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Are u trying to turn off 4wd For better fuel economy? As far as I know it's not a possible thing electrically You might as well then remove the 4wd front prop shaft and blank it off with plates to prevent oil spilling out. U can proceed to taking out the front 4wd diff and the cv joints as well if so. But the bottom line is why go to ruin a perfect driver aid when you could have bought a 2wd one? Oh then again 4wd vans come cheap don't they. I had one a long time ago and my verdict is this. The 4wd system is very decent and very grippy and the added clearance helps. Entire suspension is much more rugged and guarded for a subtle off-road run. On a bumpy or bad road you can draw rings around vezels but the overall fuel economy is kinda less , if it's a 2c it is horrendously slow and the front CVS need replacement every 20000-30000 odd km and the auto gearbox model tends to need a gearbox every 100000 odd km. The above are based on my personal experience btw. I used the vehicle for about 200000 km with original spec then upgraded all to 3c-te manual 4wd. Was 325000km when I sold it. My opinion don't go to mess with the 4wd system. Full time 4wd or Awd in these vehicles are not the same as running on 4H all the time on your Hilux or L200 They are designed for grip and economy to an extent. Cheers

Working with defenders ain't going to go cheap, if you want a professional job expect between 0.7-1.0 mil with specialist sub-oem gear. Variables are the YOM of the vehicle, and condition engine type, bulkhead etc and how well you intend to do it. My opinion is to stick to Land Rover bits or parts that are made for Land Rover so that it will hold some value but do mind you will not what you spend for them. I will not comment about putting Jap parts etc. Best bet is swap it with Discovery gear but again you will need special conversion kit bits for gauge cluster, trim etc and also this will work pre-2007 models as old Discovery 200tdi 300tdi engines could be planted to defenders with the auto gearbox. There were NAS spec and specialist UK models sold factory auto but are uber rare now. All in all its a very tedious and expensive job, not worthwhile doing the crime to a serious off roader, as plenty of SUVs in the market with auto transmission, but if you still want the looks and auto, All the specialists in the Country may be able to handle, provided you save a buck by getting down the internals. Also if the heavy clutch is your issue, there are plenty of kits to add a servo unit to make it feather light!

I had one for over 12 years back in the day, have tried the hoist method and it works. Neutral and spinning the wheels on a hoist also works but only if u spin a rear wheel, a front wheel will just spin freely but if u rotate a rear wheel the front will also turn. There are 2 variants, If you have an automatic transmission, it mostly goes 2wd and engages automatically almost every time you put your foot down etc, but if you have a manual transmission its Full Time 4wd.

Drive up a slippery hill, or Put it up on a hoist and drive

Hello there gentlemen, Coming back with a subtle question regarding the 4D56T engine in these vehicles, After visiting a bucketload of vehicles for sale and various adverts, car sale fellas etc, I am puzzled as to the real life in kms of these engines, some say go low mileage others say even a 100,000km is fine I mean is it safe to land a vehicle with 100,000km locally or stretch my budget a bit and go something at the 50,000km mark? after all I too would like to save a buck and consider using it to improve it I know the 80s models (Palath Sabha) models running 250,000km and still not burning oil but with the turbo and high compression. An opinion would be greately appreciated

After talking to a few automotive gurus well known in this forum and after multiple conversations with car sale owners. Sadly this vehicle has a bucket load of bad reviews. I'm yet to confirm these but they list as. Engine milage approx 200,000 km and a overhaul is due mostly Bumpy suspension. Body too heavy on a L200 chassis, boat like handling, massive body roll and understeer. Underpowered for the size Fuel economy approx 10 to 12kmpl Resale value and demand not that impressive. Hope this will be useful for future inquirers. A detail review yet to be added. Thank you

Just that I have got this phobia to stick to Japanese, atleast for now but thanks a lot that you gave me an alternative! Turbo lag is something I'll have to see myself, given that the Hilux too has a lot of lag, any clue of their engines? as in mileage and probable wear? I have noticed the awkward seating height and rear seats, I believe the 3rd row of seats weren't equipped in all the imports Also on further research there is a Manual Transmission less bling spec in the island

