john cooper

It is booked for the Battery replacement today. (depending on the weather) Once all is done, this will replace one of our other business vehicles.

Santa is home lol Spoken with a VW DSG tech and he advised to scan with a code reader, so I bought a $20 scanner and went for the final Go No-Go Jump-started and scanned the vehicle and no codes. Plugged a cigarette port USB splitter with a Voltage indicator, it indicated 13.9 - 14.1 V Done about a 30-minute drive, trust me I gave a good blast. On a gravel road checked the diff lock + diff lock and reverse up a slight hill a few times and back. Checked for any codes and nothing. Found the “Full” dealer service history book in the glove box, which sealed the deal. It is unusual to have a full dealer service for fleet cars but this was unusual. Bought a battery on my way which needs to be fitted. Thank you @iRage for your support!!

This is nothing like that, drives fine. The only issue after that jump start. But on the purchase report it says “Transmission Failed” 😅😅 Therefore the vehicle was damaged Auction

I have rung Hyundai NZ, since I heard about DCT issues with Hyundai models. They have checked the VIN and advised that the car wasn't part of the defective DCT campaign.

The online tool indicates that the Century DIN75LHX MF Ultimate Performance is the fitment for the car, CCA 730 Once installed, I would get a code reader guy to clear all the fault codes. Finers and Toes crossed, no gearbox issue

Okay, here it is and I won the auction for 2022 Santa Fe Diesel Now let's get the Battery replaced. This has a CCA 660 Euro type battery. I believe there is no harm in going to 720 CCA???

Thank you, iRage, for the quick note. The car was faultless after running for a good 20 minutes. I will keep you all posted tomorrow morning, if I have won it or not

Hi team, I’m considering purchasing a 2022 Hyundai Santa Fe CRDi with the 8-speed DCT (Dual-Clutch Transmission), which has done close to 200,000 km. The vehicle is being sold through a damage auction tomorrow, the 23rd Oct lol 😅 I’ve test driven the vehicle twice on separate days: First Test Drive: The vehicle needed to be jump-started as it was hesitant to start. After starting, I let it idle for around 5 minutes. The drive was smooth with no noticeable issues during that session. Second Test Drive (a couple of weeks later from the 1st test): Again, the car required a jump-start. I let it idle for 5–10 minutes before shifting into Drive. This time, the transmission started in D2 instead of D1. After moving a few feet, the car stopped responding to throttle input and would not rev up. I shifted into Reverse, but the car didn’t move. The “R” indicator on the dashboard was blinking, and again, it hesitated to rev or engage. Switching back to Drive, it continued to start in D2 and showed the same symptoms. No warning lights (Check Engine, Transmission, or Battery) were present on the dashboard. To troubleshoot: I turned the car off, got out, locked the doors, waited for about 30 seconds, and then restarted the vehicle. This time, it started normally. Drive engaged with D1, and Reverse also worked as expected. I drove the car for around 20 minutes, and it operated normally with no issues. After returning, I turned the vehicle off and restarted it multiple times, testing both Drive and Reverse, but could not replicate the earlier problem. Question: Could this issue be related to low battery voltage affecting the solenoids in Transmission or TCM? Or is it more likely to be a transmission (DCT) issue?

@GummybrYour turn mate

I think you have picked up the grill design and picked up the model? It is the President

Here is the next

Paj Type 73 (I think this model is 1993 - 1997) Saw one of them on the SL news not long ago

@GummybrYou are the 1st to give the hint, so your turn

D Max or MUX both have the same face. lol

Ferrari 360 Spider