Fixzit

As far as I know.. You can use DX-III in a DX-II tranny but it's not good or recommended to do the other way around...

Watch this... Might help you...

Thanks Sylvi for your input. If you have any contact details of that guy i would like to talk to him and see what he has done. As far as i know..deleting the dpf depends on the vehicle Model as well due to different manufactures using different types of dpf s, and also most dpfs as any other filter in our cars stop working and needs to be replaced at a very high cost when it comes to a situation that it cannot clean it self by regen or cannot be cleaned manually, and once the dpf light comes on and if the vehicle was driven for a while in limp mode it can cause some serious damage to the other components of the engine too. Im sure thats what happened to the car owner in your story..

By the way..I've spoken to enough Navara owners and done a quite a bit of research regarding fuel economy of Navara s and Pathys. While the manual do get the manufacturer mentioned fuel economy figure or atleast close to it around 10L/100kms,autos will almost never reach this And hangs around 13L/100kms to 18L/100kms mark unless you take off the dpf..which let's you come close to this..and being an auto that's fair. I'm not sure exactly why this happens and as you mentioned above fuel economy should only affect while a regen cycle is running. What my guess is for some reason the dpf of the Navara/Pathfinders are more restrictive than others. Dyno results show a 12hp gain in power just by removing it. I'll test this figure by myself In Dec with my Nav and let you know if you are interested...thanks.

From what i heard, Nissan has being doing some exhaust emissions related testing using 2007-2008 automatic transmission models for their more latest models like the new V6. That's why they only used The dpf in auto models till 2007. At that time even non dpf manuals were upto the emission standards but they wanted to go up one step. Unfortunately we had to pay for the extra fuel. While the regen cycle is running the ecu gets the injectors to spray 2 extra bursts of fuel to get the exhaust temp up and to keep the CO levels down, also the dam thing is heavy adding more weight to the car. I figured out how to take it off and also done it with a 2007 Pathy R51 and so far it's great. Will do the same to my Nav in Dec. This is more important in 2007-2009 models because the YD25 engine has been built with power and torque in mind..that's why it's ahead of most other double cabs built around same time with pickup and towing capacity. Very cool engine to play around if you know what you are doing..very easy to stuff up too. And just like you mentioned don.. Renault made the engine..

Because you said your visibility is 10-15m, and you feel like your Headlamps are not bright enough, If I was you, what I would do first is..I would take a good pair of wires with an AMP rating of 5 or more.. (60W with 12V is roughly 5A), and take off the 3 pin socket from the globe.. connect both globes directly to the battery and check whether there is a considerable difference with brightness.(Refer to the wiring diagram of H4 if you are not sure how to connect) If not.. the problem is with the globes.. if there is a difference..then it's the electrical system. So diagnose whats the problem and move on from there... I would do this while the engine is running because you get little bit extra volts at the lights and will not drain your battery while you are testing, and I also do not recommend using a higher wattage globe because this could burn your fusees, melt your wires, drain your battery excessively and destroy your lamps due to extra heat. *Be very careful not to let the wires touch each other or any metal part of the body while working with direct connections from the battery..(VERY IMPORTANT) Also great advise from experts regarding HID. If you don't have HID compatible or Projector type headlamps, DON'T USE HID !!! It's an accident waiting to happen.

Just sharing what i know from my experience and from what i heard so that someone else will have an idea of what's going on to make a good decision..Feel free to correct any point of mine if I'm wrong..after all I'm on this forum to learn as many of others here..

And yeah.. as far as i know.. only auto Navara s came with a DPF until 2008..Manuals did not..sounds funny..but true..

The DPF affect the fuel economy in two ways. Firstly a DPF regen cycle will start to clean the DPF normally when it's about 60% blocked. So more restrictions In exhaust is less power so you ll be using more fuel. Secondly when the Regen cycle starts.. the ecu will increase the exhaust gas temp by using extra fuel until the cycle is finished.. thus using even more fuel... Thanks for the info don.. and sorry for the delay..

