Davy

In the CS, each brake pad has two metal retention clips holding the pad within the calliper. I believe earlier versions of the CS came with steel retention clips which are prone to deterioration. The rattle is probably due to misaligned/damaged/missing retention clips. In Elrond's case, a squeal can mean worn out pads or misaligned retention clips.Apart from the retention clips, each pad's outer surface (the surface without friction material) should be clipped to a metal shim which most of our incompetent mechanics remove, mostly because aftermarket brake pads don't fit on the shims properly. The calliper pin is pretty solid on the CS IMO. When I got my car, only the rear wheels had retention clips and the front was rattling really bad on rough roads. New retention clips solved the issue. Only available at the agents.

Well it does sound like one (or more, if available) ignition coils are going bad. If the engine has a "coil over plug" design, you can remove the mounting bolts of each coil pack and start the engine and then test each line as if you would test spark plugs. No change in RPM means the coil pack associated with that plug is bad. This might be harder to test if the miss is intermittent. Is this the Liana?

Assuming that your fuel injectors are fine, this might be due to a faulty ignition coil. Is the miss sharp or is it like a momentary loss of power? And when you said "burning fuel smell", I assume you mean unburnt fuel smell?

You can check if your shocks are okay by simply pressing the car on each corner and checking if the car keeps bumping instead of returning to it's original position immediately after pressing. If the front struts are worn out, you will notice that the front of the car dips down under heavy braking. If none of these symptoms can be observed, your shocks may still be okay. It just might be the bushes and linkages that contribute towards the rattling. I think I remember that the guy at UniMo who inspected your car at the free service campaign also said that the rear linkages are at the end of their lifetime. I agree with replacing engine mounts and even suspension components with genuine parts makes a huge difference when it comes to their lifetime. The last time I did a suspension repair, all the bushes and linkages I replaced was from the agent and they were okay even after a couple of years and until I sold the car. As for engine mounts, I think the front and rear engine mounts are the ones that are most probably worn out, because the other two are pretty solid. The two mounts are roll-stoppers and their lifetime is affected by a few things: 1. Your driving style: If you have a heavy foot and abruptly accelerate and race the engine, the mounts work constantly to keep the engine from "rolling". Thus affecting their lifetime. 2. The condition of the clutch: If the clutch is slipping, the engine will constantly be vibrating around the axis of the flywheel, again affecting the mounts 3. Idle condition: If the idle is rough, the mounts will be at work at all times, trying to dampen the vibration than normal 4. If either the front or rear mount is damaged, it will affect the mount on the opposite side and cause it to quickly wear out. Hope you get the issues sorted out soon. So are you set on changing the rim size to 15 and going for a set of alloys?

Sorry to hear about the accident. I have heard good things about Arabian although I don't have personal experience. They're work is supposed to be good. Go and ask for a quotation and proceed from there.

Someone please take my turn.

We also have our tyre prices thread which seems to have been forgotten. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/8191-tyre-prices/page-10 Please post there after you get the tyres.

Second gen Honda Stream.

Correct! No matter how small I make my images, someone gets it on the first couple of guesses. Will make it more tough for you guys next time.

Okay here goes:

Hi, Welcome to the forum. The Nissan Vanette has been discussed many times on the forum before. Please search using the guidelines given here. You can use an existing thread and continue the discussion if your questions are related.

Found an awesome set of training videos for the Evo X and most of them are applicable to the Lancer RalliArt, so I thought of sharing them on this thread. Part 1 of 5: Part 2 of 5: Part 3 of 5: Part 4 of 5: Part 5 of 5: Mitsubishi 4B11 Technical Training: Things to note: - AYC (Active Yaw Control) is available on the Evo but not on the RalliArt - The S-Sport mode is unavailable on the RalliArt although I have found places that re-flash the ECU to enable S-Sport mode - The battery is located in the engine bay in the RalliArt whereas it is located in the trunk in the Evo - The car that is used to demonstrate is a pre-2010 model which has the red multi info display Search Tags: Mitsubishi Evolution X Training Video, Manual, Engine Training Video, RalliArt Video, Technical Video

It's Aska and not Azka. Isuzu Aska to be precise.

Toyota HiAce truck?

Well that was a short love story... Hope you find a good car.

That body looks damn straight. Good job racerboy! As for the leather, colour changing is possible, but I'm not sure if there are local places that do it. The leather needs to be primed and the new colour sprayed on.

Correct! All yours mate.

Try this one guys. Should be easy.

Floor is open. Someone please take my turn. A bit busy at the moment.

I agree with Rumesh. Although the 2cm part that was cut off was the visible part of the crack to the eye, it would have cracked further internally, weakening the structural integrity of the hose. So I'd say replace the hose altogether. Also, have you replaced the radiator cap? From the photo, it looks like that's the original cap. When the engine is cold, remove the cap and check if the spring mechanism is working properly.

Scary http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-3281562/Tesla-autopilot-fail-videos-emerge-Terrifying-footage-shows-happens-autonomous-driving-goes-wrong.html?ito=social-facebook

3rd gen Mazda 626?

The AC compressor is engaged/disengaged using a magnetic clutch. This relay/fuse should not be related to your starting problem. So there is no need of replacing it if your AC is working properly.

Yes, a Mercury. A Colony Park to be precise. Only a little different from the Grand Marquis I guess. You can see part of a black Mercury with 39- plates in the background of the 4th photo in this post. I think that one was a Grand Marquis. Your turn mate...

I guess it's my turn. Keeping the hearse theme going... . Try this guys: According to my memory, the Galant Wagon (AKA Legnum) in Australia has a V6 Twin Turbo. The one posted by Sierra Charlie above is also a V6 I believe. I think I see a "V6" badge above the indicator on the fender.