MrCat

Also, the air conditioner was never working effectively during the warmer summer days here in Perth. The system was already converted to R134a refrigerant. 38.9 degrees outside: The car could only manage to bring vent temps down to about 22 degrees: So the system got leak tested and re-gassed: While working on it, the A/C technician identified that the high pressure sensor was triggering. Then realised that the auxiliary fan wasn’t running. The 10amp fuse was missing, so I replaced it, and the fuse burnt immediately. Since the high speed fan circuit is on a 30amp relay, we just used a 30 amp fuse. The aux fan is now working, but on high speed when A/C on. Keeping the temps down to a respectable 5.6 degrees when the compressor is running: I kept troubleshooting on the low speed fan circuit, only to realise that the resistor was missing. Someone bypassed it completely. Replaced resistor with a Bosch item from BMW, all sorted (used an extra aluminium plate to better dissipate heat - my Father`s idea):

Ok, so looks like there is no easy way to port content from a different forum archive in to AL, so i am going to manually copy-paste useful content from the old forum archive. The odometer wast working when I bought the car, so I got the instrument cluster professionally reconditioned with new gears, globes and a clean. Also replaced the following items, mainly for cosmetic reasons: · Fuse box cover (genuine BMW) · Turn Signal Lenses - Front (genuine BMW) · Replaced hood/bonnet strut (aftermarket) · Interior light (used item) Replaced all the auxiliary belts: • Air Conditioner: 13x890mm : BOSCH 13A0890 • Power steering: 10x800mm : BOSCH 10A0800 • Alt+Water pump: 10x1025mm : 10A1025 New belts in place: Removed, cleaned and trim restored the front lip. Refitted with new (genuine BMW) clips:

Thanks for the tip.. having a look around.. ? Edit: Found one archive.. Yay..!!!! https://web.archive.org/web/20170226122911/http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/45957-1990-E30-318is-a-k-a-Little-Red/page3 And another copy taken later on : https://web.archive.org/web/20170419150430/http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/45957-1990-E30-318is-a-k-a-Little-Red/page4 Anyone know an easier way to port or move the above thread(s) to AL..?

Thought of noting down some of the upgrades I’ve done to the car. I know the E30 is not popular as a tuner car or a modern classic in SL, but hey, this may help someone someday. I had a forum thread which I religiously updated on a different site, but the whole site disappeared with all my build/fix history L One of my favourite upgrades and one of the absolute must do`s of anyone who is after a more enjoyable drive out of an E30 – replace the factory power steering rack.! The standard spec rack is 4 turns lock-to-lock which just too slow and mundane. I`ve replaced with a unit from a BMW Z3, which is ‘THE’ quickest steering rack (linear ratio, not progressive) which would bolt in to the E30 chassis without modifications. Rack-ends, hoses, reservoir - all these got replaced which completely transformed the drive. Cleaned and painted the rack before fitting, some before and after pics: After: Edit : Found some pics of more goodies that went in : Holden Barina steering linkage modified to fit the longer neck of the BMW Z3 rack (god knows who found this mod first, but works like a charm for a factory finish ) : More power steering related bits and pieces that got installed:

Hello All, It’s a slow day at work, thought I’ll post a few pics of my own car to keep the E30 spirit going.. The day we bought her home a bit over 2 years ago….. Bone stock, no upgrades no modifications.. About 95% of things working as it should, few leaks here and there, lumpy idle, paint job looks better in pics. Actually, it had a couple of upgrades: A tuned chip to run on 98 octane with the rev limiter increased to 7500 – which was great. Then a cone filter instead of the brilliantly designed factory air-box – a useless addition. These are more recent. Only the Racing Dynamic wheels are visibly different, but many.. many.. bits are either replaced or improved by now…

Its called a window weather strip/seal. Just tell them it`s the rubber strip between the door skin and glass. As long as the drain holes at the bottom of the door are not blocked it won’t cause any issues.

Didn’t mean to discourage you in anyway when I said find the best car. Now that you own it, enjoy the process and have fun. One last thing, try to take things slow and learn as you go. We all think we`ll do this that and the other as soon as we start working on a car, but most initial thoughts turn out to be quite useless and outdated soon (ask me how I know) Good Luck and have fun.!

