The Don

I know the question is addressed to Supra, but thought I'd provide a bit of perspective. Manual imports have gone down significantly due to the market prefering autos. But some of us still prefer a stick shift and wonder what the fuss is about So personally my opinion is, if you are after a manual, do not make things like colour a sticking point, because you might be dooming your chances of getting a good car like that presea guy by being too picky, when the selection available is so small. Concentrate on buying a car which is well maintained and in good condition, so you can look forward to trouble free motoring. This is the first one I've seen up for sale, so they don't come up too often. This is not a sales pitch by the way. I stand to gain nothing by getting Supras car sold. But I've spoken to plenty of guys who've missed out on good cars because of criteria. Aesthetics are important, but its a lot easier to paint a car rather than correct issues caused by accidents and bad maintenance.

Yeah, but in Europe, unless there are casualties, or laws have been broken vehicle accidents are not considered police matters. They tend to encourage the matter to be settled via insurance. Its only when this fails and thats pretty rare do matters end up in court. To be honest, I think that model would work better in SL. Sri Lankan cops are not going to become angels anytime soon, and I'd rather not trust them. There is plenty of evidence they manipulate evidence and make false accusations to extract bribes. At least insurance companies will be driven by comercial interests, and would be more likely to settle amongst themselves better in a sensible manner than with police involved.

Sampath, Delhi heat is dry heat so as long as you are not exposed to it directly its not too bad. Growing up my parents didn't have the money to invest on air conditioning. But our house was quite comfortable to live in and sleep in and the fans never ran at more than the first settting at night. Even now when I go home and struggle to adapt as I live most of the year in a colder climate, the nights are very comfortable. The day is sometimes not as much but even that is sorted out by a fan. I do not know if anybody had noticed but old clay and kabok brick houses with local clay tiles are a lot cooler than the new architect design concrete blocks. This is because concrete is a more effective insulator. Part of the issue is I think that modern architects are schooled in western designs and have sometimes forgotten to adapt it to local problems. For example its cheaper to build with concrete blocks, asbestos sheets etc and they are very effective in colder climates and not as much in more humid warmer climates. What you need is to engineer air flow throughout the house so warm air rises through the houses and gets expelled through at the top through convection. I think this is necessary even when you have air conditioning. Intentionally or unintentionally my house has benefited from the following 1. All brick build 2. Clay roof tiles 3. Plenty of vents on windows 4. Plenty of trees in the garden particularly in front of windows providing cover from direct exposure to the sun 5. While there are many internel doors, they are mostly left open so plenty of ways for the air to flow through the house I think what might have helped further would have been higher ceilings. I've been thinking about a little place of my own so reading this thread has been very useful

Wheel paint is slightly different as they have to sustain higher temperatures. And as long as you have a paint code, a paint shop can mix and give it to you without issue. You should mention its for alloys, though from the code they would probably guess that.

But isn't that in the best interests of your insurance company to claim from the other insurer if they are at fault? I know there isn't any point comparing the UK but they sell special insurance to cover this eventuality called Motor legal protection. Basically the process is 1. If the other party accepts blame, the claim is paid out by the other insurer 2. If blame is contested then it goes to court and motor legal protection will cover the legal costs of your insurer who will pursue the other insurer. But you don't have to wait to get your car repaired. While this goes on, your insurer will pay out and get you back on the road Considering SL legal costs, and claim costs I think it makes sense for insurers to either aggree to their own board of arbitration or pursue the others in court to recover their costs in a not to blame situation.

Why I asked about cooling towers is because about 15 years ago, I visited a small apartment complex (only 6 units of which only 3 were complete when I visited) and they had a central air conditioning system with a cooling tower. So the system was only cooling 6 bed rooms and 3 living areas. I asumed at that at that level it was economically feasible, as Gingers own home seems to be 5 bed rooms and probably at least 2 living areas. It was a guess of course. I have no idea of actual costs.

I was referred to this by other forums. Seems to be the most succesful solution http://www.frostfighter.com/index.htm?gclid=CITHpejZ5sQCFQjKtAodfE0ACQ There are other conductive glues, even available retail from places like Halfords in the UK, but the feedback isn't that great. Thats why I thought to ask. Ironically Sylvi might have a solution. Sometimes a bit of Sri Lankan old fasioned inginuity does help. HC, if I bring this down, you can have the leftover to fix yours. I don't think it needs a lot of glue. (also fancy giving Sylvi a call?)

Yes, but they don't have any mechanism of taking the air inside out to replace with fresh air do they? What they do is blow fresh air in, and rely on other mechanism for circulation. I take your point there about the advantage of having separate systems for each room vs having a centralised system, because it does contain it.

More importantly I hope his insurance pays for your car to be repaired at Colonial to Factory original condition.

aadl198733 If you don't have the courtesy of putting some work into research before asking questions, we won't answer your questions period. Please don't waste other users valuable time, by not searching as there are multiple threads on the above subject.

Actually, you do not need to use any silicone sealant if you do it properly. The specialist windscreen bonding compound, when laid on a properly prepared surface will provide all the bonding and sealing you need. In fact I'll feel suspicious if they have used other compounds to fill up the gaps because thats indicative of a shoddy job. You need to keep the path ways which water runs down clear.

