The Don

Possible yes. You can re engineer the electronics to do anything you want. Probable, no. Quite frankly because sometimes its not just the hardware that needs to change. Also very few have the skills and the equipment to work on multi layer circuit boards of the type that are inside these units, and it has to be economically feasible as well relative to effort. But if you find a place, please do post back. A lot of people will be very happy.

Excellent simple explanation

Please check the classifieds. Users are not allowed to offer any other vehicles, or contact you on them using the forum or the pm system for obvious reasons.

To be honest if you have tried all the spare part shops, the other option to try is to buy them brand new. Do try old panchikawatte junk yards first though. These parts perish due to the suns UV rays so after so many years its difficult to find used items in good condition, unless you find a place with an entire dashboard.

IRage I think DVVT == VVT-i To be honest some of these might not even be trade marks. So different manufacturers might use them, and sometimes they might be shared under licensing anyway.

He's already answered your question. If it was never available as an option in the platform in question, it will probably not be wired for it either.

Well I do not know what the AC plug is. But if it is a thermostat or thermostatic switch, you need to replace with originals, as switches might fit in the hole, but might operate at different systems. Is yours a dual speed system? When the AC is switched on, normally the fans are on continously. The fans only come on when necessary without AC. You will have to explain what scenario you need to explain above. Also when the thermostatic switch is faulty or there is a break in the signal from the switch to the delay, the radiator fan will come on when you turn the switch to the on position. This is a particular type of circuit though I'm not sure which one you have. But those are the things you must investigate.

Its not the shocks. Its your alloys. The offset is not enough to clear the shocks when your car is fully loaded. You either need wheels with the correct offset so there is enough clearence, or you need to use spacers. Go to Amila in Hill street Dehiwala, they should be able to advice you. This is a typical problem of using oversize wheels. Remember clearence should be on both sides. The wheel should sink into the wheel arch as well, not just clear the spring.

Probably ok for scratches which are not too deep. But those ones can probably be sorted out via a bit of polish as well.

The best option I've found is to use tyres with an rim protector mechanism. They basically have a bit of overhang to prevent kerbing. You still have to be careful because depending on the alloy design you still might end up with components which protrude out and hit things, particularly on a high kerb.

So is fuel drawn to the car with aid of gravity and suction created by the pistons during cranking? Sorry, my knowledge in bike engines are limited but I assume a lot of concepts from car engines are transferable. If there is spark, reasonable compression, by a balance of probabilities once can asume its fuel delivery. I asume yours is not a version which is ECU controlled?

I guess you can do 2 things. A water sensor isn't complicated. You can fabricate a simple one yourself and fit it carefuly your existing fuel filter assembly area which separates water from fuel. This is not always possible. You might even be able to borrow one from another vehicle. Take the fuel filter housing from a more modern vehicle with the sensor and fix it in to yours. Note that from then onwards you will need to use a fuel filter for that vehicle. You will need to wire up the sensor to a light or something in the dash. Since they are likely to be 12v you might need a to wire in the power from 1 of the batteries directly. Just a very crude idea.

I'll take an easy option. Auto Miraj Pepiliyana junction Or ask your local garage. No need to come to Autolanka for eveything....

If you had a hard drive, it is good practice to let the engine cool down a bit before turning off, particularly if you have a turbo. 30 seconds to a minute is probably enough. Its just to let the oil cool and components cool down gradually for a bit.

Well he can test each plug by keeping it out and cranking. He should see a good spark. I kind of think it could be the carbs. All the vaccume lines ok?

Two other possibilities 1. Fuel pump issues, air in the fuel line, or air getting into the fuel line due to a faulty clip 2. Engine is under compression so while its warm the piston gap is too great to provide enough compression for ignition..... So you can confirm there is spark? Have you checked if there is fuel? I assume the bike has a mechanical fuel pump. Does it have a hand pump as well?

