Fixzit

Hi, I'm not so sure about the 2007/08 E25, but I did owned an E24 Nissan Caravan with TD27 Engine few years back. E25 with an 3L Intercooler turbo engine should ne pretty powerful. Both KDH and E25 is 3L but lately Nissan diesel engines got lot more torque than other rivals of them and few more hp extra so the E25 might beat the KDH with power too..but I've never did a comparison..anyways I preferred the Nissan because it was more comfortable than the Hiace ( I used to own a LH113 as well) But I do know that the DX is made for commercial use as in Deliveries and can carry extra weight..GL comes with few extra luxury options and made to carry passengers where VX is fully loaded with all the options to carry passengers and more comfortable than the other two. 4WD s are cheaper in SL because they cost a little bit extra to maintain and also will consume a bit more fuel than the RWD model because of the extra weight. If I were you. I would go for the 4WD version too which will give you bit more ground clearance and bit more off road capability . Still don't expect to do hard offroading on it. It;s still a Van.. Converting to Dual A/C will depend on how you want it to be.. I've seen people doing "Line A/C" (Thats what they call it) to rear which is having AC vents all the way to the back which they say cools better. It makes sense too, so that will cost you bit extra.. better to talk to a technician and get a quote... If you buy a VX, everything will be done for you from Nissan lot easier.. more expensive but nice and neat, better quality than doing it after market and you have a better market price when you are re-selling..

Just like Jdnet said, Sakura brand filters are not bad and less expensive. VIC s are more expensive and very high in quality. I've been using Sakura filters for a while now and never had a problem. I don't use VIC because I change my engine oil every 5000kms with Castrol and change my filter every service. If you really wanna buy from eBay, make sure your seller is a top seller or a power seller (It's not easy to become a top seller or a power seller unless your products are very good and you have sold a lot of it with very good customer feedback), Always pay via paypal so that if you what you got is not exactly what was mentioned on the ad, after a dispute to paypal, you can get your money back. I buy lot of stuff from ebay and so far I've never had any issues.

A Little Correction... Actually NRX is right !! I did some research and had a chat with one of my friend who's and auto electrician. He said, Just like when you start the car..all your accessories get turned off for some milliseconds (Lights, CD Player etc), your compressor clutch gets disengaged as well to minimize the load on the Battery. So regardless of the swich status (On/Off), It's the same thing..

Even I've never seen a car with lifetime ATF, or an ATF which is lifetime but even if I buy one with lifetime ATF, I would still change it every 30k Kms or so

You can smell a worn clutch if it's worn you are driving under load like uphill, you should get a very distinctive smell.. also try this,Go to a place where there s a bit of open space, make sure there are no obstacles in front of your car for some distance. Apply handbrake, put your car car on 2nd gear while your clutch is pressed down, you need to press both acc and brake together and get your rpm up to maybe 2000rpm. Let go of the clutch and your engine should stop instantly( As if you just turn the ignition off).. if not.. you have a bad clutch buddy But when you are going uphill and your car wants to stall that means your clutch is good...if your clutch is slipping, It will not let the engine stall because the load from your wheels will not be transferred to your engine. You have a Hydraulic clutch right?

That's good news.. Glad to hear everything works good...

If you are loosing power after the engine heats up, that means your car could be over heating. If your engine is hotter than it's suppose to be, then parts inside your engine starts to expand creating more friction between them. That's what leads to loosing power, but in this case what you are saying is you need to rev up to get more power.. so it doesn't really add up. Because what should happen is that It will be hard for you to rev up the car when it's hot than when is normal.. in other words let's say for an example when you let go of the clutch at little bit above idle rev on 1st gear.. you can get 0-35kms in 3 seconds when the engine is cold but it takes 4 or 5 seconds to do the same when it's hot.. Is this your problem? If not then it's most probably something else like an ECU issue or a sensor issue or tuning issue..or could be some other reason...

Exactly what Nilantha said.. better to be safe than sorry...

There is a way you can check whether your water pump is not working at all.. which is to open the radiator cap, top up the radiator if you are less on coolant, and just start the car..rev it.. your water level should go down. But then is method is not so accurate if the problem is partial. Only way that I know to check properly is to take the pump off... You might wanna check for any blocks, noises, rattles, bearing quality or impeller issues...

