MeanGreenZ28

So I guess I'll make this a project progress thread ... at first I was going to do a "put the bare minimum to get it running project" but if we decide to keep her longer, I'd want her to last and therefore it's turned into a "do it right the first time and it'll be cheaper in the long run project". Have most of the engine apart, just waiting on a engine hoist to pull it all out. not in a rush 'cos I still don't have anything to put back in. Also sourced an engine locally and he'll deliver to me. It's supposedly got bad rod bearings, hence the reason he pulled it. He's asking $350 but I've sent him a note asking if he could hook a brother up! The engine block is going to the machine shop asap before I leave to SL, and they're gonna go through the whole thing and basically make it "new" again. This way, I don't have to worry about it any issues of putting a used motor in and not knowing its history. Engine shop quoted anywhere from $800-$1500 depending on if they need to split the case and polish the journals due to the possible bad rod bearings and whatever else they find in there. These are the same guys who built my V8 in the past. work so far ... well, I've actually taken out more and it's only the bare block and heads there now lol, you can see the big end of the rod through the hole in the block

Let me get this straight...so we finally start building vehicles in Sri Lanka but we ruin it all with bad service, and thereby make people import as usual? Wow, just wow that's sad

Sad story but unfortunately this should be a lesson to all drivers and not just hybrids. It's no excuse that it was a hybrid, if he bought a car, he needs to know how to use it. It's as simple as opening the owners manual.

Was going for the slammed with huge wheels look like gangsters! lol

you using a standard mouse or a pen/tablet style? hope you don't mind me adding my one and only photochop job of my old Explorer ... boredom does crazy things, lol

Well I took the D50 apart and even got the top cover off but then didn't take the circuit board out and put it all back together .. hahaha. Well I was bored and I still didn't have the replacement part on me though... Weird stuff though, it's been working fine with no hiccups. I'm guessing it was the bad lens that was causing this issue. I've recently read about some cheaper lenses dropping the signal between the camera and the lens contacts and remounting or fiddling the lens corrects it, wonder it it's that. Gonna keep using it religiously to see if the problem returns! On another note, the wife had spilled some drink on her Canon point-n-shoot and the zoom ring around the shutter button would only work when it was warm. When the climate is cold it would be stuck or really hard to turn the ring ... how's that for chemical properties! lol ... feeling froggy after the D50 was an apparent (somewhat) success, I took the Canon apart and actually got it all apart, cleaned and back together and the darn thing works!! I'm proud of myself 'cos I had no service manual and even more proud that I had no tiny little screws left over! btw, jdnet, still loving the Legacy .. first oil change is tomorrow!

I remember back in the 90's when the first motorcycles that had the daytime running lights (ie new Yamaha TZR125) started appearing on SL roads, they were quickly called "on light" models haha

NIce work!!

Yeah shouldn't use them when the engine's not running. I had accidentally left the inverter in from friday evening through Monday morning (it was connected to my gps unit cos I lost the car charger and used a phone charger USB) an it drained my battery. It uses a bunch of power and heats up. Mine is also an older unit and it's not as efficient as some newer units.

exactly, you set it up to read the pulses in your RPM gauge input and set it to come on at a predetermined RPM so you can shift before it hits the REV limiter. It's usually set a few hundred rpms below your limit to allow for time to shift. Useful when you want to concentrate on your driving rather than watching the tach, a light coming on at the corner of your eye is a nice indicator to either get off or shift!

ohhhh hahahaha sorry we doubted you lol

what? was this one of your drunk posts?

Yeah, you can directly get it off the fuse box using a fuse tap or off the acc/on side of the ignition with an inline fuse.Here's what I did with my last project, I installed terminal strips so I can get all the power I needed off of them without having to tap into power wires multiple times in the future. One of the strips is (+) and one is ground (-). The circuit board you see hanging there was for the shift light that was hidden in the AC vent.

