NeroX

Agreed! Driven both the cruze & the swift. Have to say love the cruze way better. Spare part issue is there but understand its quite a relative thing. As schiffer said you just might have to look around a little harder, but stuff is there. Keep the cruze & do some cosmetic mods to keep things interesting. Youd be happier in the long run

Believe me still the cost of spares for this would be way less than say maintaining an euro. If you do have to change id say go for its cousin the HT swift. Basically the same car with all the benefits you have already on the cruze + better/cheaper spare part availability

For your requirements there's no other better option in that price bracket. Save on that money n just upgrade the cruze with either a new paint job, rims, sound system, upholstery etc. You'll be happier on the long run Its a very good car to own!

2.5M+ Manual 2.7M+ Auto

True on the space. But of all brandnew offerings in this price bracket the picanto has the best interior fit & finish. Plus the vehicle feels solid to the hand & simply reassures those safety ratings. Celerio is meant to save fuel hence the lightweight panels & cheap plastics. Going solely by the two denominators on fuel efficiency & spare parts availability celerio wins hands down. But if youre willing to compromise on the added fuel & maintenance cost you'd get a nice looking car with better safety & ride quality. Just make sure you dont have above average sized family/friends who cant fit in it.

Facing the same issue. In my case after switching the ac compressor on/off several times gets it working. I got it checked & apprently when I switch on the ac the power flows to the compressor but it doesnt engage. I initially thought it must be the pressure switches but the garage guys are saying that theyve tried replacing that on several puntos but the problems keeps re-occuring. Their recommendation is to replace the whole compressor

Hes supposed to be the best around for all fiats

Transmission fluid was all good. Its been replaced at the right time at the agents. I've actually replaced the fork by now as upon inspection the fork was found to be damaged. Everything was smooth afterwards with no judder but yesterday the gearbox suddenly refused to engage on a cold start. Without the engine the gear changes are shown on the dash, but with engine ON the the dash shows N & gears jump around with the vehicle shuddering. Nws after switching off the car for 15-20 mins it was all good to go. On my way back when accelerating at a traffic light again the issue resurfaced with the gears refusing to engage. Again after switching off for sometime everything was good. I've noticed recently that when putting the gear to N after reversing, the gears jump between R & N for no reason. This morning again the car is driving quite normally. My mechanic is quite adamant that my pump is of good condition too. Its not running continuously so guess the accumulator is of good condition too. Area of doubt is the control unit & the actuator. Does anyone have experience troubleshooting these parts? Quite lost on how to recover this otherwise beauty of a car.

Bought a GP after a back crunching, mind boggling vehicle hunt. My GP is a little shaky on its 1st two gears. Once when breaking hard the gear disengaged & gave the check transmission error. Any idea how to get it fixed. Will replacing the gear fork solve the issue?

Anybody having experience with magictouchup nugegoda/jaela? How good are their work. Need to fix some dents & scratches

Thats a bit too much isnt it. Isnt this just some cosmetic changes above the normal?

Under so much frustration over this government's constant incompetence. The constant change in duty rates have returned us to the era of vehicle's becoming appreciating assets. Was going through some classifieds & its hilarious have some of the used car prices have jacked up. 141s/FDs 3m -> 3.7m+. Swift ZC71s style package which I once bargained 6 years back for 2.6m now goes for 3.2m. Heck I sold my 2010 GE6 a year ago for 2.5m now cant even find one for 3m. Extremely sorry for the bickering but I needed to let out some steam. On the decision to be made, I might settle for a picanto given the other options. Its bit of a cramped xp from what I'm used to but the fit & finish is quite nice compared to the others. Plus its a 1000cc engine. KIA lanka also provides a good 100,000km warranty but how good they'd honor it yet to be seen. Only thought bothering me right now whether it would make better sense to buy an older car like maybe an old euro, one of those fiat puntos or even a good ole jap like a galant/Ti carina. Hmmm choices choices...

Im okay with something that does at least 10km/l. Wagon R is nice but dont know if that 660cc engines got oomph. Problem with second hand vehicles is that the prices are so bloated right now dont think theres much to consider. Any good models that comes to mind?

Planning to buy a decent car below 3mn. Driving close to 80km daily. I know its really bad timing to buy a car. But does this car make sense for 2.7m? Anybody who has xp owning one

To address OP's question, check out the following translated comparison of different grades. (I'm no way advertising these guys but the translation given is way better than google translate) http://cars.kkleads.com/whatyoucanbuy/brandnewcars/toyota/packages

Hey iRage! Let the kid buy his car men. Don't you know getting a car for cheap has bragging rights nowadays. He might get lucky & get away with a small defect, if not its a good learning. I'm sure his family could afford that 3M easily. Also since his sis is driving we can assume she won't drive fast. So even in an accident no metal bars can come up from messed up crumple zones firing that thing up or pile-driving the driver

Well if you're objective is to get a reliable hybrid car for dirt cheap, an R grade GP1 is the best choice. Make sure you get a high mileage one. It'll give you fuel economy a little better than a Maruti. With the money you save you could easily get a new paint job done if the panels don't match & even get a new battery if they've knocked that also. Good luck with your buy bro! Post some pics when you get down the machine (y) Cheers!!!

