normal pickup) for about second or two and goes away, also a slight vibration in D with brake pressed. Apart, having some jerks in once in a while when climbing down with engine brake in D. When I show this to agents (I wont mention as everyone knows) they suggest me to replace the Gearbox with a recon one and they quoted 90,000/- with only 3 days warranty. 1. Can somebody please tell me a good place to repair this. If possible what will be the expected cost. (Repairing will be better as you know what is in rather a closed recon one) 2. If repairing not possible, a good place to get the replacement done with a decent warranty and the cost for it. Thanks

Hi Machan Don't take that road. The road condition is not that good and sometimes you have to keep waiting about 20mins to get your lane clear as it is single lane on construction slots. Even some parts of the main road is also very bad and old carpet has damaged. Better you take alternative way to drive in peace of mind. LancerL

Went to the garage yesterday and the conclusion by them was, this is due to loosen springs in the clutch plate. When engine getting hot these springs reduce their tension and start making noise. I'm not too sure about the statement and they said nothing to worry and I can continue with the sound until the clutch replacement as it is point less of removing the clutch only due to this. Is this ok to run like this? Will this damage any other parts such as Flywheel or Bell housing? Experts please help.

First of all my apology in late posting. Ultimately I found the root cause of the issue which makes me stressed! Since the above attempt did not successful, I went to the garage again. This time also they recommend me to replace the nylon “Grommet” (The correct name of it - Found on Internet) with a Teflon made one. So I went to a lathe work shop again and got it lathed and fixed in to the Master cylinder by them itself. Garage people has put some silicone to seal it and installed the reservoir tank. After couple of days, again I observed that one of the nylon "Grommet" is leaking. This time I decided to not to go to the garage anymore and fix this by myself. I felt that no more Teflon/Nylon “Grommets” will not solve the matter. After Googling a while, found that the ideal/original one will be a rubber made one which resist on Brake fluid. Ring few spare part shops and everybody said they don’t have it and only comes with the full pump kit. When I called the Lathe shop, they also didn’t had any Brake Fluid resistant rubber. So I decided to go to Panchikawatta to fine a used one as I have the old master pump which was removed some time back, which will help me to find the correct size without removing the one fixed at the Car right now. After visiting couple of recon part shops in “Waththa” beside to the bridge, one shop owner volunteer to remove and give it from one of the old master pump which was hanging on his shop, as everyone else refused to sell only the “Grommet”. He found the exact size by looking from outside with his experience and the Caliper verified the same measurement. So I asked him how much he need for this and he quoted Rs. 1,500/- just for two tiny rubber Grommets. I felt that he is trying to take the advantage out of situation and I told him that this is way too much as it was just Rs. 400/- to lathe the same from Teflon. Then he jumped down the price to Rs. 1,000/- but my bid was Rs. 700/- and I return back since there were lots of similar shops around and had a feeling that will find one for a reasonable price. Soon after the next shop I got in has directed me to a brand new spare part shop near Ajan*tha Moto*rs who had the same for just Rs. 150/- each so the total was Rs 300/-. (Check last couple of pictures) Removed the entire Master pump/tank by myself and fixed new “Grommets” by replacing Teflon made ones. Pushing the tank to the pump was a bit difficult task with new Grommets, but managed to get it done after struggling about 30 minutes. Sanded the Brake Booster outer cover and around the area against the slight rust due to leaking of Brake fluid and washed with clean water. After the area completely dry, applied couple of thick coats in black “Metal Primer”. Covered the area with couple of clothe pieces to protect the new primer from excessive fluid dropping. Installed pump unit back to the car and fill brake fluid little by little without connecting brake lines to get air out of the compression chamber. Once fluid start coming out of holes, fixed up the lines and released air by paddling method. I could not take photos in DIY job as Brake fluid was all around my hands. It’s more than a month by now and observed no leakages and in perfect condition. Even though it was a headache in beginning due to less competent garage staff, DIY job has given me a great satisfaction which cannot be valued.

Hi Davy Thanks for the detailed update! Any idea of the labour charge to replace the release bearing? As my findings the entire gear box has to be taken out! Thanks

There is a product called Rainx and there are many.. Its a DIY work.. search on Youtube there are lots of Videos explains how to do it. Once that is clean you do not need to put Vipers if you are running over 30kmph, rain drops will automatically drop off. Only issue is that this will last around 6monts only and you have to do it again keep the glass at same level.

Is it recommended to run on in this condition for a while? Any other damage could be possible due to this?

Rather it higher when A/C is on, it gives totally a different sound comparing to the sound when engine warming up. Do you get warming up noise on your Car? or it comes only when engine is hot? Did you show this to a mechanic? if so what was his observation? also what is the make and module?

If it is "clutch release bearing" can it varied the sound with the temperature?