Has any one every thought about why car makers never makes cars in a way that the A/C is automatically turned off when you start the car? Obviously not because it's too expensive to do so or it's too complicated...simply because it's not necessary. They can easily put a few seconds of time delay from the start to turn the clutch of the compressor on after a start but it's not needed. Leave the A/C on guys.. I never turn mine off and never had a problem. Your starter motor s got plenty of extra power to turn your compressor as well.. If you are thinking that you can save fuel by turning your A/C on and off manually.. that is a silly thing to do too. Every time you turn it off by hand your cooler gets warmed up because the air inside of your car is still too hot(Otherwise the thermostat must have already cut off your A/C before you did) and put extra load on the compressor when you turn it back on thus using even more fuel than normal because then the compressor will take more power out of your engine to compensate the extra load. As some of the guys pointed out it's a good idea to let the thermostat do it's job and you concentrate on the road . I do like to point out that it's not actually the same if you turn the A/C on and off by hand (manually) and the thermostat cutting it off. Simply , if you turn the A/C off because you feel the temp inside the car is good enough for you, but the thermostat works according to the temp in the cooler. It's not usually the same and the load to the compressor is mainly decided by the expansion valve which works with the temp of the cooler. So you'll be better off letting the expansion valve and thermostat do their work by themselves. What you can control of course is the blower fan speed. Lower you run it the cooler the cooling coil is and the expansion valve closes to maximum taking load off the compressor and thermostat will cut the compressor off.. that's how things works ... If you really wanna save some fuel money with the A/C... use the following tips.. 1.If the inside is too hot while you get in the car, open all windows and let some cold air from outside to come into the car rather than asking your A/C to take all the heat out. You can get this heat out through the A/C but you'll be using extra fuel for that.. (Extra load = Extra Fuel) 2. If your car has a climate control function, put it on Auto and use it !! that's more efficient than using manual blower settings..I've seen lots of people not using this function, can't imagine why. Note that reducing temp setting does not give out more colder air from your air outlet, It will only increase the running duration to get up to the value which you have set. So leave the temp setting around 23-25... tips 3 & 4 below does not apply to you...so go to 5 3. If you have a just 3 or 4 blower settings, while the interior is hot use the fastest fan setting and gradually try to use it on the lowest setting as possible but this does not mean you use fan speed at 1 when there s burning sunlight outside with 34 degrees..because in that case you will be better off not using the AC at all rather than barely using it. Sole purpose of A/C is to keep you comfortable. 4. Adjust the vents towards you. If you are the only person in the car, and if you close your other vents and just leave the vents directed to you open, you can run the system under a lower fan speed. 5.Some cars comes with a return air filter or a cabin filter. It's a good idea to get it cleaned or if it's too blocked then replaced once every 6 months or so. 6.Keep your Condenser clean and do not let it clog. This will decrease the efficiency of not only the condenser but the whole system which puts extra load on the compressor. It's a good idea to check whether the condenser fan is working properly and also check the tension of the A/C compressor belt too. Slipping belt will decrease performance. 7.Do not turn the fresh air setting on because in SL, fresh air is hotter than recycled air most of the times which puts more load to the system and also fresh air will bring in dust with it which will eventually becomes mud inside the cooler and clog it, also it will rust the cooler to leak it. Hope this will help to save you some fuel while using your A/C

Sorry I'm not an expert on emission standards. What I do know is that the higher the Euro number, the more strict they are about what you are emitting to the environment..CO2 levels, Carbon monoxide levels and being a diesel.. soot particles..etc also the quality of the diesel you need to use in those cars differs accordingly. Europe is reducing the sulfur in the diesel with every standard upgrade and as far as I know, the maximum sulfur level in diesel sold in UK is 500ppm where in SL it's 3000 and UK sells an ULSD( Ultra low Sulfur Diesel) with 10ppm for new diesel engines. I guess it's a good thing for you that they change the standard backwards but can't say the same for the environment but if you had the vehicle with Euro 4 standard, I'm pretty sure it will come with a DPF (Diesel Particle Filter) which will considerably increase your fuel consumption and stress out your turbo while taking away 10-15hp of your engine. So maybe with Euro 2 you will not get a DPF. I would highly recommend you to only use Cepetco Super diesel in yours though because common rail engines are highly sensitive to the fuel quality and specially the level of sulfur in fuel... PS: Ceypetco Normal Diesel 3000ppm IOC Extra mile 3000ppm Ceypetco Super Diesel 500ppm

Adjusting the ignition timing will not stop the smoke in anyway,for that you'll have to either use a thicker oil like 50W or overhaul the engine. Having a new set of oil rings may stop the smoke temporary but that's not actually a proper fix. However as NZer suggested, check your ignition timing as well. It's worth a try. But because you said your car runs fine with a cold start, I personally am not so sure about ignition timing. I think it's more of an under-compression issue.

