BLu3HaZe

Thanks a Great Lot bro!! Cleared up everything, the net is a confusing place with lots of stuff written everywhere and couldn't figure out properly. Thanks again!

Yup, seen the lightness come quite advantageous in some Junkyard Wars episodes too. A bike engine is nice but the normal stuff we have here seems to rev too much as they're all small. Seen great cars with the Busa engine, even Radical has them ne. About importing, is it legal to import bike engines with capacity more than 350cc or does it have to go the shady way? It'd be nice if you can give some more info on the import procedures etc. I've also bought a Seat Ibiza Cupra 1.8 turbo engine and GB in UK, don't know how to bring it here and costs involved, whether it's cheaper to buy from here or import that, as it came pretty cheap from a breaking for parts car You're still based in UK or now in SL?

Well yes there is a lot of rear leg room and the bubble shape with a greatly pushed forward engine has increased interior capacity a lot.. Also the flat rear floor without that hump which was there in older models makes it easy when 3 people are in the back. Access to the boot from inside comes quite handy in long journeys too

Well yes that's also a point to consider but if I can't find anything good enough as that, will have a go with a rotary. Oil consumption would be an issue though, right? In any case, don't think it'd go waste as another friend needs a good engine for a Mazda normal car to be modified Not many high capacity petrols to be found here ne? Checked at Ch*rlt*n and it was pretty expensive, and they had normal 1.3, 1.5 and diesel van/lorry engines mostly. EFI would be much easier to tune when hooked upto a comp so a 4A-GE with turbo would be great. A carb model would make things easier as you say, but are they easy to find? What were good 2L ones that came and is common enough to be found and cheap? Yea cast iron is tougher for high boost than aluminium blocks and heads, but it's hard to find all iron engines now isn't it? Most have Al alloy heads and don't want it blown through. Also a big turbo and big power would be nice but would give too much turbo lag and hurt low down power with too much back pressure. Still can't decide what to try and find with the very limited availability If a diesel is putting out 1000hp, it'd be making atleast 1500+ Nm of torque and that'd need a 4WD system or drag tires to put the power down

Not really sure about the condition as the engine has been opened only once due to a kick starter problem and none of the internal parts replaced. And last time I took it to fix an electrical issue to another place in Hindagala, with headlights being too dim and battery going flat after being out of use for a few days, the guy had spliced most of the wires everywhere, put in some Bajaj 12V part and converted the whole thing with 12V bulbs etc., now it's a mess with wires of all colours everywhere And also had replaced the oil which we had done a few weeks before without even asking, so you reckon it'd be worth opening up the whole engine and replacing gaskets and seals? Maybe then but this was some external parts, will take again sometime and see. Thanks for the info! I'll check with them and let you guys know how it comes. And post some pics after everything is complete. Yes this too misses a lot and nearly dies for around 5 mins after starting, then after it heats up, goes onto overheat and die completely after sometime. Throttle is very hesitant and even a mild sudden turn kills the engine Is it ok like some say to replace the carb with a 22mm one? Is there anyone who's good at tuning these? The spark plugs and everything is original afaik, the NGK D-6 HW came with the bike, only the silencer has been replaced after rusting completely. Also there's another small problem with the GB, when moving from a stop, the throttle has to be kept slightly open by hand to not kill the engine, and when engaging the gear, it slips and goes 'kraaass', so have to put to neutral and back. Any idea why?

It's for a replica some of us are going to do, the first idea was an RR 997 but was scrapped as the VW chassis is too short and tuning properly would be a big problem and don't want anyone killed. So now settled for a MR layout and a body of a R8, F50 or LP500 as final, yet I need to source parts. I won't be doing the body but any idea how much a full fiberglass body along with lights and other stuff cost? So basically I should be looking for some Toyota engine and GB with high power output, and I'm sure the 20 valve would cost more than 100k? 4A-FE is nice and responsive but not that powerful and would be a flop if it looks fast on the outside but takes too long to accelerate, we had that engine in a Tercel before. Maybe a turbo will do. Or as MasterDon suggested, I'll check on the 13B, with twin turbo it should be good

Ok, thanks guys! So that means single light were Hurricane and MC14 & 17? Then Gullarm is dual light MC19 & 22 upto 94? And Fireblade is MC22 from 94-96? So which ones are the 45hp bikes and the 40hp bikes?