Interesting topic. Has anybody tried Frostaire as they are a farily old company which has been in business for a while. Can only be a good things. Also there is a brand called Daikin. While its of Thai origin, its funny enough something I see quite often in a lot of places I've travelled so I assume it can't be half bad. If you are trying to air condition an entire house, does it not make sense to get a cooling tower and have a centralised system? Finally, I've never coped well with A/Cs in houses. I find the effect rather dehydrating so have a habit of switching them off and using a fan, particularly when I was in New Delhi for a month and a half. Now obviously Delhi isn't very humid. But it raises an interesting question on having air conditioning. Also the bacterial filters on some are very useful, because humidity will cause some mould growth sometimes inside ACs so the filter will keep some of that stuff from being circulated. Also you have to consider the health aspects of living in an air conditioned environment with all the windows closed and air being recirculated a lot more, because this can spead any unhealthy microbes, say if one member of your family is sick with a cold or flue. This is what the baterial filters are supposed to take care of though I'm not sure how efective they are in real life. In terms of Warranty, I do not know about their AC division but their consumer goods division is rubbish. I've known of guys, even on this forum who bought their direct drive washing machines only to be told they were unable to repair faults under warranty. The same happened with an LG TV I had which they could not repair either. So don't have much confidence on their after sales support. In terms of panasonic I've had nothing but good things to say about Uni Walkers in terms of repairs, though not sure how its like under soft logic.

This could cause a pre ignition knock, as petrol might ignite as it comes into contact with hot carbon, before the spark plugs gives a spark. The solution is what VVTI suggests above. Its worthwhile doing it anyway even if its not the exact issue.

I know man. I'm surprised. To be honest I guess the demister isn't much use in SL because of the warm weather so probably most don't notice when its broken. My car has such an effective air conditioner that the windows mist up from the outside early morning and late evening, making visibility very difficult. Its also useful in the rain. So I straight away noticed when it wasn't working, and on closer inspection found the connector had detached from the glass. Needless to say I was very annoyed with whoever took that windscreen off, which had been on ever since the car rolled out of the factory. They must have pulled the glass out with the connector still on. I can't replace the rear glass just for this, as its the original factory glass, so would very much like to get it fixed. Seems nobody has had any prior experience...........

Good choice!

Hi guys, I need some help. While taking off the rear windscreen off to attend to some rust issues, a rookie mechanic has managed to break off the electrical connector attached to the rear demister matrix on the windscreen. Its the connection you normally plug the electrical plug to, and now its attached to the connector and not attached to the windscreen anymore. This means the demister no longer works (obviously). Now I checked online and there are a number of solutions listed, mostly reattaching it with conductive glue. Some glues seem to be better than others. The best one I found need to be imported down from US (thankfully the seller posts internationally) but like with anything there is no gurantee of success. I wonder if anybody has had this issue resolved locally and what method they used. And anybody you know who can repair this professionaly. Thanks so much!

Think a brass tank is fine, but the plastic replacement is available. Why don't you check with their head office?

The question now is, what do you wear Gunat, if you post some pictures, maybe iRage can read the Kenji and point you in the right direction.

I'm sure in China, that has a deep meaning like prouncing horse behind a hedge in the field gazing at the stars and wondering. Thats kind of what I figured after visiting the country.

There is also a case of the known devil being better than the unknown saint.

Actually you are probably correct. They probably still have the dealership but don't import the 500. But ITMC have started to import the 500 in small quantities and stock parts for them, though as you can expect its a bit on the expensive side.

This is a long shot, but I got this off another Alpine model Setting the Time to automatically Adjust When you set to ON, the time is automatically adjusted by RDS data. 1 Press and hold SETUP for at least 2 seconds to activate the SETUP mode. 2 Turn the Rotary encoder to select the Tuner mode, and then press ENTER. Bluetooth  General  Display  Tuner  USB  Bluetooth 3 Turn the Rotary encoder to select Auto Clock, and then press ENTER. 4 Turn the Rotary encoder to select ON or OFF. 5 Press and hold SETUP for at least 2 seconds to return to normal mode. Notes • Pressing  during the procedure will return to the previous mode. • If no operation is performed for 60 seconds in the SETUP mode, the setting mode is cancelled.

The last I heard the rate for a brand new import, imported unofficially is over the 4 million mark. Fiat sadly has no official agent in Sri Lanka at the moment.

Yeah man, I feel for you. But this is the only silver lining in your situation. I was in the same situation a decade ago. My Mitsubishi engine started making the dreaded tappet noise, and replacing tappets with used ones only worked for a couple of months. So I had the option of either getting the tappet guides rebored and doing a partial rebuild or replacing the engine, and I took the latter option as it just so happened an engine was found for a pretty reasonable price and I did not have faith in the machine shop to do a good job after the first fix failure. Since then I've discovered that there is another better fix for this issue which is to replace the tappets with ones with slightly bigger oil lines and that is supported to keep the issue at bay. So I now plan to put that option into action on my old engine, rebuild it and put it back in the car. Even the new engine has the tappet noise during warm up but then seems to go away (the issue is car doesn't get used enough so the oil tends to settle and sludge a little bit.....) My point being the partial rebuild will buy you between 50-100k kms if its done properly, without having to work on the internals again. Just get it cleaned completely of sludge, blocked water lines etc, replace all packing, oil seals and gaskets with originals, replace valve seats with originals and the piston rings, well at least with good quality replacements. Replace the bearings as necessary. What you will have in the end is a fairly good strong engine. Your block and head are probably still in good condition. Usually its the valve seats that tend to go and burn oil at higher revs. The rings you are replacing only because you can. But make sure the machine shop you use know what they are doing, because its in their hand really. Try to use as many close to genuine products as possible. Else the end result will be poor.

If they are going to open the engine up, might as well do the partial rebuild I mentioned above. It will inject new life into the engine and make it last a whole while longer. The chances are its probably due now anyway and economical to do it now since the engine is open. Have the valve seats replaced with originals, new piston rings and any oil seals and necessary bearings. Do it right and you wont need to open the engine up during your ownership. You need a gasket set anyway now.