Mean Green z28

just got new wheels for the Legacy. The 19" rims weren't gonna work out in the winter due to their design inherently collecting water in the barrels between two ridges; thereby causing the wheel to go out of balance at highway speeds. These are 18" and a manageable size/weight

well, I guess it also depends on how you drive so maybe I didn't do what it was expecting me to do, lol. I know for a fact that in any car, if you slowly roll into the throttle at say 30mph (example only) then it'll shift later 'cos it probably passed the shit point/RPM/speed setting within it's tables. But if you slam the pedal down at 30mph, it'll probably be at the point where it's like "OH SHIT I NEED TO SHIFT DOWN NOW NOW NOW!!!" lolI used to play around with the programming on my auto trans back in the day. There were two maps I could play with on my Camaro (originally on the TransAm but I figured out the wiring and did it on my car too); one map for daily driving, and another for performance driving. You had to hit a momentary button and it'll switch between the two modes (indicated by a light). So I tuned the normal mode to shift into high gears quicker and keep the engine rpm's as low as I could during city driving and hold gears longer to get into the power band during performance mode. It was fun experimenting... I'm guessing these cars were not in "race" mode, lol

wow didn't know you were in the east coast till recently; just read your blog, good stuff!!Yeah, it would've been funny had to just randomly met

oh the Ferrari sounded the best. It just sounds like a racecar with that high pitched soundtrack; it even idles pretty high. However, the Lambo is just brawn and guts and sounds meaner and more muscular with the V10 ... and it's got the AWD! Between the two, I'd go for the Lambo ... don't know why

so how's the new owner doing without A/C in SL ?? or does this have it installed? lol

if I'm replacing pads, even if the rotor isn't warped, I always get a very light cut done so the surface is perfect for a new pad to bed into. The initial heat cycles/bedding process is critical and if done wrong could cause issues like weak performance/squealing/etc. sometimes that may require a resurface and re-bedding. If your rotor is glazed all the way around with grooves running the circumference, I'd definitely get them cut before new pads (again, due to the bedding procedure with new pads). Also, as a practice, I don't like resurfacing rotors more than once since it's rare that a rotor isn't even slightly warped after use and it takes a lot of material off to bring it back within tolerable runout/etc. ... and all that material being removed means the rotor has less material to absorb/dissipate the heat and means it would warps earlier/faster than the last time ... hope that makes sense.

I think the F430 was more responsive than the Gallardo and I also felt a bit more comfortable in it; due to the car or the fact that I'd already driven the track before, not sure. You could def. see I was getting into it a bit earlier and was braking later in the F430 ... thanks guys, it was a small dream come true

Bought an Imagine LifeStyles driving event through Groupon to drive either a Lamborghini or a Ferrari for 3 laps. Signed up for 3 extra laps and my first choice was the Lamborghini Gallardo; wasn't sure which Ferrari they would bring 'cos it had multiples in their images on their website (wow, look at me being so picky about a car I'd probably never be able to own, lol). However, when we arrived at the event, they were all F430's so we wiggled our way into the Ferrari line for the extra 3 laps, lol. Bought the picture/video package so here's the vids from the GoPro Warning ... it was only the 2nd time on a track for me, the last time was in a Cobalt at the GM event ... so I was pretty damn nervous and also wanted to learn as much as I can from the professional instructors who rode with us. I didn't have to impress anyone by driving like a bat out of hell; it was more about enjoying the experience than testing limits of the car or myself First 3 laps in the Lambo ... first time in such an expensive car, nervous as shyt and didn't know the course or what to expect of the car, so it was a bit slow at first. Also, they had the trans in full auto so we were at the mercy of whatever it did, and for some reason it was pretty laggy. You'll hear me get on the throttle; and think I'm easing into it, but it's actually mashed to the floor. Sometimes it decided to downshift, sometimes it just didn't, oh well ... it handled pretty nice though Second was in the F430, and the dude before me messed up the clutch when he came to the pit 'cos he was still on the throttle and braked and did some bs thing and all we smelled outside was burned clutch ..F. So when I got in the car, the clutch was super grabby and ready to die ... you'll see me stall out when I try to ease into it in the beginning. It was the second time stalling it, lol. Said F 'it and lightly goosed it to get it rolling out of the pit lane; you'll hear the thing clanking and clanking. On the track though, it was much quicker than the Lambo and handled much better too (but the Lambo did have a certain charm to its handling though). You'll see me getting into this a bit more 'cos I was a bit more familiar with the track and the car was more responsive...

wow love those wheels

Isn't the RA a stripped down version without AC etc?

probably peanut allergies? lolThe reason it works is because it replenishes the oils into the rubber

I was gonna say peanut butter ... and then read your last line, lol

congrats again dude!

your physics are correct, but the result of it is completely wrong. Yes, coolant makes it boil at a higher temperature and that is a GOOD thing. Why? Because it can still keep circulating through your system at a higher temp and keep working to get that heat out when the plain water has already turned into steam. Ofcouse this would only come in to play should you have a different issue causing higher temps like a bad thermostat.This is a benefit in addition to coolant's anti-corrosive and heat transfer properties

probably different flow rates. Check part numbers and do a search to figure out what they are. You don't wanna end up with a wrong flow rate, unless you're going to tune it to the new injectors.

