Davy

Rumesh is right. I was indeed referring to the suction piston. I distinctly remember it being part of the carb repair kit. If I were you, I'd still look into the possibility of repairing the carb using a genuine repair kit. The carburetor you'll be buying will probably be a used one and God knows what issues it will have.

Not clear as to why your carburetor needs to be replaced because the piston is damaged. I'm pretty sure you get the piston as a part of the (genuine) carburetor repair kit.

No personal experience with Dum!nda, but his work is good as far as I've heard and prices are bit on the high side. Just make sure you don't let him turn that car into a fiberglass freak show.

Also, having a capacitor parallel to the bulb means that when the capacitor discharges, the current doesn't flow to the bulb totally, most part of the current travels outside the circuit to where the resistance is much lower. To prevent the current from flowing outside, you have to use a diode (a rectifier diode would do the trick I suppose). This way the capacitor is guaranteed to discharge only through the bulb. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, it has been quite a while since I got my hands on a circuit so I have forgotten most of what I have learnt in school

Are you serious?

This is supposed to be the car I'm talking about. Photo Credits: Pradeep (source: Facebook)

Welcome to the forum! Please do a search on the forum following the instructions given here. Finding a good tinkerer is proven to a be a very difficult thing. Where do you live? It's a car you've had with you for twenty years! You don't need anyone else's opinion to decide if you should spend on it or not. The car should pretty much be a member of the family by now.

Does the engine idle properly at 800 RPM? If yes, then it's probably a faulty oil pressure switch or low oil pressure as Rumesh has mentioned. What's the mileage of the car?

Why people use Nitrogen on standard cars is either because some vendor claimed untrue improvements about using Nitrogen, or because they were told by another person who uses Nitrogen that their car is better on fuel and feels much better to drive after using Nitrogen. If tyre pressure is checked periodically (ideally tyre pressure should be checked weekly - especially for a car that is not run daily), and if suspension components are good and are aligned/balanced properly, tyres will last their intended lifetime - without having to use Nitrogen. So, as The Don correctly mentioned above, Nitrogen is unnecessary for a standard road car,

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the Lancer family. UniMo will not charge you for an inspection. They will do the necessary checks and give you an inspection report free of charge. Just call them up to confirm. I personally think thy're the best, if it is just an inspection. They will of course tell you that you need to attend to every nut and bolt in the car, in practice you really don't need to. Just be mindful of that and you'll be all good. If I were you, I'd get the timing belt changed anyway - just to be safe. Make sure you use a genuine spares for this repair.

There are kits available for this if you don't want to go through the trouble of creating the circuit yourself. For example: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5392 With installation instructions: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_3068/article.html If you want to create the circuit yourself (which is what I would have done), then have a look at this: http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/Car_Dome_Light_Off_Delay/ Do share with us what you decide on doing. Good luck!

Saw photos of another Tesla Model S in the country (a black one this time) on Facebook.

Maybe you can look for a dash kit like this one?http://www.jjautomotive.eu/index.php?page=2&itm=664 The one in the link is not a AT212 dash kit, but you might be able to find one that's meant for yours. If all efforts fail, I'd dump the whole "wooden finish" and paint all the panels in a nice satin black or another colour to match the interior of the car.

Forgot that you opened a thread yourself about the subject? http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16355-engine-cleaning-of-hybrid-cars/

Welcome to the forum. Your car's idle controller mechanism maintains a higher RPM until the engine reaches operating temperature. The RPM gradually drops to normal as the engine reaches operating temperature. This is absolutely normal and you have nothing to worry about.

From sira's explanation,it sounds to me like the CV joints are worn out. The clicking sound from the CV joints is usually not heard when the wheels are pointing straight. And I like to think that OP was going in a straight line when he did 120. To determine if your CV joints are worn out, you can try taking a U turn while accelerating a bit hard (steering on full lock), making sure you don't spin the car. If you hear the clicking sound then, your CV joints are on their way out. Make sure you do this both clockwise and counterclockwise. This is a simple test, so only obvious cases can be identified by this method. A better test would be to have them inspected by a professional. If the CV joints are good, my next guess is that there is a slight bend in one or both (unlikely) of your drive shafts.

Thanks The Don. I thought I was being paranoid when I thought the home page was filling up with multiple, similar, useless threads. I'm going to quote OP here so that he doesn't miss this thread. Hi StarOnline, welcome to the forum. Please use this thread for all your "news" posts. There is a thread named Post Whoring which you can use as well. That way the forum stays clean. Thanks!

Oh yeah, that too!

That feeling when you find a car featured in Top Gear, parked right outside where you live.

If the oil pressure indicator didn't come up, then it is likely that the oil level didn't drop below the minimum level - which is a good thing. If this is the case, your engine would have not sustained any damage. So get the oil leak repaired as soon as possible. Does your oil pressure indicator light up when you switch on the ignition and go off when the engine starts up?

The model of your engine should be printed on a metal tag and attached to the body somewhere in the engine bay.

Back to OP. Like Rumesh said, the oil pressure indicator would have come on your dashboard as the engine started to lose oil. So for how long did you drive with the oil pressure indicator on? And what made you stop the car and check if something was wrong? Did you get a burning smell or did the car feel underpowered?

Could be due to: - Your engine is idling too low - A faulty oil pressure sensor - Oil pump needing replacement

I'm pretty sure I've shared this before, but I can't seem to find my own post, so here goes again: A few years back, when it was high time I was to give my car a full paint job, I saw this offer on a local deal site where Mr P a i n t offered a 50% off for a paint job exceeding 100,000. The T&Cs said that the maximum discount that will be given is 50,000, which means you get a fixed 50,000 discount for all jobs exceeding 100,000. I obviously thought this was a good deal and wanted to make use of the opportunity. I had previously gone to many paint shops and obtained estimates, and all of them ranged between 80,000 - 100,000. The deal site specifically had mentioned "obtain your voucher here and THEN go to Mr P a i n t" to get an estimate. I did the opposite because I wanted to know how much they will charge for a full paint job. So I went there. Two guys inspected my car from top to bottom and they quoted 130,000 for the full paint job. So this meant that I will end up paying only 80,000 if I had a voucher. I asked the guy to give me an estimate. And he was typing out the estimate on the PC when I started inquiring about the deal they have currently going. He said that it's possible and asked me to bring the car again with the voucher. The guy then paused preparing the estimate and went away for a bit and came back. After coming back, he asked me if he can send me the estimate via fax the next day. Although I didn't notice anything fishy then, I said okay and left. I never got the estimate the following day, or even the day following that. So I called him. After multiple reminders, I got the estimate. With a figure of 180,000. As obvious as it is, they have taken into account the 50,000 benefit that I will be making from the deal and increased the estimate so that they wouldn't incur a loss. I was furious and called the guy who prepared the estimate and his response was "sir giyaata passe api oka gana kathaa karaa, sir ge car eke wadeta kohomath mey gaana yanawa". I totally lost my cool at that response and I rang up the manager and blasted him for misleading customers and trying to rip them off. I also made sure that I contacted the deal site and had the deal taken off before some other soul got caught to their scam. I was lucky I didn't fall for it. This might not be related to the quality of their work, but I personally wouldn't submit my car to a workshop that is known for ripping people off.