GWX777

Precisely. Driving in city traffic and short distances automatically qualifies you for severe usage and shorter time between service intervals.

I bought it off AliExpress back in 2021 (double board clone) for $115 with shipping. Better try that avenue as locally it would be more expensive.

During any of those attempts, did the technicians validate if there is a vacuum leak in the master cylinder, or attempted to clear any air by pulsating ABS using HDS? (this is a very noisy test with loud pulsation of ABS and takes good 3-5 mins per wheel) HDS has tests to check this and helps to clear any air if any has been brought in during break pad changes or having low fluid level in the reservoir. I don't have the car nor the HDS anymore so don't have any steps or pictures unfortunately.

No longer owns the beauty though; I used only the charcoal one from V*C. Purchased from the agent in Panchikawatte.

this one is very easy to unhook when cleaning up the AC filter, but a real PIA when putting it back. The correct way is in a diagram in the manual and it's relatively easy if followed up correctly. Key step is to hook the damper before putting the glove box back together and keep your movements minimal to avoid any unwanted self-unhook of the damper again.

Is that the new way of saying “common issue in this model” 🤣?

RON 95 = 91 Octane

You’re going to get disappointed big time if you expect the 1L Civic to give you these figures. Fuel economy is a subjective matter and can vary depending on the driver for the same car. just to give you some real context, here’s ours with 0-45K throughout our ownership of over 3.5 years.

Just adding some vital information regarding the timing belt, cause of it to wear out prematurely and what NOT to do (scraping the belt surface etc.) to the belt and address the real root cause if possible.

another obvious difference is that 1.0L got 3 cylinders vs the 1.5L got 4 cylinders. Also 1.0L is only produced for UK and Turkey and 1.5L is manufactured at many plants worldwide.

You should try with Srikantha Motors, Panchikawatte. NWB produces refills for Hondas. Cheers!

Yep. 1.0T uses a newly designed timing belt which is designed to last 10yrs/200,000km. This runs submerged in engine oil. If you use oils that cannot withstand higher temperatures of the turbo, or without adequate additives, first part to fail would be the timing belt. The outer coating of this belt peels off and those particles cause blockage at various filters inside the engine. So the turbo runs starving oil, which causes it to fail. Same could apply to certain seals as well. So if a turbo is busted, it’s not merely a bad turbo, but what I mentioned above. I’ve heard of people who has changed turbos as frequent as oil filters and still runs with some Toyota 0W-20 or Mobil Super semi. Owners manual suggests to use Honda Type 2.0 oil, if you want to use a XW-20 viscosity oil. If it’s unavailable, then they ask to go for a XW-30 (X can be 0,5,10 but irrelevant for us as we don’t hit sub-zero temps here) commercially available oil. When I checked directly with Honda UK, they suggested to go for Castrol Edge Professional H fully synthetic 5W-30 (the “H” denotes that it’s manufactured by Castrol in collaboration with Honda) So for my car which is equipped with a GPF as well (GPF was alien to many when I enquired it from many places) - it’s there in any 1.0T model manufactured after mid 2018. I needed an engine oil compatible with ACEA C2/C3 so my choice was Mobil1 ESP 5W-30. Owning the car for close to 4 years and only periodic maintenance was needed to be done. And as per onboard oil monitor system. It’s that simple and peaceful to maintain this car, if done the right way.. 😇✌🏼

Only those ones with poor maintenance or timely maintenance with poor knowledge. Car needs fully synthetic oils with XW-30 viscosity and with ACEA conformity as per the manual. Many people including Stafford put semi-synthetic oils to this car. Early days Mobil Super 2000 was used, now they used Motul 4100. If you check the history of those cars with busted turbos or other issues, they were at some point were subject to this improper maintenance. so failures were inevitable, especially these issues which doesn't come immediately. I've used Mobil1 ESP (following the owners manual) from Day1 and haven't had a single issue with the car.

Brake pads are freaking expensive at that place anyways. I got both front and back of my car replaced in Jan last year for 16K with OEM (Ate and Cifam) from UK. Through a friend who came down from UK.

Are you sure about the 35K ODO? At that mileage shocks cannot go bad unless the previous owner has used it to transport goods instead of using it as a car.