Vibration is okay, just hope it doesn't reach it's resonant frequency while you're up there lol

lol yeah I was using a Harlan shift light. Im not the first and am def not the last. Unlike the article, I took mine apart and extended the wires for the light and mounted the controller somewhere easy to get to when I needed to adjust settings. It's a common mod, but each person does it differently and mounts it differently. Actually, plagiarism in the car modding world is expected and is more or less a complement! haha, hope someone takes my terminal strip idea and rolls with it...

Yeah too many damn projects! ahaha. Thanks for the advice guys. I'll probably sell here as is or get it repaired eventually.

Yeah it's not easy with a curious 2yr old waking around and bumping his head everywhere. He likes to act like he's driving, so he'll sit on the driver seat (first one i cleaned up) and make "brrmmmm brmmmm beep beep" noises or take his tricycle, ATV or little car and push them around the driveway. Almost finished cleaning the whole interior up today, all that's left is to give it all a nice coat of armorall Protectant and we should be done. Will shampoo The carpets later though. There was so much crap/junk/bottles/cans/etc. Scattered and under the seats/etc. it took almost two garbage bags to empty it all out!!! They also prob spilled coffee on the dash, so I had to take apart the dash and even the ac controls (yeah, took all the electronics apart too) and clean it all out indevidually cos it was all stuck together like glue. Still trying to find an engine for a decent price and locally. Not in a rush to drop more money yet cos we're planning on a SL trip this summer. On another note, I put the bike up for sale and sold it for $425 within two days. So only $75 out of pocket for now ... Got the bike for free a few months ago too haha

The time came and I was ready to get rid of the family car. Fuel prices are expected to go up and a gas guzzling SUV wasn't an option I wanted to be stuck with. After going over my options of buying a used vehicle and my finances, we decided to go with a Ruby Red 2011 Legacy 2.5i Premium. Getting a pretty decent trade-in offer on the truck made the deal just right too. Nothing fancy, not-turbo, a few options to keep the wife happy and AWD to keep us on the road in the winter. Having a 4x4 SUV kinda spoiled us, so AWD was a minimum. I was pretty impressed with the rear seat room 'cos we need to have a baby seat in there for my son. It rides pretty nice and the suspension is firm while not being too harsh. The CVT transmission is taking some getting used to with its unlimited gearing, but the manual mode with the 6-ratios is fun. Trying to keep the RPM's low 'cos we have barely 600miles on her right now. Hopefully I'll decide to keep her (currently leasing) and start modding; Planning on tint, and hopefully a nice set of wheels. The 16" alloys look really tiny under that huge body/wheel arches. I was propositioned by MotoMag to write a review and get a bunch of pics on it so hopefully, you'll will see that on the mag if everything goes well. Only sad news it that the day after we bought her home, we were driving and the truck next to us must've run over a rock ... it flung it at the passenger door and put a pretty big dent on it; NOT EVEN 24HRS OF OWNING HER!!!! Door will need to be repainted when we're ready to get it fixed ... CrAP!@

First off, if you have road grime inside your light, you have more issues than a fogged up lens; they're supposed to be sealed, lol either way, if you want to take yours apart for any reason here's the way you do it.... You actually have to put your headlight in the oven; yes you heard me right, OVEN! Some people have messed up and melted the plastic but if you get the temp just right and don't overheat it, it will get the glue to soften up just enough that you can pry the headlight apart. Clean up inside, paint it if you want, put some RTV around the seal and put it back together ... http://www.fbodyonline.com/forum/f26/whistler-headlight-mod-98-02-camaro-3541/

I just got mine this last weekend! new to this shit ... I'll let you know when I create an online ID/etc. That Zonda is fast as shit! unfortunately, I'm still starting out so I've yet to get any cool cars; haven't even made it past my licensing yet, haha

that's coming along nice Mani! Keep the updates coming!

yes, it's good to have a coat to protect it from UV rays that can harm the plastic covers. Mine, over the years, had got real bad and I cleaned them up myself. I used 600, 1000, 2000 grit wet sandpaper until I was happy with the finish (it's matt finished at this point, don't be scared) and then used swirl and haze remover and polishing compound to finish off and make it clear and shiny before sealing it with a wax. Took me about half hour per side but the results were worth it. pics ... http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery....amp;carid=15951

that's what I'm getting at, pick a name brand synthetic oil and stick to and you'll have no issues. A good brand would also clean up the gunk in your engine (within reason) over time. I used to do this kinda service all the time and people used to come to us and ask for a flush and we'd take a quick peak in the oil cap and say "no, you don't need it, just switch to a good brand of oil and follow the maintenance schedule to the dot and you'll be thanking us down the road". The only reason you would even change a synthetic oil is because the additives (for sludge removal/etc.) break down, not the oil itself. bingo!