This is in liters per 100kms as it's displayed on the dashboard.. approx values... On freeways at 100 and city driving it was around 16.5 L/100kms but sometimes it goes upto 20+ (I'm guessing this is when my DPF is patially blocked and re-gen cycle running.. Now It's between 12-15 mark and if i reset the counter on freeway at 100 and drive only on freeway for some distance (Which should give me the best economy, I get about 9... What I have here in Melbourne is a 2007 Pathfinder which is the same as Navara except it's a 7 Seater..and a bit more heavier.. I do have a 2007 Navara back home in SL and will do the same for it when I come down to SL in DEC and post the figures...

Because there have been few discussion above regarding fuel quality, I'd like to mention few things about it. Being a Nissan Navara owner and a big fan of it, I had to do quite a bit of reading about this because even before buying my Navara i knew I might have to face few issues with Diesel quality in SL. Ok here is what I found out.. When it comes to diesel quality..2 important factors.. Cetane Level and Sulfur level...(Assuming there is very less to no water mixed that is) Navara Needs a Cetane level of 50+ according to user manual, and having a Common-rail Turbo engine it needs 500ppm of sulfur or less... In SL, Normal diesel is 3000ppm (Way above the emission standards) and 46 in Cetane,This is not a big issue for non common rail engines because their injectors are not that sensitive to Sulfur and they are not that expensive compared, also they need a bit more sulfur in diesel to lubricate the parts inside the pump (Still 3000ppm is way too higher..anyways) But CR engines specially fuel pump and injectors are very sensitive and they will clog up or rust away very fast for high sulfur and once that happens only option is to replace at a huge cost. Fuel companies give away their Cetane values without no problem at all but they are a bit reluctant when it comes to Sulfur content. As far as I know (Correct me if If I'm wrong) in UK you can buy ULSD (Ultra low sulfur Diesel) which is about 50ppm and are recommended to newer diesel cars. I live in Melbourne at the moment and unfortunately Aussi fuel companies don't care about sulfur content at all. One of my friend works at a fuel station and he says the pump which says low sulfur diesel and the pump for truck diesel are connected to the same dip underground. Probably that's why some Navara's having an issue here and also get the DPF clogged up more often.. Anyways the point is.. If you are in SL and use a car with a common-rail diesel engine..Use only Super Diesel..which is 53 in Cetane and 500ppm in Sulfur..(If it does comply with what CEPETCO says that is.. but you don't have an option) I don't like to mention names but I*C EX***Mile Diesel is the same as Normal diesel with just a fuel additive so will not benefit your CR Engine It wouldn't be that hard to understand when you compare the price difference anyways..So it's a question of spending few extra rupees now? or spend probably few laks later.. I only use Super Diesel on mine since the day i bought it, my friend bought a Navara after 2 weeks i bought mine and he never listened to me..and was using normal diesel. Few days back he drove mine and realized that he should have listened to me before because he's got so much less pulling power compared to mine and also suffer from a rough idle..but i guess it's too late now.. Sorry if this is too long guys.. Hope it helped someone...

DPF Delete Pipe. Apparently this pipe has been designed so that the 2 pressure sensors and 2 oxygen sensors get the values as in the DPF is running fine with no blockage. So the Re-gen cycle never runs. Still I've red somewhere that there is another cleaning cycle running every few thousand Kms and that will still run. Didn't notice anything yet..As long as you do the pipe fitting while DPF light is still off and you don't stuff up the O2 sensors, you will not see any check engine or dpf light comes on..

If anyone's interested in taking off the DPF of a Nissan Navara D40 2006 Onwards.. Let me know..I've done it, and now I get much better fuel economy and bit more extra power.

That's what you must do, and keep in mind that this method does not work for every battery..

