kadsa98

Owned a 2012 Allion before and serviced it at the maharagama TL since new. Never had any issues and for an oil change + extras service it costs max 16k. Go in and ask how much it is to get a scan usually they won't charge just to scan it, I've had CEL's checked for free there plenty of times.

then better to ask from the DMT itself buddy.

Don't stress yourself financially. Till you can afford it buy something cheaper! My first car was a '99 Pug 405 that I bought for 400,000 without any financing. only when I could AFFORD it did I sell it to buy another car. Don't go into debt to keep appearances buddy! best lesson I learned!

I bought a motorcycle last year and the specified engine capacity was 399cc however when registering the CR says 400cc. I Don't think it'll be a big problem.

Can't be dirt due to multiple fuel filters in between the fuel tank and injectors! Sounds like a coil pack issue. would be better to take it to a good mechanic.

Hi TT could you pm me the place as well, I have to do some rust repair on my car as well.

Thanks for the advice!

@DavySorry I'm still new on this forum. Thanks for the help

Hey all, I couldn't find a thread about this, however if it has been discussed before please link it if you can. I'm thinking about installing an aftermarket exhaust on my car, What is the current law regarding this? It's a 3.5" barrel with a resonator delete so it's going to be loud. Thanks in advance!

Replying because I also wanna know if this is possible....

Best Answer! ?

Yeah I agree, my 260 also did max 8-9 in colombo and 14-18 highway (Granted I do drive with a heavy foot)

I know a good guy near nugegoda. PM me

@chamara54 I would just use the original Toyota oil filter from Toyota Lanka. But VIC is a good alternative as well. If you can afford it go for either motorcraft or Bosch filters. Do not go more than 5000km between oil changes unless you want sludge in your engine. (Only applies to the 1NZ-FE). When I Had my allion I would change it every 4000k - 3500km (Mineral oil) because of the heavy traffic use and overall abuse it saw.

ASFAIK the 1NZ-FE engine loves to sludge up if the oil isn't changed religiously. I would just use the normal mineral oil and change it every 5000km. good example of this - A good friend of mine owned a 2003 vios with the 1NZ-FE for the past 4 years and just as he bought it he replaced the valve cover gasket (Doing so revealed zero sludge in the head) and started using synthetic engine oil and changing the oil every 10,000km. Recently the valve cover was being removed again and he found a good amount of sludge inside. Synthetic oils do not sludge and are designed to run 10k without a hitch however as I said before the 1NZ-FE engine head has areas which pool oil and can cause sludge fairly quickly. For oil filter find the best quality you can. If not then go for VIC but make sure it's the original one and not some replica.

2000 Volkswagen Bora For me the usual service cost is as below - Mobil semi synthetic 5L - Rs.6,500 (Changed every 5000 miles not km) Genuine VW Oil Filter - Rs.1,950 Oil drain nut crush seal - Rs.350 Air Filter - Rs.3000 Injector Cleaner - Rs.900 MAF & Throttle cleaners - Rs.1800 (1 can lasts for maybe 3 services?) Labour - I do it myself so it takes maybe 45 minutes.

@LashNeo Thanks man, and yes I am.

@Stryker having previously owned a 260 allion for a good 60,000km and now daily running a 2 litre VW Bora, I can safely say that the allion was more expensive when it comes to maintenance. Fuel cost is negligible. Obviously my Bora is quite old now (18 Years old with 170,000km on the odo) however it is twice the car the allion is and I've found that parts were much cheaper for the euro!

This. I bought almost all the spares for my VW from Panchikawatte. Some parts were even cheaper than Japanese counterparts!

It's a 2000 Bora Sport UK variant. 2000cc + a 5 speed manual. Fun car to drive! Also, I can't seem to find any good pictures of her so maybe I'll update the thread later.... The blue van is a 1987 VW Caravelle C (Line A/C Model) which has been with my dad for the past 20+ years. Its got 840,000km on the clock and is still running like a dream. (I don't get to drive her after putting the dent you see up front XD)

Whatever car you end up looking at, make sure it's documents are in order and that there is little to no rust on the body. Peugeot 406 D9 Toyota Mark 2 1980's models i think Volkswagen Bora FB14 Nissan sunny is imo a good car for it's price.

I had a 2012 model, The compressor gave up at around 45,000km (I owned the car from 7000km to 65,000km and had no issues with the CVT). I brought down a used compressor from Japan for around 20k and ran it without issues till I sold the car at 65,000km.

I bought an English number 2000 MK4 Volkswagen Bora 2.0 for around 1.5 million 3 months ago. So far I have spent 300k in repairs and now the car is literally brand new (Complete new suspension front and rear / New mounts / New gearbox and engine / All 4 new Bridgestone tires / minor cosmetic fixes / Body has zero rust) If you are worried about petrol then don't think about euro's. except for a certain few cars. Why buy a older Japanese car when you can get a euro for a lesser price, fix it up and you have a good reliable car!

Then there can't be a mechanical issue assuming the mileage is correct. I had the same small jerk at slow speeds on my 260 allion with the cvt gearbox. Toyota lanka said that its normal for cvt's to be jerky at slow speed. The vitz is cvt as well yeah?

I had my 260 Allion painted 3 times (3 separate incidents) at F o r m u l a W o r l d in seeduwa. Did a perfect job every time. Great customer service too!