chan5

DO YOU UNDERSTAND THAT THERE'S SOME PHYSICS BEHIND THIS ..? Ok, let ME explain in simple way, sylvi's method will work, for sure, you can simply double the number of bulbs in the circuit. But the issue of non optimum supply is, the LED System is serial here, so one bust off , all system won't work, since LED'S Are sensitive for current changes, chances are high you bust one. So you've to fiddle with it again, then it's not DIY Fun, and calculation for resistor is free, and resistor will cost anything less than the price of "maalupaan".. If i recall correct, there was an issue of LED Taillamp of Bajaj pulser 135/ XCD 135 Because not using the exact LED bulb designed for the circuit.If you observe , you can see today also some off those bikes run with 1 or 2 LED'S Out of whole bunch.

simple physics mate, 1-prepare your circuit as in above manner, 2-connect it to a 12 supply , with an ammiter in serial way (can use the function of multimeter). 3-read the current throughout circuit. Ex - if it's 500mA, 4- You've 12 excess potential difference(because your circuit is 12v not 24v ), so you've to block it with a resistor. 5- Use Ohm's law equation, (V=IR). V=12v, I=0.5A , so your required resistor would be 24 - 'Ohms', 6 - power of the resistor should be able to handle the current through it, so calculate the power it generates by the resistor. Power=voltage*current. (P=VI). in above example it'S , 12v*0.5=6W. For optimum safety you've to go for 10W resistor 24 'ohm' resistor, in case you can't get 24 , go for the nearest above, usual resistor can handle upto 1w or so. (can't exactly remember) my calculations are with just imaginary values, there's an another simple way, search the net for suitable resistor . easy, but mind you, the power consumption of LED 'S are different, so it might not optimum for your circuit unless you use the same type LED.

/with given priorities , the best option again is allion/premio. I must say, dude.. 8 million for premio(used )? If you come out from your bingo hole, and see the world, just beyond these tastless bandas. Since you asked for options. BMW 320D-2011/12. AUDI A4-2011/12. Peugeot 508- 2012. Kia Optima 2012. Hyundai sonata 2012. Mazda Axella . Some of above are under permit imports, so you will have some lag period for transfer.(mind you it's quite commen these days).and who cares , when you drive a brand new A4 /508/320d? Finally it's your money, your decision.

Travelling on E01 full length up/down weekly at nights.and most of those vehicles are on high beam , but doesn't irritate as in a normal road, may be the barrier in the middle is obstructing the beams to eye level,

didn't get a chance to see the features offer by top of the range model montero. But i guess you look at the bright Side, loads of options are just a bullshit if you really don't use/need them. I admit people have different tastes , but for me i think that automobile industry have completed MY requirements in early 90's. power shutters + central locking + decent stereo + retractable mirrors +ABS + Few airbags + ESP.(my list) If you consider some of those, safety features - almost standard throughout the series since international regulations , such as ABS+AIRBAGS+ESP In european countries. Leather seats - make unnecessary hassles, crack with time, fade with sunlight and need extra care . So useless because synthetic material will does the job more easily. Electric seats - the most useless feature, my mama's 97 toyota has a 3 way manual seat adjustment which i love/so easy/so quick , with electrics you've to fiddle with buttons , settings , and it's not quick enough,tried once to adjust the electric seats in new 407, almost fed up . Sunroof- being a country near equater, does it needed, mind you in most cases , it leaks like old pre menapausal women , which is quite irritating .unnecessary troubles . Reverse sensors/camera/radar/ - a real man should be able to Reverse his car + drive only with one hand on steering .a camera show up others that you're feminine. CVT/triptronic- ask do they have manual version? it's more fun, easy , quicker , hassle free. Alloys - matter of 50-75k aftermarket if you really bother. 7 seats- again if needed you can aftermarket HID/BIXNEON - Yes if/ NO if they don't offer.not a big deal. side notes - based on my personal preferences , still i believe it's a good offer for permit.

never go to alawatta man, he's bloody swollen headed.show some attitudes to you ,why see those while paying your money . i Recommend the joint at kotta road .

damn it, we're lucky to stay free even after one year , for the murder of that hooker, which later transported by Ripper's truck for the disposal.

so i think you've got the first sign of painful future ownership with agents. Since it's million rupee matter, reserve a day and come colombo, and enlight us as well.

get the sunday newspapers, refer the AL advert s. Call them and have the idea.and if you can manage to earn 5-6 millions for premio, sure you can manage to find the price tag of the car.can't you.?

depends on whet he expect from the car, since he drives about 800km/moth , can go for BMW E46 Or 407 .

Ok, so why don't you stop all these nonsense and share some first hand experiences of the car in real sri lankan conditions. Which we all love to hear, how does the handling, road comfort, road presence and specially the reaction from cops..

damn.NO words on earth to explain it more than this ....! Side note .. Feel so sorry about the BMW 5 series, people with "mudalali" attitudes are really gonna ruin the exclusivity OF car,it seems that 5 series is almost the replacement option of allion / prado/ montero among these morons.