There's no diesel montero in the above budget mate, if at all must run back to pre 2000s I guess most likely to have moderate running repairs all over. First time I heard that. Have not paid much attention on the vehicle earlier, I am looking replace the hilux with one out of necessity for a 7 seater. Nothing else, trying to save myself the off road capability hence this choice. Plenty of wagons and people carriers newer and cheaper in the market otherwise. Of course the fortuner which i'd love to bag. It's out of my budget at 9 mil +

Hi people of autolanka, Haven't been online here a while and thus I believe my past account by the same name has been deleted, hence not my first post. Wanted an honest opinion on the 2011 / 2012 Montero sport model as I am considering one myself, Prefer a diesel rugged SUV in comparison to newer hybrid variants and "Vezels" and their mimicry, but I can't fetch enough to own a politicians ride thus, I have been through the forum but sadly did not find much about the vehicle except for fellas asking for fuel consumption and some loose criticism from 2012. Would like to know how they are thriving now? I've seen that most for sale have run around the 50,000km to the 80,000km mark, How many healthy kms can the 2.5 4D56 DiD pull prior to a new engine? Turbo life? Suspension Issues? I know its not that comfortable but speaking of repairs? Body rust? What to look out for? I see that they run near the 7 to 8 mil mark so what would the idea sum be etc. Any experts? Current or past-owners, fellow enthusiasts please be kind enough to drop a note. Thank you!

I cannot quote an exact price without looking at the vehicle mate, but a 110 with 12J, whatever the spec or condition, under local circumstances, will not go for 4.7 mil, or anything north of 4 mil, unless some specific reason

Mate is this a 4 door?, Well if its original its worth a look, but the pricing is not realistic. With nowadays traffic, 12J in a 110 will feel quite slow, probably the engine and gearbox are quite worn and your whole driving experience won't be much, You'll pretty much end up regretting spending such a sum for a vehicle that aged. My best bet is offer a realistic price, bag it and restore it, or keep looking

Has anyone used Soltron on Common rails, Toyota 1KD / 2KD ?

AL Gossip; Schiffer is building something, anyone know what???

You could find these by the dozen in any recon parts shops mate, easy

Careful as many experts say they leak fine dust, esp with forced induction, komi had issues too

The stock diffs can hold the 33's, but you will need a 2" or high suspension lift. Pulling power will be reduced noticeably, lag will be more apparant also added wear on suspension bushings and added weight on stock joints and UJs as well. The standard flares won't clear the 33's and you will have a lazy brake system afterwards due to the added inertia. However with minimal mods you can run 33's but with compromise. 31's are already a notch higher than the stock 255s, I suggest unless you really want to go hardcore off road, to stick with the 31s as they can be run with no mods and is a good addon to the truck. Buy a fancy set, why not go steelies, painted black, that way you can still have the badass look

Are there any 2008 / permit ones which came with 4M40 stock?

May I ask the mileage of the engine mate, as i've been told that this 4d56 variant only does 75,000-85,000 ish km under local conditions.

Depends on your level of skill, I just broke it off the old key and carefully dissected the plastic remains

Swap this bit from your old key to the new key, I have a similar hilux key and have done it twice. Be sure not to damage it though.

Machan by the look of it, I wouldn't run that out of my drive way assuming its the dimensions you say it is and assuming this is from an average sedan, As for 100kmph, its more or less a joke to be even asking that, Besides its sorta patched up from the other side innit? Likely to seep out air when laden. What its the condition of the tyre overall? looks <50% from the picture But there are institutions that completely repair stuff like these and bumps etc, they did a feature in Autovision ages ago, I've no idea of the whereabouts now. If safety is your concern, please immediately tend to a new tyre, as even a blowout at 60kmph Colombo you might bump into some chap and end up fixing a Prius for the cost of that tyre.

If you source the leak, A knock-off version of Araldite would be a cheap fix, or even the real deal

We have tried KYB Gas on a LN106 Hilux back in the day, and the same 2wd variant Part Number was used in our CR51 back in the day all KYB gas, very bumpy but comfortable when laden. I suggest in going for a brand like atleast Gabriel, best if Oldman Emu or Rancho, have used all 3 of them and been troublefree