GayanR

Dear all,I recently replaced gearbox bearings on my old Mazda bhalp manual car.They anyhow resurfaced the flywheel too and all issues were fixed.car runs fine.But my issue is that the car used to be running smoother than this when I first brought the car.The gear change pattern has changed a lot.As some of you know I have replaced the clutch on my mazda axela some time ago from the same place and it has also adopted to this gear pattern.I thought It was normal back then.I just want to clarify if this is the normal behavior. When I first bought the mazda bhalp car It was capable of accelerating powerfully in high gears at lower speeds but now if speed gets bit low I have to shift it to lower gears to accelerate again otherwise car looses power and take some few seconds to gain power again.This was the car that could accelerate a little in first gear and can shift straight to 3rd gear and boom got so much power instantly.But now I have to get upto about 20km speed before even changing it to 2nd gear otherwise the lag and bog occurs.Same issue when in reverse,If I'm traveling about 60km/h in 4th gear if the speed gets low about 50km/h I literary have to shift it to 3rd to re-accelerate.otherwise it takes sometime to gain power again if I carried on accelerating in 4th.But when I first brought this car it had so much instant power that I could carry on accelerating in 4th like nothing happened.It has become annoying because If I was accelerating in 2nd gear at traffic about 15km/h and if its get down to like 10km/h I just have to shift it to first gear to re-accelerate.I have to drive like a racing driver now downshifting and rev matching frequently.Now I have to focus more on changing gears, earlier what ever the gear car had so much power.I now feel like the gears are very long too.I could speed up to like 70km in 2nd gear. Other than this shifting time change, there is no issues in accelerating.When on correct gear it can accelerate superbly.Strangely my mazda axela has developed the same timing after the clutch replacement.Sadly I couldn't see how it drives originally because the pressure plate was bad at the time I brought it.Pardon me because these are the only manual cars I got to drive so long to notice this.so Just want to know whether this is normal or they messed something up.Tanx

If you aren't worry about the repairs and resale values there is Mazda rx8 going for around 2.8m these days and few rx7's selling around...

Lot of people just like the fact that their cars are economical than other cars on the road on day to day basis.They don't think so much far into the future.I know some of my friends who own hybrids have no idea about the complexity of their machines and some just simply don't care,and don't care about the economy at all,They just like the fact that it just looks modern and nice.Down the lane when these cars get old then it might be not so economical to drive with the repairs.It's just in the mind set of the owner.Some simply don't care about the repairs and all and some have no clue about their machines.

Does this sound comes when you press in the clutch?Might be the throw out bearing/release bearing.

I think the guy has his memories attached with it.what you can do is give your details to him in a friendly manner. Say if he ever changes his mind to sell it you'll be the first to buy...

black one looks too grand,red one looks sporty and very eye catchy..

Have you owned a mazda axela older one before?If not you can buy a 2007 one around 2.8m which is best value for your needs.You get all the sporty experience and looks you are looking for and can save a huge amount of money.Mind you that too much sporty feeling can get annoying sometimes if you are used to driving an allion.I suggest you to buy a mazda 3 ride it as much as you like sell it and if you loved the sportiness of it buy the mazda 6 when the prices are down...spending 6m on a mazda in sri lanka is not a good idea,unless you are a huge fan of mazda...

On resale value,It won't be easy as selling a toyota,But there will be people who's willing to buy,Just don't keep high hopes on resale values,Resale value on mazdas change frequently and unpredictable,I don't know about the price but lets say you get it down for 6m be ready to sell it for like about 3-4m after some..

Only pre 2006 mazda 3/axelas carries red tail lights.Both tail lights sockets are same.You can change them if you want.Contact m**na motors,pepliyana,they have few with them.

mazda 3 and axela are both made in japan..mazda 3 is made for the European market and mazda axela is the japan domestic vehicle.(JDM) In sri lanka mazda 3 carries a 1.6cc engine with 110bhp while axela carries a 1.5cc engine with 118bhp. Other than that there are only few interior and exterior differences. mazda axela Quality Fabric seats pre 2005 axelas/3 carries red transparent tail lights pre 2006 Front grill silver lining is not present. Original axela carries soft shock absorber setup Rear drum brakes some pre 2005 axelas comes with cable throttle body mazda 3 Leather seats rear disk brakes somewhat stiffer shock absorber setup comes with drive by wire throttle body other than that no difference axela is economical than the 3,but not by a huge margin,I guess axela has a better acceleration compared to the 3. my manual axela does 10 city 15 out (with occasional hard throttle)

Instead Buy 2.5m worth of punnakku...

Ah those Apsara,dahamsa ones....I want a sonali one...

Hi shaamika I'm not that knowledgeable on this to comment,but I had some experience.By the way have they replaced the original thermostat?Certain thermostat comes with various temperature settings to be open at different times.Might be your new one opening too late for the car. I had a smiler issue it was a failing water pump

HI firebird there is place in malabe for spare parts I can't remember the exact name I suggest you to look at sunday hitad paper.Other members will comment on that.Anyway you can't expect Japanese vehicle quality in these vehicles.So most of it you asked for it when buying this vehicle.Temperature issue might be due to a failing water pump,faulty gauge etc.Engine gaskets Just don't go like that without a major incident.What I suggest you is to take the car to a good local mechanic and get a second option.Most garages will at least be able to diagnose the problem.The second option is to wait till they repair and sell this vehicle when you can.I'm pretty sure they will come with a large bill as well.

HI nimz my previous fb14 had 175/65/r14.(original was same as yours 13)Had no ground clearance issues even with 5 people over a bumper.But a considerable amount of road noise and harshness were introduced.If your car is getting bottom out that bad check your suspension and coil springs too.springs get weak over time.Checking your spring stiffness will be a good idea.If it's too soft go for stiff ones. Here is a pic so you can compare the height of your car to mine.

It depends on the trim,As far as I know xenon comes as a standard for the 2l and 2.3l versions.Here in sri lanka we get halogen.If it's HID there will be a warning sticker at the back of the headlight,you can open the bonet and check and also there will be a small start up delay for the bulbs to come to full power.

1) Timing chain 2) I have no idea bro I have a manual bdw 3) yap 2.3-2.4 for a 2004 axela

I think your tranny is going on to limp mode that's why you cant speed.Is this the O/D bulb that is flashing 16 times?may be the tranny is overheating? This guy has a speed sensor failure on transmission

It's just a walk in process,will cost you around 1800/=.Ask them to do a engine scan.They will give you a full report,you can do the repair elsewhere.keep in mind that many garages will tell you to replace the gearbox,And in my case normal places with just a OBD scanner couldn't find the error.hope it got resolved.cheers.

HI excel I had a similar issue with my nissan fb14,It turn out to be a bad MAF sensor that fails once it get heated,Go to A*W and do a engine scan first.

It's most probably a coil pack issue.Get a engine scan report done at A*W.

MD all these places only wants your money.They may recommend you to do 10 tune ups rather than actually addressing the problem.If you have any sensor fail or coil malfunction or some sort ecu will give error codes most of the time.Just check your ecu with a obd scanner.Do you know what they did for tune up?Did they replace plugs,filters and stuff?First get a ecu reading.I think for a suv 8kmpl is efficient.Even most of the sedan cars here doesn't do 10 kmpl in city.

You are not going to buy a car in this lifetime bro...