Good Stuff.! I`m no expert in this particular model, but what I can mainly say about any older car in general is to buy the best example you can find. Unless it is a rare or highly sought after model, finding the best one is always more cost effective and gives less surprises over the long run. I am not talking about buying a pristine example for a premium price, but rather about finding the best car for a set budget or adjusting the budget a little bit for the right car. Also, IMHO mechanical issues are far easier to sort out over body/chassis/rust/interior issues, especially in a car of this vintage. So i would pay more attention to exterior and interior condition when searching for a car (i.e. original bits and pieces still intact). This is especially true if you are expecting to ‘restore’ things properly. Mechanical (engine/drive-train, etc..) overhauls are easier to do over getting interior and exterior bits up to spec.

Unfortunately on board diagnostics on these older cars can be extremely limited and can return confusing codes/messages. I can’t even get proper sensor readings on my N17 with an OBD2 port, the same code reader with the same app returns better/more data when connected to my Mazda 6. But the good thing is that older cars are much simpler with a few basic sensors and simple reliable fuel injection. There is a higher chance that the error is actually ECM related (anything from wiring harness or ground to internal memory), so yes, getting it scanned from the agent is a good idea. If you have access to a spare ECM (i.e. friend’s car), can try swapping the ECM, it will work as long as there is no immobiliser module/code within the ECM itself. Additionally, a competent auto electrician may be able to check the basic supporting sensors such as O2 sensor (since you mentioned cold start issues), air flow, throttle position (if there is any) etc… One more thing about the ABS warning, in an older car, there is a higher chance that the ABS module is completely independent of main OBD (i.e. ABS module and ECM does not talk to each other). I don’t know about this particular model in detail, but it is a possibility. If you are waiting to get it checked/fixed, just pull the fuse and completely disable the module. It`s extremely dangerous if ABS kicks in when it`s not supposed to (ask me how I know). You can get a second opinion if you like, but I would always run a car with an ABS warning with the ABS fuse pulled off OR after disabling the ABS modulator by disconnecting the plug that connects to the modulator.

Do you experience an actual issue with the car? Hesitate to start or accelerate, misfire, etc…? Also, did they reset the error code(s)? If they did, has it come back since?

Look..!! Spotted in a popular Tele-drama

Nice.! Looks like I`ll have to get the spare diff rebuilt with an LSD centre eventually. Recently went from 14 inch wheels to 16 inch (205/50 R16) which made a big difference in grip levels, the car doesn't` fishtail like mad in the wet anymore. But the bigger tires does seem to make the rear end a bit snappy, so when it does let go its instant.!

Hey.! Great to hear from a fellow Yeee30 enthusiast.! I hear the M30 is a pretty straight forward swap, the South African 333i had the M30 (3.3L) from factory. Never had a chance to drive a swapped car but, so don’t know how they are like to drive. I hear you can’t run either Power Steering or AirCon but not both due to the M30s being too long, is that true? Does the LSD make a noticeable difference in putting the power down? I suppose it does with a high toque engine, I have a spare medium case diff to be rebuilt with an LSD but with my little M42 it`s probably overkill.

Yeah, this car was going the rounds in the inter-webs sometime back. Thought it was for sale as well at some point, but not exactly sure. Beautifully done indeed. The E21 was the forgotten 3 series which is was not getting much attention, but good examples seems to be getting sought after now.

The one featured in this article? Seems like a proper restoration job.! http://www.octaneheads.com/2017/08/die-erste-serie-3.html

Great to hear that there`s an M30 swapped E30 over there! I`d imagine traction would have been an issue for drags unless it was running fat sticky tires. Can understand the lack of support, I`d also believe that the E36 is a better platform to play around with over there since there are more cars around and parts are also plentiful and relatively inexpensive compared to the E30 (in the international market).

Man.! my ears hurt just by reading this bit.. ? The MOT doesn't look for a Catalytic Converter over there?

