kush

Agreed, just got delivery of mine on last Friday. So far no complains ride is better than Koreans, handling may be in par, so far I didn’t have much time to put her through few corners. Fuel consumption indicates 8.5 km/l but this is not in heavy traffic. It doesn’t go like the Koreans due to less power so you don’t get the kick in the b**t feeling when you accelerate but it is a very relaxing drive. So far I didn’t floor the throttle as the vehicle is still in its running in period. Planning few trips during coming weeks will keep updating.

Look at your user manual of the car. if not available may be you could download it. Most of the lubricant web sites carry recommendation for perticular vehicle / engine.

Not anymore it seems

You can get one down used/ recon or as some does get a brand new register overseas and get down as used. Due to the change in the customs valuation method there is only one value for a model no So technically the basic and fully loaded version will attract same duty.

Check air cleaner, clutch slippage and for any diesel leaks from the tank or return line.

New Montero sport is not sold on any of the above countries except New Zealand (and Australia) where they need tough SUV ‘s for farm use. The older one the Japanese build one was sold in developed countries sometime back. (You need to get updated) As for the ruggedness I have already agreed that the Monte Sport is tough. Prado is one of the few SUV’s that still deploy a ladder chassis whereas the Montero moved in to monoque few generations back. If you care to google you could get information on what that does for toughness and off road ability and also handling / comfort.

Montero Sport, Toyota Fortuner, Ford Everest are made for lower income earning countries. They are not sold in USA or Europe. Safety, Comfort, handling, built quality has been compromised for ruggedness. If you are looking for a tough SUV you will not see anything better this side of a Prado. If you want comfort, handling and built quality go for a Korean or a soft roader like CRV, X-trail

Go for the W124 even if it is bit older. More room, bullet proof build quality, best merc you could buy.

Mollie engines did not come with this model, if one has then it should be a transplant of a new engine. This is one of the best Toyotas made and in my view better than 110. This model had the ECU under dash/ centre console therefore better insulated from elements and also independent rear suspension. Go for a 1993 upward model (face lift) which has white rear lights and R134a A/C the older model had R12. Since these cars are about 20 year old check for rust and electrical issues, check each light, window ,mirrors wipers are working. Good luck

For me it seems like a clogged up CAT, why don’t you get it fixed (remove it) Best DIY way is remove the CAT get a broom stick and hammer it from one end and get the pellets out and refit it. You will get bit more power/ economy, of cause on the down side higher emissions (if everything else is ok I don’t think you will have an issue passing the emission test) And as for the oil consumption your assumption could be true, best tell-tale sign is blue smoke coming out of exhaust when you rev. You could also remove spark plugs and see for any burned oil / deposits.

same old same old with a new set of jewellery By the way they have jacked up the price

I tend to agree with Supra _Natural once I drove a W124 (300D) and thought what a wonderful machine, comfort handling at speed. After a while only I realised that the speedo was mph, and the car felt natural around (100-130 kmph) I wish they made cars like that.

Golf has a big blind spot in the C pillar. but other than that i would say GOLF On recent models Lancer EX although the car is big it had the best turning circle (better than Suzuki Swift)

Light green would be the best bet. You can fool people to think you’re driving a hybrid and saving the plant.

Agreed, once in a while you should get the engine to the red line to get the VVTi of DVVTi to do their work. You don’t need to speed to do this, on an open road just floor the throttle let the engine rev. This will give a work out to your valve train and also to your auto box.

It is not only the regular change but also you need to use the correct grade of oil and filter. Remember oil get contaminated with the mileage and age go by the manufactures recommendation. Generally every 5000 km (petrol) or 6 months works for most of the cases. For diesels and turbo charged engines at a more frequent interval. Most of the cases the engines get ruined because the owners drive (home/ garage) with low oil pressure. In case of oil light indicator lights up in your dash “DO NOT DRIVE”.

Actual reason is that they are switching production from Japan to Thailand, they will be offering the Thai version soon most probably at a cheaper rate.

I suggest you go for 185/65/14 or 195/60/14 which would minimise the performance and other issues while giving you the looks and handling of the low profile

PEN 15 , if they allow you to omit the last two digits

Go for the Brand new imported manual, I think it has a 2.4-2.5 l engine which is for some reason was giving better than the JDM 2.0 auto. Friend had one long time back brought brand new from A** and he use to get around 8/12 kmpl Colombo/ Outstation

I suggest you stay away from the above, you will not get a well-cared one on your budget. Besides on the above vintage Korean built quality and reliability was not as good as now and since the models are not that common you might have issues sourcing parts locally. Why not include Honda CRV and Suzuki Vitara and go for a Jap.

By increasing the width keeping the same profile you have changed the gearing ratios of your vehicle. If you calculate the difference of the circumference of the old tire and the new one it is approximately 5% Consequently your speedo and odo meters will be reading 5% lea than the speed or distance you have travelled. You need to factor that when calculating Kmpl Technically higher gearing should give you better kmpl and less performance, however the higher rolling resistance of the extra width might counter this. Did you feel change in acceleration. What you should have done is use 185/65 which would have been a better option and also change the rims to a higher width 6 in to may be 6.5 provided your wheel wells could accommodate them without issues.

F30 two offerings one for US$ 25k basic, US$ 30k with Dacota Leather Electric Seats, HID, DRL, ++

When I checked in Feb they were offering 2 models one for US$2500/- and a higher spec for US$ 30000/- Cost without the permit was Rs. 7.4 M and Rs. 8.8 M Agent charges were Rs 1.5 M + Vat which I thought was too much Have they reduced the charges for the price to come down to Rs. 6.9 M

Why don’t you try Darley road shops, they might even be able to repair the cable if it is snatched from the head.