The Stig

This is so confusing. Does oil come out when the cap is sealed and the engine is on?

This sound like a head gasket issue. You can look inside the cylinders anyways when you open it up for head gasket replacement, so you can decide at the time if you need an overhaul.

You need to get a learners insurance for the day. There are 2 insurance places within werahara to get this. Then they check the car and that's about it. Ps- this was the process about 8 years ago. I don't think much would have changed now.

You should not screw around with the throttle position, pun intended. The throttle position is set from the factory and shouldn't really be messed around with unless you have a way to read the voltages. You should adjust idle from the idle adjust screw, im not sure where exactly yours is located but it should be in parallel to the throttle plate. Also your throttle position is reset every time you reset your ecu (removing the battery) so there is no point in adjusting this. There is a minimum operating voltage for the tps (usually 0.20v) if you go below this it will give a check engine light.

You might be right. But op said the car starts and the stalls. So if his scanner can record the data parameters we should be able to figuee something out. Some post 1996 cars actually ran on obd2 protocols in the ecu but used obd1 proprietary connectors. I was hoping for a situation like this. Sent from my D6503 using AutoLanka.com mobile app

New tax system is based on CC (example - 1500cc X 3250) Old one was a percentage of the value of the vehicle (examples 150% of cif ) Under the new one there can be 2 vehicles with totally different values but if they fall under the same tax category both of them will be taxed the same amount. Therefore there is an advantage for more expensive yet smaller displacement vehicles.

IH01 = H4B its the same thing as H4, someone would have changed your headlight due to an accident or something. Just get 2 H4 bulbs.

Do you have the n16 facelift or the non facelift ? Are you referencing to the high and low bulbs within the same sides lights ?

Yes on both questions

There are adapters, places that scan vehicle will have them

Okay forget TVs, people buy lands for millions from property developers. Do they show the price they bought the land for and their final markup ? What im saying is that your argument makes no sense and even if they did show you what their markup actual tax amount is what exactly would you do ? Not buy the car ?

Of course they dont When you buy a tv does the seller show you the CIF of the tv + taxes and their markup ?

This would all be much easier if you can just plug in an OBD tool (or get someone from a garage that has one) and see the following parameters; Fuel system status / Fuel pump status Fuel pressure (this will tell you if the petrol pump is working fine) Fuel pulse width (this will tell you the duration injectors stay open) Short term fuel trim (this will tell you fuel usage on open loop/ cold start ) Long term fuel trim (this will tell you fuel usage on closed loop/ at operating temperature - if you can get the car to run this long) Spark advance / Timing advance / Ignition advance (based on the car this can be named differently, but it will tell you when your spark plugs are firing. At idle it should be negative 16 ish degrees. on load should go to the positive side)

Well here my 2 cents; Generally when you change ATF by removing the pan there is always lesser old atf coming out vs removing it via an exchanger. This is because there is atf left in the torque converter and the atf cooling tank in the radiator. But can there really be 4.7 L of ATF left ? The proper technique afaik is to add some new atf, while its draining to pump out the old ATF from within. This may use more ATF in the process. So maybe when the service manual says 9.7L they are referring to the total oil needed to fill + flush rather than the actual capacity the transmission holds ?

For thel hingannaas, yes !

Did you try to jump start the car or connect a different battery ? Dd you remove the battery terminals during your repair and what is your car ?

Agreed with the guys above, the average cost to do a service (flush, clean, re-gas) would be around 4-5k and you can go on for about 2 years if there are no leaks. So is it really worth it ?

Im using this, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-Bright-H4-HB2-Hi-Lo-Beam-P7-Led-Car-Headlight-Conversion-Kit-Fog-Lamp-Bulb/32659540601.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.q1Goh7 The price has dropped drastically, it was at about $45 when i bought it. I bought this particular one because you can adjust the focus and angle on this one as shown in the picture shown above. I hear lights with Philips lumileds perform better but they are touching the $80-90 mark and i wanted to try a normal one first. The low beam is pretty good to the point that you rarely need to use high beams, but the high beams scatter a little bit so i dont use it much. There is a slight glare but not as bad as fitting hids.

We have gone into length on the same topic. But to sum it up you can use HIDs on non projector headlight housings as long as HIDs came as an option from the factory, example in the case of the premio. There are 2 types of HID bulbs, D2S and D2R. D2S bulbs are designed for projectors and this is the one thats most commonly available. The reason why you cant focus the light is because xenon bulbs are longer and discharge point is further away from the reflector than in normal halogens. You cant adjust a bulb thats just not designed for your headlights. Moving onto D2R hids, these are designed to be specifically used in reflector housings and they have a coating on the the bulb which prevents glare. I have also fitted an LED h4 kit to my non projector headlights and so far they are pretty good. light output is better than osram night breakers, but is not upto HID levels of output. There is minimum glare cause my one also has a shield. But aftermarket LEDs cannot still match the light output of HIDs yet.

Did you try a place like Pet#o ? But if the difference is only around 6k when you buy a programming unit dont you think its worthwhile to get it done from a place that has experience in this sort of thing. That way the risk of incompatibility would not be an issue.

Best car ever !

Classic battle - Power vs Weight & Skills

Park lights should be T10 (check your vehicles service manual for the exact type). I bought these and they are a lot more brighter than the type you have shown. Your type is actually barely visible inside the headlight so dont waste money. Dome lights are called festoon lights and there are 2 types, one which is multi directional which is also more expensive and another which is unidirectional. Get the uni directional ones like this as there is no point in a multi directional bulb for the reading lights. They come in millimeters, 33mm, 34mm, 36mm etc. Find out the length of the bulb in your dome. Number plate lights should be t10 again but dont need higher end ones for this. The type you have shown is sufficient to light up the plates. Found this out the hard way, i replaced with bright white and now the center brake light is orange Need to add a load resistor for this for each bulb. a pair is about $ 4-5 COB leds have multiple diodes inside one chip area, it achieves the same effect as using multiple smds. But you can pack more diodes per area so light output is better compared to the smd of similar size and power.