varotone
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Everything posted by varotone
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Nope. I did it myself. BTW, I don't call it a service. Just a flush and refill. There was nothing wrong with the radiator, at least nothing that I noticed. You can't fix it if it ain't broken. So, there was no point of taking to a shop. I just wanted to get rid of the water and use coolant.
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UPDATES: (I would not call these a part of a restoration. It is basic automotive maintenance tasks to do regularly) 1. Radiator flush and refill done. I used an ABRO 10 minute radiator flush and one gallon of ABRO green color diluted radiator coolant. I would like to share the following tips to make the process easy. The petcock is copper and unscrewed easily by hand. The only problem when draining the fluid is once the nut is fully removed, water shoots right ahead to the compressor. The stream of water wets the pully of the compressor and the belt. Take precautions not to wet the compressor. One solution would be to fix a plastic tubing to the drain plug (like you bleed brakes). I could not find a piece of tubing that fits. So, I kept a rag dangling from the radiator housing just in front of the drain bolt so that the stream of water hits the rag and falls down instead of hitting the compressor. Be careful not to get the rag tangled up in the rotating pullies and belts. If you ignore the stream of water hitting the rotating belts, you will end up spewing a warm mix of nasty chemicals all over the place. Always wear goggles and gloves when handling these chemicals. While running the engine and doing the flush, it is easier to close the radiator and run a slow stream of water into the radiator fluid reservoir instead of running water in through the open cap. Pouring water into the reservoir gives some space to work with and avoids the danger of touching hot radiator and splashing hot water. Make sure the radiator pressure cap is functional before attempting this. I had to use a little more than a gallon to fill the radiator and the reservoir. I also had some ABRO radiator leak repair powder handy just in case the flush had done its job too well. I didn't have to use it though. A leak may be difficult to detect at a glance. Radiator coolants usually contain a luminous pigment which fluorescence under UV light. Shining a UV light at the radiator in the dark will highlight any leaks as bright luminous spots. Mine had none. 2. Replaced the wiper blades. Used a one with a small plastic cover on top to protect from the elements. I didn't make much fuss about the original looks since this is consumables and I will have to replace them again. Because the alignment of the wiper blades was off, I had to remove the arms and re-align them so that the blades don't go out of the windshield. Hopefully, during the next weekend, I will attempt to fix the scratch marks on the windshield.
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- mitsubishi
- a72v
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How were the door panels attached by default? Mine was fixed with numerous screw nails. Looks very untidy. I had to remove the panels from the tailgate to fix the lock. I plan on replacing the panels nicely as it was supposed to be fixed.
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I'll have to buy new battery leads along with the plastic caps that cover the terminal. And the battery restraining piece as well. I see only one metal pillar on the side of the battery. There should be two with a screw on top on either side of the battery. May be I'll leave it to the end to do with tinkering. I'll.have to resort to some makabas job for now. @Davy Thanks for the offer to help. I have PMed you. Two pairs of mirrors was the previous owners idea. I'm planning to remove the fenders for now. It needs a bit of repair. Will re attach them after tinkering and painting. Radiator cap, flush, coolant all in my shopping list. And wipers. Had to postpone the radiator flush due to bad weather.
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Thanks for noticing that. Can you please share a photo of the battery fitted correctly? I will look at it and fix.
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- mitsubishi
- a72v
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Can you say what what I own from the pictures? LA LB or LC? I found a Haynes manual on E b a y. Considering buying it as option B.
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UPDATES: Passed the emissions test Idel HC=438 CO=1.17 @ 2500RPM HC=230 CO=0.45 Bought a repair kit and did a rebuild. Originally main jet was size 120 and changed to 80. The idel could be better tuned. There is a small problem. When the A/C is switched on the engine can't idle. It stalls. The mechanic said to replace the diaphragm first and then tune the idel. Here are the pics. (NOTE: Gentlemen, you may see this listed in classified sites. Please do not comment on the price that I may have paid for it. I know that you will be doing it in good faith to prevent me from being ripped off by a shady dealer. But, someone saying that I could have bought it for less just brakes my heart. After all, there's nothing that can be done about the purchase now.)
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Thanks a lot for the input and appreciation. #1. No. there's no blue smoke. #2. Spark plugs are still usable. All were carbon fouled to begin with. I cleaned them before the second attempt. Air filter looks good. #3. I didn't check the PCV components. But if there's an obstruction, that would increase HC in the exhaust gas and not CO? Please correct me if I'm wrong. #4. Thank you. I will check it tomorrow.
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An engine overhaul is my last option. I will start looking at the smaller, easily correctable faults first. When fixing a car (or anything else for that matter) one should start from the parts easiest to test/fix and work up to more difficult to test/fix parts. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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@Twin TurboThe first one. (Silver engine bay with a coat of grease. Dunno why the previous owner smeared grease all over). Isn't the back drum like thing right below the wiper motor the brake booster? UPDATES: I went for the emissions test today. Just drove in in the condition that I bought it in. It even had a misfire at high revs. I failed the emissions test! Went to a mechanic and replaced the ignition contact breaker (mechanic says "platinum set") and the wires from the distributor to spark plugs. One wire had visible damage at a kink in the wire. Others were all right on inspection. No sparks. But I just replaced the whole set of wires. I failed the second attempt as well. Next attempt is a carburetor tune-up and most likely go for a smaller caliber main jet. I'll give it a try tomorrow. This is how the emissions test went First attempt Idle RPM=790, HC=5094, CO=7.06 At 2500, HC=4498, CO=4.36 Second attempt Idle RPM=820, HC=516, CO=0.39 At 2500, HC=358, CO=6.06
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It has a booster (servo). I assume it's the same thing our mechanics refer to as "save brakes". Here's a pic of the engine bay. I have to postpone the brake liners job because I failed the emissions test.
