harshansenadhir

The L6A engine is popular for it's low fuel efficiency but high reliability compared to the other engine variation they offered. 6.5 kmpl it towards low fuel efficiency side, yet not drastic and also heavily depend on the driving conditions, style and the pay load of the vehicle and the quality of the A/C system!! (this is highly affecting peugeots as the compressors are heavy on the engine) So before trying to pull out and plant an unknown engine, try to really see whether there's an issue in the engine first. Although I'm not a fan of L6A engine in terms of power and efficiency, I have to appraise it for the reliability and low cost of spare parts replacements. Prices of the engines may start from 250k and go up depending on various factors. Some re-conditioned spare parts places such as TE*J*Y in Mt. Lavinia had engines brought down but I haven't checked the prices. the leaks you mentioned may not be classified as common for Peugeot but common for any vehicle which has not maintained to the standards. You can always opt for a timing belt change with changing of those oil seals and a full injector clean up (I meant a proper removal and clean up with re-pressurizing, not pouring those chemical liquids in) If you decide to change the engine (to something else than L6A ) ,it's not easy as it may seem to be. The mountings are different the gearbox may be needing a replacement, engine management system (ECU) needs to be replaced also the engine wiring harness. The older the pressure plate and the clutch cable, this tends to get stiff. Try oiling the clutch cable would sort the issue out. If not, bear with it until clutch needing a replacement, replace otherwise.

Indeed a cool thing. And just FYI, scooty pep tires got this chemical solution inside. So if a tire gets a puncture the chemical comes out and gets sealed under normal air pressure. Cooler than this isnt it ?

This calcium formation is bad for water jackets and radiator core. The core gets clogged with this hard to remove calcium and water jackets became rusty and tend to leak. Adding little bit of coolant is always good than filling the entire system with coolant.

Yes, one of my 504s were restored by an ex carmart tinker who's in Boralesgamuwa (profile pic is a close-up of the same car). He's no more doing restorations due to adverse health conditions.

many happy birthday fellas. Hope you'll have a good one

First suspect come to my mind is the ignition coil pack in this scenario. Try swapping a coil pack and see whether the issue persists.

Wrong. Changing shift lever while engine is not running doesn't mean it wears out faster as such. Most of modern auto boxes Shift lever only sends an electronic signal to operate some valves in the valve body. If theres no fluid pressure in the tranny, that will operate the valve but won't operate the relevant piston

blame should go to the paint work. Don't try to apply compound or sand papers, you'll see the previous coat of the paint. Rangerover was spot on with that question. Better consult a good paint shop or a good painter.

There's a shop in panchikawatta towards tower hall end on the R.Premadasa stadium side. Mostly popular for vintage car parts esp Morris. They had white walls you can buy seperately and use with normal tires. Haven't tried as you have to insert this between the rim and the edge of the tyre. Not healthy nor bullet proof for tubeless tires.

That's a killer for al4 gearbox as per our experience. Should put the vehicle in frequent use if you want to avoid valve sticking issues and what not. This was proven correct when I was using the 307, it ran solid. Then 406 joined the fleet and 307 was hardly used except for very random use my bro did. Not so long in that way and tranny packed up. This was also told by Aruna who maintains my Peugeots. In fact he warned me and said to use the 406 frequently after the golf joined and knowing I would run Golf often than 406

According to manufacturer it's service free, rather sealed for life. But most of the cases the gearbox failed in relatively lower mileages. Therefore now its recommended to change gear oil in 35,000 miles intervals. Have seen some forums suggest oil changes in 25k miles if used in stop go traffic. What we usually do is change gear oil around 30k intervals along with the filter and oil inside the torque converter should be completely changed. Dont know exactly what I do is correct but the 406 lasted well in the same way with previous owner and with me close to one year.

gear chaning is bit late. should change at 2000 if you're light on the pedal. i'm not saying 7-8 is normal but towards a bit high consumption side. However, don't have facts or first hand information, assumed therefore, provided that my 406 auto does about 6-7 me being heavy on the pedal all the time.

how's the gear changing of the AL4 tranny? does it waits till the engine revs more or it swiftly changes the gears? should do around 10-12 for a manual one. Dont know any exact figures of an automatic one though.

next time you see a gen I prius, go peeping to the driver's window to locate the ignition barrel.. and yeah they have dropped a steering column of some another car (was it vios or 121 i can't remember) we have become the land of garbage in that very same context, even this very same prius context the same is applicable. We will end up having quite a lot of lead wastage in our country thanks to hybrid batteries

lower RPM contributes towards lower wear and tear was never occurred to me I'm a member of one of UK based 406 forum and they bash the diesels ( I would say abuse) not changing oil even at 20k (yes one member admitted that he ran in excess of 20k miles without an oil change) and lots of lots of DIY and cheap fixing just to get MOT passed all that. With all these, diesel vehicles (engines I would say) lasts longer than petrol counterparts it seems. Come to think of it, even in SL context it's valid as diesel were (and still are) cheap, people tend to run diesel vehicles excessively, yet again they do last. For some reason, wear and tear of diesel engines in SL context is higher than petrol. Say, an average diesel engine requires an overhall around 200k kilometers but i've seen many examples of petrol engines (old KE72s, Lancer C12s, boxes and what not) runs with mileages close to 500k without needing an overhaul. Trick is, when the wear and tear reaches a level in a diesel, it refuses to start (not matching required compression to self-ignite diesel oil) yet, petrol, you have the ignition to burn the fuel mixture although the engine is under compression and burns oils, piston slaps what not. Diesel engine wear out quickly than petrol engine, may not be the correct term, but "needing an overhaul quicker/earlier than Petrol engine" would be.

