Amila G

Thanks mate

Nilantha, thanks a lot for your detailed reply. By the way I saw that you have re-bored the engine and put new sleeves in could you explain a bit that why you needed to put new sleeves ? Wasn't the re-boring enough to fix the engine ? Or else did they phased out the old sleeve by boring and put a new one in ? The alpin pistons you used, are they larger than the original size or same as the original size ?

For all you prius owner wannabees... Just happened to see this, although a 1.8, a prius engine uses something called the Atkinson cycle which gives less power than a traditional 4 stroke engine. I always wondered why prius comes with a 1.8 and now I know why. One less reason to get a priusss... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atkinson_cycle

Got it thanks, will keep this info on hand deciding the fate of the van

Thanks a lot. Actually engine has the original pistons and it s never been bored/sleeved. From what I understand by your posts, the cylinders are just carved from the engine block and there are no sleeves originally in the engine, and putting new sleeves mean just put a metal cylinder (so called sleeve) into the existing block right ? or am I missing something ? Also do we have to machine the new sleeve , if we are going for re-sleeving than boring ?

Do you remember if it was re-bored or put new sleeves in ? btw t/belt + injectors are already replaced on mine. Did the fuel consumption or exhaust smoke improved after the overhaul ?

Thanks mate. Yup, I know. But I need to know if it s possible to re-sleeve the engine without re-boring it ? From what I found on the net, you put new sleeves in only if the original ones are worn so much that it cannot be bored out. To put a new sleeve you need to machine out the old one, put a new one in and machine it again to the piston size and it costs more to re sleeve than just to re-bore the existing sleeve. So I need to know if the mech is telling the truth and does a 2C really have sleeves or the cylinder is just carved out of the block.

Guys we have a townace CR27 with a very worn 2C engine and was thinking of an overhaul. Up to now I thought an overhaul on this engine means re boring the engine block, use new pistons, rings and so... and would cost north of 100K But a good mech I know suggested that I can remove the old sleves and put new ones in + put new piston rings and it' only cost about 40k. I actually did not know that a 2C engine had sleeves in the block and can be swapped like that instead of a re boring and using new pistons + rings ? Is it a good thing to swap the sleeves or is he trying to rip me ? Btw if it s possible why everyone spend 100k on a rebuid ? I'm quite puzzled and any help is highly appreciated.

They were all driving nicely... it's the other people who has not so nice rides drive like idiots... specially the ones with rextons, monteros and prados Anyway I'm not that worried about a panamera or a cayenne over speeding unless of course it's the teenage son of the owner who's behind the wheel..

Took E01 from Kottawa and it wasn't nice what I saw. Lots of vehicles coming towards kottawa and they had changed one entrance to be an exit . Lots of vehicles were running very close to each other and saw 1 rexton and one montero tailgating overtaking vehicles and flashing like crazy. These morons with big tinted SUV s think that everyone should move out when they come closer. At one time there were like 3 vehicles on the inside lane very close to each other, overtaking the others. If the E01 is gonna be crowded, we'll never be able to enjoy anymore. It'll be way more tense that driving on the Galle road But apart from that, I saw 1 porsche panamera, 1 porsche cayenne and 1 nissan 350z so it wasn't that bad after all

Hi, I got both peotv and dtv. Yes, peotv is not resposive as dtv, it even takes 2 -3 of seconds to change a channel. There are some occurrences of the waiting signal message recently but are not that frequent to cause a hassle to me. It's far more stable than the adsl connection. For me peo is a more stable than dtv coz dtv loses the reception due to raining. Also when the reception is lost, peo normally recovers within a minute. When viewed side by side image quality in peo is better than in DTV. Also dtv has reached their transponder capacity so they cannot add anymore channels without dropping some. TSTV is also a big win for peo (unfortunately for sri lankan channgels only) and I doubt the recording facility on DTV will be able to compete with that. On peo I miss the discovery science, but on plus side it has got the travel channel. About the customer service, they replace the peotv router even if its busted due to lightning, a big plus if you got adsl too. If you are really into this, there's about a 5 second delay in peo tv transmission compared to dtv, which has about a 3 second delay to the normal tv (on local channels). I say stay with peo, if you've got adsl is it working fine ? Check your splitter and the other little plastic box to see if the wires are burnt inside it.

Hey Mikee, I too had the sane question as you about my corolla 110. It's temp. knob was not working and the ac was always running at the coolest setting. But when I said this to my ac technician, he said that the temperature of the ac is not adjustable and the cooling is adjusted by mixing the hot air from the engine with the cold air from the AC . Further he showed me a small valve that is used to do the mixing and said it was broken in mine, so the temp is not adjustable. He also said only some new cars has the ability to adjust the temp properly through the ac. I doubt a maruti will have that,

I think over 2 mil is way too much for even a crystal light AE110. You can even get a decent diesel 110 for that price. Reasonable prices will be around 18 for a pre face lift (non crystal light) and 19 (crystal light). Also I saw some CE110's around 18.5 in the h*tad, so the AE110 should be less than that. And try to buy from the genuine owner. Never trust those re-sellers.

Hi Guys, Got 3 issues on my corolla CE110. 1. There's a hissing sound from the brake pedal when I push it and release it. This wasn't there a long time ago, but started couple of months back. Is this normal ? 2. When I start the car with the foot firmly on the brake pedal (to test the brake booster), it goes down very slowly. You don;t notice it unless you keep pushing on the pedal really hard. When I checked in a van (with the same engine) the pedal went down really quick when the engine is started. 3. Brake fluid, master pump washers, liners, pads were changed about an year ago but I notice now the brake fluid has become dark in color (not very black but like dark brown or so). Are those normal or do I have a problem in the brakes ? Apart from that I don't have big issues with the braking performance but the car feels a bit unwilling to stop in hard braking but the pedal is hard. Also the brake pedal travels only about 1.5 inches in normal braking and a pal said it is too high and should travel more. According to a mechanic I don't have an issue but from the experience I don't trust those bloody mechanics so I need advice from you guys. On a side note about 2 years ago I had a master pump washer failure in colombo and lost brakes, luckily in slow moving traffic so didn't hit anything.(Master pump was replaced after that due to corrosion in it) After that I'm kinda too concerned about the brakes .