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Bumping old thread. @mensoft can you please update the links to the photos in the first few post? Does anyone have the Lancer A27 user manual and chassis repair manual (I don't know if such a thing ever exists)? Electronic or printed copy The engine repair manual is available at the post quoted above.
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Thanks Davy for updating the link to the engine manual PDF. E b a y has a couple of manuals for sale. They are German. I have contacted the seller regarding an English one. Now my todo list is 1. Get the emission test 2. Update the revenue license 3. Replace all four brake liners 4. Change the radiator coolant I would like to hear from the experts about #3 and 4. 3. I'm looking for Brembo/EBC/OEM(Akebono) to replace all four. 4. I have to add a radiator coolant. Have doubts about doing a flush. My worry is that small debris might be covering the minute leaks in this old radiator. When I do a flush will I remove those plugs and create leaks that were not there?
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Mitsubishi 4dr5 J44 User/workshop Manual
varotone replied to Nishan.dj's topic in General Automotive
Do you have a Lancer A72 manual by any chance? It would be very helpful if you could at least direct me towards somewhere I can get one. Thanks, Varotone. -
Does anyone have a workshop manual for this model? I would like to buy one preferably. Even an ebook would be very helpful. I Ihavesearched the internet without any success.
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The first mechanical work would be new brake liners. I'm planning on getting them done tomorrow after getting the emissions test and license in order.
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UPDATE: Project car changed. I found another one in better shape for a lower price. Just brought her home. Pics and a detailed post coming up tomorrow. (Gentleman, please don't comment on the price I paid for it. I know that all of you do it in good spirit to prevent me from being ripped off by a nasty dealer. Still, my heart aches when someone says that I could have bought it for less)
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Oh boy! I've been ripped off. Seriously, I'm considering switching the vehicle at a small loss. Looks like the savings I'll have by cancelling this transaction will heavily out weight the minute loss I'll make by keeping this. Gentleman, please PM if you know/have a A72-V that will be suitable for my project.
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Davy was correct about the price. And I'm embarrassed. I'm having second thoughts about the price I paid for this. I can cancel the transaction within another two days at a small loss. So, I'm checking out other ones. I'll buy it if the expected savings in hastle and money is worth switching. Please let me know if there's a genuinely good car for my budget for my project. If any gentleman is willing to go the extra mile for me and check/recommend one, I'm very grateful for the favor. As per Davy's suggestion, I had a look at the the one advertised for 1.5k. I ran away soon. Body was a rusted tin can with holes. Seats were dripping wet from all the holes formed due to rust. Engine was replaced and not updated in the book. The bit with the engine number is broken.(only a part of the number is there). Here are a few pictures.
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@Twin Turbo 1. Thanks for reminding the wiper blades. I plan on doing this as my first ever repair job on the car. 2. I want to know what originals came with it to restore to factory specks. @Davy I'll keep an eye for a bargain for bumpers and mirrors. I plan to buy them bit by bit and put together everything in the end. #9 Noted with thanks Paint job is a temporary one. I'll get back to it next month probably. Can you please PM me the advertisements? I'm quite certain that it is what I bought (lesser price than advertised. Because I haggled down). Please PM me any good specimens to buy. I haven't paid in full yet. May be I'll be able to cancel the transaction.
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I have already bought this. Main reason was the budget. It's really cheap. I'm aware of the cost of the restoration. (I'm not a crazy rich dude who wants to restore a car. But, my budget is to spend about 1.5 x purchase price of the car within the next 2-3 years). I'm very optimistic about the project. I have a lot to learn. The remaining work and cost may well justify the cost of the project.
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I know that this car had side mirrors on the fender by default. Are they chrome or plastic? Mine is plastic as you can see. What did the GL originally have?
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Today I started to patch up the obvious rust spots. This is just a quick fix to stop the rust from spreading. Here's how it's going. I'll post a close-up of the front vents tomorrow.
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Thanks for all your replies. I have to confess that I never researched about the car before buying. Blame it on my immaturity (I'm 25). 1. The seller keeps saying it is GL. Has the highest "market" when I haggle. According to him the bage upholstery and door panels are also in demand. 2. Clock, spedo, odo, trip are functional. 3. I thought the three-dimond and mmc was some aftermarket addition. Thanks for confirming it's the default. 4. Never knew the buffer was black. I thought some makabas had painted it black. I will regret not having a chrome buffer. I love the chrome trims. (May be I'll swap out the buffer for a chrome one later) 5. There's no rust under the front vent. I'll post a picture of it tomorrow. 6. I never looked at "good examples". Only at bargains. 7. Sorry, @Sierra Charlie, I've already made something like an impulse purchase. Blame it on my immaturity. Thanks a lot for your offer to help. I'll drop you a PM. 8. @MrCat, my choice is definitely not the best that I can get. That said, I'll learn a lot from this. I plan to use 3d printing and CNC milling to make the bits and pieces as per original specifications. Let's see how this goes. 9. @Twin Turbo, mechanics is my first priority. I think I'll have to start with the steering box. Please elaborate on "re-core the rad to a3 core unit if te car doesn't have one" I'm a noob. Please explain in terms that I can Google. Do you mean to say rebore the engine?
- 189 replies
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- 1
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- mitsubishi
- a72v
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