low end torque and not having the hassle to start the engine coz you suddenly released the clutch. The governer in the injector pump will make sure the engine won't stall, impressive for beginners. Poor acceleration will no longer be there when a diesel engine equipped with ECU driven common rail injection coupled with Turbo intercooler. Ever driven a 406 HDi ?

Wonder how handling of this 'converted' hybrid would be. Never had any opportunity to drive one as they were WIP specimens when I witnessed. nope, the entire boot compartment was ripped off and battery pack was removed. Remember, we're living in a country where they believe a car should be lighter as much as possible and should squeeze maximum kms per litre of fuel, that's it. Handling, saftety, driving pleasure, .. what nonsense. disposed battery packs accordingly? hell yeah, that must be with the fellows paying you for the kilo's of lead in a battery AKA 'botal pattara karaya'

mounting is straight forward, but the electrics was the challenge according to him. Imagine the feeling of seeing a prius with an ignition barrel i got that shock of my life

I smell a weak response from the idle up valve, engine has a tendency in rev up unnecessarily and takes little more time to respond. Better to check the idle up valve and the air flow passage of the idle up valve for any carbon buildups

usually a diesel vehicle will squeeze better MPG/ KMPL than the petrol counter part thanks to the higher compression ratio and fuel injection (only GDI can match this fuel injection in Petrol) Even if the prices are equal, there will still be a benefit of running a diesel. Only downside is engine wear and tare is high again thanks to the higher compression ratio of the diesel engines. The worldwide trend is small diesel cars and/or diesel hybrids and also most of environment concerned governments are promoting / encouraging diesel vehicles due to it's eco friendliness (in contrary to the popular belief) than petrol vehicles. on another aspect, diesel vehicles can be used with alternative fuel such as bio-diesel

since it's a belta, I assume this is a JDM version, which is not tropicalized and not made to hard terrains like India, Sri Lanka and African continent. Therefore, the undercarriage cover must be of a plastic one. However, tightning this should be either a DIY or ordinary mechanic's job, if you're so sure it's the undercarriage cover/guard which gives the rattle sound.

Lot of 1st Gen prius which are running about does not have the hybrid system anymore. Most of them have converted to 121 Engine and gearbox with the wiring harness. I have witnessed many conversions a guy (a teenager actually when I witnessed this) in Piliyandala area had done it successfully.

What's the car and why this is required? Reason is manufacturer keeps a ground clearence considering the down force and the 'lift' it creates when cruising in high speeds specially. Lifting a car too much might have it's adverse impacts towards stability. Since you asked the way, it's usually being done by adding a metal "plate" (i'd rather say small cylinder type of lathed metal peice) between the top of the coil and the body of the car. You will have to change the bolts to a lengthier ones along with this. Have seen some people does it using wooden (yes, wooden) peice as well. This is not advisable as time to time you have to tigten the bolts and wooden material can suppress/compress when a pressure is being applied. Usual costs involved in this can vary by the quality of the metal piece and the place where you get this done. Heard the prices varying from 7k to 15k for both sides. If you ask, how I have gained the ground clearence of my UK spec 406, which usually has a lower ground clearence, I've installed 205/65R15 tires.

if I was you, would've gone for GT. Reasons are 1. competitive price 2. fast moving stocks (due to price factor again), so you get better quality tires which hadn't stayed longer in the inventory 3. Quality wise, its value for money and lasts long downsides of GT would be the ruggedness in the tire. This was something I experienced when I was using GT and Good Year in turn. Good year was smooth but GT tire was rigid.

There is an issue with charging. Battery holds power without any issue as it had enough power to start the car after it kept unused for longer period of time. This usually happens if the charging mechanism equipped with conventional electrical regulator (cut-out in local term) rather than the electronic circuit based in-built regulation. (charging IC in local term) . When the system is not being used for a long time, the coils in the conventional regulator does not get magnetised the way it used to be. Therefore, a correction / adjustment is required. if your car equipped with (I assume it should) a conventional regulator (cut-out) get it adjusted by an electrician or replace. Do following before you take it on with the regulator and I do assume you have done these basic checks. 1. Check whether the belts are loosen. If mechanics have messed with an engine repair, chances are high that the belts were not tigten properly. 2. check for any oxidization in either battery terminals or (+) supply from battery to alternator. Check at the alternator end as well. 3. check all grounding contact points for rust and possible contact issues. That too can contribute towards poor charging. Keep us posted, good luck.