Oh.! Some one rear-ended the Lancer and it got written off unfortunately. But the person who bought the wreck from me fixed it and got it re-registered, so the car probably is still roaming around. I need a wagon in my life (not a fan of SUVs) so got a Mazda 6 wagon as a replacement Man, E30 M3 prices have gone mental all over the world.! If you want to go ‘M’ the E46 M3 is probably the best bang for buck at the moment. The CIO of where I work has got an E30 M3 as a track toy, costed him $15k to get the S14 properly rebuilt.! S14 parts are not cheap and complete engines are worth a fortune. Even 325is`s are between 20k – 30k these days. I personally have never seen an 18 sri E30, probably one of the very last to get registered in SL. Wonder whether there are any 2 doors in the country.

I like most of the pre-year-2000 BMW`s and I especially like the E30 series. I own a 1991 318is (2 door with M42 motor) although not in Sri Lanka. Are there any E30 nuts here? Either series 1 (1983 - 1987) or series 2 (1987 - 1994)? There is a FB group called ‘BMW E30 circle Sri Lanka’ but I don’t find the group very active. I thought I saw an E30 running at the Katukurunda drags yesterday, but the video wasn’t very clear so couldn’t see much details. Anyone know about E30`s with engine upgrades over there (i.e. M50 engine swaps)?

Yes, totally get the retarded tax structure and the influx of Hybrids that got in as a result. It’s unfortunate that the clueless common car buyer is affected really. Though there is an obvious saving in fuel usage, I’m sure the saved foreign exchange will be offset by service and repair expenditure of Hybrids over the long run (say average Nissan N15 which is 20 years old now, against a 2012 Prius). Even though repair expertise is there, certain components are horribly expensive when they break. I refuse to buy a new car until I can afford a pure EV. I will always have at least one internal combustion oil burner for weekend fun, but the simplicity and the architecture of an EV is really cool.! Can’t think of anything better as a daily hack.

Don’t know jack about where the SL car market is heading, but as far as I can see Hybrids are a ‘bridging’ technology that`ll hopefully get faced out within the next decade or two. At the moment, these makes sense in certain markets with strict regulations on fuel consumption ratings, CO2 emissions ratings, etc… Also makes sense in markets where expected life of an automobile is <10 years and new car purchases are justified by low interest finance etc... Compared to the beautiful simplicity of a pure EV or even compared to the relative simplicity (and more importantly the simplicity of long term servicing/repairing) of a Petrol power-plant, I think hybrids are just over complicated for what they offer and are more suited to the buy new, use, and ‘throw-away’ sort of markets. EVs will catch up soon and Hybrid production will only be beneficial for certain markets/users where EV range is a concern.

I like this thread..! One of the handful of interesting threads apart from all the 'what can i..' 'how can i...' 'where can i... ' etc...

One day, if i have more storage space I might get another The chassis is quite weak on these cars, especially with no roof to aid with rigidity. So if the ‘non original’ cars are half cuts with are later joined together, could be extremely risky to drive around at speed. As you said, would be wise to stay away from those. Congrats on the ND.!! My god, I dream about doing the ‘18 wanguwa’ road on one of those..! I am sure I’ve seen it on VVTi`s FB photos, didn’t know it was yours.!

Going OT here... But a quick note about the E30… The E30 is all original which I “hope” to keep that way (give it year or two and we all know how it goes…) Some minor mods/improvements so far…. ** quicker steering rack from a BMW Z3. Complete power steering mechanism rebuilt from hoses to steering link to tie rods ** shifter rebuilt with a Z3 short shifter ** Ligtweight flywheel, bigger clutch ** upgraded engine mounts (poly), upgraded gearbox mounts and various other rubber mounts and bits ** Suspension rebuild – Bilstein B8 shocks and H&R lowering springs. Other bits like strut mounts, wheel bearings, etc… all replaced ** Ultra Racing front and rear strut bars ** Recaro SR3 front seats from an Integra Type R ** Brake upgrade with ATE slotted rotors, braided brake lines, new pads etc…. ** a number of little interior bits, rubbers, engine belts, coolant hoses, gaskets, bolts, reservoirs, caps, etc…

In other news, the MX5s void was filled with this. A 1990 BMW E30 318is. Similar platform to the little Mazda (front engine – rear drive, 4 cylinder motor, light and agile, etc….), but completely different in character..! The Mx5 wins as a purpose designed proper sports car, but for me the E30 turned out to be a better package overall.