Fixzit

The problem is with the PWM valve inside the compressor, pretty common with Allions, Axios, Premios.. and all other Toyota models that comes with a Denso variable displacement compressor. Just replace the valve and re-gas.. that's it.

Fuel filter frequency varies according to the fuel quality that you are using.. I'm not sure what the manufacturer recommend but i personally check for water every service and change it once every 3 services..never had any issues so far..

haha funny.. but well said I couldnt have said any better myself

Go to an empty area and hit the brake hard at about 40kmph..turn off the ignition off and turn on.. if the abs light dsnt go off.. do an OBD scan and find out exactly where is the problem..

155,000 kms for 15 year old car? Hmmm i doubt it. My 2005 IST has done 140k already.. so considering the age of your engine and transmission i wouldn't be surprised if you are getting 7 or 8 kms per liter in city driving conditions,but if this is in low traffic out station or highway economy,then you need to worry. Still..fuel economy depends on so many factors so it's very hard to get a fixed value as your normal economy specially in driving conditions in Sri Lanka. Driving style makes a big difference too. If there is no check engine light and no trouble codes a proper tune up and a transmission fluid change with new spark plugs should usually give you better economy until you get to a stage where you get bad fuel economy due to a worn engine and a worn transmission..

I don't think they sell older super diesel anymore.. at least the name is gone.. but im sure its the same fuel with a fancy name.. all the super pumps i see have got the 4 star thing on it..

As others mentioned.. normal diesel is 3000ppm sulfur and 46 cetane and super diesel aka 4 star super is 500ppm and 50 cetane. For newer commonrail engines its recommend to use a low sulfur fuel and would highly matter for the life of the injectors. You will not get any benefit using super diesel in older engines in fact it can damage the fuel pums as the sulfur in diesel is used as a lubrication for the fuel pump. If your ecu can detect the 50 cetane and adjust the timing accordingly yes your engine will run smoother..way less smoky and also you can get a bit of extra milage during services..but don't expect better fuel economy with super diesel. Chances are you will get one or two kms less per liter..

Any chance this could be a faulty knock sensor?

Yeah it was hard at the cold start too but was unable to start at all after the engine is stopped while its warm..

Had a similar issue on a townace 2C engine.. turned out that it was because the engine was worn and under compression. It was ok after a full rebuild.

Won't start means does the engine crank when you turn the key?

Use a multi grade 20w50 maybe.. the difference in fuel economy is negligible cz if your engine is burning oil for being worn. . it wouldn't be that efficient anyways..in that case the thicker oil might give you a better seal between components giving you better compression thus more power in fact it might give you better economy as well..

If you can't see a leak, then the first thing to look at is the radiator cap.. try replacing it anyways cz it dsnt cost much..unless you have already done so... if the problem is still there..then get it pressure tested.. if you are loosing coolant then that means obviously its going out of the system from somewhere. .hope you properly bled the system for air trapped inside when you did the flush..

Agree with Don and MasterDon..you can check by talking plug wires off to see what difference it makes.. if anyone of the wires don't make a difference that means something wrong related to that cylinder. . Could be a sensor issue or electrical. . But as Don suggested after all the things you have done already. . Its pretty easy to get a scan done find out what's the issue.. some people would scan for free from what ive heard. .you can ask the mechanic to do a reset first and then do a scan.. that way old and unrelated codes wouldn't pop up.. but then the mechanic might do that even if you don't ask him to do so...

I live overseas so im sorry I don't know many places in SL.. you can always try the agents..or the other experts here will be able to help you im sure..

You can also check the spark plugs whether they are firing and whether the spark is the same in all plugs..

Try checking with a scanner.. it should give you a code for misfire. . There could be many reasons. . I think that's the best way..

Keep us updated. . Hopefully it ll fix your problem. .

Yes.. that's what I said I wasn't sure of what I told you about the engine oil burning situation.. and I now know a better reason how it could happen thanks to you

*range not an exact value..

Thanks for your input Don..your explanation makes more sense as I wasn't sure of this issue.. also yes you are right. . Regardless of load on the engine it should not overheat.. but then the engine operating temperature is a range on an exact value so usually under normal driving conditions the engine temperature is at the lower end to medium of this range while with more load its at the upper end which makes a difference around 10 degrees or a bit more.. you will see the thermostat opens around a set temperature but the electric fans will start running a bit later.. If its viscous fan.. then fan speed will get higher as the viscosity of the liquid goes higher with temperature. .thus engine s operating temperature becoming a range... usually around 82 to 96.. but it differs with different engines..

Only reason I can think of is when you are climbing hills it makes the engine run about 10 degrees hotter than normal even if your cooling system works perfectly. . Maybe cz of that heat your engine oil gets a bit thinner and it seeps through the piston rings and burn.. if thats the case you can try using a bit thicker oil.. something like SAE50.. but then the experts might have a better opinion on this..

Being a front wheel car..I would get it fixed ASAP before it damage the other parts and also cz of the safety risk..

Maybe try asking the mechanics in TL about what we mentioned and see what they can come up with. In some cars you can access this door just by removing the glowbox. I have done the same on mine for the above mentioned reasons as mine was going into fresh air mode quite often. I have removed the power socket to the motor which drives the door while it was in recycled air mode so it would not go for fresh air at all..on my car it was quite easy..I hope its the same on yours..

Your AC must be talking in fresh air. Im not sure about your exact model but most of the new cars with climate control automatically switch the ac into fresh air after some time to maintain the air quality in your car. If you are getting fresh air even after manually switching your system into recycled air, then you will have to check the electricals in the system specially the motor which drives the opening and closing of the fresh air door which would be closer to the blower suction side..to access this they might have to take off the dashboard.. if you are worried about it, try talking your car to a good AC mechanic and see what he says. Maybe he can do this without talking off the dashboard. Try to get this done as soon as possible because with fresh air it also suck in a lot of dust which would eventually block the cabin filter and also the dust would turn into a muddy substance which would damage the evaporator. .