thanks mate , actually they have hardwired the system for no reason, found that temperature sensor is working fine?. removed the small u shape pin that somebody has fixed into a plug to bypass the sensor.working fine now, no ALWAYS ON fans, thanks mate, it was a simple fix .special thanks for explaining the proper science which is almost rare in so called mechanics,

thank's for the descriptive answer mate , just small clarification. 1 - my worry was the premature battery failure, because when starter motor kicking in there are additional loads by these radiator fans. 2 - it takes about 10-15 munites to come to midpoint of heat scale(which i think the optimum ), feels it's little lengthy..? 3 - doesn't the thermostat valve of the radiator prevent the flow of coolent until until engine reach the working temperature.so even if the fan rotates , there's no actual flow through engine.? 4 - found somebody down the timeline has messed up with the wiring system to bypass the thermostat , average electric mechanic fiddle with it for about 3 hours and was cluelss, any recommended place or person ? Thanks a lot again, it's feel so comfortable to discuss with a person who knows facts, (yesterday had really bad experience, fed up by trying to understand what mechanic said in his own jargon.)

didn't want to pop UP a new thread, can somebody please explain this, if i need to shift from water to 50-50 diluted coolent,in an old car (1997). 1- just draining by the pin of the radiator bottom is enough ? Or is their any other way of completely remove the remaining old water, 2-there are some corrosion particles visible on water inside radiator, is it healthy to replace with coolent because i heard this can cause some leaks.? 3-radiator is working fine , NO overheating at full length of E01 up and down once a week at 90-95 kmph steady speed.so is this gonna be a silly over maintenance ? 4 - radiator fan starts working just after ignition key on (not engine started yet). One electrician told it's Ok (i don't feel believe him), and i think at some point of an electrics related repair they've given a direct line to radiator fan.what should i do here? (again the cooling indicator works fine and never pass the midpoint). Thanks

with bad shocks you feel like excess wobbling of car in breaking and cornering. Some mechanics test it just by pressing the corners of car and feeling the hardness to compress and that's even more crappy,what you've to observe is, when you press it deeper, it should come back to original position and should not bounce up and down,(atleast NO single bounce). By manual way, first go to a shop and see your model shock , and just press it. Get an idea how it goes down,and the way of returning slowly to original position. Remove a one shock from front, and rear , press it and feel, in proper working shock , it should come back to original position just as JDNET mentioned. Don't listen to what mechanics say, if you know the rules of the game. And when you remove it, check the conditions of shock mounts, lower arm bushes ect , since those are easily accessible when shocks removed. After replacement , turn your steering from lock to lock with shutter open + AC/Music off and listen for any clunky sounds.(had such noise by not proper installing of shock to the mount by mechanic) and always if you want to test the suitability of the man who install the shock, i had a small question to ask from him. just ask, will my ride height increase after installing new shocks ? If he say Yes, just walk away because man is reta*ded. He doesn't know a crap about shocks. Good luck mate, i also check this computer shock thing it says my shocks Good, but from the experience i know it's time to change. .

got it, best of luck with your repair mate. if you are on kotte - thalawatugoda road. Turn onto Madiwela road (which is on right side when you travel from kotte junction.) the place is about 1km on the way, on your left, name is "NILW*LA MOTORS".

simply, avoid MA*zna because their cost is high , there were lot OF complains here in forum. If replacement goes closer to 100k,just give it a shot by repairing it. By that way you're sure what's in. Go for gearbox specialist, rather than mazda specialist.

update... Put the car for dismantle on day before yesterday as planned. They've finished the repair and re assemble on yesterday itself and i had a test drive too. Gearbox was working fine , NO engaging delays and butter smooth ridding. I wanted to check it on cold start so i skipped the pick up for today morning' picked the car on today morning , run for about 60 kms and working fine. Not any noticeable issues. Think the issue is settled 100%. Too early to predict the long term durability OF the repair. But the garage gave 6 months warranty for it. And about the place. Quite friendly mechanic, seems he knows what he's doing. Total repair cost 26k , which is below s quoted 28k tag. Replaced all seals and rings , few bearings.valves and bla bla.included about 6 liters of toyota D2 Oil. And ,car was dirty after some running in rain .and they've bothered to do a body wash and interior vaccume cleaning from a near by service station before the delivery of car ,(free of charge). Which is not a thing to amaze but those type of things are rare in this field. Anyway can recommend the person, it's still too early to recommend long term durability , but for now. . It's working fine. And thanks everybody for helping out about and your inputs.

EXACTLY, it's worth if "IT HAS ONLY THOSE REPAIRS".. If it's me , i'll keep another 300k or around for possible repairs since i'm so suspicious about the price tag given. And correctly, you what you can buy for 600k? Even a new three wheeler is around 500k i heard. :)

since it's a volo , most probably it must have been used by an executive level person with a driver. So probably have maintained it well. Since it's an old car, chances are high that you might have to attain some repair.including the fact that it's a volvo. Keep some reasonable reserve. Will say some 200-300k in case . Check for vital points with competent mechanic.don't just jump and buy a lemon assuming it's damn cheap.usually very few people have enough balls to buy a 15 years euro. So salute on that. All the very best.

ANY proofs , links or citations for this details ? I guess these are his words itself ? Or previous experiences of anybody ?

spot on. I've done this . And try scan the document if possible. Photo thing i failed couple OF times.0:) my bad camera

selected the PERI'S recommended place because easy accessibility. And arranged to put the car for dismantle in an evening. Repairing process on next day. And because i need to check the repair in cold start,(and mechanic too insisted) will be picking up on the following day. So technically it's about 2 or more days. As you guessed, kolonnawa guy is little busy with some cvt boxes too.

yes , i've discussed with the both places where KOMISIRIPALA and PERI Recommended. And yes indeed, selected the most accessible place to me :) :) . And felt that both offer the similar package with minor differences. Thanks for sharing the information, hoping to dismantle the box on this week itself. Let you all know, how the things go on.