GearHead

If you are good with spanners you should be able to do this at home . The only problem is that you'd need to find another Ek3 for that. Alo try changing the injectors as shanX suggested. Most of the mechanics wouldn't actually go down this path as this is extremely time consuming. If you somehow manage to get this done, make sure you reset the ecu every time you change a sensor. You'd also have to drive the car a fair distance in average traffic conditions to get a realistic kmpl figure. As i said this is extremely time consuming. What kmpl does it do outstation?

well if the buyer is interested i can give you the contact details of the person that would actually be doing the PPI inspections at stafford motors. However, he is only available in weekends so you might have to arrange someting with him. you might be able to save some $$$. However, if you really need the engine scanning done, then u'd have to go to stafford bro. just a small warning though, engine scanning would not reveal any mechanical issues of the engine. It will only reveal what it gathers through the sensors. You might need to take it for a good test drive to find out condition of the suspension, gearbox operation, other vibrations,etc.. :)If you take the car to the dealers, make sure you tell them to do a through checkup on the condition of suspension bushes.

+1 If by any chance Upul knows the previous owner or if he is getting something from the deal, that f***** would recommend you any piece of crap if he can gain a new customer or some other benefit out of it..Talking with first hand experience here. He recommended a EG8 Vtec to one of my friends and said it was in very good condition. Later when we went to inspect the car, we found out that the previous owner had used it on LP gas. Suspension was rubbish(he said it was bc of the old tyres) and when we asked him, he reluctantly agreed and then said his most fav. words. "Well we can fix all the issues, no problem". I mean which good , honest mechanic would suggest a crappy car to another person knowing the actual condition of it. Anyway, it up to the owner of the car to decide.. Just giving some information so people can take precautions when they're working with these sort of people..

just a thought, One of my friends here has a Lancer Evo and he did some mods on it without a proper ECU tune and the car started performing very poorly after the mods. It was boost cutting and the engine was running rough. Then he took the car to a good tuner and found out that ecu was dumping more fuel into the engine than what was required due to all sort of new inputs it was getting through the sensors. According to the tuner ECUs are programmed to do this to protect the engines from issues like lean A/F ratios, etc,etc.. Applying this to your case, just the basic concepts since we are comparing very different cars here, couldn't it be possible that one of your sensors is sending a wrong signal to the ECU which makes it think that there is a higher airflow to the engine that what is actually going into it? Since we all know that ECU can adjust the map, to a certain extent of course, based on the input signals and driving conditions,etc a false signal could lead to an increase in fuel supplied to the engine. Which means that the sensors are working, but the voltage(signal) that its actually sending to the ECU is not the accurate figure.. If this is the case, even a new ECU might not help you to solve the issue. If you have a friend who has an EK3 Exi you could try swapping the sensors with his one and see if that makes an improvement. Agents are very popular for suggesting the most expensive path first as swapping parts is the most profitable, less time consuming and the easiest task for them. Anyway, this is just a thought, might not really work on your car. But well worth the try.. Also try other forums dedicated for hondas and what sort of kmpl figures are you getting? (Bit lazy to go through the whole thread again to find out) cheers..

That' something most of them try to do even before they fix any other existing issues.. ..and their next fav. is blocking o the fresh-air circulation mode..

Helps to get dirt and other sh*t of from the condenser machan. This increases the airflow through the unit, hence higher efficiency..

If handling is what you are after, get an EK series Civic...Have a 2005 ES(D17) here and it feels heavy around tight corners(has good grip though). Front and rear anti-roll bars , well it doesn't always mean great handling

the one underneath should be located after the catalytic converter..If the first one is mounted lower down on the exhaust manifold, you might not actually see it from the top side as the heat shield gets in the way...

+1

PM Sent

Not sure if this would help, but have to tried resetting the ECU?

When was the last time you checked your spark plugs? Before you blow thousands of Rs. on replacing a clutch check if your engine has a very good tune.No engine miss at idling speed doesn't mean that there is no issue with the ignition and the fuel injection system. The way engines behave significantly changes depending on other factors such as engine load, etc, etc...So you couldn't really come into a conclusion about the condition of your efi sys. by just checking the smoothness of the engine at idling speed. If i were you I'd just use it for a while and see if the problem returns. If it does, look for a simple and cheap solution and then work your way up. Don't spend money on repairing anything based on an assumption..

Chick Chick BOOOM @ 0.25sec

lol those south park guys are funny...quite popular here too like family guy and American dad

I dont think VVTI was referring to your post machan..

Porsche 918 Spyder

looks like you have had some bad experience

No machan, the blower does not put any burden on the engine as its just using electricity. However, this would slightly increase the engine rpm which is totally negligible( you might not actually notice the increase in rpm unless you are connected to an digital rpm gauge) compared to the stress that an AC compressor puts on an engine..

The AC button is there to turn on or off the cooling function hence it is directly connected to the AC compressor. When you turn it off, it disengages the compressor clutch and as a result the engine would run with less burden which might lead to some reduction in fuel consumption. However, in the long run, you might not actually notice an improvement in fuel consumption simply because the extra burden you'd be putting on the AC sys. with repeated cooling down cycles from a higher ambient temp.IMO you should either use it the way it suppose to be used or not use it at all..Its totally up to you

how come it has "15-" plates on it?????

+1

hi machan, that price seems to be reasonable..i think i paid somewhere around 10K at that time when i had mine converted to a bigger one.Basically it will sort out all the cooling issues that you experience during the day time. Oh, btw you'll have to rewire the radiator fan so that it'd come on as soon as you turn the AC on hence better colling for the larger unit. You'll have you use an additional relay and make sure you take it to a qualified electrician. Ill drop you a mail tomorrow with some more details bro..

you can get them in both liquid or paste form...i usually go for the paste with a proper hand applicator pad to reduce wastage

hey wish happy b'day machan

one is on the exhaust manifold and the other on the exhaust pipe just after the catalytic converter