Meant when slowly creeping and also the stress on brakes trying to stop and engine trying to move forward, but not sure

Ah yes we took there once and think some parts have been changed by workers or so for non genuine ones, but if they have good parts, I'll check it out. Need the white fairing cuz it cracked, and not the Thailand one, original Jap one, any idea where to find? Yes the filter was changed recently cuz there was only the metal parts remaining, it doesn't run much, only 30k on the clock. Plug was re gapped, flush no I don't think so. Will do that and see, thanks for the suggestions! Oh and there is a slight oil squeezing out problem when running for more than 15 mins, not big but it comes out of the left side cover. What should be replaced? Thanks!

Hey thanks a lot bro! I was also thinking of the Beetle but thought the engine would be not powerful enough and a Subaru engine is a bit too expensive. Where can I find any 4A-GE's?? They are pretty rare right? I'd have a hunt around Kurunagala then, will let you guys know how it turns out. In the meantime, if you come across any battered Beetles, do send me a PM as the chassis should make it easy to work with. The Carina is FF layout right? But the AE86 had the same engine in FR layout so what transmission do you think would be suitable? This Sunday or last week? Was it auto or manual? Thanks for all the info!

Anybody?

Hey guys, Need to find a dead cheap car engine and transaxle or a transmission separate with a differential, any idea what would be suitable to look for? It's for a small project with some friends, so nothing fancy but looking for the cheapest possible way. What types/makes of engines should I look for and any ideas of places? Preferably around Kandy, though most stuff is pretty expensive here when I checked so if you guys know of any places where they have out of use stuff which don't cost too much, do let me know. If it's reasonable to come to Col to take it, wouldn't mind a visit either. Thanks!

Thought to bump this thread for all the 'Fuel Consumption' maniacs around AL lately And good reasoning guys!!

You're asking what people have asked before and there isn't a need to ask it again, instead you can just search and find answers for your questions most of the time. If you're so lazy - 1) Yes 1000cc is there, it's a 3 cylinder Daihatsu engine 2) Both are there 3) 1300cc is quite ok, 1L underpowered Solution? To what? Fuel consumption, around 10km/l in the city, 12-13km/l in long distances. 1L gives lower figures as I've heard as the car is 1 ton+ when loaded. Read through - http://en.wikipedia....oyota_KR_engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Belta

Not much money in hand, only cares about F/C for a cheap price, intends to run a lot (a person I know got an Indica again for the permit after selling what he had as he ran around 70000 km per year) and get rid of, not willing to take loans or lease etc. But it is a waste, many I know who got that stuff regret buying Indian vehicles for the permit after selling Japs.

Hasn't the 5 year ownership before selling been reduced to 3 years with the new circular?

You're welcome and makes no difference to the torque converter, though it's ok if you're getting stuck in the same place for more than a min as it'd stop trying to move the car forward while you apply brakes to stop it in one place. And in CVTs, it may reduce wear on the belt/s. But the TC will be rotating in any case. Load in the sense the power transmitted through the engine, so it may reduce wear on brake pads and the diff. Oh and if the ATF cooler part of your radiator isn't in good condition, on a very hot day if idling for a very long time boxed within a lot of other vehicles producing a lot of heat, the ATF may not cool down enough and properties may change or even boil, needless to say that's disastrous for the GB.

A bit, but surely not only one car will be there, I'm not saying loads of cars, atleast a few will do. An RX7 costs like 1-1.5M doesn't it? I'd bring one myself if I can get hold of one and could participate!

3.5 years, "Period between the date of first registration and the date of shipment (date of Bill of Lading) of the relevant vehicle shall be taken for the computation of the period of use."

Don't be so negative, there's 350Z, Supra, 300ZX, Skylines, RX7s, RX8s and stuff running around nah (though I dunno how many will like the idea)

Would they suddenly wear out after an ATF change? He should have noted same effects even before if not right?

Yes, check whether it's the correct oil for your GB as there are many types of oil, and you can refer to the owners manual to find out. Check this, might help - http://www.autolanka...g-power-ce-110/

ROFL Good one OP - I meant the Bluebird diesel version btw

1) Auto cars don't have a clutch, they have a torque converter 2) Did you use the correct grade of ATF?