Supra, I'd hate to think how many people you would want to kill of one of these jokers decide to put even a scratch on............ Like a friend said over a decade ago, maybe we should all graduate to a gona model pajero or a double cab. Sits high enough to be safe from these morons, and you don't care about the scrapes etc

Search the forum for tuneup. Plenty of information. Your car does not need a specialist. The thing to mention is remove and check the injectors and if they look spoiled or have gunk in them get them cleaned using ultrasonic cleaning. Otherwise its a standard service plus new plugs, new filters, sensor, throttle body, injector cleaning. A tune up is not 100% necessary on a new purchase. but its a good idea to check if ATF fluid was changed on schedule, and if not get that changed, and give the car a good standard service and wheel alignment.

He's only created 2 if you discount the duplicate. We'll give the dude another chance. Failing which moderation queue it is. OP, consider this your last warning. Be considerate when using the forum, and please use the search functionality. You will find lots of interesting information in previous discussions.

Look, we thoroughly disapprove of you opening duplicate threads for the same question. Second, being rude to other members is not going to get your question answered. Tilvin was pointing out the obvious and doing so very politely. You on the other hand have not been as gracious. Why do you think you deserve an answer to your question. Do you think the people over here are paid for sharing their knowledge? They are all amatuers and do so out of community spirit. This kind of attitude is NOT welcome. As this is a duplicate, I'm merging the topics together

I've seen the engine code JLγ-4G18 DVVT. 4G18 is a Mitsubishi engine code. Make of it what you may.

I'm curious about this but from a different perspective. I wonder if the solar unit is a static fixed or a mobile unit. I'm not 100% sure if a mobile unit is practical, as you will need to carry it around and it will take ages to charge. If this was practical Nissan should have integrated solar panels into the car itself, which is not a half bad idea. If its a static unit, I assume whether it will be a unit that sells power units back to the national grid. To me again this is the only practical method. Doing anything else will require batteries for storage and that is less efficient. Its a lot better to sell to the grid during the day and by back at night when the car is at home charging. The issue is always when the car is not home.

In Sri Lankan high ways available at the moment, you will be on the road maximum for 2 hours, even if you are going all the way to Matara. I really don't think that is enough of a distance for cruise control to make a difference via fatigue. I do a lot of motorway driving and only start to feel fatigue past the 2 hour mark, approaching 3. I usually just take a break. I have cruise control but rarely use it, as I feel that at time if i I didn't even have throttle control, I will slowly lose concentration and fall asleep particularly when driving by myself early morning. Motorways are rather boring to drive on. Mostly straight roads, not much traffic at that time and constant speed. I'm sure this is different to others but the fatigue argument still holds true methinks. Also I would not trust a retro fitted cruise control system. The safety override is particularly important in an auto vehicle. In a manual you can always just press the clutch and brake if the throttle does not disengage when braking. Also newer systems are quite complicated. My system accelorates and brakes to maintain exact speed and the car is manual.

I wonder if the high speed isn't being activated then. You kind of need to check the service manual at this point to check how to test the fans. They normally always give parameters, like at what temp speed 1 will be activated and at what temp speed 2 will be activated, general circuitry and test method.

Don't think you have to worry too much about costs of themorstatic switches etc yet. To be frank the themostatic switch is probably not going to be that expensive, even a genuine replacement, which I suggest you use. The fan will be a bit more interesting. If it is a single speed fan, you might even be able to find another fan motor locally and swap, as long as it runs at the same or similar rpm. The other option would be a used replacement, or failing which a new item. They don't tend to be that expensive either. Dual speed fans on the other hand are a bit more expensive. John Cooper raises an interesting point. The circuit I've described is the older static fan control circuit which uses relays and a thermostatic switch. It is possible your fan is ECU controlled, so you will still have a couple of relays, but the trigger will come from the ECU based on the input from the thermo sensor to the ECU. Based on your temperature gauge readings your temp sensor is probably ok. You can figure out if your fan is dual speed by counting the number of wires going in. Single fans normally only only have 2 wires going into them, but dual speed fans will have more (3 or 4). But before going to these extents, just do the simple tests first. Make sure the fans come in on time while idle They rotate properly without obstruction or noise They blow enough air and in the right direction