harshansenadhir

load testing was missing it seems. Though new server couldn't handle it, you might be happy for the amount of traffic it generates I presume.

Most of the threads are Sharing knowledge and helping those who deserve. Difference in this thread is OP was updating the thread frequently and also was thankful to update even after the problem was solved, which most of posters won't do.

First try replacing with a one as a trial, may be a one from a working system. This always helped me in isolating which part is troublesome in this complicated EFI business.

try replacing the idle control motor. Failing which, next culprit in most instances would be ECU itself. Try re-setting the ECU (search on web or follow the most common method. That is remove earth cable on battery terminal and press brake pedal for few times) whether would it help or result in changing of patterns

I know machang but this is something commonly happenning it seems. In this models (relatively new with english plates all that ) people won't peep into the under carriage looking for rust spots. If you ask my friend, he never takes a mechanic nor bother checking everything. If he's convinced that he can sell it keeping a mark up, he would just buy it. Bugger sold the very same AWD car he unknowingly bought, keeping a 25k mark up even with educating the prospect buyer.

Does it smokes heavily while you keep the pedal pressed all the way ? I was rather assuming this was a sudden development / change of the car and it used to give a good pulling power. If it's the way this car was, I presume it's something to do with the engine power and how it has been used. On a sidenote, are you sure it's a 1.8l? means 1C? usually CE110 came with 2C or 3C engines. 2C = 1997CC and 1C=1796CC. If it's 1.8 as you say, I don't think we should take this any further as it explains the reason. A simple trick is there to increase the power a little bit on these diesel engines. That is by advancing the diesel pump position a little bit. The sound of the engine will increase a little and fuel efficiency will decrease but for sure it increases the response. -- this can fetch around 2.2 ~ 2.3 me thinks.

I wouldn't encourage that mate. Imagine someone hitting the brake using left foot infront of you

retard ignition timing on a CE110? can you elaborate more please.

Prices of these cars are being determined by the mercifulness of the seller. Seriously the prices they quote for 13-15 yr old cars not worth in my opinion. If you buy one (face lifted, honey comb shell ) around 2.4mil, I'd say a good deal in this economy. Beware of mileage adjusted, hacked, converted to myroad specimens and open paper ones. Sinece buyers would jump and buy any lemon on this model range (this is applicable to 110 as well) there are many many ill treated ones around. Fuel ecomony would be around 11 kmpl city and 15-16 outstations if you know your driving.

very hard to find fuel economy, comfort and performance all in one. Specially performance and fuel economy won't go hand in hand. Since you said performance and comfort, let me suggest ES5 or Axela.

What's the engine? Turbo ? non turbo? with electrically controlled diesel pump or manual pump? Auto gear or manual? You said "it still won't accelerate like it should be". This statement is by comparing other cars or previous experience of the same car? Before going any further, check for brake binds also please let us know the information I asked in the begining of this post. So we can logically think for a reason. Also mention any recent repairs/services done on the car.

Reason is not the reaction time as it may be different from a left hander to a right hander. Have you seen some vans and heavy vehicles, where the steering column is in between the clutch and the brake pedal? Good luck pressing the brake pedal using the left foot in those.

Thanks mate. Yes running the pump to load the lines before start is understood. But running a pump (assuming it's a feed pump) for this long after engine shuts off i have never encountered, may be as you said if it drains the lines, but I doubt that kind of a mechanism exists in FB13, specially it's being a carb model. I may be wrong, but my assumption was a stuck relay or foul electric supply causing the feed pump to work extra longer than expected, what do you say?

This surely is a fuel pump. Yes, there can be a feed pump in the tank although the mechanical pump exists to avoid starting delays. Why don't you give a peep by removing the rear seat cusion? or just forget it until that happens next time. Also give a look into the relay diagram to find out whether there are any relays meant to power a fuel feed pump.