No need to get hostile guys, we're all trying to help. If it's a top post battery, a new terminal clamp will fix it; since it's doubtful that the post shrunk in size so much. If it's a side terminal battery that has a threaded hole, you're kinda out of luck and will need to either re-tap and put in a larger thread or use an insert like Heli-coil to repair the terminal. Also, sometimes it's better to post a pic of the said problem to help guide the discussion along... Good luck!

you can dump as much fuel in there but you can't dump infinite air to burn it. Nitrous has more "O2" per area than atmosphere so dump nitrous in there and it'll burn baby burn!!! <<--- nitrous doesn't burn, it provides the O2 for the fuel to burnbut you could have a backfire ... many many vids on youtube for Nitrous backfire, happens all the time in drag racing. High compression engines with crazy cam durations with lots of reversion and some bad timing with the nitrous and fuel solenoids (and a bit of bad luck) and BOOM! One of the reasons why there's nitrous progressors, timers and stages, too much too soon and BOOM! What's reversion? Basic definition is "going back to where it came from" ...I'm assuming you know basic valvetrain theory here...and I shall try to explain to my best knowledge... When you want an aggressive cam profile, the only way to get more air in the chamber is to keep the valve open longer and the only way to keep the intake valve open longer is to start opening earlier and closing later. So this means the intake valve starts opening earlier and usually while the piston is still traveling up and pushing the exhaust gases out. This is fine when the engine is running at higher RPM's 'cos the scavenging effect of the exhaust port pulls the used exhaust out; and also thereby pulls fresh air in to the chamber. At lower RPM's though, that's not the case. The valve opens early enough that the piston actually acts like a pump (like it's supposed to) on the intake side and pushes some of that exhaust back into the intake manifold thereby creating "reversion"; and also the crazy/sexy sounding idle "lope" in engines ... when that exhaust is still burning/extremely hot, you get a nice little cause for concern if you have a fresh mixture of fuel and nitrous waiting in the intake manifold. the other way of exploding is to just have too much combustion pressure and the mechanicals not being able to handle it.

If you want it to look like a factory installed socket, it's not that hard. Get a replacement/aftermarket unit for your car, make another hole wherever you want to match the hole that your current unit occupies/or needed by the new socket and stick it in there and take the same wires from your existing and wire it up. you'll get something like this .. If you can't find it in SL, I'll bring you one in June, just let me know My current project is to take apart a 12Vdc (lighter socket) to 120Vac inverter and mount the plug point permanently somewhere in the new project car as a standard outlet for charging a laptop/ipod/etc. It's not too hard, just figuring out where to mount it/etc. is what'll be the hardest part. like this ... Sorry for thread highjack

sorry about the repost ... didn't hit the search button, lol

IN!

just get a new post clamp if you can, your old one is stretched too far to fit properly and anything else is just a bandaid

BOOK!!! Who the hell in SL bought this? haha, mad money, but What the heck! $275000 Ferrari book sold to Sri Lankan

So the last time I used my Nikon D50, it started acting up where the shutter release button wouldn't respond, not all the time, but every now and again. This was the main reason that I bought the D200, it's sat in the box ever since 'cos I can't just sell a camera I know doesn't perform. It'll work fine for days at a time, but then act all stupid. I have to turn it off/on multiple times before it'll respond and start firing away again. I was told by a repair shop over here that it probably needs the top circuit board/card replaced. I've looked through the service manual and it's pretty damn complicating 'cos you have to start at the bottom to get to the top cover. I'm not sure I should tackle this by myself, it's a little smaller than my area of expertise .. haha. Also, the repair shop quoted me like $250 for the repair (to start) and the part I found on ebay for like $38. I'll be in Colombo in June and wouldn't mind getting a reputable shop to take care of it for me, if you'll know of a place. I'm sure it'll be cheaper than here; I'll even bring the part and service manual. If not, anyone interested in buying a Nikon D50 (I'll bring the part/manual with me, you just get it replaced) to help me with some spending money in SL? haha. The lens has seen better days, doesn't work in auto that well and hunts for focus (makes a loud squeaking noise like it needs to be lubed) ... works in manual focus though. Shutter has about 12K actuations. Let me know about the repair shop though ... Id hate to try it on my own and have a big pile of junk. lol

that's 'cos when he pushes the pedal, he'd be in the same place (in space) and the world rotates under him!

looking for a short or long block and can't find any locally. All that I find is pretty far or across the country and shipping costs are gonna rape me; and they're not even that good (mileage/etc.) to convince me to pay the shipping costs ... ***sadgasm***

yup ... dammit, I need to get myself a copy!

haha, look at my goofyness! I may start writing for them on a regular basis, if everything goes well, and wouldn't mind some constructive criticism...