nano31

djpra123, Buy original Asian brand pump from a reputed shop, any competent mechanic would do it, Total cost will be VERY MUCH lesser than what they offer at TL(plz note that mine is CE 110, diesel, old 2C engine, 24000 is only the price of the pump not the total cost!). There is no magic Toyota ppl do at their shop but the cost matter, you will be alright as long as you got good quality Japanese spares (OEM products).

I too had water pump leak in my CE 110 diesel, strangely it was only when the engine is cool, NOT when it is hot. It was only once in 2 week with prolong parking, when it was really cool down. I use my engine with that leak for 2yrs with close observation! I replace the pump (at the time of engine repair) with "Asian", made in Japan, it cost nearly 6500/=, at Toyota Lanka it was nearly 24000/=/. I suggest you to get it replaced with it original Asian, made in Japan, it is not that big job and you need to refill the coolant after repair.

It is there in my CE110 JDM! Is it that much rare?

Internal O rings (rubber) are shot! PM me I will let you know a good place to repair

Unless they are OEM made, most of the Chinese made halo looks cheep! -Just my idea

One of my friend's Mazda 3 had exactly the same issue! When he notice it the car in warranty period and they change it free of charge and had informed him that they will inform the mazda Japan. Unfortunately the newly replaced taillight had to face the similar fate and now warranty is over! I think only way you can remove it is by using heat gun and dismantle the unit and re gluing the unit only but do not try if you are not familiar. Anyway try removing the unit from the car and remove the "breathing line" and turning the unit up and down might also do the job. Car audio/modification place (ex: Bara-Dehiwala) where they do "smoking of lights" should be able to dismantle the unit by using heat gun!

I had the same issue in CE110, 1998 Auto, Whole radiator would cost me 18~20000 (Radiator House) Used one 22000, I found good shape one from "Japan Lanka"- Delkanda and got it checked from a radiator repair guy! It is still going strong! Anyway why don't you just ring Toyota Lanka (just to check their price ) Anyway I have used several jap used radiator, in general they are ok unless you are very unlucky (there is theoretical possibility of leaking but that is usually not happening)

Friend, do a search in AL site, you will find

As long as the oil is from a reputed company (caltex/mobil/castrol/Toyota..etc) ,meets the required grades according to the car manufactures and changed at correct interval; there should not be significant difference! I personally use Mobil for autobox (20000km) and caltex DS for engine (2500km) for my Diesel 2C

One parameter is sulfur content; In Sri Lanka Normal diesel 15000ppm or more Super Diesel 5000ppm Recommended diesel for modern CRDI engines 500ppm or less

Replying one year old thread, I have just fixed Mitsuba Alpha (Made in Japan), it sounds very classy. I got electronic horn controller unit (Mitsuba Arena MBW- 2E13R, made in Japan) and just tried fixing it with alpha horn to give fading effect; it really works but it is not that decent may be not fully compatible with Alpha horn unit!

It is available as brand new unit, else you can get it repaired by any popular auto electric shop (I got it done from "Sujith" Electrical , Matara)

Engine rebuilt completed and still just 80km. I notice very barely visible oil fumes from dip stick (Very hard to detect but I can feel engine oil smell can notice oil vapor on the under bonnet cover ) but definitely NOT exhaust gas. My mech said it is oil fumes since I use thinner oil (30) it will be disappeared soon. I did not "cut" the crank so what is the suitable oil thickness and oil brand? Shall I use oil like Toyota (10/30) or Mobil and change at every 5000km or DS 30 (or 40) cahnge it every 2500km with filter

"Odiance" at Pancigawattha. (Since my close relation is working there and I have sent few engines but still no complains, but they are not "posh" as Edirisingha )

I used old pistons as the machine shop head mechanic strongly suggested since they are in very good shape and no damages. According to him those original pistons are far better than after market pistons and he said if I really wanna go for new pistons go for genuine Toyota but still my old pistons are completely ok (no burns, no ring carrier damages, etc)

Completed the rebuilding. Need advices regarding first running of engine. Should it be driven without thermostat? What is the best method for first running?

Rukmani Model van name applied just because cinema (she drove the van in that film)

Regarding the piston, Toyota Lanka offered me original pistons for Rs 38000/=, Another place said to be importing original pistons from Singapore Toyota, offered me Rs 28000/= while alpine pistons for 10000/= What are the benefits of original pistons over alphine pistons?

1). According to my mechanic the old pistons are in good shape. Is it ok to reuse them or replace with alpine pistons? 2). Is it better to re bore and put oversize piston or re sleeve and original size pistons? My main worry against re boring is alteration of engine beat. Against re sleeving is the quality of the sleeves ("Izumi") they put.

"Transplanting" an used engine is out for me. I need advises regarding spare parts, machine works, etc

@MasterDon, Thanks for advices I just check the spares price from Toyota Lanka and another dealer who said to be imports the items from Singapore Toyota. Need advices regarding reliable spares dealer. And if to re bore or re sleeve.

I checked that option too. But I got to know that the used diesel engines imported from Japan usually clocked 100,000km (but they are not hacked probably quality diesel/engine oil) So had to think twice before putting 100k clocked engine

I have planed to rebuilt my toyota 2C engine. I am expecting advices regarding important aspects.

Need some kind of help for at least that broken wire! I found this from another forum but barely readable

If someone think agents are the best ppl who knows well around their vehicles, that is a big mistake. Just look in to our forum; ppl who maintain their vehicle very well are not usually going to agents except to get some rare parts. They usually have "their own" mechanics/painters etc. Back to the topic, In general Axio is better than I41