Agree with iRage. The whole auction business is quite messy. As you correctly said even graded vehicles could be R types which have been repaired an auction sheets forged. Unless you have someone there to personally to inspect the vehicle there's no way of knowing. A R grade is bound to be even worse. Remember that nowadays even condemned vehicles can be repaired to look good, but god knows how long they'd run. A friend of mine thought the same as you & got down a R grade axio. Once he got it down, on his way back from Mattala the car indicators went crazy & he got a permanent ABS fault indication. He somehow got the vehicle out of E01 & put the car for inspection at toyota lanka. There he realized the vehicle had undergone far worse accident than indicated by the auction sheet. The auction sheet only showed one of the rear fenders being repaired, but the inspection showed that the opposite side front fender was also repaired & the ABS sensor wiring was messed up. It seemed the impact from behind made the car go hit from front as well. Luckily repairing the wiring sorted the issue, but he certainly lost the love for his car. The guy who imported refused to return the car as the Auction Report didn't mention any issue. So unless you want to go through something like that, save up & buy a properly graded car. If budgets are tight, buying a well-maintained specimen locally with proper history will make much more sense financially.

Wow Komi! That's one great write-up. You just made me wanna keep my FIT This being my first car it shares a lot of good memories. You just showed me how to keep it interesting & unique.That k20 conversion just gave me goosebumps. If that's possible then definitely I have something to look fwd to. As you said maybe my budget wouldn't permit a swap right now. But definitely something I'd consider in the future. Keeping that in mind maybe I could start with the strut setup & coil over kits. Those things would be valid for the future swap as well I guess. I'm currently running my tyres stock size(14") so maybe that needs changing too. Also in terms of the engine guess id go with the minor tweaks you mentioned for now. I'll PM you for the contacts. Thanks man!!

Performance over cosmetics! Engine mods, Suspension tuning, Struts bars etc. The stock FIT as it is, has some body roll when taking corners. Also at higher speeds it doesn't feel as planted due to it being so lightweight. Wanted to go with strut bars but no idea which ones would make the most sense. Front struts, Rear anti-roll bar or the whole setup? Also in tight spots always feel the engine needs a little oomph. Dunno with what mods to start with. Cat back, Cold air intake, exhaust manifold etc. Also somewhere I read whatever engine mods being done the ECU just remaps everything for better fuel consumption. Would appreciate if you could recommend some good ppl to get these looked at. Also from your experience which mods would be best to start with, giving you more bang-for-buck? OR as clarkson said is it better to just go for a Lancer Ex & try modding it later. Even though it shares the same chassis with the Evo that also has an underpowered 1.5l engine right?

Hey! I currently drive a GE6 Honda Fit, which I love to bits but lately feel is lacking a bit of oomph. Plus thanks to its hybrid variant has become quite a common sight on Sri Lankan roadways. I've got some money available & am wondering whether it would be wiser to try & mod my current car OR upgrade to something a bit more capable. My budget could get me a second-hand Honda FD1 or a Lancer Ex. I've read extensively that even the L15A(1.5l) engine which comes in the RS version has its limitations with performance upgrades. Mines the L13A(1.3l) version. Hence the feeling that money spent on a bigger setup would be better than upgrading an already smaller engine. In your opinion what would be the better bet. Thanks!

Hey carfreak! Mine's a GE6. I think all JDM GE6's came with the 1.3l iVTEC engine, with the exception of the Fit RS(GE8) which came with a 1.5l iVTEC. All these versions were equipped with the CVT gearbox. From what I've heard the previous gen GD1's had the issue with the gearbox. Most of which was ironed out in the GE6. The earlier one had to have the CVT oil replaced every 10k to avoid the issue whereas on the GE6 every 40k would do. Check out this page. This guy seems to have a lot better experience with the issue (http://rayazmuthalif.wordpress.com/2008/07/08/how-to-avoid-cvt-gearbox-failures-in-honda-city-fit-jazz-a-sri-lankan-perspective/) I've replaced mine just to be safe when I bought the car. It cost me arnd Rs.8k for 4 litres back in Feb '12 at Stafford Motors. Have clocked nearly 25k & still no issue as such. Haven't come across any other GE6 owner with issues either. So I guess its safe to assume its not a critical case if well maintained.

All JDM Fits come equipped with the iVTEC version & before anyone goes on criticizing the L series engine against their K series or B series motors do take a look at the following to appreciate the tech. Believe me when I say it is anything but a boring motor to drive compared to its alternatives http://asia.vtec.net/Series/FitJazz/lseries/

I'd definitely go for the Honda Fit! Drive one daily & it's the most fun little hatchback I've driven in that price range. Does around 15kmpl on average(mind you this is 50% highway & 50% urban - Jaela to Horana). Worse done would be around 12-13kmpl in Colombo traffic & have done close to 18kmpl way back from Kandy. Lately alternate with a corolla 121, which I guess does something little less but can't say for sure cause what I drove had a 1.6 engine. The Fit felt more nimble on its feet whereas the corolla was more of a steady ride good for cruising.

Seriously chams you gotta grow some b*lls & stop getting personal with names n stuff. Its better for everyone if we discuss the topic at hand. I think its beyond doubt that by now the 2nd hand market for hybrids are very much in question. Whatever the outcome you have to accept that you dont know rats ass about maintaining a hybrid by yourself whereras most of these gentlemen here are quite versant with their petrol engines than you'd ever will be with your IMA hybrid. So sadly we wont be seeing any hybrids selling for absurd prices like a 20 year old gasoline only corolla.