JadeyBlitzen

I doubt it. but then again afaik you only get the manual option in X grade in 141s so I doubt this is F/O as he says

Thanks guys! Its very difficult to price an original cos they are rare. so they fetch whatever the price the owners name. The cheapest I've seen is a SR40 (2.0l petrol 2wd) Townace Noah Super Extra with twin sunroofs and Power curtains with blue/grey interior with a grey paintjob, KB reg I think for 3 mil at a car sale. they were happy to part with it for 2.9 mil Then I found one imported from New Zealand in 2008 with a PB registration. again a petrol SR40 with 2wd but this was Townace Noah Royal Lounge in Brown. So same interior and options as mine. but it had power curtains. The current owner has got it for 3.6 or 3.7 and he's got an offer of 3.8 mil for it. There's currently a Townace Noah Road Tourer (bodykitted version) on AL classifieds. Its not the top of the range model. but this is a facelifted version so it carries the 2.2l turbo intercooler diesel. priced at 4.6 million. So i'm guessing it you are looking at about 5 mil if you are trying to pick up one of the last few (It went out of production in Oct 2001) Townace Royal Lounges or Liteace V's with all the options and that intercooled engine. although I havent seen any later fully specced models here As for mine the last offer I got was 3.5 mil from a broker. an original of this vintage (97/98) should fetch around 4-4.5 mil They are gone. sold to the neighborhood tyre shop for 12500. the owner fitted them to his delica and now thats gone too. anyway those were too wide and they were rubbing against the sliding doors when we opened them. and the wheel bearings wore out a little too often too. I went for these wheels for the sake of originality. cos those are factory wheels for the 4wd. but now I'm looking for a set of BBSs

These are some of the pics I took during the conversion This was taken while we were adding the sunroofs individually. note the completed door shutting job This is while we were welding the seat mounts on to the floor. note the green welded bits on the floor. without those the 3rd row seats don't fit properly nor function properly. Here's a picture of the completed door shutting operation. I even added the filler flap from a four door cos they are slightly different around the edges. These are the pipes that connect the rear a/c to the engine. it came with the kit and the vehicle even had the retainers in some places despite this being a cargo version. here's the much demanded shot of the rear bump stops. notice how the axle doesn't have square contact section to receive it. I'll add pictures of individual extras this vehicle has over other noahs and cr/kr/4*/5*s There are over 70 that you don't get in a basic cr41 so this will take a while.

As promised here's a summary of the Noah conversion I completed in February 2011 Basically I took a 1997 Liteace Super CR51V and turned it into a 1998 Liteace Noah V CR50G Our family had this vehicle since 2001 and it was my faithful old daily runner when it went under the knife. This is more or less what it looked like before the conversion. The noah conversion craze was around even at that time but most people's idea of a complete noah was limited to the front "crystal lights", noah tailgate, complete upholstery and some alloys. at that time those bits were relatively expensive considering the vehicle was bought for 1.125 mil unregistered and the tailgate and lights alone would cost over 100k. anyway I researched over the years and decided to add all the parts from the version with the highest options of that vintage. So I tracked down a complete kit for just 250k without the drivetrain bits (big mistake!). and its only after I saw the list of parts they provided that it occured to me how much a noah is different to an ordinary cr/kr 41/42 or 51/52. and how difficult it would be to find these parts individually using an epc. heck some didnt even have part numbers on them. It had 48 different parts categories and nearly all of them were different to the parts we get in our vans. so with the help of dozens of pictures, press benders, lots of belgian steel and a little ingenuity here and there we completed the job within 3 months. Some of the significant changes Engine: 2C-III 2.0L N/A diesel > 3C-T 2.2 Turbo diesel Gearbox: G52 5 speed > G53 5 speed (has more linear ratios) Suspension front/rear: stock/noah springs and bump stops axles and differentials front/rear: 4.778:1/4.778:1 > 4.1:1/4.1:1 without the square bump stop contacts Exterior: All the standard noah bits, sunroofs, window frames painted in black using pics from an original noah, painted the mudflaps in white to match white package specs (although in the original white package the mudflaps are made of white plastic, and there's a coachline on both sides of the body), Noah 4wd wheels, original stickers, white door rail (not painted) to go with the rest of the body, The sliding door has a self closing mechanism, reflective rear windows (this was an option on noahs) the entire body was finished in 056 white (stock white paint is 058 for the van version, which is more yellowy) Interior: All the bits from a top of the range 1998 Noah V (same as Royal Lounge) so it also has its back windows tinted in brown. The only options I'm missing are tweeters and power curtains. and this is what it looks like now The trickiest parts were, 1. adding the 2 sunroofs, which would have been much easier if you had a cut of the complete roof (mine came as 2 blowtorch cut squares) 2. sealing the rear right hand side door and lowering the step to accomodate the rear a/c, this is the trickiest part of any noah conversion. cos either the van came with 5 doors or 4 doors with no cavity for the a/c. some people try fabricating boxes and welding them to the floor on 4 doors. but lowering the side step brings out the best results but that does mean you have to seal the door in a neat manner. some don't bother with this at all. that's why there are so many noahs today with a 5th door that cannot be opened. my suggestion is if you are really serious about getting the factory presses and welds right go for a "sidecut" of a noah complte with the side step. those go for about 250k a piece 3. tracking down all the drivetrain bits needed. (Engine, Gearbox, axles with the right gear ratios, this being a 4wd it needed 2 and all the various suspension components). Like I said buying a kit without the drivetrain is a big mistake unless you really know your noahs. so try to buy the complete kit with drivetrain bits. they cost between 650k to 800k.

