harshansenadhir

If it's a manual gear, then an experienced driver can squeeze out impressive mileage figures with it's turbo-charged engine, either 2.5 or 2.8 with lost of torque in the lower end. You can pull away in higher gears and shift quickly to 5th and "can manage" to save lot of fuel. in case of OP, since it's automatic, I feel the figures are about right.

Check the radiator cap as the first thing. However, drive it carefully as I smell some pressure annomalies in the system, since you said the top hose was squeezed. My main suspect is a blocked thermostat valve as water hasn't flowed out properly from the thermostat to radiator (top hose was empty / squeezed).

Also check the status of the ignition coil. When aged, coils use to decrease efficiency with the heat in the engine room.

Was the pump installed a used one ? Seems it's still the pump

Some makabasses give these sort of wrong terms and explanations. If oil used to lubricate the turbo, gets into the intake due to leaks, that can cause an oil burn. Yet, that smoke is NOT black. If the leak is excessive, a bluish smoke would emit. Further, any old turbo can cause a slight oil leak and burning, that is in most cases insignificant. My personal opinion is in this case, either the deisel flow is too much due to 1. Incorrectly calibrated pump or injectors ( now we can leave out that) Or In sufficient air flow 1 due to any obstacle in the intake or turbo doesnt do the job right.

further, certain fuel system cleaners have adverse effects on old diesel engines,especially when the old motor has carbon buildups on the combusion chamber which helps to maintain a higher compression ratio and still ignites diesel. These liquids might remove such build-ups which will eventually result in showing signs of under compression.

test the following to isolate any issue with the coolant temperature sender which can be a culprit to late kick-in of the auxilary fans. Start the engine, either from a cold start or after running, keep A/C switched off the whole time. Monitor the temperature gauge while observing whether the fans do kick in. Make a note of the position of the gauge when the fans kick-in. If it's beyond the middle point, press the radiator top hose to see whether it has been excessively pressurized. If yes, then there seems to be an issue with the coolant temp. sender unit. If it's normal, there's no issue with the temp the fans kick in, then you might have to start observing other obstacles in the system such as blocked thermostat valve, ineffeciencies in the radiator in exchanging heat, etc.

I doubt the sway can be a result of bad shocks on an even road. Hows the front tires? it can be due to damaged tires as well. Why don't you get a wheel balancing done on the front wheels? end of the day you won't lose much in getting an alignment and a balancing done as oppose to spending on a front suspension overhaul.

2C-T comes with a turbo charger if I'm not mistaken. How's the turbo working? does it activates at the proper RPM ? Usually 1500RPM, but just check for the specification of this engine. Also how's the diesel pump? the calibration specially. If it's not calibrated properly to control the flow of fuel, there can be black smoke too.

if there were no battery water in it, possibly the system overchages. Not enough battery water means charge does not hold the way it should. Check the charging system properly with a battery meter / multimeter to see whether it charges at least 13.2 ~ 13.5 during normal running. With a full load (Lights + A/C + blower set to full speed) the system should charge 12.8 ~ 13 in idle speed. When you increase engine RPM, it shouldn't go beyond 14 ~ 14.5 which indicates an overcharging symptoms which will cause the battery to lose battery water.

there I see some salt/rust foamation sort of marks on the fins. Therefore I doubt whether you can remove these using cleaning / degreasing liquids. Try some of those wheel / alloy cleaning products which createse a foam and allows you to brush off dirt. as for the equipment, http://www.google.com/imgres?q=wheel+cleaning+brush&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&biw=1525&bih=709&tbm=isch&tbnid=VfWiaRk3hJJrOM:&imgrefurl=http://www.detailsupplyonline.com/product_info.php%3Fproducts_id%3D143&docid=5wszvm5aDLq3VM&imgurl=http://www.detailsupplyonline.com/images/soft_spoke_brush.jpg&w=500&h=499&ei=4oIoULmEE8jorAfA4IDwDA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=403&vpy=366&dur=3558&hovh=224&hovw=225&tx=90&ty=239&sig=112336397215381866723&page=1&tbnh=166&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:14,s:0,i:119 http://www.google.com/imgres?q=wheel+cleaning+brush&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&biw=1525&bih=709&tbm=isch&tbnid=qIjn_dnU9LZjFM:&imgrefurl=http://chemicalguysusa.blogspot.com/2012/05/wheel-woolies-wheel-brushes-3-piece-kit.html&docid=DPgWsuuDgc5xBM&imgurl=http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u79/chemicalGuys7/Wheel%252520Woolies%252520Wheel%252520Brushes/WheelWooliescarcarewheelcleanerbrushesbrush.jpg&w=1022&h=593&ei=4oIoULmEE8jorAfA4IDwDA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=436&vpy=289&dur=232&hovh=171&hovw=295&tx=125&ty=114&sig=112336397215381866723&page=2&tbnh=111&tbnw=191&start=20&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:23,s:20,i:212

