Clark's son

Thanks TT There's no sound of the belt slipping and it seems tight enough to the hand. And the terminals are tight enough no visible oxide too.

The battery light is coming on in a very dim way it's actually difficult to see in the daytime. Before starting it has the normal brightness so nothing wrong with the bulb. The brightness reduces when accelerating The brightness reduces when the ac headlights and other Electrical equipment are turned on. The brightness reduces while accelerating and at around 2000 rpm beguin to flicker and at 2500 disappear completely but comes back when the rpm is reducing. Recently the battery light was fully on and the problem was detected as the alternator so tryed to buy a new one but company told it would take 2weeks plus to bring it down so the Coil was wound at a local electrician. When we were on that we also put a new alternator belt not a company as it was not available at the time. Then a month later this happened. The car was driven 200+km with this dim light issue but still no sign of the battery not charging even the magic eye in the battery is green Need some expert advice

A reason why people go through sales or brokers to sell their cars is that they don't like to face the buyer. The main reason is that something is wrong with the car. It's met with an accident or is pending a major repair. In that instance using a middle man makes the seller kind of immune as most of the praising will be done by the middle man so that the seller can say I didn't say that. And that's the reason they go for cheaper prices. Because face it they are lemons. Only a broker will advise it's better to buy through a broker. The only vehicle we sold through a car sale (was one we got from one) was because it had met with an accident overheated and the engine was gasping for it's last breath. We sold it to a broker for cheap cause we didn't want to get involved in a crappy deal. He had cheated another buyer and got top doller for it

My Kenwood player has a reset button which is actually disguised as a red arrow shaped light

In the short term they will be good but with time when the rack up the miles they would wear out very fast. Unlike the old school big engine vehicles which could run on and on for ever.

With that budget you are looking at a 2000ish 4m40 diesel manual or a 2006ish petrol v6. Well the fuel cost of the v6 will be much higher but it's a newer vehicle the 4m40 is a lot cheaper to run. We've not used gdi ones because we always try to use brand new company imported climatized ones.

Being using montis for some time now From the 4d56 4m40 4m41 and the v6 From the engines this model comes with the running cost is lowest in the 4m40 as it's shared with other vehicles so engine servicing is cheap The fuel consumption is also low But the diesels are much expensive than the petrols so if your going for a petrol go for a v6. Anyway try to find one that was brand new imported rather than reconditioned and avoid the gdi As mentioned previously try to find a genuine one with less owners and a millages that could be justified Most of them have run to the moon and back but there are rare examples that were kept as weekend runners and long trip vehicles with other vehicles which were run only a little amount.

Go for a Hyundai Santafe diesel Spares are cheap with original filters around rs 2000 each and it does in excess of 10kmpl in trafic and much more in the long run never let us down for 10 years. Most have run a lot and hacked to bits and most have altered millages so it's difficult to find a proper one. But if you find one it'll be worth the search

We've been using Monteros for some time now and it seems that there's no major risks in using one A2007 one means your going for a v76 with a 4m40 engine which is much more cheaper to maintain than the 4m41 that came in the v98 center sparewheel (except for a very few v96 that came with the 4m40) As the engine is shared with some utility vehicles spares (sakura, js) can be found outside for cheaper than nissan march spares. But I use company spares. Only issues is the engine noice is a little bit high. That's what you get for using a diesel Compared to the older prado I think it's a better choice. I personally don't like the defender.

There is going to be a fuel station strike from today onwards What's the situation I needed to pump some diesel and have up the idea after seeing a que atleast 1km long. When is it going to end Any news will be helpful Thanks

All this time this topic was going on about xtrail rav4 and crv Yes they are not economical and from my experience about the petrol xtrail it would do around 5-6kmpl in colombo. But the list starts with the Rexton Santafe sorento These are diesels and do lot better on fuel The Rexton has more repairs than the latter 2. From personal experience the Santafe diesel would do in excess of 10kmpl in colombo and around 15kmpl out station and it's cheap to maintain filters cost around rs.2000 each which is very reasonable for a diesel. So the Santafe and sorento are good choices to consider in this price range

You are using a yr2000 16yr old car with 92 000km Unless you used it from zero millage or you can truly trust the previous owners I think it's better to co sider the 120 000km oil I bet it's done way more than 120 000km

Everyone wish they had a big black. ............Corolla

You'll not get prius economy from a premio/allion It'll do just above the figure of a xtrail. Don't listen to crappy sellers tell you. This is personal experience from a premio. If you like your xtrail and want economy and have 8mill at your disposal go for a diesel xtrail will be more economical than a premio And also you could go for Other diesel suvs with good economy and ground clearance like the santafe sorrento or monterosport

Your calling yourself a gonna (cow) and I second it Because your going to spend around 8mill on a 1.5L car.