Merry Christmas people!

is it eagle by any chance?

now now. Be nice to him guys. I think he's a budding genius. Imagine how much people like celery manufacturers can benefit from a marketing person like him

there's a shop in maya avenue that sells glasses. they used to sell scale models upstairs. I bought an autoart montero from them many many years ago. hope they are still in business

5 mil is waaaay too much for an axio. you can get a nice allion for that kinda money with more options. but the problem with both of these cars is they'll be replaced within the next 2 years. the prius it won't be. but you seem like a safe conservative guy who's new to this car business so the unconventional-ness of the prius might put you off. my advice is get an allion. 5 mil will get you a nice used example with multifunction and hids or a little more and and you can get a mint unregistered one. I'm guessing the next gen version won't arrive in our shores till end of 2013. so your investment is safe. as for the axio expect to see an all new model here within the next 12 months

reading the older posts I realised most service places are exaggerating about the oiling side effects. sure oils have a tendency to eat into rubber overtime but that depends on the type of rubber and the oil. either way the bushes are pretty robust and can sure stand a thin layer of oil. the bottom line is most places don't have permission from the authorities to use these oils as they are located in urban and/or upmarket areas. cos this oil get carried with the wind and ends up on everything in that environment. not to mention peoples lungs. so god bless the workers who spray them onto your car. and marutis really don't have undercoating as standard and oiling them will actually help the rubbish steel the cars are made of (which come from melted down scrap metal) survive an extra couple of months or so. and don't worry about the oil harming the undercoat because most if not all of them are water based so those two don't really react.

we may have just come across the fastest bus in sl

I think the 110 mirror is similar. at least the main body. should be a lot cheaper too if you don't mention the name of your car. I hope you guys are aware this is not an isolated incident. mirrors of parked vehicles are being broken of their mounts using brute force. common targets are allions premios (260) axios and vitzs with their so called "winker mirrors". the broken of mirrors are put back together with parts from insurance salvage and sold for around 25k in panchikawatte, which is quite reasonable considering some of these retail at around 60k a piece brand new. So keep your vehicles parked in safe places and keep the mirrors folded at all times because it gives less leverage if the druggies arent using tools. in one case it wasnt just the mirrors an allion owner lost. the drivers side window was broken too while trying to break the mirror.

it does affect fuel economy and performance. the pipe should be of uniform diamater along its length if not there will be a certain degree of pressure loss. at least that's the idea. welded bits are ok but if the pipe gets narrow it does effect the efficiency of the engine

oh! I thought motion blur refers to all pictures in which a subject is captured while the background or other objects in the frame are moving regardless of whether the camera is stationary or not. Thanks for clearing that out

Hi guys! Have any of you taken any motion blur pics? as a kid I was mesmerized by all those cool blurry pics of cars in action in car magazines. I've tried it here and there with my run of the mill panasonic fx-35. here are some pics I took in February last year that I completely forgot about. apologies for the skakey pics cos I just held the camera with my hands. post any professional shots you guys have taken

not to mention parts and services would be cheaper and more abundant for the allion compared to the insight

michelins are considered too soft. and i've experienced this first hand. the xm1s in the noah are barely a year old and are ready to be replaced. I didnt even get 30k out of them. and you get punctured too easily. and they squeal quite a bit even when cornering normally with full load. bridgestones are grippy. I had potenzas in the rs and quick direction changes were a breeze with them. but even those wore out pretty fast. turanza's arent as good when it comes to cornering. and i dont know about their wear characteristics. anyway when you are buying tyres check out the treadwear rating. this says a lot about how hard the tyre is and how balanced it is between grip and durability. on real performance tyres you get a rating between 180-240. and on normal michelins you get about 320. it'll be 400 to 500 with cheaper brands like maxxis. but they sure as hell won't be grippy

Its a square black key tag like thing a lot like the one you get with the montero. my importer told me apparently they get stolen at the harbor. climate control will work provided you do the wiring properly and get a good a/c mechanic to hook it up to the compressor. mine came with the original piping and wire harness and the stock body even had provisions to fit the pipes. So fitting it was pretty straightforward. If you get it working its a gem of a system. Only the most expensive Toyota Wagons came with rear climate control. Like the top end landcruisers and some of the upmarket vans. even the brand new montero never had this.

Guys any idea where this guy is now? He had knack for locating rare parts. I'm guessing this was arson

Did you get the remote with the kit? and the rear a/c unit, is it climate control? get a good person to wire this up cos some connection are missing I'm jealous now cos I didn't get provisions for tweeters in my kit

get Michelin Energy XM1's if you want quietness and fuel economy. Yokohama Aspecs or Turanza's if you want grip gt radials or maxxis if you want durability or good year duraplus if you want economy and durability both.

One's for purifying air and the other one's for ionizing it so you won't get little shocks during winter after you get out of the car