Cannot see the attachment, therefore no comments on your plans of custom re-built. There are enough spare parts both used and new. Used ones are usually from dismantled locally driven cars and rarely you might find imported used spares also. Since this model was manufactured in Argentina until 1999, China until 2009 (pick up version), Kenya/Nigeria until 2008, there's enough brand new spares supply. However, compared to the good old days, there's a drop in the supply of spares and which was one of main reasons for me to part with my 504s (03 of them). Issue is agent no longer stocks spares and only handful of suppliers in Panchikawatta and they run a monopoly. Try to find out a one which isn’t mucked up with so many modifications done locally. Frankly there aren't many original ones around, almost all are Frankenstein 504s. If you're looking for comfort over other factors, choose a GL with all four independent suspension. Pre 1974 GLs (AKA button model in local terms) came with all four disc brakes as well. If you need rigid suspension to handle rough roads here in SL, with less comfort, the basic L model is there with ugly looking dash and a gear shift lever which is possibly lengthier than of a one in maxxi trucks. from YOM 1981, GR is available as a mix of both L and GL. Rigid suspension with rear hyphoid axle as oppose to swing arms in the GL, but with better sophisticated interior and modern looking dash board. GR shares most of suspension parts with 505, there's further assurance of supply of spare parts for GR over other older models. If you can be specific as to what you're planning to do with the car or what exactly you want to know, probably I can shed more light.

There's a teeth gear ( usually a plastic one ) inside the gearbox which turns either the VSS or speedometer cable. If this teeth gear/ wheel got damaged ( can happen due to stuck cable in old systems or stuck VSS sensor wheels in new systems) the said issue can happen and I'm sorry to say in certain designs you have to dismantle the gearbox to replace it or take it out.

In my experience L6A had enough power to burn tires in low gears as they didnt come with O2 sensors so fuel inflow wasn't regulated/controlled at the expense of fuel economy. Seems like what you can first do is a proper tune up

exactly what I was thinking. if this crap could break locomotives down, no comments needed to determine the damage it could do to common rails with electronic fuel injectors.

i'll find out what exactly the issue in these vehicles, as we recieved officially, it was only mentioned as "breakdowns".

Few vehicles of our company fleet have reportedly got some issues after pumping diesel from cpc.

ripper is spot on I guess. I also thought it's the same. Whizzing noice is the sound at expansion valve as compressor starts. If it reduces within few seconds, alls well. If it continues, check the level of refregirant in the system. Why lights gets dim is either 1. the load on the system demands more power (A/C clutch coil and auxiliary fans starting) from alternator/battery and it fails to delivery. Bad battery/terminal -or- 2. loosen or worn out auxiliary belt (no longer fan belt in modern cars also it's evident that idle speed up mechanism which triggers with A/C does not work properly, that's why RPM drops to 200 (are you sure?). In that sort of a low RPM its natural that alternator cannot compensate the electric demand in the whole system.

belated b'day wishes mate

tell us the issue what you have. Further, is this a D8 with OBD I port or OBD II ?

In Cali's world Honda = Insight hybrid. What an epic failure.

thanks for the update JD. Have you got any work done from the new guy?

it's the type of the shock matters most and then brand. If it's GAS pressured shocks, then it tends to give you better handling with compromised comfort. if you need comfort, go for oil type shocks than GAS pressurized.

Best bet is to take it to the agent and get a diagnose. They know all these error codes and descriptions for error codes. Googling of P0500 tells that it's VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) malfunction. If you have a way of swapping a speed sensor (just for troubleshoot) and see whether the system works.

I assume it's time for you to replace rear brake liners. in this model the handbrake would be automatically adjust each and every time you apply handbrakes. only instance it cannot adjust properly is due to worn out brake liners or some issue in this auto adjusting mechanism.