Well.. next thing which comes to my mind is the water pump, if the water pump is not circulating the water properly through out the whole cooling system with enough pressure.. that could be your issue.

Pull put your AT dipstick and check the end of it. In most cars i worked on, the type of ATF which you need to use is engraved on the dipstick where you check the level..

Pull put your AT dipstick and check the end of it. In most cars i worked on, the type of ATF is engraved on the dipstick where you check the level..

Yes, In fact I used a Caltex Havoline ATF-J it was called if i can remember right. Genuine Nissan ATF-J was nearly the doubled of the price of Caltex.. I didn't see any point of using Nissan Matic J bcz i know for a fact that car makers do not make any fluids, they just buy it from another company and put their name on it for a higher price. Any well reputed brand will do the trick. I personally preffer Castrol cz i know that they make quality products, and Toyota use Castrol in their fluids as well, but I couldn't find ATF-J in Castrol while I was in SL.

Actually, i forgot to mention what Clark'son said. He's right. If you are filling your res.tank above the max level.. That could well be your problem too because that will create extra pressure inside the Res.tank hose and restrict the water flow from radiator to res.tank. Also Radiator caps come in different pressures, 0.9 and 1.1 is the most common. Are you sure you have the right one on your radiator?

If you do a regular ATF change just by draining the fluid from the drain nut and refilling with new ATF, that does not take all of your fluid out and still your transmission will hold about 1 or 2 Lts (depending on the size of the transmission) inside and when you refill new AFT, the old dirty oil will get mixed with new. To minimize this you need flush the transmission or just drain it twice with new oil. If you do regular service, this is not necessary, but if the ATF has not being changed for a long time, It would be a good idea to do so. I personally change ATF every 20,000 Kms or when ever the colour turns dark brown which ever comes first. If you are driving under heavy traffic conditions you need to change your ATF more often. It would be a good idea to get your ATF cooling system checked because if there is a block in your cooling system your ATF will turn into dark brown and too thick in no time. Heat is the number 1 enemy of ATF. An ATF change will cost you few thousands of Rupees i guess and if you are little bit handy with tools and mechanical stuff, you can get it done by your self...just need to buy few bottles of ATF. If you run the car with crappy ATF that will eventually destroy your transmission which I don't have to tell you how expensive to replace...also just because you don't have a drain nut you can't assume your car comes with a lifetime ATF, always check with the manufacturer or GOOGLE My car does not have a drain nut because the car maker has mentioned to perform a full ATF change every time including the filter by taking off the Sump completely after 40,000Kms and that's the case with most of new cars, they are more sensitive to the quality of ATF and they need to have a complete ATF service when ever the ATF need to be changed and also you have to use the correct fluid in it( VERY IMPORTANT), Normally you use DEXTRON II or DEXTRON III standard but mine is being a Nissan they have specifically asked to use NISSAN AFT-J in it...Hope this will help.. Cheers...

According to what you described....you said the coolant has come into the reservoir tank..which is perfectly normal and that's what It's suppose to do, A reservoir tank works both ways.. in and out of the radiator. Let's assume it's a head gasket issue.. then their could be few symptoms..like Engine oil in the radiator, and water in engine oil..or air inside the radiator due to compression leaking. if you don't find any oil inside your radiator or water in your engine oil, then just do a simple test to check for compressed air inside the radiator. Drive the car for 20-30mins to get it up to normal running temp (Ideally this is when your temp gauge is at the middle or closer to the middle which is the maximum your car normally would heat up to, but in your case it would be different because you have removed the thermostat but try to get it to the middle as possible), and while the engine s running, take off the rubber hose from the reservoir tank and put it in to a water bottle. Get someone to rev up the engine a bit and check whether you can see any air bubbles coming out of the horse..if your head gasket is leaking you will see a continues flow of air bubbles. If you are just getting coolant in, then there s nothing wrong with your head gasket. PS: Be carefully when working with the cooling system while it's hot...also the radiator fans could start at anytime so watch out.

In my opinion, I think your engine's worn off quite a bit, being a 1994 it should have some serious mileage on the clock. Heating issue could be due to various number of reasons, but an engine which is under compression could easily be a cause for overheating and it could also leads to burning oil because too much heat can damage oil rings on your pistons, or simply the oil rings and cylinders could be worn, Which could explain why you are getting white smoke. Try using a thicker oil grade 50 maybe and see whether it fix your oil burning issue, and get your cooling system checked for radiator blockage, thermostat and fans ect..also get a tune up done on your carb..

