blkr6

its more like 60k and if you are doing the fist change you can just get by replacing the timing belt. but if you are doing the 120k i would recommend changing the water pump, crank shaft seal, camshaft seal, oil pump seal, idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time. Use only Mitsuboshi, Goodyear or Dayco brand timing belts because there are Chinese crap out there that's not worth the penny you save. you don't really have to take to the agent but make sure you go to a reputable mechanic who knows his stuff.

which ever floats your boat lol; beer, arakku, toddy, kasippu, ganja etc

you are welcome! you should be able to find it at a auto parts store. there is a disk brake quiet in a paste form and they work better than the spray. While you are at it buy a bottle of silicone spray and spray on all the chassis rubber parts (boots, bushings etc) and wipe off excess with a cloth, all the rubber parts will last a long time. my cv boots are all original after 120k miles (knock on wood)

i doubt about this device working

at least my vote is better than talking shit. let me add value to my response. 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid: my GF owns one, 90k miles, until this day almost nothing has gone wrong, had a "honda CVT shudder" and agent fixed it for free. 40-50 mpg (depends how you drive) 99 CRV- has one in my household and a friend owns it. ours got 160k miles and my friends got 200k. 19Mpg city 25Mpg hwy. Another great reliable vehicle. 09 Rouge (US cousin of the xtrail)- never driven it or owned one. My friend owns it and he loves it. 05 Sorento- my uncle has one, 50k miles, consumption is so so..., things have gone wrong: Wiper motor actuator, Dome light circuit diode and a factory recall. 3.5 liter engine, awesome power and reliability for the money you pay (not as reliable as japanese vehicles but they are getting pretty close).

some people here don't have any valuable responses to help anybody out. all they good at is to talk crap and increase their post count.

For economy Honda Civic Hybrid For Versetility Crv and xtrail (santafe and sorento are good alternatives too)

7. Remove the pins from the caliper bracket, clean the pins, and re-grease them 8. Install the New rotor, Caliper Bracket and the caliper with just one bolt as the picture below 9. Compress the caliper using the C-clamp 10. Install Pads 11. Slide the Caliper in and tighten both bolts. 12. tighten everything and double check for errors. 13. put back your wheel and make sure to install lugs in cris-cross pattern with even torque. 14. Pump the brakes and check the Brake Fluid level Your Job is done and enjoy the beer!

4. Remove the Rotor. Best way to do it is hit it with a hammer and it will come loose. (do not hit the stud) 5. Clean all the brake parts and new rotors with brake cleaner (new rotors comes with oil sprayed to keep in the parts store shelf with out rusting) 6. Get the New Brake pads and spray the back plate with disk brake quiet (this is a optional step, but this will absorb all the vibration and gives you quieter squeal free braking)

This job is done in a 1998 Toyota Avalon you can use this as a basic guide on any vehicle that you work on. Things your need, Jack, Brakes, Rotors, Brake cleaner, C-clamp, Socket set, Grease, Disk brake Quiet spray or paste, Gloves and Beer 1. Pull the Hand Brakes, Block the rear Wheel, Loosen lug Nuts, Lift the Car using a Jack, Support it with safety jack stands, Remove the wheel 2. Remove two 14mm Caliper bolts (i like to turn the wheel towards me so i have more room to work). Do not let the Caliper hang off of the rubber hose. Place it somewhere or use a bungee cord keep the weight off from the hose. After removing the caliper remove the Brake pads off of the bracket. 3. Remove the Caliper Bracket by removing two 17mm bolts

manufactures recommend the change interval by miles because its hassle free method to do it. but i personally don't do it by the miles i just check whether the filter is clean or not and change when its dirty. Cabin air filter interval depends on where the car is driven and how often you use AC/ heating.

good one!

thanks guys for your responses. @ Jami i have done few headlights and so far5mins @ 200F been perfect. more than 200 or longer time definitly would mess up the headlight.

I am a car enthusiest and i do not have one "best Car". i have bought and sold cars from so many different manifactures and i have few best cars that i have owned or driven. reliablity wise i love toyotas. 1992 Toyota Camry (400,000+ Miles) 1998 Toyota Avalon ( abused and still running: towed a 18 foot boat, towed a Ford expedition etc) 79 Toyota Hilux Most Practical yet powerful and handles well 2006 Subaru Legacy GT (AWD, 4 doors, Mid-size, Powerful) Quitest, Luxuriest and most comfortable (i never owned it but driven it alot) 06 Lexus LS430 Luxury Performance All the M3s (oned an older M3 but driven new a new one)

you are totaly fine in swaping it out with a 80 amp alternator. i have upgraded alternators upwards of 50amps above stock to help the power the demand of aftermarket audio systems.

i wouldn't delay the CVT transmission fluid change. in fact i would recommend you to change it earlier than whats recommended. make sure to use Honda CVT fluid (not to be confused with Z1) because it is very sensitive on what oil it uses. if its delayed for some time you will get the symptoms of whats called "Honda Shudder".

yes it is! They are proven Reliable, proven economical, and that technology is evolving.

haha how do you know? i have 183 dinky toy collection.

i work for the automotive industry and i know how interms of engine wear longer drives are better for the car. i am talking about electronic problems that pretain to VW /Audi vehicles. its a well known problems throught the world. i have owned an A4 quatro for few years and drove up to 150k miles with added costs that i described above. i use to change bulbs so frequently that i know the part numbers back of my head. dont get me wrong had lot of fun.

do you have a power antenna?

get a good quality undercoating, you will have a good protection from getting your underbody rusted and at the same time demands less underbody washes. i use a all purpose degreser (make sure its anti corroseive) and spray, brush/scrub, rinse with litte water and then wipe off dry with a cloth. if you maintain a clean engine you will never get to a stage that it requires lots of water to clean.

thats the only way to keep it from having electrical nightmares. dont drive it! +burning oil (that might be its because its boosted) and loosing expensive G12 coolant are added expenses too.

Be prepare to spend money on electrical items (window motors, power seat motors, wiper motors, etc) . Not sure about the TDI but on Gasoline engines are very sensitive if not well maintained with 5w-40 502 00/02 spec oil. it will sludege up if not. Keep extra pair of bulbs too (h7, 7506, 7225). if you baby it and dont put many miles on it then its a solid car! if you decide to buy and want parts, PM me i can hook you up becuse i got tons of parts laying around in my garage for A4s, Passats and Jettas.

when i was a kid my father bought my bike from there.

if they legalize larger displacement bikes, ill just ship my big boy bike down there and ride it when im on vacation. whats ironic is Sri Lanka got the best motorcycle roads and people cant use them.