Even when doing clutch balancing, it's advisable to use heal toe for the brake and accelerator. Left foot should be kept strictly for clutch for a reason. and for the OP, Brake and the cluth requires difference power and pressing patterns. When you're pressing the clutch, you press it all the way down, in the same phase. You don't press the brake like that, you press, check response, decide to release or press more etc. Also, you don't have to press the brake with the same force as you're pressing the clutch as either drum brakes will have it's own ways to increase brake force. Commonly found power assisted brakes will not require much force as the clutch would require. There's a common saying among drivers in SL, that is if your enemy is driving behind your vehicle, then press the brake pedal with your left foot. Meaning is it can create an unnecessary rapid locking of wheels as left foot we used to press with much force than the right foot and we would press it all the way down.

I also had the same feeling that he's asking for this advise late. However, it could be an instance where a seller would've cheated this fellow. I have come across few instances where some friends of mine, whome are well conversant with vehicles have gone and bought AWD version of some popular models. One of them have realized that he bought an AWD simply by hearing a hum sound from rear diff, days after buying the car. Some people will realize that they're using an AWD car when they're going to sell it. So this can be something like that I presume.

Advantages would be better grip when you need on all four corners including some rough terrains where either FWD or RWD alone might not be able to negotiate. don't get this confused as you can use an AWD on some serious off reading. Disadvantages would be less fuel efficiency, high wear and tear of parts (if the ordinary version of this model is RWD, then you will have an additional two CV joints to look after in the AWD version) comparetively, less market value and impressions, relatively less availability of some spare parts.

Not a pleasant experience. Also let me add another similar experience/ cause for system to overheat, that is a failed alternator causing a battey drain. Had to take the golf home from office in a rainy evening with charging lamp lit knowingly. Had no choice but to operate lights and after a while system current was not suffice to activate the fan relay. Used the same method as don mentioned to keep the temp low ( avoided congested roads and kept cruising including in neutral gear ) Another tricky thing is when the voltage of the system drops, it tend to indicate less temp than what it is actually. Just mentioning as someone might find this useful.

If the car equipped with a one with lines connected, yes. However, if it's pouring or nights this might cause foaming mist on the windshield internally.

Short circuiting can happen if the feed (+ out) wire touches ground due to some reason. Not always within the alternator.

What's the car ? let me suggest a chrome plating instead of spraying some color

they say when an engine is boiling you shouldn't stop the engine all of a sudden and more importantly should not add water to the radiator (that is, if you managed to open the cap without getting burned) when the engine is not running. If possible, the best thing to do is let excessive pressure on the system to go ( compromise safety and open the cap is what I've always did) and then add water as engine keeps running. If you opt to stop the engine, then wait whatever the time it takes the system to cool down, before you add more water. If you add water to the boiling engine with no water rotation, chances are high that you'll crack the aluminium heads you find in most of modern engines.

Are you sure that this model equipped with a mechanical fuel pump? there can be instances where this model equipped with an electrical pump. Assuming if it's an electrical pump, this sounds like a stuck relay since it was driven in relatively hot engine temp (Vesak traffic means very less movement and engine room temp goes up with that kind of routine). Do some rearch to find out whether this has mechanical or electric pump, if found electric, check the relays and wiring loom coz petrol pump is not suppose to be running after shutting down the engine under any circumstances. Other assumption is that there is a pump to route petrol vapour inside the tank through the intake and it worked excessively due to some reason. However, i'm still inclined to think it's more relevant to the first assumption, that is petrol pump related.

You said this happened suddenly. If it was me, I would've first checked the engine wiring loom for any possible short circuits, especially the feed wire to the alternator and all grounding points, again within the engine wiring loom. Diode plate can be busted like this all of a sudden for two reasons, one is poor connectivity/current flow to battery and the other is short circuit. Make sure you have sorted out grounding, connectivity and short circuit issues (if any) before installing the new altnernator. As Ripper said, 5000 is a good price for a used (non repaired locally) alternator.

it's less stressfull, trust me. Have tried it in many instances including day before yesterday. Enjoyed watching how the bugger tried to compensate inclines by pressing the accelerator vise versa. Was maintaining steady 100 without any issue. Boring, nope, kept both feet on the floor like a passenger and enjoyed nice sight around. with a manual gear vehicle, cruise control temporarily disengages (release the accelerator while you're keeping the clutch pressed) and re-engages as you release the clutch pedal.