It's called auto wheel center and it's in Walana Panadura. When coming from panadura it's to the right in the old road about 200 meters from the roundabout where the new road starts. Map. http://g.co/maps/gmv9s Phone. 038-2231133. Better call them before going there. They were already fully booked for this Saturday and Sunday when I went there today. And closed on Mondays. One more thing, they have a machine that measures the side slip that they use to set the toe. When you drive over it, it shows how far your car drifts to a side actually when travelling a straight mile (fully mechanical one ). Thanks again AL guys, really appreciate your help.

Went to check the shocks and they turned out to be fine. So I finally decided to listen to my dad and went to the place that he goes for the alignment (auto wheel center in walana). I too used to go there but switched to so called sophisticated computerized places as the old place did not have any fancy gizmos. They too checked the alignment, wheel distances and it was fine. Baffled by my issue, the guy took the car for a test drive. Within 500 meters he told me that he knows the issue and went back to the shop and ask his technician to change the camber on the right front wheel. (It was adjustable as the hole had been made bigger earlier) Also there was a slight tilt in the steering even after car care adjusted it and this guy corrected it perfectly without a fuss. After that all the pulling issues were solved and the car drove perfectly. These guys did the job that car care, pitstop and Sanka failed to do with all there so called state of the art machines(though care care was way better than the other 2). So moral of the story is, no fancy machine can substitute the sheer experience and you have to listen to your parents at least when something goes wrong And never ever go to pitstop those idiots told me that they cannot center my steering coz there computer says it is correct They said having load in the rear made the camber problem more evident and that's why I experienced the pull when the rear is loaded Thanks guys for taking time to help me on this

I'll go for the koito japan used one. Guess they are the OEM with the corolla.

For the bushes you have a 3rd option. Try finding a used arm with good bushes (you've to check the bush thoroughly) from delkanda area. I did this for the corolla about 2.5 years back and the bush is still holding up. Where as when replaced the bush only, even the Japanese ones brake within a year (mostly in 6 months or so). (same as your's bush only is not available from the agents and the whole arm costs 17k )

From the pawn broker shop in Navinna junction. It's to the left lust after the junction when going to the Colombo. Yes it's a pawn broker shop and he sells injectors too . There's an injector repair place nearby so he has stock for most of the common engines. It's better if you take a sample with you.

@terrabytetango and @TheDon thanks a lot for your replies. Will follow your advises. Anyway I scheduled a shock testing for tomorrow and keep you guys posted about the findings. Unfortunately did not have time today to correctly measure wheels.

Carcare did the alignment on all 4 so rears should be fine. Also rear castor was fine. Front left castor is bit off but still within the spec. (Showed as green in Sanka's machine ). Another alignment tech (someone I know) told me that rear shocks might be bad. So I'll be checking that tomorrow. But I don't have any body roll issues. Can a worn shock create this kind of a behavior ?

Hi, There's a strange issue with my car CE110. When there's a rear passenger in the car, it pulls heavily to left. But goes straight if there's no load in the rear. It goes straight when there are 2 people in the front, but the problem arises when someone is in the back seat. Previously it had a bent left lower arm and broken steering rack mounts so I replaced left lower arm+bushes and the rack mounts and now all the components are fine. The left front wheel is a little behind the right wheel so it had a slight pull to the left but it's really worse when there's load in the rear. I took the car to 3 alignment places. (Sanka, car care and pitstop) apparently no one had fixed it. Actually it was there before, but I noticed it this morning (So I did not inform them while doing the alignment). Coz previously I though it was due to the issue with the bent arm but today I tested and confirmed the issue is still there although the arm is replaced now. If you wonder this is why I had to go to 3 places. When I went to alignment @ pitstop they told the caster is out(i.e. left wheel is a little behind) So I went to the mech and found the bent arm and the bushes so I replaced them and the rack mounts. Then I went back to do the alignment. They did the job then my steering was not centered. When I inquire about it they told some bs about my rack being bad. Then I went to Sanka and they too could not center the steering wheel. Finally it was car care who centered the steering yesterday and they did a good job. So I phoned them about the pulling issue today and they suggested it could be due to one coil spring in rear could be lower than the other. They said there was a slight difference in the camber of both the left wheels and corrected it using a hydrolic puller as it's not adjustable. (Have you experienced this ?) I need your advice on the issue as I could not see any difference in the rear ride height and also the chap did not sound confidence enough for me to believe him. PS. Front tires are new and the rears are fine although a bit worn. All are balanced, aligned and has correct pressure. There's no any rattling sounds going over potholes. There's a slight oil leak from one of the metal tubes in the steering rack (due to busted thread when re-fitting) and the mech said it won't affect anything (still looking to buy it, but really hard to find). Power steering fluid level goes from max to min about in a month or so.

goto http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html and select the model of your car and it will show up the parts catalog and then you can get the part numbers. If you have the frame number (which is in the plate in the bonnet )enter it in the site and it shows up the correct parts catalog. I use this to search for parts for my corolla and the part numbers are dead on correct.

oh... you have a malfunctioning cat. converter and speeding, that means => Going over 100 on E01 and Polluting the environment. Then you really fit in to the type that Jami is mad about

Ooops