Saturn

Interesting photos Magnum... perhaps you can post a few unprocessed ones? I feel the added contrast/color/HDR'ish processing isn't ideal.

I'm use a cheap projector (1024X768) to watch HD movies and it is quite useable at around 80 - 100 inch image in a darkened room. 720p or 1080p would really be ideal but in the meantime this does pretty well for me. I've found that the key is to calibrate it well and use a good movie source - a good blu-ray disc generates excellent results - I would say that it is comparable or better to the local cinema experience in some cases.

Just to confirm - where does one send the "copy for the commissioner of motor traffic" of MTA6? is it to this address? No. 341, Alvitigala Mawatha, Colombo 05, Narahenpita. found here. http://www.motortraffic.gov.lk/web/index.php?option=com_contactmap&view=contactmap&id=1&Itemid=129〈=en PS: I apologize if this question was asked before - I could not find the answer despite searching.

The most useful thing you can do to understand (and control) energy consumption is to buy a watt meter - just check ebay for them and make sure you get one with the square pin plug 220/240 v They can be got for under $20. Using this you can get an idea of how much devices actually consume. This can drastically vary depending on the manufacturer of product and the settings. These meters include KW measuring so you can plug into something like a fridge and see what is used for a day. Two useful things I've learned: - LED TVs are very efficient - I use a small one for regular TV and it is as low as 9 watts! - modern split type AC's are quite efficient. At a low setting you can easily use one for just 3 - 5 KW per day. There are some simple things you can do to reduce energy used for cooling. For example, painting the exterior walls white will reflect sunlight and reduce the need to cool the building... etc.

http://otpoliticalposts.forumotion.com/t1593-good-gravy-what-an-idiot

As he says, it is a fairly rare vehicle here. By truck yes I meant a pickup , or "double/single cab" as people call it here.

http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=109429 Not sure if this qualifies, but it looks nice!

However, the suspension is a bit bouncy. Not recommended if you have spine problems. I tried one (petrol version I think) it was not very comfortable due to low weight. I would not recommend it. This may be a crazy suggestion but have you considered a truck?

Gorgeous vehicle, congrats! shows what one can do if you think outside the box indeed!9 is really decent in city driving. I'm curious... how much does it weigh? What engine does it have? nice to see another fan of two door vehicles. I'm not a fan of passengers myself

True. On the other hand this means that some good vehicles are comparatively cheaper because the herd hasn't noticed them / doesn't see value in them.

Such a beautiful car - congrats and good job on keeping it original. Its really sad to see how some people try to 'improve' these classics...

Isn't that how it works here anyway - at least people seem to think that way :/

I am happy my post was useful, and relieved on the clarification re VIC!

Thank you. However I have heard that the emission test result should be on car and may be requested? This may be a new requirement... or perhaps I am wrong...

First off focus on safety. You don't want to cause accidents! 1. Keep your tires properly inflated 2. Ensure the vehicle is correctly tuned up (an emission test can give an idea). If not get it to a good garage and get stuff like plugs checked etc. 2. remove excess unnecessary weight from vehicle. 3. Accelerate gently, anticipate stops up ahead and slow down. 4. As pericles says, drive on the highest gear you can (e.g.5th) without overloading the engine. It depends on the car and other factors. In my car I can do minimum 45km/h on 5th at 1000rpm without much load but it is different for other cars, in most others you need to be much faster - and obviously if load increases / you have to go uphill then this changes. Google topics like hypermiling and efficient driving. This is not tot say you should try all the stuff you find but it can give you some ideas. Hope this is useful. Re RPM: It depends on engine and load... you want to keep the engine as low RPM as possible, WITHOUT the engine struggling / being overloaded. For a 1500 cc car, depending on load you may be in the 1000 - 1500 RPM when going downhill / low load on a flat road but anything from 2000 - 3000 RPM climbing hills etc, depending on how fast you accelerate. It is better to have the engine running at a higher RPM without much strain than it struggling at 1000 RPM with a heavy load. You can check this by occasionally switching to neutral when on load (but be careful). In such situations if the RPM rapidly rises to 3000 - 4000 RPM you are probably overloading engine. But always focus on the situation on the road and don't inconvenience others on the road. I am not an expert, this is just stuff I have read... I could be wrong, hopefully some automotive experts can chime in.

Early english number vehicles had a sheet of paper some referred to as a vehicle ID (I think) with various specifications of the car - is this no longer issued for new vehicles? or is only for certain types of vehicles? Also, what are the documents a person must keep with them in the car? I gather one must obviously have road licence and insurance... beyond that I take it the emission test is needed. What about other stuff like luxury tax receipt etc... are those needed?

Are you saying that the brake loses power at times and you have to press hard to get the car to stop? Perhaps it is a vacuum leak / brake booster issue? In your driveway with the car parked and neutral (engine on, press the brake pedal deeply a few times... if the brake gets very stiff soon and doesn't resume normal functioning perhaps this is a clue?) Disclaimer - I'm no expert on this or any automotive area.

I have always had positive experiences with ATCO on Stanley Tillekaratne Mawatha. They have always done good work, given me a warranty, and at times done free services even when the warranty expired. Disclaimer: I am not an employee/investor and am in no way connected to them. I recommend them because in this country finding a place that does decent work is rare.

They started out with auto electrical work but now do everything, even painting vehicles. The trend is to get a vehicle in, dismantle some parts, and then send the mechanics to work on other new vehicles. At about 4PM in the evening the finally come over and start fixing things. Not everyone is really bad. I recently took my vehicle to another place to do some suspension work on my car and they charged only around 2500 or so total for parts and work, despite it being quite a bit of work (about 3 - 4 hours of actual work).

Went to a popular "auto engineering" garage along baseline road (Orugodawattha area) and asked them to install an RPM meter for me. They quoted around "7k and 500 for labor". Seemed a bit steep for a simple job but I figure I'm here and too lazy to do it myself so might as well. I've got stuff done there before and they used to be reasonable so I shrug and say OK. Wait two hours to get a mechanic, no luck, so I step out to do some work during the lunch break. Come back and it takes them another 3 hours more. Final cost comes to over 9000 update: I think I posted this in the wrong section - it should go in the lounge. Moderators, feel free to move or delete

Thank you :)Say... is that a 505 in your icon?

Apologies for reviving the dead topic but... does one have to renew their licence if they have the old one? Mine is not faded, but it is the earlier version (black and white, without microchip).

Received the log book, it says dual purpose vehicle. Does this mean I can drive it?

Thanks for your detailed answer. You mentioned a category for single cabs and a separate category for dual purpose - is there a difference? Can I drive a vehicle in single cab category if it is registered as dual purpose in the CR book/revenue license?

Interesting. Does that mean that a truck must use the left lane?