I've tried using Epsom salt to re-condition a battery which has been replaced for not charging enough and left dead for about 3 or 4 months..and I'm glad to say it worked on both batteries that I tried. I did not follow the proper procedure to be honest because I just waned to do a test. What I did was to get the renaming acid + water out of the battery..and mix some Epsom salt with about 150ml of hot water.. mix that with the acid which I took out, fill up the battery again with the solution and top it up to the level with some tap water. Left it for an overnight charge on my charger..connect it to a halogen lamp, drain it fully and re-charge.. My friend is still using that battery in his car and no problems at all.. after the second re-charge it was holding about 12.5V..i guess that's pretty good for a battery which was thrown out..Epsom salt is pretty cheap and easy to find over here..Not sure about SL though. 1 KG pack only cost me $4 bucks. If you are planing on doing it, I'd recommend that you use distilled water, and from what i heard you need to mix the Epsom salt until it's saturated solution.

If the sound its actually related to belts..then one or more belts could be loose and the noise will stop when it's tightened to proper tension. If the belt is damaged or worn out its better to replace with a new one and won't cost you much and in most cases you can replace it by yourself..

Also check the fuel filter for blocks..had a similar issue with one of my trucks. Replaced with a new quality filter and the problem was solved.

Probably.. what you are hearing is the Pre-Ignition knock.. which is basically the fuel and air inside the cylinders igniting before the spark plug lights up which could be due to few reasons. Most common would be ignition timing..wrong spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.. I'm sure your current fuel economy is not so good either... take it to a mechanic and get it checked. Maybe do a tune-up as well..as i said before there can be few other reasons as well...

Probably.. what you are hearing is the Pre-Ignition knock.. which is basically the fuel and air inside the cylinders igniting before the spark plug lights up which could be due to few reasons. Most common would be ignition timing..wrong spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.. I'm sure your current fuel economy is not so good either... take it to a mechanic and get it checked. Maybe do a tune-up as well..as i said before there can be few other reasons as well...

Make sure you balance the wheels if you haven't already done it. Also try swapping back wheels with the front. If the problem is solved, then there is an issue with your rims or tyres, If not, just like kush said, It could be for many reasons.

Faulty TPS Sensor maybe ?? Do you get the check engine light when your car bogs down?

I got the user manual with mine along with the service history and old recipts (Previous owner was a really nice guy i guess )when i bought it. Navara Vs Hilux? well I decided to go for Navara because I get better value for money. Navara gives you more power, better comfort (Lot better honestly), more options and better looking. Only down side is, if you buy an Auto, it comes with a DPF which affects your fuel economy. It's really upto you.. do few test drives and see...

Sulfur Contents... Ceypetco Normal Diesel = 3000ppm IOC Xtramile = 3000ppm (With Some additives doing I don't know what) Ceypetco Super Diesel = 500ppm If you have a common rail engine, use Super Diesel or you will ruin your injectors and pump..Super Diesel will give you a bit less mileage per liter of fuel than normal, but you have to make a decision.. Pay few bucks extra at the petrol station or pay a lot more at the auto shop and at the mechanic for injectors and pumps. PS: UK is one of the countries with best quality fuels so cars which are made for euro standards and Imported to SL require cleaner fuel to maintain their emissions. You can damage your exhaust system by using crappy fuel too ...

Pressurized refrigerant will be trapped on the high pressure side. If you first shut down the compressor (A/C switch) and then switch off the engine, it gives some time to cool down the trapped heated refrigerant as auxiliary fans still be running, or you give sometime to the system to run auxiliary fans and further reduce the temperature of refrigerant... I'm not so sure about this.. regardless of when you turn off the A/C compressor or the complete system, the pressure inside the system will always come the standing pressure of the system and this will be the same through out the system because high side starts from the outlet of the compressor till the very end of the expansion valve. When you turn off your system your cooler will get warmer thus opening the expansion valve more than before which balance the system. When you are not using the system, expansion valve is fully opened. You can even hear the refrigerant flow through the TX valve as soon as you turn the system off,,,but then turning your A/C off few mins before your final destination is a good idea...to remove some of the moisture trapped inside your cooler.. that will increase the longevity of the cooler considerably specially in a country like SL where there s lot of humidity in Air. No need to worry about the switch when you are starting up.. that's what I reckon !!!

There you go.. So It's not a bad clutch.. maybe get your sensors checked once again...