terrabytetango

I'm in the market for a new car, and have looked at a few during the past few days. Being a n00b to the whole car hunting experience, one thing I've come to realize how frivolously people throw around terms like "Mint Condition" and "Excellent Condition". As an example, I went to look at a car posted here on A/L, apparently in "mint" condition. The reality was that the front bumper was half falling off, several scuff marks on both sides of the body, and a dent on the rocker panel with corrosion. And don't even get me started on the interior. When contacted prior to the visit, the seller was insistent the car was in the described condition. The pics in the advert had crucial detail obscured by the watermark, especially the front and rear quarters where the bumper lines up with the quarter panel/fender, and I have noticed this in a few other listings as well. So my question is, is this the norm or was I just unlucky in driving all the way to disappointment? And more importantly, do potential buyers even care about the adage used by sellers?

They're both exactly the same car, both mechanically and the interior. The only difference is the skin. And you do realize the whole "image" thing associated with both cars is nothing more than a marketing gimmick yes? In the end it boils down to which design you like better, rather than being a herded sheep.

I drove a friend's Saturn during my stay in the states. It was mechanically quite similar to the Chevy Cobalt I had at the time, even sharing some of the interior components.

Toyota Starlet KP61.

Any idea about the toll payment structure? Like if they'll use some kind of electronic prepaid system?

Noted

Exactly, it's the love I have for the ruddy thing, never let me down ever, so I rarely push it into the extremes. I'm quite at home doing 100-120 in vehicles (with engines) better equipped to handle those speeds.

You think so Supra? Up close it looks like an Orc gave birth to a deformed baby... Your turn.

This vehicle is parked in the company garage today, next to a black KR- reg Range Rover.

It's 12V. I thought 24V vehicles only used 24V for the starter and main engine electrics, while accessories and lighting are supplied 12V. Edit: Bought the stuff from ebay 2 years ago when I decided to get HID lighting. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find 24V LED lights as well.

Well load resistors are only used for the blinkers. Your parking lights will still be a lot more energy efficient when compared to filament bulbs.

I use LEDs for all lights other than head lamps. The signal light kit I got came with load resistors for each bulb, to control the blink rate.

vw karmann ghia

Unfortunately my vehicle uses only 2 bulbs, so I've fitted bi-xenons. I think the LEDs are at least as bright as halogens, if not more.

Igniter is used each time the light is turned on, just like a regular fluorescent lamp. This why flashing headlights is bad for them, and suggested LEDs.

Oh the engine is more than up to it, always starts on first turn. I just don't like pushing the engine that far because I've found that it does best on fuel at a constant 60-70km/h. Wheels are 14 inch 165 items, with the smallest offset possible so that they stay inside the tire wells. After market seats also installed, none of that rotatable crap though.

4500K/4300K would be perfect. I've seen some pretty powerful H4 LED units, they're consist of clusters of high flux LED, which do get warm at normal operating voltages, as opposed to the regular kind we're used to. But, as always, I'd suggest comparing with your existing lights first though.

I wonder if its time I traded in my Townace for something slightly faster. I rarely push it past 80, and I fear I will be at a disadvantage by simply trying to merge into the highway (0-60 next tuesday).

Too bad you already have Xenon HID for high beam. Else you could've tried LED bulbs for high beams, and HID for lows. LED would mean you wouldn't have to worry about destroying your ballast and igniters when flashing your high beams. And +1 for 4300K bulbs, they're the most practical, and simply lovely in the rain. I would set the upper limit at 6000K; 8000K is only good if you want to look cool. I've been running HIDs in my CR27 since May 2009 without any issues, save for a solenoid in the right side bulb which sometimes sticks, due to mishandling by the garage "technicians". Edit: Just saw that you want HID in your bumper. Might I suggest 3000K, aka golden yellow? They have the best visible light output, and difference between it and 8000k will be like day and night.

For a second, I thought the Audi was real. Nice photography.

I sometimes pump IOC Xtra Mile, normally Ceypetco blue. I've not noticed any ill effects, other than the (extra) hit my wallet takes. P.S. Mine is a 2C engine as well.

Also machan Harsha, please lower your head lamps once you get them so they don't blind oncoming traffic.

Some sellers don't ship to SL (mostly HK) because they have been burned by creeps who lie about not having received their package and ask for refunds. It's happened to me with a few sellers who previously shipped to SL. It isn't a big loss for them to exclude SL from their shipping locations.

+1 for the Trad Sunny