In my personal opinion... what I found out is that you cannot expect a good 4x4 to be comfortable as well cz what i found is that more comfier it is, less it performs off road. Softer suspension gets damaged pretty easily and does not handle so good on rough terrains. If I had to decide between Prado and Montero/Pejero, I would just go to a dealer and test drive it myself. I will buy which ever i feel good to drive cz at the end of the day, I'll be paying for it and I'll be using it. So if I buy a 4WD because someone else says it's good, and I'm not happy about it's performance, what good that would do to me? I'm not saying i disagree with any of the guys who took their time to point out which one is their favorite and why.. but i guess it's a simple decision.. DO A TEST DRIVE AND DECIDE. PS. If you are really after comfort, Don't buy a 4WD unless it's a LEXUS LX570, Land Cruiser might looks similar but performs totally different. LX570 is the most comfortable 4WD I've ever driven, Even a Range Rover Vogue 2011 Autobiography can't beat it.

If you feel a vibration when the car is idling, there could be few reasons. Engine mounts, Engine is out of tune, or It could also be that the idle adjuster of your A/C is not working... If your idle speed is around 700-800 rpm and does not fluctuate, then most probably it's your engine mounts, also because your car is A/T, you might feel a jerk when switching from Park to Drive or Reverse. Still it depends on which engine mount has been damaged. You might not feel the transmission jerk yet still It could be mounts. If your engine is out of tune, in most cases your RPM may fluctuate..After a cold start your idle speed may go up to 1200 RPM which is normal and it should return to something between 700-800 (Idle speed may differ from car to car and It's mentioned on the user manual and also under the bonnet) So once the engine is at running temperature, and while your AC is off and your idle speed goes up and down..then most probably your engine is out of tune. If your vibration disappear once you turn of your A/C, then that means your AC Idle adjuster is not working properly...

Check your wiring, because your van is few years old, there could be too much resistance in your wiring and the blower motor might not get enough amps to run at full speed. You can check this by connecting a direct line to the blower motor from the battery. Use a wire with a higher current rating for both positive and negative, So even after the direct supply, your blower runs slow.. then the fault is in your motor. Try to replace the blower motor with another. Better to get a used one from a Used spare parts dealer.

Guys, I have a Nissan Navara with a DPF.I've been reading quite a bit and from what I found out I'm suppose to use a Diesel fuel which is very low in Sulphur (ULSD - Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel) in it, and lower the sulphur content. the better. ULSD is suppose to have a ppm valuer below 10. In SL, our normal diesel is 3000ppm and Super diesel is 500ppm. I'm currently using Super Diesel in mine, and what I would like to know is.. Is it a must that you have to use low sulphur diesel in all common rail engines? and If I use normal diesel by any chance, will it ruin my dpf and my injectors? Also, Is there any good places where I can remove the DPF completely without getting any indicators on the dashboard and not sending my engine in to limp mode? Thanks in Advance.

True !! these bikes are imported as spare parts in containers to get the tax or duty benefits. When they load this bikes into containers, their chassis no. and engine no. are erased. Once they are through the customs, all the parts are assembled back into a complete bike and engine and chassis no are re-printed. You cannot legally register these bikes because they don't have proper documents from customs. What importers do is they pay someone inside the DMT and make false documents and register the bike. Apparently the current rate is something close to 30 grands to get this done. Once you get the registration and revenue licence, you have no problem in using or transferring the bike. I had a Honda Hornet 250cc 110 Chassis and a Suzuki Volty which were imported the same way, never had any problems using or transferring. I know people who got their 600cc registered as 250cc, still no issues until the cops catch you. If they do, your bike will be seized. With 250cc you will have no issues. The Issue with leasing companies is that they know almost 90% or more of the Japanese used bikes are imported this way. They just don't wanna take a risk with their money because if the cops seized your bike for some reason, leasing company will loose everything. It's not like you will keep on paying for a bike which you don't have, and leasing company will loose their guarrentee in case you don't pay which is your bike... P.S : I know people who use this method to register their bikes twice to keep the market value with a new number. They just erase the old ch.no and eng.no and re-print a new one, register the bike again and get a new plate, sell it as a just registered bike. If you are buying a Japanese used bike like a Hornet, make sure you know how or take someone with you to test these bikes well for faults and go for condition of the bike rather than the number. Hope this helps....