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harshansenadhir

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Everything posted by harshansenadhir

  1. Damn quick would be the best description though
  2. Renault "kuda mita" in local context.
  3. what are the changes you have done recently? say last two weeks ? injector pressurizing? air filter change? or was this happened for quite long time and you have only started noticing since of late? have you at least change the place you park the vehicle ? like a place with a slant? which allows condensed water to flow out of the barrel quite fast ? if it's not oily nor smelly, it IS water vapour as some members have highlighted.
  4. You're correct in this and in fact that's the reason I asked you to switch off and on before cranking. But you have mentioned that "keeping the ignition at on position a while then it cranks will start it at once"'so I suspect it to be either pump or pressure regulator. On off has to be done like following Switch on the ignition and you should hear the pump working and stops. Wait for the stop and switch off. Repeat this about three times and crank. If it stars the pump failed to pressurize the rail at first attempt
  5. This could happen in old or new diesels when there's a leak developed in feed circuit. From tubes or from hand pump or faulty filter housing. You have to crank more to get fuel to the pump or sometimes it won't start at all as pump find it's easy to suck air through the leak than diesel. This pressure drop can happen in petrol vehicles due to weak fuel pump and faulty pressure regulator.
  6. Did you check with a different fuel pump? Issue is it's taking sometime to achieve pressure in the line, thet's why it starts after you keep the key in ignition on position for a while. Till you sort it out make sure keep the key in ignition on position for a while before cranking or switch off and on again and keep in the ignition on position. Saves starter motor
  7. Pressure drop in fuel feed circuit. Either the fuel pump or pressure regulator valve could be at fault. Also make sure there's no leaks in the feed line which allows fuel to flow back.
  8. This is too much I recon. Max it should 5k beyond, is ripping you off.
  9. Dude, dont ever use recon/ used water pump as you don't know how long it will last and blades of the fan are corroded. Further you will have the burden of opening t belt cover again and in some models, for an example 1C engine, the diesel pump securing bolts too fixed to the water pump housing. You should be able to soure a new one aroun 2800 to 4000 depending on the brand. Try to find a GMB if possible.
  10. It's inside the t belt cover and t belt removal is required to replace. Usually this is replaced with new ones and no repairing possible as the bearing is sealed. If t belt require replacing or it's closer by, wise to replace that as well
  11. Not 100% sure of course, but from what you said,( leather rubbing kind of sound) further if it's a sound coming out of PAS pump it should be there even for a right turn.
  12. The water pump has to be replaced, this is the typical symptom to indicate the water pump bearing too is worn out on these engines. Since it also works as a guide pulley for the t-belt, it can be trivial if not replaced.
  13. If it's 185/70 R14, there's a chance the tire maybe rubbing against the wheel arch. Try to simulate this sound and get someone to check whether that's the cause. Very unlikely the sound could be due to worn out rack ends
  14. What's the tire size on front wheels? Maybe the tire rubs agains inner wheel arch when turning left?
  15. So, it's everyone's responsibility to bring Kolamba lamissis to make sure there will be a better photoshoot. A what? J44 ? too many trucker + Jeep boys this time, anyways, that creates better opportunities for those who drags for the first time ever.
  16. very well summarized don. Let me add the energy transferring efficiency into the advantages of front wheel drive. Rear wheel drive setup, energy is transferred 90 degrees from the engine to the wheels. This contributes to an energy loss as oppose to FWD setup where the direction of the engine rotation and wheel rotation are the same and CV joints transfer power more efficiently than universal joints.
  17. I saw jami challenging Vvtis Alfa, so that too should count. Alfa is no better than mini, when compared the power to weight ratio. Vvti will surely have a tough time And peri don't commit bad karma saying no to this photo shoot as this gonna be THE event after many years of silence. Seems you've forgotten all kolamba lamissis who usually gather for drags. Anyways, ripper, you got one more responsibility than just driving the booty ride around. Get the night shoot filters ready.
  18. Beg to differ on the idea that doing 100 or 120 on the townace is pushing it's limits. The overdrive makes it easy for the engine quite well from my experience, is yours auto by anychance? Then the engine will rev bit faster than of in a manual.
  19. I'm sorry trucker boy, you can carry some chicks on the carriage and be a spectator.
  20. first step of burning the motors instead of rubber
  21. this is unfair, am I banned?
  22. Not the case in J44 All electrics are 24V, bugger when it comes to find some parts.
  23. that's understood, what I meant was if used an electronic flasher unit, it'll be even more energy efficient edit: even the flasher unit uses a coil, which will waste engery in terms of heat
  24. Yo Peri, duty calls!
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