Mean Green z28

LOL at Mani's posts ... you my friend have a LOT of experience with Forums and Keyboard Ninjas and it shows ... I've had my share of battles too and have just graduated to Black belt!

Awesome car man, I've always loved the STis and that there is a CLEAN example of why I love them! Congrats!

Thanks guys ... lol, I haven't been on here since last week (been busy with work and shyt)

a rotten egg smell is usually a bad catalytic convertor

Awesome pics. man, looks like a boatload of fun. I soooo want to buy a bike but the family has kinda put a foot down on that one ... lol Sad to hear you sold the Supra ... just hope you didn't sell it to that idiot Nick Hogan who totaled his yellow one. Tell me it's not yours repainted yellow...

sorry for taking so long to reply ... forgot about this thread puts down 401HP/380TQ approx to the rear wheels on our dyno and that's with a really restrictive exhaust, it's since been opened up, but I've had no time to strap it down. I'm expecting something like 425RWHP for now ... I'm pretty happy 'cos that means I'm producing somewhere like 475-500 at the crank. http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery....amp;carid=15906 And a +1 for Dimitri on photography, Dude did my wedding (pictures and video) and did one heck of a job !!!

DAMN YOU MAN, Say it already ..lol

Lol ... The story of "The Mutt" ... or as people say "it's Mutt-iculous!!!" lol Started off life as a '94 Camaro Z28 with a LT1/Auto drivetrain but now all that's left is the body and everything's been rebuilt/replaced/updated and swapped with a 6.0ltr LS1/T56 manual tranny with parts from many different models/years ... hard to keep track so it's lovingly named "The Mutt"

So, I just played around with some of the older pics. I had from a while back. Ofcourse, my positioning of the car wasn't good so the shadows get in the way ... I've been told that many times and hopefully I'll know better next time *doh* ... too cold outside to take better pics. Also, the car sits much lower than this now 'cos the new suspension setup went in after these pics. were taken. 1. 2. 3. 4.

Nice ride bro ... HEY, I'll be coming up "again" the first weekend of April (4-6?) ... we should meet up

That car is just pure SEX !!!

that other truck is def. a full size Chevy Silverado pickup .. by the looks of it though, it looks like a HD version so it 'could' have a turbo diesel in it

I'm sure you can do a search online for the weight of it per square foot area.

Yup this stuff works pretty well to absorb outside noise and prevent vibration. Two things to remember ... it's heavy and it costs a lot to do the whole interior of the car. They do offer small kits for specific areas where sound absorption/vibration reduction is most wanted but they're usually a pre-cut piece of about 1-2 sq.ft. for places like around the speakers in the doors, front bulkhead, trunk, etc. I've driven in some cars that had the whole interior covered in that stuff and you literally feel like you're in a Mercedes when in reality, you're in a Kia ... lol ... no unwanted noises from vibrations/outside sounds ... just feels well put together ... but, heavy! Here's a link to a thread where the guy used a different brand (cheaper) for his whole car ... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=483439

Old thread but nobody's answered the first question ... 33X12-R15 ... I had these sized tires on my Toyota and it needed a lift kit to fit well 'cos the tires would rub when the steering was turned. 33 = 33" tall 12 = 12" wide R = speed rating (R=170km/h) 15 = rim size oky doky ... I'm out!

The police are on lookout for that guy now ... supposedly, they didn't like the fact that he endangered the lives of other motorists and posted up the vid. bragging about it and challenging others to beat his record ... duh!

It depends on what the RPM gauge accepts as a reference signal. Will he be using an aftermarket gauge? I'm guessing yes, since you say the car didn't come with one. If the sensor gives out a pulsed signal, which is most common (+ or -, again depends on the required input for the gauge being used), you can run the wire up to the gauge and depending on the settings, should show an accurate reading. This is only an overview of the system, it may be completely different on your friend's car.

Most cars have to be programmed to the remote, not the other way like you think (most cars). You just have to make sure your car can receive that certain range of frequency, hence the range of remotes available. It's something like you jump a wire between two of your OBD port pins and then press the remote button and then the vehicle will remember it ... atleast, that's how it was on my car. Can you ask someone who has a similar car to yours if you can take a look at their remote and figure out what numbers they have on it? It's not like you can steal their code by looking at it. Even though the model number maybe the same, the transmitting code will be different.

Hey, I'm a short drive from you guys. Didn't know there were so many of you really close. I'm in MD (Baltimore area) so give me a shout and we can meet up! There's a bunch of racers who meet up in the PA area if you guys are up for it.

I'm sure YOU had fun! lol, I'll be in Toronto on Thursday! (scarboro?)

Well, you're going to get better mileage outside the city nomatter what octane fuel you use 'cos there's less traffic and you're moving at a more fuel efficient speed, so unless you say that it was back to back runs in the same car in the same weather conditions on the same road with the same amount of traffic with the exact same throttle input throughout the whole journey ... you just can't prove it was the higher octane that helped get more mileage out of a tank. Maybe you did get better mileage, but did that percentage in mileage improvement offset the cost of the initial purchase of the higher octane fuel? Here in the US, the only good thing about using a better fuel is the additives each company uses in their fuel to keep engine deposit buildup to a minimum (i.e. - carbon buildup in the intake/valves/etc.). Even then, it's more of a marketing ploy to get people to buy their brand.

It depends on the vehicle. You really don't need a higher octane than required. Sometimes, you may even do worst 'cos you'll just be losing power due to the factory set timing (higher octane burns slower so you need more advanced timing for a higher octane fuel). You really need to have the engine built/tuned to get the full potential of a higher octane fuel. Save your money and have a nice snack everytime you fill up.

With the climate in SL, you really don't need 5W-30. Don't worry too much about the W number 'cos you're never gonna see winter, but using a 30-40 weight for SL would be ideal. If you have a higher mileage car, go for a heavier oil like a 40 to account for engine wear.

Paint the rear axle/diff.? Possible, but a pain in the ass right now and it's not gonna do anything for performance and it's under the car. Later. Arc Angel ... They're Koni shocks all the way around. They're the best I could find within my budget and the only ones that can handle the spring rates I wanted (all other brands like Bilsteins/etc. fail after a few months with the high rates). The coil over spring setup is from Ground Control (www.groundcontrol.com). The springs rates are 550 lb/in in front and 175 lb/in in the rear. ruwan67 ... the black bar would be the sway bars. They were upgraded to larger diameter hollow for better cornering/less weight.

It was a minor pain in the ass 'cos the kit didn't exactly go together (had to take the front shock tops apart and had to make my own tool to do that) but all the bitching and swearing was worth it 'cos now I can set the ride height to ANYTHING I want and the shocks are fully tunable on their damping. This thing handles like it's on rails!!!! Sorry no pics of before after right now but I'll post some later when I get the car cleaned up and the ride height adjusted after the springs settle, but here's pics from the install :grin: ... click for larger and more pics. in the album.